People with Vararams...just
07-11-2005, 10:09 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
People with Vararams...just
If you are concerned about the Vararam or K&N for that matter, letting too much dirt get by into your engine, then do as what dirt bikers and street riders did 30 years ago with their K&Ns & foam filtration. K&N makes special oil that is red color to spray lightly on their filters to catch even the finest dust particles and to prevent hydrolocking by preventing water from passing through the filters. I wonder why nobody ever posted this on any threads here..maybe I missed it? I spray my Vortex filter after everytime I clean it.
Last edited by Scubanme; 07-11-2005 at 10:53 PM.
07-11-2005, 10:15 PM
#2
I prefer PJ-1 oil myself but I am sure that the K&N oil works just fine too.
The PJ-1 super tacky is red also. It can be purchased at any motorcycle shop. It is sprayed only on the duct side of the filter and at arms length with short bursts. Also be sure to get it into and around the edges good. You don't need much
Then after a light to medium coat, you can put the filter in a couple of the supermarket plastic bags and work it into the foam. Works great.
There are a couple threads about this at the Z06.com forum as well as here.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 07-11-2005 at 10:23 PM.
07-11-2005, 10:50 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by EB20003
I prefer PJ-1 oil myself but I am sure that the K&N oil works just fine too.
The PJ-1 super tacky is red also. It can be purchased at any motorcycle shop. It is sprayed only on the duct side of the filter and at arms length with short bursts. Also be sure to get it into and around the edges good. You don't need much
Then after a light to medium coat, you can put the filter in a couple of the supermarket plastic bags and work it into the foam. Works great.
There are a couple threads about this at the Z06.com forum as well as here.
You be Da Man!
07-12-2005, 01:41 AM
#6
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I've heard a lot of talk here about foam VS K&N type filters lately. I use foam filters on my Motorcross bikes and I have a Vararam so I decided to do a little research. Keep in mind a dirt bike operates in much dirtier climent than a car and some modern race type MX bikes use titanium 5 valve heads and scan rev to 11,000 + RPM. I am very curious myself and would like to protect both investments. I am by all means not an airfilter expert, I was just doing some research and this is what I found at www.unifilter.com. what do you guys think ?
****Please no flaming****
Open cell industrial grade filter foam represents the latest advance in air filtration technology. This section describes how and why it works so well when compared to the other three types also in common use. An optimum air filtering system is very inexpensive insurance against untimely replacement of rings, valves, bearings, and fouled spark plugs. These items represent very significant maintenance costs. Additional benefits are provided by higher performance, better gas mileage, and lower emission products.
With an engine operating at the optimum air-fuel ratio of 15 or 16 to 1 (air volume to gasoline vapor volume), it normally means that 10,000 to 15,000 "gallons" of air are sucked into the cylinders for every gallon of liquid gasoline in the tank. The exact volume of air, of course, depends on the engine displacement, RPM, and miles per gallon. For example, a 2800cc engine turning 2600 RPM at 55 MPH got 26 miles per gallon, and used 23,000 gallons of air per gallon of gasoline in the tank. You can imagine what 23,000 gallons of air and dust going into your engine every half hour would do if you had no air filtration at all.
Paper Filtration
Pleated paper elements are used by more vehicles than any other type for these reasons:
1. They are the least expensive for the manufacturer to install as original equipment from the factory.
2. For the largest percentage of operating conditions (street and highway driving) they perform well enough to satisfy the owner/driver at minimal acceptable levels.
3. The elements are dry, easy to handle, and convenient to replace.
4. Since they are "throw away" items (cannot be cleaned for reuse), they represent a large and profitable part of the replacement market, while occupying our landfills.
Paper filters are a stacked matting of fibers creating a random weave approximately 1/2mm thick, and rely on the "screening" effect to stop dirt particles. Airflow per square inch is so poor that the paper must be pleated using many feet of material to make a filter. All dirt or dust particles must be caught on the surface or not at all. Each time a particle is caught, it stops up a hole. From the moment you start your engine, you have a rapidly decreasing air flow rate. Paper also has two other big drawbacks for off-road use. Any moisture reaching the element causes the fibers to swell, reducing airflow even more. Another is the possibility of rupture. Paper is not a very strong material, especially where it is creased to form each pleat. Intake manifold backfires, or cleaning attempts with compressed air, usually rupture the paper leaving the filter ineffective.
Pleated Gauze or Fabric Filtration
This is another screen type that is only 1mm thick. If the dirt is not stopped on the surface, it is not stopped at all. These filters are sold on the pretense that they maintain an oil curtain for the air to pass through, thereby catching all dirt particles. It is impossible to maintain an oil curtain. The oil soaks the threads of the gauze or cloth, but does not span the openings; otherwise, the air could not get through. The dirt particles that do hit the threads have a good chance of being caught; the others simply go through. The reason the filter does not look dirty on the inside is because the dirt went into the engine. You can easily demonstrate this fact yourself by coating the inside of your housing or carb throat with a thin layer of grease to trap some of the dirt not caught by the filter or you can place a foam filter inside the gauze element to prove the same thing.
The one advantage that this type of element has over paper is greatly reduced airflow restriction; however, poor filtration efficiency is the price you pay. When dirt builds up, filtering action improves, but now the airflow is poor like paper elements.
Open Cell Filter Foam
The development of this special foam represented a major advancement in air filtration technology. Foam air filters now combine great airflow capability, huge dust holding capacity, and very high filtration efficiency for extremely small particles.
Fully reticulated (open pore) foam is a honeycomb of tiny, interlocking cells of uniform size, which create an impossible journey for dirt particles since there are no straight-through passageways. Each passageway (16 to 25mm long) is like hundreds of very small centrifugal/oil bath filters connected one to another. In this way, foam traps and holds the particles throughout the entire volume of foam. This is why they are referred to as "full depth" filters in contrast to the paper or gauze elements, which are screens, or "surface type" filters. The cell strands stop the dirt, while the oil film holds the dirt like fly paper until removed for cleaning.
****Please no flaming****
Open cell industrial grade filter foam represents the latest advance in air filtration technology. This section describes how and why it works so well when compared to the other three types also in common use. An optimum air filtering system is very inexpensive insurance against untimely replacement of rings, valves, bearings, and fouled spark plugs. These items represent very significant maintenance costs. Additional benefits are provided by higher performance, better gas mileage, and lower emission products.
With an engine operating at the optimum air-fuel ratio of 15 or 16 to 1 (air volume to gasoline vapor volume), it normally means that 10,000 to 15,000 "gallons" of air are sucked into the cylinders for every gallon of liquid gasoline in the tank. The exact volume of air, of course, depends on the engine displacement, RPM, and miles per gallon. For example, a 2800cc engine turning 2600 RPM at 55 MPH got 26 miles per gallon, and used 23,000 gallons of air per gallon of gasoline in the tank. You can imagine what 23,000 gallons of air and dust going into your engine every half hour would do if you had no air filtration at all.
Paper Filtration
Pleated paper elements are used by more vehicles than any other type for these reasons:
1. They are the least expensive for the manufacturer to install as original equipment from the factory.
2. For the largest percentage of operating conditions (street and highway driving) they perform well enough to satisfy the owner/driver at minimal acceptable levels.
3. The elements are dry, easy to handle, and convenient to replace.
4. Since they are "throw away" items (cannot be cleaned for reuse), they represent a large and profitable part of the replacement market, while occupying our landfills.
Paper filters are a stacked matting of fibers creating a random weave approximately 1/2mm thick, and rely on the "screening" effect to stop dirt particles. Airflow per square inch is so poor that the paper must be pleated using many feet of material to make a filter. All dirt or dust particles must be caught on the surface or not at all. Each time a particle is caught, it stops up a hole. From the moment you start your engine, you have a rapidly decreasing air flow rate. Paper also has two other big drawbacks for off-road use. Any moisture reaching the element causes the fibers to swell, reducing airflow even more. Another is the possibility of rupture. Paper is not a very strong material, especially where it is creased to form each pleat. Intake manifold backfires, or cleaning attempts with compressed air, usually rupture the paper leaving the filter ineffective.
Pleated Gauze or Fabric Filtration
This is another screen type that is only 1mm thick. If the dirt is not stopped on the surface, it is not stopped at all. These filters are sold on the pretense that they maintain an oil curtain for the air to pass through, thereby catching all dirt particles. It is impossible to maintain an oil curtain. The oil soaks the threads of the gauze or cloth, but does not span the openings; otherwise, the air could not get through. The dirt particles that do hit the threads have a good chance of being caught; the others simply go through. The reason the filter does not look dirty on the inside is because the dirt went into the engine. You can easily demonstrate this fact yourself by coating the inside of your housing or carb throat with a thin layer of grease to trap some of the dirt not caught by the filter or you can place a foam filter inside the gauze element to prove the same thing.
The one advantage that this type of element has over paper is greatly reduced airflow restriction; however, poor filtration efficiency is the price you pay. When dirt builds up, filtering action improves, but now the airflow is poor like paper elements.
Open Cell Filter Foam
The development of this special foam represented a major advancement in air filtration technology. Foam air filters now combine great airflow capability, huge dust holding capacity, and very high filtration efficiency for extremely small particles.
Fully reticulated (open pore) foam is a honeycomb of tiny, interlocking cells of uniform size, which create an impossible journey for dirt particles since there are no straight-through passageways. Each passageway (16 to 25mm long) is like hundreds of very small centrifugal/oil bath filters connected one to another. In this way, foam traps and holds the particles throughout the entire volume of foam. This is why they are referred to as "full depth" filters in contrast to the paper or gauze elements, which are screens, or "surface type" filters. The cell strands stop the dirt, while the oil film holds the dirt like fly paper until removed for cleaning.
07-12-2005, 02:07 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by OOBlackconvert
I've heard a lot of talk here about foam VS K&N type filters lately. I use foam filters on my Motorcross bikes and I have a Vararam so I decided to do a little research. Keep in mind a dirt bike operates in much dirtier climent than a car and some modern race type MX bikes use titanium 5 valve heads and scan rev to 11,000 + RPM. I am very curious myself and would like to protect both investments. I am by all means not an airfilter expert, I was just doing some research and this is what I found at www.unifilter.com. what do you guys think ?
****Please no flaming****
Open cell industrial grade filter foam represents the latest advance in air filtration technology. This section describes how and why it works so well when compared to the other three types also in common use. An optimum air filtering system is very inexpensive insurance against untimely replacement of rings, valves, bearings, and fouled spark plugs. These items represent very significant maintenance costs. Additional benefits are provided by higher performance, better gas mileage, and lower emission products.
With an engine operating at the optimum air-fuel ratio of 15 or 16 to 1 (air volume to gasoline vapor volume), it normally means that 10,000 to 15,000 "gallons" of air are sucked into the cylinders for every gallon of liquid gasoline in the tank. The exact volume of air, of course, depends on the engine displacement, RPM, and miles per gallon. For example, a 2800cc engine turning 2600 RPM at 55 MPH got 26 miles per gallon, and used 23,000 gallons of air per gallon of gasoline in the tank. You can imagine what 23,000 gallons of air and dust going into your engine every half hour would do if you had no air filtration at all.
Paper Filtration
Pleated paper elements are used by more vehicles than any other type for these reasons:
1. They are the least expensive for the manufacturer to install as original equipment from the factory.
2. For the largest percentage of operating conditions (street and highway driving) they perform well enough to satisfy the owner/driver at minimal acceptable levels.
3. The elements are dry, easy to handle, and convenient to replace.
4. Since they are "throw away" items (cannot be cleaned for reuse), they represent a large and profitable part of the replacement market, while occupying our landfills.
Paper filters are a stacked matting of fibers creating a random weave approximately 1/2mm thick, and rely on the "screening" effect to stop dirt particles. Airflow per square inch is so poor that the paper must be pleated using many feet of material to make a filter. All dirt or dust particles must be caught on the surface or not at all. Each time a particle is caught, it stops up a hole. From the moment you start your engine, you have a rapidly decreasing air flow rate. Paper also has two other big drawbacks for off-road use. Any moisture reaching the element causes the fibers to swell, reducing airflow even more. Another is the possibility of rupture. Paper is not a very strong material, especially where it is creased to form each pleat. Intake manifold backfires, or cleaning attempts with compressed air, usually rupture the paper leaving the filter ineffective.
Pleated Gauze or Fabric Filtration
This is another screen type that is only 1mm thick. If the dirt is not stopped on the surface, it is not stopped at all. These filters are sold on the pretense that they maintain an oil curtain for the air to pass through, thereby catching all dirt particles. It is impossible to maintain an oil curtain. The oil soaks the threads of the gauze or cloth, but does not span the openings; otherwise, the air could not get through. The dirt particles that do hit the threads have a good chance of being caught; the others simply go through. The reason the filter does not look dirty on the inside is because the dirt went into the engine. You can easily demonstrate this fact yourself by coating the inside of your housing or carb throat with a thin layer of grease to trap some of the dirt not caught by the filter or you can place a foam filter inside the gauze element to prove the same thing.
The one advantage that this type of element has over paper is greatly reduced airflow restriction; however, poor filtration efficiency is the price you pay. When dirt builds up, filtering action improves, but now the airflow is poor like paper elements.
Open Cell Filter Foam
The development of this special foam represented a major advancement in air filtration technology. Foam air filters now combine great airflow capability, huge dust holding capacity, and very high filtration efficiency for extremely small particles.
Fully reticulated (open pore) foam is a honeycomb of tiny, interlocking cells of uniform size, which create an impossible journey for dirt particles since there are no straight-through passageways. Each passageway (16 to 25mm long) is like hundreds of very small centrifugal/oil bath filters connected one to another. In this way, foam traps and holds the particles throughout the entire volume of foam. This is why they are referred to as "full depth" filters in contrast to the paper or gauze elements, which are screens, or "surface type" filters. The cell strands stop the dirt, while the oil film holds the dirt like fly paper until removed for cleaning.
****Please no flaming****
Open cell industrial grade filter foam represents the latest advance in air filtration technology. This section describes how and why it works so well when compared to the other three types also in common use. An optimum air filtering system is very inexpensive insurance against untimely replacement of rings, valves, bearings, and fouled spark plugs. These items represent very significant maintenance costs. Additional benefits are provided by higher performance, better gas mileage, and lower emission products.
With an engine operating at the optimum air-fuel ratio of 15 or 16 to 1 (air volume to gasoline vapor volume), it normally means that 10,000 to 15,000 "gallons" of air are sucked into the cylinders for every gallon of liquid gasoline in the tank. The exact volume of air, of course, depends on the engine displacement, RPM, and miles per gallon. For example, a 2800cc engine turning 2600 RPM at 55 MPH got 26 miles per gallon, and used 23,000 gallons of air per gallon of gasoline in the tank. You can imagine what 23,000 gallons of air and dust going into your engine every half hour would do if you had no air filtration at all.
Paper Filtration
Pleated paper elements are used by more vehicles than any other type for these reasons:
1. They are the least expensive for the manufacturer to install as original equipment from the factory.
2. For the largest percentage of operating conditions (street and highway driving) they perform well enough to satisfy the owner/driver at minimal acceptable levels.
3. The elements are dry, easy to handle, and convenient to replace.
4. Since they are "throw away" items (cannot be cleaned for reuse), they represent a large and profitable part of the replacement market, while occupying our landfills.
Paper filters are a stacked matting of fibers creating a random weave approximately 1/2mm thick, and rely on the "screening" effect to stop dirt particles. Airflow per square inch is so poor that the paper must be pleated using many feet of material to make a filter. All dirt or dust particles must be caught on the surface or not at all. Each time a particle is caught, it stops up a hole. From the moment you start your engine, you have a rapidly decreasing air flow rate. Paper also has two other big drawbacks for off-road use. Any moisture reaching the element causes the fibers to swell, reducing airflow even more. Another is the possibility of rupture. Paper is not a very strong material, especially where it is creased to form each pleat. Intake manifold backfires, or cleaning attempts with compressed air, usually rupture the paper leaving the filter ineffective.
Pleated Gauze or Fabric Filtration
This is another screen type that is only 1mm thick. If the dirt is not stopped on the surface, it is not stopped at all. These filters are sold on the pretense that they maintain an oil curtain for the air to pass through, thereby catching all dirt particles. It is impossible to maintain an oil curtain. The oil soaks the threads of the gauze or cloth, but does not span the openings; otherwise, the air could not get through. The dirt particles that do hit the threads have a good chance of being caught; the others simply go through. The reason the filter does not look dirty on the inside is because the dirt went into the engine. You can easily demonstrate this fact yourself by coating the inside of your housing or carb throat with a thin layer of grease to trap some of the dirt not caught by the filter or you can place a foam filter inside the gauze element to prove the same thing.
The one advantage that this type of element has over paper is greatly reduced airflow restriction; however, poor filtration efficiency is the price you pay. When dirt builds up, filtering action improves, but now the airflow is poor like paper elements.
Open Cell Filter Foam
The development of this special foam represented a major advancement in air filtration technology. Foam air filters now combine great airflow capability, huge dust holding capacity, and very high filtration efficiency for extremely small particles.
Fully reticulated (open pore) foam is a honeycomb of tiny, interlocking cells of uniform size, which create an impossible journey for dirt particles since there are no straight-through passageways. Each passageway (16 to 25mm long) is like hundreds of very small centrifugal/oil bath filters connected one to another. In this way, foam traps and holds the particles throughout the entire volume of foam. This is why they are referred to as "full depth" filters in contrast to the paper or gauze elements, which are screens, or "surface type" filters. The cell strands stop the dirt, while the oil film holds the dirt like fly paper until removed for cleaning.
I am a proponent of K&Ns and foam elements because I have used both. I truly believe the foam element if oiled properly is superior, but its main drawback is you must frequently service it because the oiled foam seems to saturate sooner with very thick crustlike dirt. AS you stated, paper is much more convenient for the average person. But this does not mean I am saying the Vararam is superior to the paper element filters. I am say that between paper and foam filters both being left untreated with no oil, I feel the paper is much superior because of the porosity of foam. If both types of filters are treated, then I feel the foam is superior, especially where power is concerned.
This is just my opinion. I just started this thread because I wanted to say there are merits for both filters and depending on how you use each filter, either one can be a great choice.
07-12-2005, 02:10 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Monster231
ahhh, none of these filters even work with out the oil. You should clean and oil your filter with each oil change
07-12-2005, 02:11 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Monster231
ahhh, none of these filters even work with out the oil. You should clean and oil your filter with each oil change
OOblackconvert, I liked your write up. I have from the beginning of this mini controversy been saying the foam filter is excellent. On the vararam I like the fact with just two latches I can take it out and clean it and have a practically brand new filter in my car.
07-12-2005, 05:35 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by rarfinacial
after all the hype about the dirt with Vararam I removed myfilter to see the "dirt" and just like new, no dirt. filters work 100% 1. If the engine has enough 'suck' to pull dirt/dust particles through the filter they will not be sitting on the otherside of it so you can look at them as a rule. If a fluid (oil) is present then it may turn into a kind of mulch which will be visable, but fairly large (comparatively speaking) dry particles like fine sand will not just stick to the outer surface of the butterfly. They will enter the intake manifold via the TB. It is inside the engine that could pose the problem, not the rear face of the filter. Hence there may well be nothing to see.
2. If you have been using you car with the Vararam but the filter still looks like new, as you say "just like new, no dirt". I assume you are meaning the filter? Then I would be worried, if a filter is filtering the air it should be catching and retaining the dirt/dust particles. If it is like new then it must be letting the dust/dirt pass straight thru it. Thus not filtering the air very efficiently .
In the interests of fairness, I'm not claiming that the filter does not filter. But if this statement/claim is accurate I would be slightly concerned as to why it has no dirt on it.
Last edited by 300bhp/ton; 07-12-2005 at 09:36 AM.
07-12-2005, 06:55 PM
#13
Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
......
2. If you have been using you car with the Vararam but the filter still looks like new, as you say "just like new, no dirt". I assume you are meaning the filter? Then I would be worried, if a filter is filtering the air it should be catching and retaining the dirt/dust particles. If it is like new then it must be letting the dust/dirt pass straight thru it. Thus not filtering the air very efficiently .
In the interests of fairness, I'm not claiming that the filter does not filter. But if this statement/claim is accurate I would be slightly concerned as to why it has no dirt on it.
2. If you have been using you car with the Vararam but the filter still looks like new, as you say "just like new, no dirt". I assume you are meaning the filter? Then I would be worried, if a filter is filtering the air it should be catching and retaining the dirt/dust particles. If it is like new then it must be letting the dust/dirt pass straight thru it. Thus not filtering the air very efficiently .
In the interests of fairness, I'm not claiming that the filter does not filter. But if this statement/claim is accurate I would be slightly concerned as to why it has no dirt on it.
Why not take it a step further?
If the filter is saturated with dirt, then I would wonder just how much dirt got past it.
I mean after all, if I am looking at an absolutely filthy foam filter, then I am looking at the dirt that actually was "unfortunate enough to get "caught" by that good for nothing foam filter..
Who knows how much "lucky dirt" actually got past that pathetic foam filter.
Why wouldn't you worry just as much if you saw a dirty foam filter as you would if you were to see a clean one?
07-12-2005, 06:57 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by EB20003
Why not take it a step further?
If the filter is saturated with dirt, then I would wonder just how much dirt got past it.
I mean after all, if I am looking at an absolutely filthy foam filter, then I am looking at the dirt that actually was "unfortunate enough to get "caught" by that good for nothing foam filter..
Who knows how much "lucky dirt" actually got past that pathetic foam filter.
Why wouldn't you worry just as much if you saw a dirty foam filter as you would if you were to see a clean one?
If the filter is saturated with dirt, then I would wonder just how much dirt got past it.
I mean after all, if I am looking at an absolutely filthy foam filter, then I am looking at the dirt that actually was "unfortunate enough to get "caught" by that good for nothing foam filter..
Who knows how much "lucky dirt" actually got past that pathetic foam filter.
Why wouldn't you worry just as much if you saw a dirty foam filter as you would if you were to see a clean one?
07-12-2005, 07:25 PM
#15
Originally Posted by shurite44
Oh the humanity, why do we keep trying EB?
We both know the answer to that.
Because there is some newbie out there who is vulnerable to the
being spread by those who outright hate the fact that the Vararam outperforms their present intake systems.
07-12-2005, 08:51 PM
#16
Originally Posted by EB20003
We both know the answer to that.
Because there is some newbie out there who is vulnerable to the being spread by those who outright hate the fact that the Vararam outperforms their present intake systems.
Because there is some newbie out there who is vulnerable to the
being spread by those who outright hate the fact that the Vararam outperforms their present intake systems.What has been proven is countless of their foam filters coming apart when other well known brands are NOT.
If the vararam was so great then how come GM selected the Donaldson Blackwing as the stock filter for the 2006 Z06 ?
Which also makes this filter a GM approved filter that would not effect warranty.
Oiling a filter is more to trap water out and not dirt and most people over oil filter causing engine and A4 failures.
If someone has to buy a vararam, can the filter and buy a K&N then they might as well just keep the stock one and direct outside air to it and save a whole lot of money and cleaning time
07-12-2005, 09:06 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by EB20003
We both know the answer to that.
Because there is some newbie out there who is vulnerable to the being spread by those who outright hate the fact that the Vararam outperforms their present intake systems.
Because there is some newbie out there who is vulnerable to the
being spread by those who outright hate the fact that the Vararam outperforms their present intake systems. Come on up to Englishtown where several have told me their car actually slowed down when they installed the Varararararam.
Also Mr. EB, if you have checked last Sat results you would see I got one guy by .0007 and another guy won his round by .00011. Remember a few weeks ago when you corrected me?
You and Gary need to give it up. Most guys know BS when they hear it.
07-12-2005, 09:49 PM
#18
Race Director
Originally Posted by Scubanme
If you are concerned about the Vararam or K&N for that matter, letting too much dirt get by into your engine, then do as what dirt bikers and street riders did 30 years ago with their K&Ns & foam filtration. K&N makes special oil that is red color to spray lightly on their filters to catch even the finest dust particles and to prevent hydrolocking by preventing water from passing through the filters. I wonder why nobody ever posted this on any threads here..maybe I missed it? I spray my Vortex filter after everytime I clean it.
One Step ahead of you bro... first thing I did was spray my foam filter with my Red K&N oil...
07-12-2005, 10:15 PM
#19
Race Director
Originally Posted by Sandra Bigwoode
You're not one of those people who remove their Corvette's PCV and fit 'catch cans' to trap the excess oil that is sucked into the intake plenum from the crankcase, are you... ? =;-]
07-12-2005, 10:34 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Korreck
Come on up to Englishtown where several have told me their car actually slowed down when they installed the Varararararam.
Also Mr. EB, if you have checked last Sat results you would see I got one guy by .0007 and another guy won his round by .00011. Remember a few weeks ago when you corrected me?
You and Gary need to give it up. Most guys know BS when they hear it.
:
Originally Posted by Korreck
And many, if not most of our races are decided by a few thousandths of a second. After running consistantly Sunday I lost because I broke out by .025
Originally Posted by Korreck
And many, if not most of our races are decided by a few thousandths of a second. After running consistantly Sunday I lost because I broke out by .025
In your system of mathematics which number is larger 2.5 X ten to the negative 2..... or 7.0 X ten to the negative 4?
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 07-12-2005 at 10:46 PM.