Cyro-treated Rotors worth the cost?
#21
Team Owner
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I think that says volumes.
But maybe you were talking too FAST and he didn't get your phone number written down correctly
DH
#23
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I changed my stock rotors to Baer Eradispeeds for my 01 Coupe shortly after getting the car (they are drilled and slotted)...I had the rotors directly shipped to a place that cryo treated them (I'm certain it wasn't more than US$200) and then had them shipped to my home to install.
I've put 50K km on it (I guess that's ~ 30K miles or so) with some occassional spirited braking (no track use) and have no problems with warping at all, and they don't appear to need replacement. I spent about $800 on the rotors and figured the $200 cryo treatment was a good investment on these pricey (comparative to stock) rotors...time will tell, but so far, so good.
Cheers
Jason
I've put 50K km on it (I guess that's ~ 30K miles or so) with some occassional spirited braking (no track use) and have no problems with warping at all, and they don't appear to need replacement. I spent about $800 on the rotors and figured the $200 cryo treatment was a good investment on these pricey (comparative to stock) rotors...time will tell, but so far, so good.
Cheers
Jason
#24
Team Owner
Originally Posted by JasonS
I changed my stock rotors to Baer Eradispeeds for my 01 Coupe shortly after getting the car (they are drilled and slotted)...I had the rotors directly shipped to a place that cryo treated them (I'm certain it wasn't more than US$200) and then had them shipped to my home to install.
I've put 50K km on it (I guess that's ~ 30K miles or so) with some occassional spirited braking (no track use) and have no problems with warping at all, and they don't appear to need replacement. I spent about $800 on the rotors and figured the $200 cryo treatment was a good investment on these pricey (comparative to stock) rotors...time will tell, but so far, so good.
Cheers
Jason
I've put 50K km on it (I guess that's ~ 30K miles or so) with some occassional spirited braking (no track use) and have no problems with warping at all, and they don't appear to need replacement. I spent about $800 on the rotors and figured the $200 cryo treatment was a good investment on these pricey (comparative to stock) rotors...time will tell, but so far, so good.
Cheers
Jason
DH
#25
Race Director
Originally Posted by gpracer1
Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
"Brake systems
[Q]Tests on brakes used in racing show that cryogenically treating brake disks will induce a significant reduction in wear in both the disk and the brake pad. Stopping power and ability are unaffected. If the pads are also treated, there is a significant increase in the life of the pad. Note that the pads treated were metallic pads. Our testing has been done both on racing cars and on brake dynamometers. The results are the same both ways[/Q].
I'm sure the naysayers were abundant when TiN (Titanium Nitride) coated tools were first introduced. It has proven to be very effective at extending the life of all kinds of tool bits. GM was using Nitrided cranks in the 60s and I can remember the nonbelievers scoffing at whether this process was worth anything.
For those of you who do not believe, take a course in thermodynamics, where various methods of treating metals is discussed in detail. Then have a glass of wine!
#26
Drifting
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Liquid N2 does not penitate Iron persay only the micrscopic holes in the iron.....Dont waist your money on cryo anything that is thicker then 2 mm.
The reason freezing human tissue can't go deeper than 2-3mm is because you want the effect to be localized. If you put liquid nitrogen on a person for a longer and longer time, the spot being frozen will get wider just as fast as it gets deeper. And as soon as the tissue gets below freezing ice crystals will form which'll pop cells, destroying them. So slowly cooling skin is bad if you want to freeze a tiny portion, but slowly cooling metal parts sure as heck will go all the way through to the center.
#27
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Originally Posted by gpracer1
Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
Still dont believe cryo is a good option of brake rotors. Thin metals and metals then never see 1200-1600 degrees of of constant heat ( 5-15 sec ) YES. Metals that see those high temps ??
IMHO a brake rotor of iron is just too thick to benefit from cryo treatment. But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.
#28
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Read it. and have read many of the cryo articals. There are several articals that also show that if the metal is greater then 3 mm thick the benifets are questionable.
Still dont believe cryo is a good option of brake rotors. Thin metals and metals then never see 1200-1600 degrees of of constant heat ( 5-15 sec ) YES. Metals that see those high temps ??
IMHO a brake rotor of iron is just too thick to benefit from cryo treatment. But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.
Still dont believe cryo is a good option of brake rotors. Thin metals and metals then never see 1200-1600 degrees of of constant heat ( 5-15 sec ) YES. Metals that see those high temps ??
IMHO a brake rotor of iron is just too thick to benefit from cryo treatment. But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
All kinds of people doing serious racing have used cryo treating for years. I didnt know what it exactly did either, but since I was ignorant of it I just did research instead of bashing.
#29
Drifting
Originally Posted by gpracer1
Before you bag on cryo-treating too hard, do some reading.
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
http://www.metal-wear.com/More%20Detail.htm
It's basically a stress relieving process.
Rotors don't warp. Do a google on Carrol Smith & warp. Stoptech website has a reprint.
A 1-5% improvement in metallurgy for a 10x cost makes no economic sense. Ask any T1 racer. They don't like to was time or money.
#30
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 24,652
Received 297 Likes
on
94 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by UstaB-GS549
Looks like techno-bable hype from a vendor. Cryo does everything except babysit your kids...
.
.
Last edited by Wicked Weasel; 10-13-2006 at 11:06 AM.
#31
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
Does that too - just tie the cryo rotors around their neck and they are not going anywhere
No, no, cryo the kids, the will be frozen in place.
I worked for a knife company the cryo their knife blades, it helped with knives, not sure of the benefit with rotors.
#32
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Originally Posted by gpracer1
Give me for free.
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
All kinds of people doing serious racing have used cryo treating for years. I didnt know what it exactly did either, but since I was ignorant of it I just did research instead of bashing.
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
All kinds of people doing serious racing have used cryo treating for years. I didnt know what it exactly did either, but since I was ignorant of it I just did research instead of bashing.
Normally I charge several thousand dollars for product evaluation, which I do a lot of. I also have many repeat customers.
The cryo rotors we have seen on the track crack just as fast if not faster the the same size OEM or OEM style rotors. That is the KEY, same size. Most racing rotors are 1.4" think not the standared OEM 1.1" thick
Remeber rotors are made in differnt thickness, differnent cool vain configuratins and grades of iron. Some of the new rotors are cut from high grade 13" or 14" steel bar stock now too.
The debait can go on forever. If you like them great, it you dont like them great.
#33
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by gpracer1
Just because you dont understand it, dont bash it.
1. GM's CLB fix
2. The Tornado
3. Slick 50
4. Cross drilled rotors
NE1 care to help?
Have a good one,
Mike
#34
Drifting
I'm not sold on the idea, I just just don't see the physics of it. Kind of sounds like voodoo rather than science.
I've seen one person use them in 'real life' they had non-drill and non-slotted, and they cracked in less than a season. They were not impressed with the life span at all.
I've seen one person use them in 'real life' they had non-drill and non-slotted, and they cracked in less than a season. They were not impressed with the life span at all.
#35
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 24,652
Received 297 Likes
on
94 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by VetteDrmr
More things I don't understand:
1. GM's CLB fix
2. The Tornado
3. Slick 50
4. Cross drilled rotors
NE1 care to help?
Have a good one,
Mike
1. GM's CLB fix
2. The Tornado
3. Slick 50
4. Cross drilled rotors
NE1 care to help?
Have a good one,
Mike
5. Rocking seat
6. System Charging Fault
7. 2001 oil consumption (wait i understand that one )
#36
Race Director
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
But it some company wants to prove me wrong and GIVE me a set to test, I will wave my fee for product testing.