chuckster

I know there is a chemical that converts rust to a clear original finish and keeps the metal protected like a finish. DOes anyone know what it is????


I used iron out today to get the rust off my new rotors. It worked great for about 10 minutes. YOu'd have to immediately dry them to keep the rust from forming again. I'd like it to be more permanant... Like a Zinc wash

I am not talking about the fire path. I know that gets rusty but goes away after a few brake taps.

I am trying to avoid removing the rotors to treat them....

chuckster

ttt

C54TIM

Zinc Plating!
You can't buy it. It is closely monitored by the EPA. A plating shop can clean your rotors and Zinc Plate them.
Usually they will do a basket at a time. It's to expensive to just do 1-4 pieces, when the basket will hold allot (Depends on the size of the shop)
What ever you do, do not paint them!
Best of luck to ya!
Tim

wwashing

I hope you don't contaminate your pads!

chuckster

I was referring to a product like this....
http://www.icpi.net/Care1.htm

MelloYellow

Almost bought zinc plated rotors once. The manufacturer said the zinc plate would be gone in about 200 miles.

I use silver rotor hub covers. As long as they don't get wet, no rust shows on the rotor itself. If they do, you drive about 50 feet and the rust marks are gone as they scrape the pads. I found after I resurfaced once that I had less of a problem. Resurface your stocks nexnext time u change pads & see the diff. There's a lot of surface on our stock rotors.

chuckster

Where do you get the silver rotor hat covers?
BTW I just installed the GM drilled and slotted rotors. They looked awesome last week!

But all this F%$King rain! AGHHHH!

Blocktrdr

I had my GM drilled rotors zinc plated. They still look new. They come out looking like the inside of the high polish wheels. Best thing you could do with them.

silversport

Mine rust immedietly after I wash the car...seems to go away as soon as you apply the brakes...they are not supposed to have anything on them so they can get a good friction bite.

chuckster

Please tell me where you had them done... A place in Florida??? How much? Is it too late to have them done????


I am out of my head over this...They looked freakin Awesome when I 1st had them put on last week. Now they look like train wheels. :mad:
I wish I had them coated 1st.

Blocktrdr

Any Metal plating place can do it. I sent mine to a place called Gator plating in Coral Springs, FL. The finish when they are done is better than the Baers. You should pay a bit under $100 for four rotors. You can negotiate with them. I sent mine with one of my employees and he said they nickel plated them first, then zinc plated them clear. the coices were black gold or clear. Clear is really like polished silver.

chuckster

Dude you rule!!!!!

Maybe I'll get some sleep now....:D

Avanti

You can paint every part of the rotor (except the rub-areas, of course) and be perfectly okay. The trick is to have the area to be painted perfectly clean and free of contamination AND use ultra-high temp paint. I and others have done this on many vehicles with complete success. It will last for years if done correctly. Best of luck.

YO-EL

I have the Baers, and after 1 year, they rust when wet (during washing), but come up bright after a braking or two. Up until now they stayed bright even when wet during washing. Maybe the zinc coating gets worn off after 1 year???? Probably not worth getting them re-caoted. I mean, why??? So they can stay bright while they are standing still when I wash my car??

carpe dm

Rust is God's way of telling you that it is time to drive the car! Rotors WILL rust, just apply the brakes........ :conehead

MelloYellow

Blocktrdr:
Great info on the plating, thanks! How many miles on your Zinc/Nickel plate so far? Could u plz post some pics??!

Chuckster, I emailed u the rotor cap info!


[Modified by MelloYellow, 6:33 PM 9/30/2001]

99HT

Zinc plating is a total waste of time. The zinc will always corrode away. Cadmium was the plating of choice for years until the EPA banned it. Zinc is a very poor substitute. Remember boats use zinc to protect aluminum and stainless from corrosion. Zinc is used as a sacrificial metal.

chuckster

All the Zinc bolts in the jungle Gym I built 3 years ago still look fine. I think some people think I am referring to the fire path. Remember we are not talking about the fire path. I know that gets rusty. Nothing a little drive cant fix. I am concerned about the rest of the rotor looking like and old rusty train wheel. :D

Besides once the rotors heat up the water evaporates quickly enough to keep the zinc parts looking good.

And as far a Zinc being sacraficial in marine use. It's a chemical electrolysis in the salt water that makes that happen. Since I drive in Florida ....salted roads are not a concern

99HT

If you go to any marine supply house, you will see "new" zincs on the shelves with corrosion on them. Zinc only looks good for a short time. On rotors, the plating will never be thick enough to stand up to getting wet all the time.

I live on the coast in central FL, the salt air is murder. It is much worse than driving on salted streets up north. Salt laden air is both corrosive AND abrasive, if you are moving at speed through it. It is like getting sandblasted with salt.

Red Hot

When I had the wheels off to paint the calipers, I also painted the center hubs on the rotors. We used POR-15 black paint. It worked just fine and I have had no problems with it since then. Take your time and you can edge right up to the braking surface. A lot cheaper and more practical than taking the rotors to get plated. Plus the side benefit is that it frees up your money for other, better mods.