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Cyro-treated Rotors worth the cost?

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Old 10-12-2006, 08:23 PM
  #21  
Dirty Howie
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I think that says volumes.
Yes it does ......


But maybe you were talking too FAST and he didn't get your phone number written down correctly


DH
Old 10-12-2006, 08:50 PM
  #22  
gpracer1
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Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
Old 10-12-2006, 09:37 PM
  #23  
JasonS
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I changed my stock rotors to Baer Eradispeeds for my 01 Coupe shortly after getting the car (they are drilled and slotted)...I had the rotors directly shipped to a place that cryo treated them (I'm certain it wasn't more than US$200) and then had them shipped to my home to install.
I've put 50K km on it (I guess that's ~ 30K miles or so) with some occassional spirited braking (no track use) and have no problems with warping at all, and they don't appear to need replacement. I spent about $800 on the rotors and figured the $200 cryo treatment was a good investment on these pricey (comparative to stock) rotors...time will tell, but so far, so good.
Cheers
Jason
Old 10-12-2006, 10:01 PM
  #24  
Dirty Howie
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Originally Posted by JasonS
I changed my stock rotors to Baer Eradispeeds for my 01 Coupe shortly after getting the car (they are drilled and slotted)...I had the rotors directly shipped to a place that cryo treated them (I'm certain it wasn't more than US$200) and then had them shipped to my home to install.
I've put 50K km on it (I guess that's ~ 30K miles or so) with some occassional spirited braking (no track use) and have no problems with warping at all, and they don't appear to need replacement. I spent about $800 on the rotors and figured the $200 cryo treatment was a good investment on these pricey (comparative to stock) rotors...time will tell, but so far, so good.
Cheers
Jason
I have cracked Baer two piece rotors .... 2 D/S and 2 Slotted only at the track.


DH
Old 10-12-2006, 10:39 PM
  #25  
Dave68
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Originally Posted by gpracer1
Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
Excellent facts about cryo treating many, many types of parts to make them last longer......

"Brake systems

[Q]Tests on brakes used in racing show that cryogenically treating brake disks will induce a significant reduction in wear in both the disk and the brake pad. Stopping power and ability are unaffected. If the pads are also treated, there is a significant increase in the life of the pad. Note that the pads treated were metallic pads. Our testing has been done both on racing cars and on brake dynamometers. The results are the same both ways[/Q].

I'm sure the naysayers were abundant when TiN (Titanium Nitride) coated tools were first introduced. It has proven to be very effective at extending the life of all kinds of tool bits. GM was using Nitrided cranks in the 60s and I can remember the nonbelievers scoffing at whether this process was worth anything.

For those of you who do not believe, take a course in thermodynamics, where various methods of treating metals is discussed in detail. Then have a glass of wine!
Old 10-12-2006, 11:59 PM
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Miles in Michigan
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Liquid N2 does not penitate Iron persay only the micrscopic holes in the iron.....Dont waist your money on cryo anything that is thicker then 2 mm.
The liquid N2 doesn't need to penetrate the iron, they cold-soak the part being treated for hours and hours. By the end of the process (before the gradual warm-up), the entire part is at -300f, all the way through.

The reason freezing human tissue can't go deeper than 2-3mm is because you want the effect to be localized. If you put liquid nitrogen on a person for a longer and longer time, the spot being frozen will get wider just as fast as it gets deeper. And as soon as the tissue gets below freezing ice crystals will form which'll pop cells, destroying them. So slowly cooling skin is bad if you want to freeze a tiny portion, but slowly cooling metal parts sure as heck will go all the way through to the center.
Old 10-13-2006, 08:25 AM
  #27  
AU N EGL
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Originally Posted by gpracer1
Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
Read it. and have read many of the cryo articals. There are several articals that also show that if the metal is greater then 3 mm thick the benifets are questionable.

Still dont believe cryo is a good option of brake rotors. Thin metals and metals then never see 1200-1600 degrees of of constant heat ( 5-15 sec ) YES. Metals that see those high temps ??

IMHO a brake rotor of iron is just too thick to benefit from cryo treatment. But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.
Old 10-13-2006, 10:07 AM
  #28  
gpracer1
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Read it. and have read many of the cryo articals. There are several articals that also show that if the metal is greater then 3 mm thick the benifets are questionable.

Still dont believe cryo is a good option of brake rotors. Thin metals and metals then never see 1200-1600 degrees of of constant heat ( 5-15 sec ) YES. Metals that see those high temps ??

IMHO a brake rotor of iron is just too thick to benefit from cryo treatment. But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.
Give me for free.
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
All kinds of people doing serious racing have used cryo treating for years. I didnt know what it exactly did either, but since I was ignorant of it I just did research instead of bashing.
Old 10-13-2006, 10:46 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by gpracer1
Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
Looks like techno-bable hype from a vendor. Cryo does everything except babysit your kids...

It's basically a stress relieving process.

Rotors don't warp. Do a google on Carrol Smith & warp. Stoptech website has a reprint.

A 1-5% improvement in metallurgy for a 10x cost makes no economic sense. Ask any T1 racer. They don't like to was time or money.
Old 10-13-2006, 10:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by UstaB-GS549
Looks like techno-bable hype from a vendor. Cryo does everything except babysit your kids...
.
Does that too - just tie the cracked cryo rotors around their neck and they are not going anywhere

Last edited by Wicked Weasel; 10-13-2006 at 11:06 AM.
Old 10-13-2006, 11:05 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
Does that too - just tie the cryo rotors around their neck and they are not going anywhere

No, no, cryo the kids, the will be frozen in place.

I worked for a knife company the cryo their knife blades, it helped with knives, not sure of the benefit with rotors.
Old 10-13-2006, 12:30 PM
  #32  
AU N EGL
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Originally Posted by gpracer1
Give me for free.
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
All kinds of people doing serious racing have used cryo treating for years. I didnt know what it exactly did either, but since I was ignorant of it I just did research instead of bashing.
I understand it very well and have read many reports and techniacl articals on the cryo process. and in many cases YES cryo treatment does help. Unfotunitly have not seen a peer review journal doing an indpendent test that was not sponsord or paid for by a company. They may be out there, but have not seen one yet.

Normally I charge several thousand dollars for product evaluation, which I do a lot of. I also have many repeat customers.

The cryo rotors we have seen on the track crack just as fast if not faster the the same size OEM or OEM style rotors. That is the KEY, same size. Most racing rotors are 1.4" think not the standared OEM 1.1" thick

Remeber rotors are made in differnt thickness, differnent cool vain configuratins and grades of iron. Some of the new rotors are cut from high grade 13" or 14" steel bar stock now too.

The debait can go on forever. If you like them great, it you dont like them great.
Old 10-13-2006, 01:05 PM
  #33  
VetteDrmr
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Originally Posted by gpracer1
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
More things I don't understand:

1. GM's CLB fix
2. The Tornado
3. Slick 50
4. Cross drilled rotors

NE1 care to help?

Have a good one,
Mike
Old 10-13-2006, 02:26 PM
  #34  
MattB
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I'm not sold on the idea, I just just don't see the physics of it. Kind of sounds like voodoo rather than science.

I've seen one person use them in 'real life' they had non-drill and non-slotted, and they cracked in less than a season. They were not impressed with the life span at all.
Old 10-13-2006, 02:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
More things I don't understand:

1. GM's CLB fix
2. The Tornado
3. Slick 50
4. Cross drilled rotors

NE1 care to help?

Have a good one,
Mike

5. Rocking seat
6. System Charging Fault
7. 2001 oil consumption (wait i understand that one )
Old 10-13-2006, 03:37 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.
You can also ask Reeves Calloway or Jim Hall all day long for free intake products, just because you don't believe their "hype", but I doubt their refusal is any indication that their data is false.



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