thank you!
should i replace anything else while i'm in there?
Nope. There is nothing else associated with it.
Wait....I take that back. If you DON'T already have a Column Lock Bypass installed, now would be an ideal time to do it (during the reinstallation half of the job, of course!).
Important
If reusing the existing sensor, you must make an alignment mark on the rotor flange cuff (3) before removing the sensor. Failure to do so will cause misalignment when installing the sensor. A new sensor will be required if misaligned.
If installing a new sensor, it will come with a pin installed in the sensor. Do not remove the pin until the sensor is seated. If the new sensor did not come with a pin installed, you must reorder a new sensor.
Does this mean utilizing a used sensor already removed from the column will not work.
Can a used sensor be recentered?
Due to price of the pre 01 sensor over $280 list,considering a used sensor.
Location: Near the first landing on the contenent VA
I am going to have to replace my SWPS too; thanks for all the great information and pictures you all have provided. I am I understanding everyone correctly that if I disconnect the battery and pull the fuse to the air bag I don't have to worry about the air bag deploying during the removal and installation procedures?
Location: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
****UPATE*** FOR THOSE WITH TELESCOPIC STEERING WHEEL****
Having the telescopic steering wheel makes this job a MAJOR PITA!!! The motor for the telescopic steering wheel is bolted along with the back two steering wheel column bolts. These two bolts hold the motor to the steering wheel ALONG with a small hex head bolt. The problem with this is the motor is fairly big and it WON'T EASILY allow you to pull the steering column out due to a clearance issue with the bracket that holds on the adjuster for the telescopic wheel. That bracket hits the black frame bar and causes a clearence issue with the front two steering column bolts! What I had to do was unbolt the hex head bolt and pull the telescopic motor towards the front and let it hang. Then when getting the steering wheel out, you have to turn it at an angle and watch carefully and help guide out the motor. Two people would make that part ALOT easier but not necessary.
Installing it is an even bigger PITA!! I removed the assembly with the telescopic motor/rear steering wheel bracket facing towards the drivers side. GUIDE IT BACK IN THE SAME WAY!!! Make sure when you guide the telescopic motor back into the car that its facing the drivers side foot well....if not, you'll never get it on from what I saw. Keep an eye on the motor as your guiding the steering wheel back into position and line it up with the two rear bolts.
When I put the steering wheel back in, and got the steering wheel rear bracket onto the two rear bolt holes, I slid the motor back on as well. I'm STILL working with this because I can't line up the steering wheel with the outer shaft (gonna wait for some help on that as I don't see how you guys did it by yourselves ) I'm going to try to get the hex bolt back in there but if I can't I'm not going to worry about it because the two rear bolts will hold it firmly in place. I'll post pics a little later to show this better.
Just did this... lots o fun I'll tell ya. I took the advice and pulled the front tire and access panel which made it a sinch! Definitely recommend it. Only took 1.5 hours or so.
Awesome thread and great info. I just did this in my 04 Z06 (mine for another week anyways) and the damn 1288 code is gone! Thanks for all the advice! I did manage to do it without pulling the column from the car. 2 hours with a 20 minute delay of a lost dog paying me a visit in the garage, I took her home and got back to work.
Location: Near the first landing on the contenent VA
Cobra4b and I replaced mine last Sunday, took 7 hours Would have been fairly easy but the telescoping steering wheel mechanism added greatly to the PIA factor.
This is really the fix for the C1288 and C1287. I got those codes, did some research here and in my service manual and figured I needed a SWPS. I didnt feel like doing it myself since i've been pretty busy at work and took it in to the dealership (who I trust and generally does a good job). The diagnosed this problem as needing a new EBCM.
On that diagnosis I ordered and installed a new EBCM (dealer quoted me $2k - got one from one of our sponsors for +/- $800 and installed it quickly). and the codes came back!!
Anyhow, I stopped a a dealership on the way home and picked up a SWPS for $71 including tax, and using this post and the serivce manuals I did the job in about 2hrs taking my time.
All the codes have cleared and nothing has reset!! \
a few things I did differently than this post (2002 z06 non-telescoping wheel):
1. I was able to get my hand under the AIR tube to loosen and remove the nut and pin from the steering shaft after I had loosed in with the hweel turned @ 90*. (i'e' i tuned the wheel to access the nut with 2 12" extensions and a swivel but did not remove the nut, then turned the steering wheel to put the wheels staight again and simply removed the bolt with my fingertips (same with the pin). without dropping them.. Also, using 2 people I was able to get the steering shaft back in without knocking the boot out.. went slowly and carefully..
however, i dropped a socket down in the fender by mistake and ended up taking the wheel off and the fender access panel off anyways.. oh well.. anyhow it can be done without doing that.. just dont drop anything down there!!
Pix of the dissected SWPS will be in teh thread linked above!
I did this today on my 01 with telescoping wheel. What a PITA! It took me about 4 hours. I removed the column from the car. It seemed like every bit of this job challenged me. For those with telescoping wheels, I would suggest having the dealer do it. If they would do it for $200 in labor, that would be a good deal IMHO.
I checked the voltage on pins 5 and 6 and it showed 2.4V and 4.9V respectively. Does that mean my sensor is bad?
I read a post from BC who said the two voltage should be the same.
But then I also read a couple other posts that said if the blue wire (pin 6) is 4.9, then remove the steering bolt and turn the wheel 360 degrees to the left.
I've never had any work done except a wheel alignment a few months ago.
I checked the voltage on pins 5 and 6 and it showed 2.4V and 4.9V respectively. Does that mean my sensor is bad?
Well this weekend I decided to change the sensor. It worked!! No more annoying Service TC warnings.
I got access to the steering bolt from the driver side after removing the wheel and fender piece (9-7mm bolts). That gave extremely easy access to the steering bolt. You just need to rotate the steering wheel slightly to see the nut end.
In the interior, the knee pad covering can easily be remove if you first loosen the center console (3 screw on the dash and 4 nuts on the armrest. You don't have to remove the entire armrest, just loosen it slightly so that you can pull the console piece back about one inch. That allowed easy removal of the knee bolstering piece.
I also took out the entire steering after taping the steering wheel in a straight position (afraid I might move it). Worked beautifully. The sensor was really tight and there is no way I can get that sensor out without removing the steering column.
As for reassembly, I was able to put the column back without knocking the gommet off. Aligning it to the nut took no more than 5 min.
Overall, pretty easy procedure if you go through this entire thread. My local dealers were quoting anywhere from 275-600 for labor alone. The fact that I was able to fix this by myself . . .Priceless!!!
(during the reinstallation half of the job, of course!).
That bracket hits the black frame bar and causes a clearence issue with the front two steering column bolts! What I had to do was unbolt the hex head bolt and pull the telescopic motor towards the front and let it hang. Then when getting the steering wheel out, you have to turn it at an angle and watch carefully and help guide out the motor. Two people would make that part ALOT easier but not necessary. 
) I'm going to try to get the hex bolt back in there but if I can't I'm not going to worry about it because the two rear bolts will hold it firmly in place. I'll post pics a little later to show this better. 
Would have been fairly easy but the telescoping steering wheel mechanism added greatly to the PIA factor.
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