why does the service manual tell me to discard brake bolts?
BIGHANK
Red.
09-28-2007, 06:29 PM
#26
Team Owner
09-28-2007, 07:31 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
Loc-Tite Red; drys very hard (brittle), very strong, NOT good in areas of vibration. Not impossible to remove with a little extra force.
Loc-Tite Blue; more pliable (kinda gummy), works best in areas of vibration.
If I were to use Loc-Tite, witch I don't, it would be the Blue stuff. I change rotors and pads before and after each DE day, 3 to 4 times a year (6 to 8 takeoffs). I have yet to buy new bolts, nor have I ever had a problem with bolts backing off, FWIW
Loc-Tite Blue; more pliable (kinda gummy), works best in areas of vibration.
If I were to use Loc-Tite, witch I don't, it would be the Blue stuff. I change rotors and pads before and after each DE day, 3 to 4 times a year (6 to 8 takeoffs). I have yet to buy new bolts, nor have I ever had a problem with bolts backing off, FWIW
09-28-2007, 07:44 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
09-28-2007, 09:03 PM
#31
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09-29-2007, 12:44 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
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I bought a set of taps and dies from Harbor Freight (cheap and OK for this purpose). I run a die down the threads to clean them and apply Loctite Blue ...torque to spec.
I've probably done this 20 plus times with no problems and I don't expect any.
I've probably done this 20 plus times with no problems and I don't expect any.
09-29-2007, 10:52 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
10-03-2007, 09:28 AM
#34
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I probably missed it in this thread...as i am just getting ready to install my new Baer rotors...
I assume there are 2 bolts holding each caliper (what is the torque spec?) and is there any spec on the bolts/pins for the pads... Not changing pads- just rotors..(but do i need to remove the pads to replace rotors?) Sorry, i don't have the wheels off yet to look so if the pad question is dumb or obvious, please forgive me.
I assume there are 2 bolts holding each caliper (what is the torque spec?) and is there any spec on the bolts/pins for the pads... Not changing pads- just rotors..(but do i need to remove the pads to replace rotors?) Sorry, i don't have the wheels off yet to look so if the pad question is dumb or obvious, please forgive me.
10-03-2007, 10:54 AM
#35
Yep, the 2 bolts in question are the caliper mounting bolts. Torque spec is 125 lb-ft. You'll need to remove the pads to replace the rotors. You *might* be able to remove the rotor/pads in a single assembly, but taking out and putting the pads back in is so easy, why bother trying?
10-05-2007, 05:55 PM
#37
Safety Car
The caliper bracket (which the caliper mounts to) is mounted to the hub by two bolts. They are torqued to 125 ft/lbs, and the GM bolts come with RED Loctite already applied to them. These bolts MUST be removed to change the rotor as the brackets surround the rotor. If all you are replacing is pads, LEAVE THESE BOLTS ALONE. There is no need to remove the caliper bracket to change pads.
The caliper is mounted to the mounting bracket by two "pins" or bolts. The "pin" design allows the caliper to self adjust as the pads wear. The pins are held in by bolts that are torqued to 26 ft/lbs. The GM bolts come with RED Loctite already applied to them. You will need an open-end wrench to slip over the pins to keep them from turning as you turn the bolts. There are two "flat surfaces" machined into the pins for the wrench, you may have to move the dust cover slightly aside to see/get to them.
If you are replacing ONLY the pads .....
Remove wheel
Remove UPPER Caliper guide pin bolt.
Remove upper guide pin
Swing caliper down and let lower guide pin support the caliper
Pull pads out and replace (you'll see it is a pretty simple job)
Use C-clamp to push caliper piston back into caliper body
Swing caliper back into position over pads
Replace guide pin and torque bolt into place
Replace wheel
Once you've done this a few times, most find it takes longer to jack car and remove wheels than to do the pads.
10-08-2007, 09:02 AM
#38
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BlackZ06..Thanks for the advice and help...toughest part was re-torqueing the caliper bolts from that angle (with a long torque wrench)..
Painting the calipers while installing the rotors...now wishing I would have bought new ceramic pads (less dust) while installing the Baer Rotors.
Painting the calipers while installing the rotors...now wishing I would have bought new ceramic pads (less dust) while installing the Baer Rotors.
10-08-2007, 10:02 AM
#39
Safety Car
Good info on this thread. Changing my pads for the first time tonite. I have Hawk street pads, but they dust really bad, so I have some ceramics to put on for street, but I have some Carbotechs for the track day on 10/20, so I need to practice repl before getting to track.
10-08-2007, 01:37 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
Hi guys
Can i just add,if your old pads are worn and the piston is out some,just be aware that pushing the piston right back in returns the fluid back to the m/cylinder.if your doing front and rear pads you may want to checkout the level of the fluid it can rise fast.nothing nice about an overflowing brake m/c.
nitro uk
Can i just add,if your old pads are worn and the piston is out some,just be aware that pushing the piston right back in returns the fluid back to the m/cylinder.if your doing front and rear pads you may want to checkout the level of the fluid it can rise fast.nothing nice about an overflowing brake m/c.
nitro uk