oceanaire

I hope someone will be able to help. I have a MAF Translator for the 2001 C5. I have done some mods as seen in my signature. Can you'all give me a little advice as to the proper settings with the mods listed below? Thanks in advance. I really love this board!!

chuckster

I assume you got the new wiring harness for the MAFT????? The harness is different in the 2001 and up
Using a MAFT without Autotap or other monitoring software is a crap shoot.

But in most cases with a cold air intake you can be safe with 5% rich on the Base. I think every GMS MAF for use with cold Air is set for 5%

Get an Autotap.

oceanaire

No new wiring harness that I know of. Will have to solder wires.
From the research I've done, the Autotap seems a bit complicated. I'm no technician. But if I have to get one, I have to get one. Any other suggestions?

Mean Green

if you're following the other thread at all about this subject, you see that there a couple of folks willing to lend a hand for either product.

I just got the MAFT and wont be doing a thing with it until I can get one of those 2 products....and some help, shouldn't be too much trouble seeing as I can use Word :D

6Speeder

Go to a shop with a chassis dyno. Use their wideband O2 sensor to adjust the MAF-T and get a rear wheel horsepower check at the same time. :yesnod: Most shpos will give you multiple runs to optimize your setup. :cheers:

oceanaire

That simple. OK, I'll get one of the scanners. I was hoping for an easier solution. OK, I'm just plain lazy!!

oceanaire

Cool, I'll try the dyno shop first. Thanks

Mean Green

hadn't thought about giving that a try, might have to give it a shot as well :)

if you get it done, oceanire, let us know how it turns out and I'll do the same!

6Speeder

This really worked pretty well for me. My car was tuned for the heads/cam at sea level, when I got back to Albuquerque (5,000+ ft. altitude) I dyno'd it and was down 15 hp, and running rich. Retuned the MAF-T and got the HP back! :chevy

TCC5

That's good advice. I saw Nitrovette dyno a couple of weeks ago and the dyno showed he was running too rich. After a couple of clicks on the MAFT, he gained 25.2 rwhp and 45.7 RWTQ. His final numbers were 384.2RWHP & 400.9RWTQ (SAE CORRECTED). Dyno showed I was running too lean but didn't have a MAFT at that time. Ordered one from Vettewrench (via GMoney...aka. MattG) last week but probably won't install until heads/cam are installed this winter :jester

SILVER~C5

TCC5, Why didnt you richen-up your car w/adj. fuel press. regulator. This method has worked well for me at the track, and I saw you also have one in your sig.

team-zr1

If I use one of the PCM functions to help make my point, is the Long Term Fuel Trim. That is acheived over time/distance.
IMHO: if you use a dyno, that may be a good test but after the MAFT change, once you've driven a bit there still would be a need to fine tune after the LTFT as re-adjusted. You cannot make a MAFT change and expect it to be a perfect adjustment until a few miles driven at that setting to see if further tuning is needed.

Aso diue to weather changes, type of driving, etc you still at times would want to make adjustments via the MAFT and thus like the Eaae scanner, it allows instant knowledge to you if fine tuning via MAFT is needed.

A dyno test would only be in most cases show how things look during WOT and not really overall what changes via MAFT would be for LTFT or knock under normal driving conditions.

A PCM scanner like the Ease version, has a friendly user interface, simple to see graphs and function meters and really is easy to use.
Think of it like a dwell meter or timing light, it reports and allows you to make good decisions for performance tuning.

TCC5

SILVER~C5: I actaully forgot I had the AFPR when I did my 2 dyno runs as I was one of the first to dyno that day. While Vettewrench was adjusting Nitrovette's MAFT did I remember I had the AFPR. The AFPR was actually one of the first mods that I had when I bought the car but after I bought the PLII 2+ years ago, Steve Cole advised to adjust the Fuel Pressure back to stock settings. Vettewrench (who organized the dyno day) was going to redyno my car after everyone else was done but we didn't have enough time at the end of the day. I bought the MAFT as I heard it does a better job than the AFPR. Must likely its does the same function but the MAFT was only $200 so I bought one anyways. At least I now have a baseline to compare it with once Spring comes along. :D

2001roadsterNBM

I remember when we first bought our '97 C5 (now my wife's car) the fuel regulator was one of the popular mods at that time. But after reading some articles (or was it this forum 3-4 years ago) the regulator was only good in the short term. If I remember correctly, after adjusting the regulator, the cars computer will read the changes and re-adjust back to stock setting after a few miles. Thus, everyone was only using the regulator at the track as it was only good for the short term.

Mopar Jimmy

[QUOTE]Go to a shop with a chassis dyno. Use their wideband O2 sensor to adjust the MAF-T and get a rear wheel horsepower check at the same time. :yesnod: Most shpos will give you multiple runs to optimize your setup. :cheers:

That's good advice. I saw Nitrovette dyno a couple of weeks ago and the dyno showed he was running too rich. After a couple of clicks on the MAFT, he gained 25.2 rwhp and 45.7 RWTQ. His final numbers were 384.2RWHP & 400.9RWTQ (SAE CORRECTED). Dyno showed I was running too lean but didn't have a MAFT at that time. Ordered one from Vettewrench (via GMoney...aka. MattG) last week but probably won't install until heads/cam are installed this winter


Tom,

Thanks for the free PR!

Nitrovette :smash:

oceanaire

Hey everybody, Thanks for all the good advice and suggestions. They are most appreciated.

TyVette01

Is the MAFT only needed after certain modification? I would think stock, the factory has tuned it perfect.

Mopar Jimmy

Only really need it when you start modding out your car. THe more you mod the more you need it. It is truly an awesome mod if your car is tricked out as reflected in my sign. Recenty MAF T allow me to pick up new found power of 25rwhp and 45rwtq by simply turning screw and leaning out my set up by 4%. I thought I was running great when but was 4% rich (didn't know it) and now with new found power (after leaning out on dyno with MAF T) I cant even hook up my power off the line and know need e/t streets to do so. Those new tires will be arriving soon :D

Nitrovette :smash:


[Modified by Nitrovette, 11:25 AM 11/4/2001]

team-zr1

Let's see ... OK, when you had a carb and points, you had to tune them right ?

Well same thing with a C5, if we keep this in the mindset of being tuned for the best performance.

I remind you the EPA allows a nameplate not to trigger a AFR error until its off by 25%.
Now add the fact the PCM is controlled by EPA and a PCM's purpose is to put the less load on the cats, emissions and then don't forget CAFE, so the PCM then is also attempting to sweak out the best MPG, it's job is NOT to get you the best performance and thus, yes a stock C5 could use a MAFT to tue for performance, and do so without getting emissions too dirty.

G.M is not tuning to one set of rules, a PCM has to adjust on the fly on its own and thus many factors cause how the PCM has adjusted.
Examples can be anything fromweather temps, type of gas, pulling up a hill, etc, you get the point and thus the PCM functions are a moving target.

A MAFT allows you to tune in the margin so that instead of the long term fuel trim being 8% lean, great of MPG, but crap on performance due to knock retarding timing.

Think of a MAFT in the way you did in the old days when changing the springs on the weights on distributer. A MAFT allows you to fune tune your AFR to the conditions you want.
An example tune via the MAFT so that during WOT there is no knock to rob you of HP and torque and force any knock that was in WOT down to non WOT driving conditions.

Think its time for a live internet chat on this subject, so I will set one up.

YO-EL

Is the MAFT usless with the Powerloader program? I have the vortex & tpis long tube headers. Car runs great with the PLII. Wondering if I need the MAFT, or is my tuning ability shot by the PL programming...
Ellis