Install clutch bleeder line w/o dropping tranny???
11-01-2006, 12:48 AM
#1
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Install clutch bleeder line w/o dropping tranny???
Can one install a bleeder line without dropping the heavyparts???
Thanks,
ace
Thanks,
ace
Last edited by ace996; 02-07-2007 at 01:46 PM. Reason: speling
11-01-2006, 09:54 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by jtkeller
I don't know anything about this either - but any chance to get to it from the top side, through the hole for the shifter?
11-01-2006, 08:38 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
If one was to drop his headers, remove the exhaust back to the muffler connection and drop the tunnel plate, what kind of access would he have then?
11-01-2006, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000C-5
If one was to drop his headers, remove the exhaust back to the muffler connection and drop the tunnel plate, what kind of access would he have then?
11-01-2006, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ace996
I seem to have the common problem of the clutch pedal not fully returning to it's released height after some full-throttle blasts. Even a simple full-on 3rd gear to 4th gear pull leaves the pedal very close to the floor... a few pushes on it and it comes back up.
Last month while at Pocono, the pedal stayed so close to the floor after my 2nd session that I needed to pull it up by hand. This released a torrent of MUD-like fluid into the reservoir. I changed out the reservoir fluid a few times and then was able to finish the day's sessions, but still with the clutch staying close to the floor....engaging and disengaging...but very close to the floor.
I've changed the reservoir fluid quite religiously in the past month, every few days or so. I do this by sucking all the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe and then putting several inches of "boost-gauge tubing" on the syringe and feeding it down the line to the master and sucking out all that fluid. I replace it with Motul600. It has been very clean with this method...but is still reluctant to return to it's normal level after some spirited running.
I bet my fluid in my slave is swampy. Perhaps being able to flush the whole system would help. I'd like to install the LAPD clutch bleeder line, the extended braided line, but don't want the expense of having the driveline dropped to do it.
Can one install a bleeder line without dropping the heavyparts???
Thanks,
ace
Last month while at Pocono, the pedal stayed so close to the floor after my 2nd session that I needed to pull it up by hand. This released a torrent of MUD-like fluid into the reservoir. I changed out the reservoir fluid a few times and then was able to finish the day's sessions, but still with the clutch staying close to the floor....engaging and disengaging...but very close to the floor.
I've changed the reservoir fluid quite religiously in the past month, every few days or so. I do this by sucking all the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe and then putting several inches of "boost-gauge tubing" on the syringe and feeding it down the line to the master and sucking out all that fluid. I replace it with Motul600. It has been very clean with this method...but is still reluctant to return to it's normal level after some spirited running.
I bet my fluid in my slave is swampy. Perhaps being able to flush the whole system would help. I'd like to install the LAPD clutch bleeder line, the extended braided line, but don't want the expense of having the driveline dropped to do it.
Can one install a bleeder line without dropping the heavyparts???
Thanks,
ace
11-01-2006, 09:59 PM
#9
Drifting
Originally Posted by willyfastz
I would think you should be able to do it like that. May be a little hard getting the new line started, but I would deff. try that before I dropped the drive train.
11-01-2006, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by FRCTony
I don't think so... maybe if you had a well trained miniature monkey
I'm just saying I would try it anyway, he may get lucky and save himself a lot of time.
11-01-2006, 10:09 PM
#11
Drifting
Originally Posted by willyfastz
I've been known to do things some say can't be done. I'm just saying I would try it anyway, he may get lucky and save himself a lot of time.
I'm just saying I would try it anyway, he may get lucky and save himself a lot of time.
11-01-2006, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by willyfastz
I would think you should be able to do it like that. May be a little hard getting the new line started, but I would deff. try that before I dropped the drive train.
Bill
11-01-2006, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn
If you can't hook up the bleeder hose then at least you could follow the factory recommended way of bleeding the clutch which does not require dropping the drive line.
Bill
Bill
Steve
11-01-2006, 11:58 PM
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This is out of the GM manual for an 03. There is a drawing showing a 1/4" ratchet and deep socket.
Clean all dirt and debris from the clutch master cylinder cap to ensure that no foreign substances will enter the system.
Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with diaphragm.
Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, if necessary.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully and hold.
Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Release the clutch pedal.
Clean all dirt and debris from the clutch master cylinder cap to ensure that no foreign substances will enter the system.
Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with diaphragm.
Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, if necessary.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully and hold.
Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Release the clutch pedal.
11-02-2006, 08:24 AM
#17
Safety Car
There is a solution to the bleeding which works better than anything from the bottom> http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
You can get a similar gadget @ Harbor Freight for ~$30.
I had a nasty probelm with an air bubble and could not get it out till I did the above. It took 10 minutes and absolutely worked!
Unfortuanatley I think your clutch is done. They do not seem to ever recover from the dreaded dead pedal. Pleople bleed ,drill, remove springs, etc and in the end the pressure plate is cooked. I have had two go that way.
You can get a similar gadget @ Harbor Freight for ~$30.
I had a nasty probelm with an air bubble and could not get it out till I did the above. It took 10 minutes and absolutely worked!
Unfortuanatley I think your clutch is done. They do not seem to ever recover from the dreaded dead pedal. Pleople bleed ,drill, remove springs, etc and in the end the pressure plate is cooked. I have had two go that way.
11-02-2006, 02:50 PM
#18
Race Director
Originally Posted by ace996
I seem to have the common problem of the clutch pedal not fully returning to it's released height after some full-throttle blasts. Even a simple full-on 3rd gear to 4th gear pull leaves the pedal very close to the floor... a few pushes on it and it comes back up.
Last month while at Pocono, the pedal stayed so close to the floor after my 2nd session that I needed to pull it up by hand. This released a torrent of MUD-like fluid into the reservoir. I changed out the reservoir fluid a few times and then was able to finish the day's sessions, but still with the clutch staying close to the floor....engaging and disengaging...but very close to the floor.
I've changed the reservoir fluid quite religiously in the past month, every few days or so. I do this by sucking all the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe and then putting several inches of "boost-gauge tubing" on the syringe and feeding it down the line to the master and sucking out all that fluid. I replace it with Motul600. It has been very clean with this method...but is still reluctant to return to it's normal level after some spirited running.
I bet my fluid in my slave is swampy. Perhaps being able to flush the whole system would help. I'd like to install the LAPD clutch bleeder line, the extended braided line, but don't want the expense of having the driveline dropped to do it.
Can one install a bleeder line without dropping the heavyparts???
Thanks,
ace
Last month while at Pocono, the pedal stayed so close to the floor after my 2nd session that I needed to pull it up by hand. This released a torrent of MUD-like fluid into the reservoir. I changed out the reservoir fluid a few times and then was able to finish the day's sessions, but still with the clutch staying close to the floor....engaging and disengaging...but very close to the floor.
I've changed the reservoir fluid quite religiously in the past month, every few days or so. I do this by sucking all the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe and then putting several inches of "boost-gauge tubing" on the syringe and feeding it down the line to the master and sucking out all that fluid. I replace it with Motul600. It has been very clean with this method...but is still reluctant to return to it's normal level after some spirited running.
I bet my fluid in my slave is swampy. Perhaps being able to flush the whole system would help. I'd like to install the LAPD clutch bleeder line, the extended braided line, but don't want the expense of having the driveline dropped to do it.
Can one install a bleeder line without dropping the heavyparts???
Thanks,
ace
. It was done successfully by a forum member who documented it well.. He made some custom tools to do it...If you have long tube headers.. forget it! you need to have the clutch inspection plate removed...
Give me your email.. I will send you the document.. Also my suggestion is to add a SPEED BLEEDER to the end of the LAPD remote bleeder to make it a truely one man operation..
11-14-2006, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob25thTA
Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.
Anyone got a pic?
Ryan
11-14-2006, 07:22 PM
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I had a similar problem at Spring Mountain this month, pedal went to the floor.
Let is cool down and sucked the fluid out of the master cylinder. Added new ATE high temp blue (what I am running in the brakes) slowly pushed and pulled the clutch pedal until the pedal came back. Now full of black fluid, sucked it out again, refill and repeat.
Pedal came back and fluid is now blue. All OK finished weekend.
I was told that the clutch hose runs under the exhaust pipes in a tube to get to the right side of the car. The fluid gets vapor locked and the fix is to cover the clutch hose and tube in high temp aircraft hose insulation. Which I plan on doing before the next track day. It sure is nice to talk to people who have already been there!
Let is cool down and sucked the fluid out of the master cylinder. Added new ATE high temp blue (what I am running in the brakes) slowly pushed and pulled the clutch pedal until the pedal came back. Now full of black fluid, sucked it out again, refill and repeat.
Pedal came back and fluid is now blue. All OK finished weekend.
I was told that the clutch hose runs under the exhaust pipes in a tube to get to the right side of the car. The fluid gets vapor locked and the fix is to cover the clutch hose and tube in high temp aircraft hose insulation. Which I plan on doing before the next track day. It sure is nice to talk to people who have already been there!