Miles in Michigan

I just got my new engine in from FFHP (LS2 402).

It's got ARP main studs, and a 4" crank. I know I need spacers for the windage tray, but I don't know the exact thickness (ie: how many washers), and I don't know the size nuts to use (M10x1.5?), or what to torque it to. Or if I need locktite or not.

I sent an email to FFHP, but haven't heard back yet. I'd really like to get the windage tray, pickup tube, oil pan, and rear cover on tonight, so I'll be ready for the clutch tomorrow when the parts come in. I suppose if nobody answers I'll just find nuts that fit, and add washers until the pan clears the crank. Torque can't be that critical, it's just holding the windage tray in place, nothing structural going on.

Z06ufgrad2002

I have no clue as to the size spacer you need of what size nut it is but, the manual says they are to be 18 lb ft.

chriswtx

Miles in Michigan

Turns out it was M10x1.25. I'll post back when I figure out how many washers, after I pick 'em up at the hardware store and test fit the windage tray.

<edit>The thread pitch was 1.25, NOT 1.00. Some asshat mixed up the nuts in the bins at ACR hardware. So I got one out of the 1.00 bin, test fit it on the car, and it worked. Went back to get 9 more, none of them fit. So now (after like 5 visits to 3 hardware stores), I have all M10x1.25 nuts.</edit>

Miles in Michigan

I wonder if I should torque them more, just because the allowable torque must be much more, given the thickness of the ARP stud vs. stock? I really don't know if a thicker bolt (but very fine pitch) *needs* more torque to keep from coming loose, or if larger bolts are usually just spec'd to a higher torque because they are used in an application that required the thicker bolt in the first place, and hence wanted more torque for that reason?

If that made sense.

ajg1915

I would drop "Road Rebel" (i.e. DR Phil) a PM for info on what you need, as he is local to you.