whitelite

I replaced my passenger side door lock relays about 2 mos ago and all was wonderful. Now my passenger lock aand windows are inoperative. Seems like I lost power to the door. Is there a fuse or main plug?

Thanks in advance,
Randy

Bill Curlee

Randy

Before you get too deep in cash flow, try this. Grab the rubber accordion tube between the door frame and the door and while your pressing the window switch, shake the wiring harnesses inside that rubber tube. See if that will cause the door to start working again. Let me know how you make out.

BC

whitelite

Ok Bill, that worked. Now what does it tell us

Showdown

Bill Curlee

It will cost you $165. to get the rest of the story!

Here is the deal. There are two plugs inside the door jam. You need to remove the rubber boot on both ends (it easily pops out) and pull on the wiring harnesses to fish the connectors out of the body. It will look some thing like this:



Look at the connectors and see if you see any bare wires like this:



If so pull the insulation back down and use some electrical tape to isolate the bare wire. You can also use some liquid electrical tape to insulate it. Ant boat store or hard ware store should have it.

let me know how you make out,

Oh,,by the way,,, the drivers side is most likely just like that one. I would do that one too!

BC

whitelite

Thanks Bill,
I won't be able to get to it for a couple of days but I'm on the hunt.......
Randy

whitelite

Hey Bill,
I hope to get to look at this tomorrow. Why does your pic look like that wire is a ground with a piece of clear vacume line on it for insulation.
Also just for grins, what is it able to touch that is shorting it out.

Sorry for the questions but it's just the way I am and you seem to know your stuff!!!!!

Thanks again

Bill Curlee

Well, I really never dug into it that deep but I do know that the insulation needs to cover the wire and it comes that way from the factory. What ever it grounds to (have not figured it out) resolves if you shake the harness. I tapped that wire up on 6 cars and everyone who I did it for has never had another door issue. Now your going to make me look it up cause you pegged ny interest>

Well,,,I lookes and theres nothing that list a CLEAR wire or a bare wire.

Il keep researching!

BC

Z06ufgrad2002

Looking at the second pic above, there is something wrong with those wires. Especially the one with the clear cover. One, the cover on the wire is not tight to the wire. Second. the two wires next to it and the one with the clear cover appear to be outisde of the black plastic connector.The wires should all be down inside the black plastic connector and look like the orange and black wires to their left.

whitelite

Hey Bill,

I also found out that this short can make the computer go nuts and the DIC display a bunch of faulty messages.
I didn't get to it the other day but I will TONIGHT after work.

PROCRASTINATION IS BAD IN THIS CASE.....VERY BAD

always717

Had the same problem tonight, window and door lock passenger side inoperable. Will try your suggestion. Thanks for the info

Steve

always717

Tried it, no go, the bare wire is not insulated, but wrapped with a peice of clear tubing, not the problem, fuses ok, i guess its the relay module. will check that next

Bill Curlee

Dont forget to check both sides!! One side could effect the other.

BC

saw22

I was just about to lose my mind because this same thing happened to me. No locks, no windows, no power seats, no mirrors.. the whole thing was dead. Checked all the fuses, checked the plug going to the unit, everything looked good.

I stumbled across this thread.. said "no way".. went outside and wiggled the accordian tube, and everything came back to life.

Bill Curlee

SAW22

WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yep, normally, its as simple as that!

Please make sure that you get the ROOT of the problem fixed. Remove the tube and cover up those wires that are bare!

BC

brookman

I had this problem and I think it was a combination of a couple of things. Here is how I solved it. I went to home depot and got 6 feet of 1/2 in. split cable loom. i slipped it over the wire bundle in both directions and kept feeding it in the door and the door jamb until it stopped. I don't remember having very much left when i was done. I taped it very well at the connector ends and have not had one issue since.

I am almost positive that the wire that is shorting out is one of the comm lines because twice while driving my dash lit up like a christmas tree. I got reduced power warning and all the gauges dropped to 0.

The first symptom was my drivers window would not go down.

Allzwell

My what timing ... I have the same issue and just sent a PM to Bill.

I'm headed out to the garage to check this out ... I'll be back

EDIT ..... Well, IT WORKED

I owe Bill Curlee a drink

VinceC5

Looks like I have this problem also....

Bill!!!!

Hopefully won't have it too much longer.

Richard Nogen

BC is the man he helped me with this problem back in June. I would give anything to have a local Bill Curlee.

vettekiddave

I just got my first Corvette [2003 Z06-27000 miles] in June after many Camaros and of course am totally freaking out over the performance. But the problems are starting to freak me a bit also. First the drivers door buttons all crapped out at the same time and then got the ding ding ding-service abs,tc,reduced engine power, fuel gauge went to empty, temp gauge maxed out, etc- all at once. Got home -restarted and all was well until next time, same stuff. Did the forum searches -found out Bill Curlees "da man" and now am trying out his advice. Did the accordian rubber thing like the pics above and saw the same bare wires. I disconnected it and the speaker wouldn't work but the window and lock worked. Reconnected, taped up bare wire, went for a hard ride-no problems. I'm not convinced it's fixed---hope like heck it is---but why would a speaker connector cause all those problems?