Battery Dead Today
07-02-2007, 09:24 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Battery Dead Today
Went to take my 02 coupe out today to run a couple of errands and the battery was drained 
I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.
The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad (all history) and deleted them all.
After trying to start the engine, the battery volts displayed on the DIC was about 9.8 and while the starter solenoid did click, the lights were very dim. When I first opened the driver's door and got in, I heard a buzzing sound that seemed to come from the passenger side of the interior. It went away as soon as I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the RUN position.
After putting my charger on the car for about 30 minutes, it started right up and the DIC and my DVM showed about 14.4v. After letting the car warm up, I shut it off and checked the codes and got these (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
A1-RDCM Right Door Control Module
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
No other codes.
I drove around for about 20 minutes and kept an eye on the voltage display on the DIC. Initially it showed 14.2-14.3v and gradually dropped to about 13.5v with an occasional low reading of 13.2-13.3v I felt that was too low so I returned home and checked volts at the battery with the engine running using my DVM. The DVM readout showed 13.8v at idle and was steady. Drove around again for 30 minutes and the volts display on the DIC showed a fairly steady 13.7v. This was just below the 13.9v I saw after the fully charged new battery went in.
At this time, it's been 3 1/2 hours since I parked the car and the battery shows 12.36v with my DVM.
Any ideas what I have going on here??
I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad (all history) and deleted them all.
After trying to start the engine, the battery volts displayed on the DIC was about 9.8 and while the starter solenoid did click, the lights were very dim. When I first opened the driver's door and got in, I heard a buzzing sound that seemed to come from the passenger side of the interior. It went away as soon as I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the RUN position.
After putting my charger on the car for about 30 minutes, it started right up and the DIC and my DVM showed about 14.4v. After letting the car warm up, I shut it off and checked the codes and got these (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
A1-RDCM Right Door Control Module
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
No other codes.
I drove around for about 20 minutes and kept an eye on the voltage display on the DIC. Initially it showed 14.2-14.3v and gradually dropped to about 13.5v with an occasional low reading of 13.2-13.3v I felt that was too low so I returned home and checked volts at the battery with the engine running using my DVM. The DVM readout showed 13.8v at idle and was steady. Drove around again for 30 minutes and the volts display on the DIC showed a fairly steady 13.7v. This was just below the 13.9v I saw after the fully charged new battery went in.
At this time, it's been 3 1/2 hours since I parked the car and the battery shows 12.36v with my DVM.
Any ideas what I have going on here??
Last edited by c4cruiser; 07-02-2007 at 09:43 PM.
07-02-2007, 09:37 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Westchester County New York
Posts: 2,934
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Went to take my 02 coupe out today for a couple of errands and the battery was drained I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.
The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad and deleted them all.
After putting my charger on the car for an hour, it started right up and my DVM showed about 14.4v. I checked the codes again and got these codes (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear DEfogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad and deleted them all.
After putting my charger on the car for an hour, it started right up and my DVM showed about 14.4v. I checked the codes again and got these codes (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear DEfogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
07-04-2007, 03:00 PM
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Update
Spent about 40 minutes detailing the car this morning so I started it and drove out of the garage. Cranked right over, volts showed 14.1 on the DIC. Shut the engine off and cleaned some things and within 5 minutes, put the car back in the garage.
After cleaning in the garage which took about 40 minutes, I opened the driver's door to remove the top and popped the hatch to set the top in, then closed the hatch and the door. The hood was up all of this time but the lamp went out as is should. So I went to start it again and got nothing more than clicking.
The DIC indicated "Low Voltage" and the dash lights were somewhat dim. Earlier in the morning, I checked battery voltage with my DVM and I got 12.34v. So I decided to check for a current draw and the DVM showed 1.34mA draw
I re-connected the negative cable to the battery and checked volts again. The meter showed a 10.5v initially. I left the leads connected and voltage started to climb and within a minute it was up to 11.7v but when I tried to start the engine again, just clicking. Didn't get a Low Voltage message this time.
There were no noises inside the car when I re-connected the battery.
Any ideas????????
After cleaning in the garage which took about 40 minutes, I opened the driver's door to remove the top and popped the hatch to set the top in, then closed the hatch and the door. The hood was up all of this time but the lamp went out as is should. So I went to start it again and got nothing more than clicking.
The DIC indicated "Low Voltage" and the dash lights were somewhat dim. Earlier in the morning, I checked battery voltage with my DVM and I got 12.34v. So I decided to check for a current draw and the DVM showed 1.34mA draw
I re-connected the negative cable to the battery and checked volts again. The meter showed a 10.5v initially. I left the leads connected and voltage started to climb and within a minute it was up to 11.7v but when I tried to start the engine again, just clicking. Didn't get a Low Voltage message this time.
There were no noises inside the car when I re-connected the battery.
Any ideas????????
07-04-2007, 03:08 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Excorcism
Consult a Catholic priest and have him sprinkle Holy Water on the 'Vette? The only other serious thing I can think of is that you might have been life's lottery winner and got a bad battery? After that you might have a HUGE parasitic battery drain? Good Luck and let us all know, Via Con Dios!
07-04-2007, 03:09 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Excorcism
Consult a Catholic priest and have him sprinkle Holy Water on the 'Vette? The only other serious thing I can think of is that you might have been life's lottery winner and got a bad battery? After that you might have a HUGE parasitic battery drain? Good Luck and let us all know, Via Con Dios!
Sorry about the double post....having problems with my high speed connection....
Sorry about the double post....having problems with my high speed connection....
Last edited by Ryan's Daddy Dan-Na; 07-04-2007 at 03:10 PM. Reason: posting author is an idiot!
07-04-2007, 06:23 PM
#7
There are so many electrinics on the car that need battery power to maintain memory that two or three weeks it can drain the battery. I keep both of my vettes plug into Battery Tenders that keep the battery charge at 100% all of the time. That also increases the life of the battery.
07-04-2007, 06:23 PM
#8
Former Vendor
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Tampa FL
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Check the connections your battery, then check the connection on the back of the alternator, then check your positive connection on the starter. The third is what my issue was and I had the same symtoms you describe. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1747821
Cajun
Cajun
07-05-2007, 12:54 PM
#9
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Member Since: May 2006
Location: Out in the Woods VIRGINIA
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same problem
Went to take my 02 coupe out today to run a couple of errands and the battery was drained I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.
The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad (all history) and deleted them all.
After trying to start the engine, the battery volts displayed on the DIC was about 9.8 and while the starter solenoid did click, the lights were very dim. When I first opened the driver's door and got in, I heard a buzzing sound that seemed to come from the passenger side of the interior. It went away as soon as I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the RUN position.
After putting my charger on the car for about 30 minutes, it started right up and the DIC and my DVM showed about 14.4v. After letting the car warm up, I shut it off and checked the codes and got these (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
A1-RDCM Right Door Control Module
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
No other codes.
I drove around for about 20 minutes and kept an eye on the voltage display on the DIC. Initially it showed 14.2-14.3v and gradually dropped to about 13.5v with an occasional low reading of 13.2-13.3v I felt that was too low so I returned home and checked volts at the battery with the engine running using my DVM. The DVM readout showed 13.8v at idle and was steady. Drove around again for 30 minutes and the volts display on the DIC showed a fairly steady 13.7v. This was just below the 13.9v I saw after the fully charged new battery went in.
At this time, it's been 3 1/2 hours since I parked the car and the battery shows 12.36v with my DVM.
Any ideas what I have going on here??
I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad (all history) and deleted them all.
After trying to start the engine, the battery volts displayed on the DIC was about 9.8 and while the starter solenoid did click, the lights were very dim. When I first opened the driver's door and got in, I heard a buzzing sound that seemed to come from the passenger side of the interior. It went away as soon as I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the RUN position.
After putting my charger on the car for about 30 minutes, it started right up and the DIC and my DVM showed about 14.4v. After letting the car warm up, I shut it off and checked the codes and got these (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
A1-RDCM Right Door Control Module
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
No other codes.
I drove around for about 20 minutes and kept an eye on the voltage display on the DIC. Initially it showed 14.2-14.3v and gradually dropped to about 13.5v with an occasional low reading of 13.2-13.3v I felt that was too low so I returned home and checked volts at the battery with the engine running using my DVM. The DVM readout showed 13.8v at idle and was steady. Drove around again for 30 minutes and the volts display on the DIC showed a fairly steady 13.7v. This was just below the 13.9v I saw after the fully charged new battery went in.
At this time, it's been 3 1/2 hours since I parked the car and the battery shows 12.36v with my DVM.
Any ideas what I have going on here??
07-05-2007, 02:35 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
New Is Not Equal To Good
Get the battery tested free at where you bought it or Autozone or Advance. NEW does not mean GOOD. If its OK then look for a large drain. Can find this by connecting an ammeter in series with the battery and cables and then start pulling fuses. A small amount of current is normal, I believe no more than 100 milliamps or 1/10 amp.
Make sure that the leads at the battery aren't corroded or ozidized.
BIGHANK
Make sure that the leads at the battery aren't corroded or ozidized.
BIGHANK
07-05-2007, 04:37 PM
#11
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battery drain
Went to take my 02 coupe out today to run a couple of errands and the battery was drained I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.
The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad (all history) and deleted them all.
After trying to start the engine, the battery volts displayed on the DIC was about 9.8 and while the starter solenoid did click, the lights were very dim. When I first opened the driver's door and got in, I heard a buzzing sound that seemed to come from the passenger side of the interior. It went away as soon as I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the RUN position.
After putting my charger on the car for about 30 minutes, it started right up and the DIC and my DVM showed about 14.4v. After letting the car warm up, I shut it off and checked the codes and got these (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
A1-RDCM Right Door Control Module
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
No other codes.
I drove around for about 20 minutes and kept an eye on the voltage display on the DIC. Initially it showed 14.2-14.3v and gradually dropped to about 13.5v with an occasional low reading of 13.2-13.3v I felt that was too low so I returned home and checked volts at the battery with the engine running using my DVM. The DVM readout showed 13.8v at idle and was steady. Drove around again for 30 minutes and the volts display on the DIC showed a fairly steady 13.7v. This was just below the 13.9v I saw after the fully charged new battery went in.
At this time, it's been 3 1/2 hours since I parked the car and the battery shows 12.36v with my DVM.
Any ideas what I have going on here??
I had installed a brand new AC Delco Professional 75-7YR battery back on the 16th of May.The last time I drove the car was June 10th, a trip of about 75 miles and everything worked just fine. Last week, I pulled the car out of the garage to wash it and then back in.
When I installed the new battery, I checked all of the codes, found nothing really bad (all history) and deleted them all.
After trying to start the engine, the battery volts displayed on the DIC was about 9.8 and while the starter solenoid did click, the lights were very dim. When I first opened the driver's door and got in, I heard a buzzing sound that seemed to come from the passenger side of the interior. It went away as soon as I put the key in the ignition and turned it to the RUN position.
After putting my charger on the car for about 30 minutes, it started right up and the DIC and my DVM showed about 14.4v. After letting the car warm up, I shut it off and checked the codes and got these (all showed as history, nothing current):
40-BCM
B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
B0503 RH DRL Relay Circuit
B0508 LH DRL Relay Circuit
A0-LDCM Left Door Control Module
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
A1-RDCM Right Door Control Module
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
No other codes.
I drove around for about 20 minutes and kept an eye on the voltage display on the DIC. Initially it showed 14.2-14.3v and gradually dropped to about 13.5v with an occasional low reading of 13.2-13.3v I felt that was too low so I returned home and checked volts at the battery with the engine running using my DVM. The DVM readout showed 13.8v at idle and was steady. Drove around again for 30 minutes and the volts display on the DIC showed a fairly steady 13.7v. This was just below the 13.9v I saw after the fully charged new battery went in.
At this time, it's been 3 1/2 hours since I parked the car and the battery shows 12.36v with my DVM.
Any ideas what I have going on here??
07-06-2007, 08:13 AM
#12
Advanced
Member Since: May 2005
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i had the same problem today. I dirve my vette every day. the battery is only about a 1/2 year old. This is the second battery that I have put in 3 years. It is an optima and there is no signs that it should go dead that fast. I am thinking it is a grounding problem. if you figure it out let me know.
07-06-2007, 09:58 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: (Temporarily) Colorado Springs Colorado
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The Optima Red Top totally sucks ... do not ever buy one ... and I am saying NEVER! They claim a 3 year 100% replacement ... but try getting it replaced when you have moved and can't return it to the original place you bought it from. Even their web page says, "Take it back to where you bought it" ... if not call and we will tell you where to go.
I bought mine in Colorado Springs, Colorado from Advance Auto ... I am currently in New Mexico where there isn't an Advance Auto. I called their toll-free number and was told to take it to "so-and-so" in this town. I called them and I need to take the battery to them, they will send it to Interstate, they will charge it and tell me what they will do. I've already done that once, and the battery died in about one week sitting in the garage. DO NOT WASTE YOUR $$$$$ ON THIS BATTERY AND THEIR GUARANTEE go to Sears and buy their Platinum battery for $179.00 and have a 4 year 100% replacement and you can go anywhere to have it replaced.
I am so mad at this Optima Red Top I will make it my life mission to post this on every battery posting on this forum and every other Corvette Forum on the web.
I bought mine in Colorado Springs, Colorado from Advance Auto ... I am currently in New Mexico where there isn't an Advance Auto. I called their toll-free number and was told to take it to "so-and-so" in this town. I called them and I need to take the battery to them, they will send it to Interstate, they will charge it and tell me what they will do. I've already done that once, and the battery died in about one week sitting in the garage. DO NOT WASTE YOUR $$$$$ ON THIS BATTERY AND THEIR GUARANTEE go to Sears and buy their Platinum battery for $179.00 and have a 4 year 100% replacement and you can go anywhere to have it replaced.
I am so mad at this Optima Red Top I will make it my life mission to post this on every battery posting on this forum and every other Corvette Forum on the web.
07-07-2007, 12:35 AM
#14
Safety Car
The Optima Red Top totally sucks ... do not ever buy one ... and I am saying NEVER! They claim a 3 year 100% replacement ... but try getting it replaced when you have moved and can't return it to the original place you bought it from. Even their web page says, "Take it back to where you bought it" ... if not call and we will tell you where to go.
I bought mine in Colorado Springs, Colorado from Advance Auto ... I am currently in New Mexico where there isn't an Advance Auto. I called their toll-free number and was told to take it to "so-and-so" in this town. I called them and I need to take the battery to them, they will send it to Interstate, they will charge it and tell me what they will do. I've already done that once, and the battery died in about one week sitting in the garage. DO NOT WASTE YOUR $$$$$ ON THIS BATTERY AND THEIR GUARANTEE go to Sears and buy their Platinum battery for $179.00 and have a 4 year 100% replacement and you can go anywhere to have it replaced.
I am so mad at this Optima Red Top I will make it my life mission to post this on every battery posting on this forum and every other Corvette Forum on the web.
I bought mine in Colorado Springs, Colorado from Advance Auto ... I am currently in New Mexico where there isn't an Advance Auto. I called their toll-free number and was told to take it to "so-and-so" in this town. I called them and I need to take the battery to them, they will send it to Interstate, they will charge it and tell me what they will do. I've already done that once, and the battery died in about one week sitting in the garage. DO NOT WASTE YOUR $$$$$ ON THIS BATTERY AND THEIR GUARANTEE go to Sears and buy their Platinum battery for $179.00 and have a 4 year 100% replacement and you can go anywhere to have it replaced.
I am so mad at this Optima Red Top I will make it my life mission to post this on every battery posting on this forum and every other Corvette Forum on the web.
07-07-2007, 11:15 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: (Temporarily) Colorado Springs Colorado
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Wrong ... my problem is with Optima ... and their guarantee, that is what I am grumbling about. Hey, a battery can go bad ... no big deal! But when the manufacturer does not allow other Optima dealers to exchange a defective battery with a new one, without doing a bunch of "song and dance routines" ... then I can't fault the original seller but I can AND WILL fault the guarantee given by the manufacture.
I know I am beating a
!
I know I am beating a
!
07-08-2007, 01:39 PM
#16
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Update
Yesterday, I charged the battery and started to check grounds and pull fuses. After the interior lights went out, I hooked up my DVM and it showed a 1.38mA draw. I pulled all of the fuses and breakers that related to the doors and seats. The fuses (interior fuse block) I pulled were 2,3,4,10,11,18,30,31,33, and 34. Breakers 35,36, Micro relay 37,38, and 40.
None of these changed the amount of the observed draw. Checked as many of the grounds as I could get to and everything was clean and shiny. I can't get to G102 as the coolant lines for the intercooler are directly over it. But everything in that area is clean and dry (no indication of a coolant leak anywhere on the intercooler water lines).
G104 has an extra lead attached to it. My car has a Vortech supercharger and a water-cooled intercooler. There is a relay that powers the electric water pump for this system and the groud wire is attached there. Everything is clean. The negative battery cable at the block is clean and tight as is the positive cable. The grounds on the block (#11 and 12 in the FSM pics) are clean and tight. Battery terminal connections are clean and tight.
The wires at G401 (driver's side rear wheelwell) are clean and tight. My car does not have any wires at G402 (passenger side rear wheelwell).
The new battery I have is good; I even swapped batteries from my 87 (same AC Delco 75-7YR Professional Grade) and still get the same current draw.
Bill Curlee...HELLLP
None of these changed the amount of the observed draw. Checked as many of the grounds as I could get to and everything was clean and shiny. I can't get to G102 as the coolant lines for the intercooler are directly over it. But everything in that area is clean and dry (no indication of a coolant leak anywhere on the intercooler water lines).
G104 has an extra lead attached to it. My car has a Vortech supercharger and a water-cooled intercooler. There is a relay that powers the electric water pump for this system and the groud wire is attached there. Everything is clean. The negative battery cable at the block is clean and tight as is the positive cable. The grounds on the block (#11 and 12 in the FSM pics) are clean and tight. Battery terminal connections are clean and tight.
The wires at G401 (driver's side rear wheelwell) are clean and tight. My car does not have any wires at G402 (passenger side rear wheelwell).
The new battery I have is good; I even swapped batteries from my 87 (same AC Delco 75-7YR Professional Grade) and still get the same current draw.
Bill Curlee...HELLLP
