C5 Climate Control dim/dark display fix
#21
Thyis fix is Awesome!
I just followed the instructions and fixed mine in an hour...absolutely great directions.
I'm not very good at soldering, so I just re-heated the exisiting connections and it worked fine.
Don't be afrsid to try this one!
Scott
I'm not very good at soldering, so I just re-heated the exisiting connections and it worked fine.
Don't be afrsid to try this one!
Scott
#23
Instructor
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Belcamp MD
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Another happy customer... fixed mine today and I've never used a solder gun in my life.. whole thing took me about an hour and spent only $8 at wal-mart.
Thanks for the help
-Ryan-
Thanks for the help
-Ryan-
#27
Burning Brakes
Screw size info
Another big thanks and money saved from my quarter. I'm enough of a dummy that I wasted time trying to quick-read the console trim removal instructions. I got the front screws off and then couldn't figure out why I couldn't pull the assembly backwards! Remember kids, you need to slide back the 'tween seats storage compartment (remove the nuts under the plastic covers at the rear) and remove the nuts under the Active Handling Control. Or in other words, try following steps 1 and 2 before jumping to number 3 in the Vette Essentials picture book. [knocking head against wall]
Anyway, in reading through these posts, I haven't seen any mention of the screws in the Delco climate control unit itself. I found these to be tricky. On mine (coming out of a 2000 hardtop), the screws were 3/16" hexagonal nut heads without a slot for a screwdriver. You need a thin-walled socket to get the external ones off (the ones that hold the case together). There isn't much clearance between the screw heads and the case. There also isn't much vertical rise on the hexagon, so you can't cheat with a needlenose pliers or other makeshift incorrect tool.
The interior screws holding the power circuit board to the inside of the case are exactly the same thing. A straight handheld socket driver works fine, as there isn't a lot of torque to deal with. If you use a ratchet socket wrench, you'll need an extension riser, as you can't get the wrench inside the case.
Having the right tools on hand before you start always makes things easier!
Anyway, in reading through these posts, I haven't seen any mention of the screws in the Delco climate control unit itself. I found these to be tricky. On mine (coming out of a 2000 hardtop), the screws were 3/16" hexagonal nut heads without a slot for a screwdriver. You need a thin-walled socket to get the external ones off (the ones that hold the case together). There isn't much clearance between the screw heads and the case. There also isn't much vertical rise on the hexagon, so you can't cheat with a needlenose pliers or other makeshift incorrect tool.
The interior screws holding the power circuit board to the inside of the case are exactly the same thing. A straight handheld socket driver works fine, as there isn't a lot of torque to deal with. If you use a ratchet socket wrench, you'll need an extension riser, as you can't get the wrench inside the case.
Having the right tools on hand before you start always makes things easier!
Last edited by CaryKen; 04-07-2007 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Added title
#30
Le Mans Master
it's amazing that this has not been made a sticky!
something that isn't as common a problem like the "oil pressure sender relocate" thread gets to be made a sticky, but this topic that has affected a great many C5's is still not...
I guess until a mod needs this info it will never be a sticky.........
something that isn't as common a problem like the "oil pressure sender relocate" thread gets to be made a sticky, but this topic that has affected a great many C5's is still not...
I guess until a mod needs this info it will never be a sticky.........
#33
problem with same unit
I had my HVAC unit fixed by the guy on Ebay and it seemed to work great I could see all displays. I went on a weekend outing without the vette and came back to a dead battery. I now have a HVAC unit that the background lights will not go off and it is draining my battery. Does anyone know what the prob might be? I have tried to find the problem but I cannot seem to get these lights to go off. I read the repair manual and it says to disconnect the C3 connector from the BCM and if the lights go out then replace the BCM. I really don't think the BCM is the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions?
#34
If it's a 3rd party warranty then you have to read it. Some dont cover electronics, some will.
#35
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2004
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#36
Burning Brakes
Genoocid, Thank you
Well I got to say you helped me I took all of your gathered info and put it to use.
It took about less two HRs I took me 15min. to remove the unit from the dash. then I took it inside that took less then 45 min. to complete and then another 30 minutes to install. WoW I have a digital display that works, I have been driving around guessing what was on, the defroster or the foot or the vents you know , well how could you you were'nt there I was and I did not know where the air was coming from or even the outside temp. If I sound a little excited I am! you don't know what it's like when you get used to the simple plasure of the vette, I want to thank you for taking the time and helping out Thank you
Well I got to say you helped me I took all of your gathered info and put it to use.
It took about less two HRs I took me 15min. to remove the unit from the dash. then I took it inside that took less then 45 min. to complete and then another 30 minutes to install. WoW I have a digital display that works, I have been driving around guessing what was on, the defroster or the foot or the vents you know , well how could you you were'nt there I was and I did not know where the air was coming from or even the outside temp. If I sound a little excited I am! you don't know what it's like when you get used to the simple plasure of the vette, I want to thank you for taking the time and helping out Thank you
Great to have the digital display back. I even had a solder bridge between 2 of the resistors and had to use a small dremel blade to separate them. Couldn't believe it worked after all the grinding. My 02 had the same board as EnglandGreens.
Thanks for the info, dealer wanted almost $700.00 to replace with a new one.
#37
Yes, thank you so much! Mine too (1999) was the same board as EnglandGreen. The complete job was only a couple of hours from start to finish and cost was ZERO! Excellent result.
(You really do need the right tool to remove the tiny hex nuts which hold the HVAC unit together and the board in place.)
(You really do need the right tool to remove the tiny hex nuts which hold the HVAC unit together and the board in place.)
#38
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
EXCELLENT POST & EXCELLENT WORK!!!
BC
BC