Check your Torque Tube Bushings -Today! (PICS)
#201
Tech Contributor
Reviving an old thread.
I'm just curious as I have an 01 6spd and therefore the 12" bushing; is there any numbers for which one tends to fail more, the 10 or the 12? I assume the 10" but I can't tell based on all the precious posts. Also, any 12" bushing failures running pretty-much stock HP (I only have exhaust and intake mods). I also tend not to drive the car too hard. Fast, yes, hard, no.
Just curious,
-Mike
01
I'm just curious as I have an 01 6spd and therefore the 12" bushing; is there any numbers for which one tends to fail more, the 10 or the 12? I assume the 10" but I can't tell based on all the precious posts. Also, any 12" bushing failures running pretty-much stock HP (I only have exhaust and intake mods). I also tend not to drive the car too hard. Fast, yes, hard, no.
Just curious,
-Mike
01
#202
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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Reviving an old thread.
I'm just curious as I have an 01 6spd and therefore the 12" bushing; is there any numbers for which one tends to fail more, the 10 or the 12? I assume the 10" but I can't tell based on all the precious posts. Also, any 12" bushing failures running pretty-much stock HP (I only have exhaust and intake mods). I also tend not to drive the car too hard. Fast, yes, hard, no.
Just curious,
-Mike
01
I'm just curious as I have an 01 6spd and therefore the 12" bushing; is there any numbers for which one tends to fail more, the 10 or the 12? I assume the 10" but I can't tell based on all the precious posts. Also, any 12" bushing failures running pretty-much stock HP (I only have exhaust and intake mods). I also tend not to drive the car too hard. Fast, yes, hard, no.
Just curious,
-Mike
01
Peter
#203
I switched to the newer tube with m12 fasteners and the larger couplers are much more robust. Same general construction, just bigger. If you're at near stock HP, then it's just mileage I would be concerned with. I drove my car for almost a year with a broken bell-housing which was allowing the torque tube to sag and caused a lot of abnormal load/wear on my couples, and they still lasted to 114,000 miles. And even then, they didn't fail until I added the blower...did I mention I drive it like I stole it?
At near-stock horsepower and normal driving (non drag-racing), I wouldn't be concerned with them until at least 150,000 miles. That goes for the earlier couplers too.
At near-stock horsepower and normal driving (non drag-racing), I wouldn't be concerned with them until at least 150,000 miles. That goes for the earlier couplers too.
#205
Team Owner
When mine came out they were ***** of string and black powder. Biggest problem was I drove 13 hrs each way to a track event when it happen. I got 2 sessions in instead of 10
#206
DRM told me they change couples on their track cars every weekend! Cheap insurance evidently.
#208
#209
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Peter
#212
Can you prove that? A couple of people here have drilled and tapped the 10mm bolt holes out to 12mm and re-used parts of their driveshaft by installing 12mm couplers instead of 10mm. Seems to me if they are bigger and more robust they wouldn't have the same bolt pattern.
Peter
Peter
As far as proving it goes, sorry, you're on your own there. You'll just have to take my word on it. If I feel like it tomorrow, I'll post up some pix of the couplers side by side. I'm on my iPhone ATM.
And "real" BMW couplers are exactly the same as original GM couplers, at least on the C5s they are. I took some out of a '99 FRC that had the BMW logo molded right on them. Maybe the newer C6 parts have been improved upon but I'm not sure, I've only worked on one C6 torque tube and it was an 05 with German made couplers. (no GM or BMW logo) The problem I've found is the same problem with everything these days: there are Chinese copys being sold and they're crap. I've bought several sets of BMW couplers from bavauto.com with no problems. But the last set they sent me were garbage. After checking, they apologized saying their latest shipment was all the same junk! They sent me good parts as soon as they got them.
#213
You would think that molding the 3 letters "BMW" into one of those things would cost more than molding the 2 letters "G" and "M". But the "GM" cost about 3 times as much to mold for some reason! Go figure?
#214
Instructor
New
Have these been out for a while or are they new design? Just saw the ad in Vette Mag. Not much info on the site, but the ad says they're have an aluminum carrier wrapped around a special polyurethane for strength AND flexiblity.
http://prothane.com/whatsnew.php
http://prothane.com/whatsnew.php
#215
Race Director
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Location: South Western Ontario
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Have these been out for a while or are they new design? Just saw the ad in Vette Mag. Not much info on the site, but the ad says they're have an aluminum carrier wrapped around a special polyurethane for strength AND flexiblity.
http://prothane.com/whatsnew.php
http://prothane.com/whatsnew.php
I bought a set. I would give them a 10/10 for the idea and about a 7/10 for the execution. In my install it seems the carrier is a little too thick and the poly bushing a little too long. The bushings are being crushed at the ends. Also, I think the side that bolts up to the flange should really have a washer or something similar to give the end of the bushing a flat surface to be against.
Peter
#216
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Yeah, I'm one of those people that have tapped the holes bigger. The Z06 driveshaft that was given to me had been chewed up by the pilot bearing so I used my 2000 front shaft. And yes, they are exactly the same bolt circle radius. But the couplers are still bigger, and more importantly, they're thicker. The actual drive shaft out of the Z06 is shorter than my 2000 driveshaft because of the increased thickness of the couplers.
Peter
#217
Here are a couple of pix of the M10 and M12 couplers. The M12s actually look a little bigger in person. I had forgotten how much bigger the newer drive shaft was until I looked through my album, and as you can see the flanges are quite a bit beefier too. I don't have a picture of the Z06 front-shaft, but other than the larger screw holes, it measured identical to my 2000 front shaft.
Left-M12 (Z06), Right-M10 (2000)
Approximate difference in length (Note larger diameter of Z06 shaft)
Increasing to M12
Left-M12 (Z06), Right-M10 (2000)
Approximate difference in length (Note larger diameter of Z06 shaft)
Increasing to M12
#218
Instructor
I am in the process of installing a Yank ss3200, an RPM A4 and new bearings along with couplers. I got to the couplers today and they are chewed up and the front bearing is a
little loose. It is a 10mm diveshaft with a 105 on the clock. I am putting out 400 @ the
rear wheels with H/C and went with two rubber couplings per Mike at Eastcoast Super
Charging. Will press the new bearings tomorrow and will let you know the results.
little loose. It is a 10mm diveshaft with a 105 on the clock. I am putting out 400 @ the
rear wheels with H/C and went with two rubber couplings per Mike at Eastcoast Super
Charging. Will press the new bearings tomorrow and will let you know the results.
#219
Race Director
Thread Starter
CHeck the install length very carefully. People have trashed the thrust surface on the crank by letting the prop shaft grow longer when rebuilding. It's not a factor with the M6 and M12 tranny's but certainly is with the A4.
FWIW: I started this thread a few years ago when I trashed the bushings. Next month I'll be installing the RPM poly bushings.
FWIW: I started this thread a few years ago when I trashed the bushings. Next month I'll be installing the RPM poly bushings.
#220
Racer
Member Since: Sep 2009
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Yeah, well you are gonna wish all you have to do is drop the exhaust when you go to replace them. Try droping the entire rear subframe, trans, and diff...Might as well do a clutch while you are in there.