Clutch suggestions - 450-500hp - Street Friendly
#1
Racer
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Clutch suggestions - 450-500hp - Street Friendly
I'm sure this topic has been discussed NUMEROUS times, but I couldn't find a good way to search the section, I come up with WAY too many results, and couldn't find a good one to look at.
What's a good clutch setup to go with for a 99 FRC w/ 450-500hp that will be driven on the street a lot? (Not some crazy drag clutch, lol) I'm probably just goin to swap out the stock clutch when I put my heads/cam/headers on to be safe, I don't like breaking stuff! (Towing my cars)
Thanks,
Kyle
P.S. Feel free to just link me to a good thread to read.
What's a good clutch setup to go with for a 99 FRC w/ 450-500hp that will be driven on the street a lot? (Not some crazy drag clutch, lol) I'm probably just goin to swap out the stock clutch when I put my heads/cam/headers on to be safe, I don't like breaking stuff! (Towing my cars)
Thanks,
Kyle
P.S. Feel free to just link me to a good thread to read.
#2
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08
Spec 3+ is my vote. Maybe not the very best clutch, but definatly a good clutch for a good price, and is very very streetable. rated by spec to handle 850, which means it will do about 700 . I had on, but it would slip at about the 800 mark. Up to that point it was fantastic.
#3
Racer
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I had a spec in my mustang, it seemed real streetable, but I wore through it real fast... although I was a no0b driver at that point (not that I have changed much, LOL)
#4
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We have been using and recommending the Textralia for a while now and have had great results. Feel free to give us a call with any questions..
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#5
Racer
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What if I don't want to spend $1000 on a clutch?
Maybe I'm wrong that they cost that much, that's just what I'm seeing, and that seems pretty extreme for the power level I want.
Thanks
Maybe I'm wrong that they cost that much, that's just what I'm seeing, and that seems pretty extreme for the power level I want.
Thanks
#6
Team Owner
I have been looking as well. I am also trying to shed a few pounds from the assembly. The Clutchmaster 300 series is looking pretty good, and gets good press on LS2.com and a couple of other web sites. I think once you go from kevlar to ceramic based materials the clutch is going to be more "grabby". If you don't race, the LS7 with a Fidanza flywheel is also worth considering.
#7
Racer
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The car will be used for just about everything, street mainly, probalby 5-8 auto-x's a year, maybe take it down the 1/4 mile or race it on the street some (it's in my nature).
Not really into road course though.
I mainly want to make sure it's enjoyable to drive on the street and bareable in stop & go traffic, lol
Not really into road course though.
I mainly want to make sure it's enjoyable to drive on the street and bareable in stop & go traffic, lol
#8
99 FRC and my stocker was worthless too, w 435 rwhp.
Things to consider:
you need to upgrade master/slave hydraulics to the 'z06' style. Your 99 stockers are crap.
Driveability-Often race clutches are unfriendly for daily stop and go driving
*I've often heard that a 'stage 3 type' is a PITA around town
You'll need a new balanced pressure plate too.
I've heard lots of guys like textrila. Personally I did the ls7 clutch. Tons of holding power and stock pedal feel for drivabilty. It rocks!!
I also did a mod on my new hydraulics where I drilled out the fittings a bit to flow my fluid for faster shifting.
Good luck
Things to consider:
you need to upgrade master/slave hydraulics to the 'z06' style. Your 99 stockers are crap.
Driveability-Often race clutches are unfriendly for daily stop and go driving
*I've often heard that a 'stage 3 type' is a PITA around town
You'll need a new balanced pressure plate too.
I've heard lots of guys like textrila. Personally I did the ls7 clutch. Tons of holding power and stock pedal feel for drivabilty. It rocks!!
I also did a mod on my new hydraulics where I drilled out the fittings a bit to flow my fluid for faster shifting.
Good luck
#10
Master and slave can be had for just over $100 each.
Contact Gene @ GM parts house he'll take care of you.
You should also get a remote clutch bleeder ($85 @ LAPD).
Makes bleeding the clutch a 1 person job and can be done from engine compartment.
BTW I purchased the Textralia from ECS...Iv'e heard mixed results with the LS7.
I don't want to do this job twice !!
Contact Gene @ GM parts house he'll take care of you.
You should also get a remote clutch bleeder ($85 @ LAPD).
Makes bleeding the clutch a 1 person job and can be done from engine compartment.
BTW I purchased the Textralia from ECS...Iv'e heard mixed results with the LS7.
I don't want to do this job twice !!
#11
Safety Car
I've got the Textralia, the cost at first was But the damn thing holds up to a 5k clutch dump with 100 shot Drives like a stock unit, plus the service from Peter is seconf to none
#12
I had the textrailia in my 436ci motor for thousands of miles and when I installed the 402 the clutch still looked brand new, both motors are in the 550rwhp range thought the larger motor had more torque, I think the aussie clutch is an install and forget your clutch problems type deal, and as quoted the service from peter is second to none, talk to chris at ecs he has put them through hell with much more powerful cars and he test his on the track--I have tried several others that are no longer in the car and the wear and tear on them took its tole fairly quickly, I swear by my aussie clutch, and they make a dual disk now that should handle all the power anyone can get out of these motors--
#13
Melting Slicks
I had the same question a couple of months back...everyone said use a "Tex"...but that was just too expensive. I went with a Centerforce Stage two from Summit and it has worked perfect. I will let you know that pedal is harder than stock (wife noticed it and complained...but sh'e over it now)
I guessing I'm putting down the HP you mentioned with my Procharger.
I guessing I'm putting down the HP you mentioned with my Procharger.
#15
I am running the Spec 3+ with their billet steel fly wheel right now as my DD and it is smooth. The 3+ I guess is an upgrade to the grabby stage 3. It was still expensive I only saved like $200 bucks from not getting the Tex. I have not taken it to the track yet but so far it feels like it will hold a good launch. I love it so far and I am glad I chose it. Oh BTW I am at the 416rwhp mark
#16
Ram Powergrip HD here with resurfaced flywheel. Pedal is a lot stiffer than stock and has a little chatter (which goes away as you get used to driving it) but it grips like a ****!! Got the the clutch for under $400 and replaced the slave (about $100) and pilot bearing ($20), resurface flywheel was about $40, and labor was $500 (drill mod was done as well). I am running just under 400 rwhp N/A and about 475-500 rwhp on spray (TNT F1 kit). I have already taken it to the strip a couple of times, no burnt clutch smell, no dead pedal after passes, no misshifts.
If you are on a budget, I would highly recommend this clutch!!
If you are on a budget, I would highly recommend this clutch!!
#17
Drifting
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If you are looking for someting with a very stock pedal feel and
a LOT of holding power, check out the RAM street dual disc.
I drove a 99 FRC with this clutch, and the pedal feel is unbelievably smooth. This car will have headers and a Procharger
within the next two months, and holding power won't be a problem.
http://www.ramclutches.com/Specialty...tch_system.htm
I have a 99 coupe that will get heads, cam, and headers this summer
and I plan to go with this clutch, just because the drivability is so nice.
I might see the track once after I do my mods, but for a 450 HP daily
driver, this will be my choice.
a LOT of holding power, check out the RAM street dual disc.
I drove a 99 FRC with this clutch, and the pedal feel is unbelievably smooth. This car will have headers and a Procharger
within the next two months, and holding power won't be a problem.
http://www.ramclutches.com/Specialty...tch_system.htm
I have a 99 coupe that will get heads, cam, and headers this summer
and I plan to go with this clutch, just because the drivability is so nice.
I might see the track once after I do my mods, but for a 450 HP daily
driver, this will be my choice.
#18
Team Owner
The Tex seems to have a good following, does it drive like stock (no chatter, can slip in traffic at idle, etc.) I need to have a clutch that my wife can drive. My concern with the Tex is the clutch material doesn't seem to be consistent with street driving like stock.
Also, I have read the Tex with aluminum flywheel is no longer made, can anyone confirm?
Also, I have read the Tex with aluminum flywheel is no longer made, can anyone confirm?
#19
Team Owner
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CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
^ The textralia will chatter a little as it's a 6-puck disk design... thus it won't always grab as evenly as a standard disk clutch. My buddy Joe (HPADDICT) has one and it's really nothing bad at all.
I have a LUK StageII w/ the Fidanza aluminum flywheel... it's done fine since '05. Has 20% more holding power than the '02+ Z06 clutch.
If the clutch ever has to come out again... I'm going textralia.
I have a LUK StageII w/ the Fidanza aluminum flywheel... it's done fine since '05. Has 20% more holding power than the '02+ Z06 clutch.
If the clutch ever has to come out again... I'm going textralia.
#20
Drifting
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Another reason I'm looking hard at a dual-disc, is that with
headers, changing the clutch is more of a PITA. I think the dual disc will
last 2 to 3 times longer.
headers, changing the clutch is more of a PITA. I think the dual disc will
last 2 to 3 times longer.