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How to replace the (p1416) air check valve??

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Old 02-25-2007, 06:09 PM
  #21  
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Wow, thanks for the info Bill! I get P1415 once every month or two. I've been meaning to replace it, but now I'll try cleaning it out.

Old 03-02-2007, 03:46 PM
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maryland
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Thanks Bill. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
Old 03-25-2007, 09:55 AM
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Holy Smokes! Thanks for taking the time to put this together Bill - I'm getting the code (and I believe it's indicating the dreaded passenger side!)

I was tempted to just edit out the code with HPT as I don't think this effects normal operation (?)

Somebody remind me when I do a H/C upgrade to pull all this funly AIR stuff +out+ (might actually be able to swap plugs without maiming myself )

Thanks again!
Old 03-25-2007, 01:25 PM
  #24  
Bill Curlee
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Originally Posted by DT
Holy Smokes! Thanks for taking the time to put this together Bill - I'm getting the code (and I believe it's indicating the dreaded passenger side!)

I was tempted to just edit out the code with HPT as I don't think this effects normal operation (?)

Somebody remind me when I do a H/C upgrade to pull all this funly AIR stuff +out+ (might actually be able to swap plugs without maiming myself )

Thanks again!
Try cleaning it before you replace it. You might just luck out and not have to worr about it anymore for a while.

BC
Old 03-25-2007, 07:35 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Try cleaning it before you replace it. You might just luck out and not have to worr about it anymore for a while.

BC
Absolutely, I checked out all the lines/locations using your instructions, so I just need to score some carb cleaner. I will definitely try that first
Old 04-08-2007, 01:00 AM
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Thanks for the advice. Code was being thrown almost every time the car was cold started.... after cleaning it has not shown up!...

Paul.
Old 04-22-2007, 10:07 PM
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Is P1416 for the passenger or driver's side valve?
Old 04-22-2007, 10:11 PM
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passenger side
Old 04-23-2007, 04:08 PM
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Thx! I'll try the carb cleaner/WD-40 technique to avoid bruised knuckles! I've noticed a weird thing when I run my A/C for a long road trip. Usually after about 1.5 hrs of running the a/c, all of a sudden the output of air drops down and even w/ the fan on max setting, there still isn't much air coming out the vents. I wonder if this valve is the cause of this problem? What does this air pump/valve thingy do anyway?
Old 04-23-2007, 08:18 PM
  #30  
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Well, I think I found the answer to my question. Seems this pump puts air in w/ the exhaust gases based on what the O2 sensors dictate. So much for my theory!
Old 05-10-2007, 05:20 AM
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Hey Bill, first off, an excellent writeup. Secondly, a couple questions for you:

Why and how is the output side of the air pump vacuum controlled?

How does the ECM know the AIR system isnt working? is there just some cold start AFR threshold, and if the AFR is richer than this threshold, then the ECM knows that the AIR system isnt working?

I disconnected my AIR system and now Ive got a check engine light. How can I get this light to shut off without taking my car to a tuner?

thanks! -Quin
Old 05-17-2007, 02:25 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by DNQfromMP
How does the ECM know the AIR system isnt working? is there just some cold start AFR threshold, and if the AFR is richer than this threshold, then the ECM knows that the AIR system isnt working?
According to the Service Manual, there are all kinds of conditions that must be meet before the Air Pump system does a diagnostic check. Essentially, when all these conditions are met in a closed-loop scenario (meaning O2 sensors are controlling A/F while cruising down the road), the air pump operates for a short time, and the computer looks for a drop in the O2 sensor outputs below a predetermined threshold (222 mv I think), which would indicate that a sufficent amount of fresh air is being injected into the exhaust system.

I believe the air pump system really only operates while the car is cold and warming up to help reduce emissions. The self diagnostic test is done well after the car is warmed up and in a closed-loop cruising mode.

So, the reason a P1416 code is thrown when the check valve behind the engine is stuck is because the valve isn't letting fresh air into the RH exhaust manifold, and then the O2 sensor output doesn't drop enough and the computer sees that as a fault.

Last edited by ZeeOSix; 09-26-2007 at 02:27 PM.
Old 05-17-2007, 02:28 AM
  #33  
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I just got the P1416 code today too. Someone in this thread mentioned that the check valve guts has some plastic material in it? If so, I'm wondering if carb cleaner can harm the plastic?
Old 05-25-2007, 01:44 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by maryland
Thanks Bill. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Old 05-25-2007, 02:01 PM
  #35  
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Cleaning is the way to go, and works for most people. If cleaning doesn't clear up the trouble-code, then check valve replacement, or hose/gasket replacement (due to air leaks) might be required.

I used some carb cleaner to clean both check valves to try and get rid of my P1416 trouble-code and Check Engine Light. Pulled the AIR hose open at the splice next to the windshield washer fluid tank (no clamps there), and sprayed ALOT of carb cleaner down the hose. Then used compressed air at about 25 psi to blow the cleaner through the AIR hose system to both check valves. Repeated the process a couple more times, and probably used 1/3 or more of the can of carb cleaner. Blew air through the system for awhile after the last douching of the system to evaporate the carb cleaner before firing up the engine. Reconnected the AIR hose and fired it up. Had some funky exhaust smells until everything burned off inside the exhaust system. BTW - carb cleaner was CRC brand, and it says it's safe for O2 sensors and catalytic converters.

Drove the car a few different times and checked for P1416 after each drive. NO CODES found. Seems the carb cleaner cleaning method worked for now. I didn't use any WD-40, as I'm not sure what that might do to the O2 sensors and cats. I had pulled the AIR tube off of the check valve on the drivers side before cleaning the system, and noticed a slight oil residue on the inside of the tube. I think the valves let a little blow by go backward through them, and with time they get gunked up with exhaust residue, and the heat might make the residue even worse with time. Carb cleaner is good for cutting oily residue and carbon build up. Not sure if using WD-40 might end up causing more residue in the check valves due to heat. Sticking with straight carb cleaner seemed to work fine for me.
Old 06-09-2007, 03:27 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for all you did for this. I had this problem and followed your instructions and it WORKED!!!!
Old 06-14-2007, 06:00 PM
  #37  
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Default Predator work around to p1416 p1415

Hey guys,

I have a p1416 error... and just passed my smog test.

Pretty funny work around, I had my engine warm, removed the Predator sport tune, then took it in for smog. I remembered the part wasn't failing before I installed the Predator tune. The Predator flashed the computer with my old data as well as my old error codes . P1416 wasn't there till the next day. Unfortunately I still have to reset it constantly.

Chris

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Old 06-15-2007, 01:54 PM
  #38  
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Play it safe, use "Throttle Body Cleaner" which is milder and made to go eassier on plastics. It worked for me.

PS Great write up and photos!
Old 06-30-2007, 09:41 PM
  #39  
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Super stuff!! Bill comes through again!!

I get the CHECK ENGINE light from the 1416 once in awhile, it lights up just as the engine comes up to operating temperature. I've just been re-setting it.

I'm sure going to try cleaning the sucker!!

Thanks ... RonJ ...
Old 06-30-2007, 10:01 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RonJ
Super stuff!! Bill comes through again!!

I get the CHECK ENGINE light from the 1416 once in awhile, it lights up just as the engine comes up to operating temperature. I've just been re-setting it.

I'm sure going to try cleaning the sucker!!

Thanks ... RonJ ...
Ron

please let us know how you make out. Good luck

Bill


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