Early1

I'm trying to find a rotor that will last longer for track days on road courses. The best I've gotten is about 350 miles before they crack and have to be tossed. I heard mentioned that cyro-treated rotors will get three times the wear. Has anyone used them on a road track with success? If so, which ones have you found to be the best?

black98c5

I hear nothing but good things about the cryo-treated Powerslot rotors.

5 Liter Eater

I use them on my Jeep Grand Cherokee because that thing warps rotors like its it's job. They last longer, I would venture to say about 3 times longer. I haven't cut them yet so I don't know whether the cryo becomes null and void when they are turned. I got mine from frozenrotors.com.

HTH

Wicked Weasel

wow for the money they want

Frozen Rotors $440.00
slotted Cryo $632


they better last 4x or 6x times more than the rockautos I get sent to my hhouse for under $100.00.

Humanoid 2.0

Just stick your rockautos in the freezer for a while

AU N EGL

Seen two sets at the track, cracked faster then stock rotors. If you want rotors to last longer, change your braking style or go to a thicker rotor on a BBK.

I use to work with Liquid N2. It can penitrate up to 2 to 3 mm of human tissue providing it is done properly with an isopentain dip.

Othe wise it cause tissue to crystalize.

Liquid N2 does not penitate Iron persay only the micrscopic holes in the iron.

And if it did work, the first time you heat up those rotors any beniffets would be gone.

Dont waist your money on cryo anything that is thicker then 2 mm.

Yes I have read the so call published articles, almost all of them were shame papers published in non-per review journels.

Dave68

"I first tried them back in 1999 for a street car, which as time progressed turned into a Race Car. Everything on the vehicle had been changed except the brake rotors. Today, one set of the Frozen Rotors has survived 2 years of stop and go traffic, 13 driving schools, 6 club race weekends, and 3 enduro races, not to mention numerous testing days. While other competitors have changed rotors on a regular basis, due to warping and cracking, I have never thought about my rotors for 3 years and over 20 brake pad changes. Frozen Rotors is a product which gives me an “unfair advantage”. We have compared rotor temperatures with cars built similarly to mine, and the difference has been between 75 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit! Because of my experience with them on a race car, I have now replaced all the rotors on all of my cars, and will ONLY use Frozen Rotors. They have saved me money, effort, time, and most importantly, piece of mind. While I do not want my competitors to find out about them, I feel this is a product which gives more then a performance gain; it also increases safety on and off track. I am more then merely satisfied; I am in awe of the product."

John Kawasaki
BMW E30 M3 D-Modified #518,
Bullet Performance Costa Mesa, California.


Do a search and you will find many more racers who have have verified that Cryo-treated rotors are more durable than the standard, untreated variety. I would tend to believe them. BTW, you probably know this, but stay away from drilled rotors ; they have a history of cracking after hard use.

I have PowerSlot, cryo-treated rotors from the Tirerack and I couldn't be happier.

Wicked Weasel

Well I would believe what AU N EGL saw with his own 2 eyes versus anything I read on the internet. He is a proven track driver and does many HPDE events.

I honestly dont think that any rotor would last as long as stated in the quote. If that was true then why does the C6R corvette rotors that are $10K each only last one event? It would make sense to switch over to these rotors if they could get that much time out of them even if they had to scarifice some weight.

Anyway at the end of the day are they really worth that much more than the stock rotors. Figure if they last 6X longer that would be great, but if they didn't then it would be a waste of mney.

AU N EGL

The only place I have seen cryo rotors do any good is on cars that do not weight very much, dont brake hard AND the race driver is a 'momenteum' driver. But then that defeets the purpose of cryo.

Not worth the cost for a vette, but hey its your money.

Dave68

Well, that depends on how much you value your time. If I can avoid doing brake work every two years instead of even four years with the Cryo rotors, then it is worth it to me. Cracking rotors on a track is not something I'd like to experience. Besides, plain rotors tend to build up uneven deposits of brake pad material during street driving. They are not an option for me.

Wicked Weasel

First - it takes all of 15 mins to change a rotor so time is not an issue. Cost and durability is though. A track car is doing brake work for every event no matter what. It is part of racing and part of being safe. I would never take my car to the track without fresh brake fluid, checking the rotors and the pads.

Second - the chance of cracking a rotor on the track is very slim. For the most it happens when the rotor is trying to cool down. To hopefully prolong the live of the rotor one should have a good cool down lap and should roll your car 10 mins after you park the car to allow a different area on the rotor to absorb the heat of the pad. There is though no way to avoid cracking a rotor I dont care what is done to it. Figure the C6R team cracked a $10K rotor at Sebring. Do you think the $600.00 cyro will be better than the $10K C6R ones?

third there is no cost savings even figuring in time. you are adding an additional 1.5 hours of time to the process plus the cost of the rotors. The total cost is $250.00 ($150 for labor and $100 for the rotors) . The variance between the rockautos and the Cryo is $500.00 ($100 for rock vs. $600 for cyro) so you actually save $250.00 doing it twice with the rockautos.

AU N EGL

Plus one must bleed their brakes EVERY time one goes to the track. PLus the time spent on VISURAL inspection, again must be done every time before a race or track event.

Dave68

I'm not just referring to track use. Many C5 owners will track their cars and then simply drive back home. There is a big difference between a serious track car and an occasional track car and I'll bet there are many more occasional trackers on this forum and in general.

Now, lets rethink your 15-minute rotor replacement number. The average C5 owner will spend much more time than that replacing rotors. I've done it many times in my garage with my 68 and I think it's safe to say that not everyone has air tools and a honkin big compressor to use. Personally, I have to remove a car, center my car in the garage, roll up my car on some wood planks, jack up the front, jack up the back, position the jack stands, etc, etc. An since I'm not 21 any more, moving super-quickly is asking for an injury I can do without.

So, to recap - buy rotors that are less likely to warp, crack, corrode, allow pad deposits to adhere to, or just plain wear out. With the hours you save from having to change them, you can be washing and waxing your C5 or just relaxing with a glass of wine on your patio.

Wicked Weasel

here is the recap to change the rotor at the track.

1. Put jack under side of car with the crack rotor.
2. Lift car to remove wheel.
3. Remove 5 lugnuts with cordless impact.
4. Remove wheel.
5. Remove 2 caliper bolts (usually with a breaker bar).
6. Remove caliper
7. pull rotor off
8. put new rotor on
9. replace caliper
10. replace caliper bolts
11. replace wheel
12. replace lugs
13. lower car
14. remove jack
15. torque lugs to #100

since this is at the track all of my tools are setup already for this. I also have high temp gloves to remove the hot rotor.

You are correct though at home it would take longer because the tools would need to be taken out of the tool box. Honestly with no air tools (excluding the cordless impact) I do all of my brakes (pads, rotors, and bleed) in 1.5 hours.

I am sure that when I get older though it will take longer.

It is your money so spend it as you may. I just want people to see the cost difference versus the time the rotors will last.

In the end a street car will hardly go through any rotor.

BTW - I like your idea of the glass of wine

Wicked Weasel

Oh and I can remove and replace the front pads even quicker

Dirty Howie

Hey, I think your all correct. Dave is certainly a smart guy and these rotors work well for him and he gets to consume bottle after bottle of wine

Wicked and Tom are certainly correct that all rotors crack. I am only a novice at the track and have cracked three....and thats WITH cool down lap, driving around the paddock and rolling the car 2-3 times after the session.

I check bolts, pads, rotors and bleed before every track day and am getting faster all the time. But when I do change pads or rotors I take a LOT of time as I too am old and don't want to screw up

If those cryo rotors came with a guarantee not to crack I would by them in a heartbeat......


DH

AU N EGL

I asked one company to send me a set to test. If they didnt crack in the normal time frame 3 to 5 track weekends. I would send him double his asking price. If they did crack I would let the world know what he was selling.

Needless to say he did not send me a set nor will talk to me again.

I think that says volumes.

VetteDrmr

<Guy on other end of phone to Tom>"You want me to back up my own product???"

<click>

Wicked Weasel

AU N EGL

Oh that is a good one.



Funny part is companies pay be 4 figures to give honest opions of their products. Have many repeat companies. some change products slightly some dramticly. Some companies are one time customers as their products were soo bad they could not take the truth about them.

Oh well.