gt-hunter

Ok, so basically I have the Euro Rear Lights which as you know have a separate RED brake light / AMBER turn signal. I recently purchased the RED TAIL light bulbs (part # 3156) and they work flawlessly (very bright, instant response...very distinctive).

I decided to start looking at replacing the Amber turn signal portion with the same LED bulb (part # 3157) but of course there is the matter of the low voltage consumption and the fast flashing. After speaking to a couple of board members I purchased a single bulb and a couple of different load equalizers to do some testing. The combination that worked is the one below:

BULB: 3157 - Amber www.autolumination.com


LOAD EQ: 6 OHM DELUXE ALUMINUM Load EQ www.autolumination.com



I removed the standard incandescent amber bulb and replaced it with the 3157 LED bulb. I tested and sure enought it blinks very fast. I then spliced the LOAD EQ into the wires using the quick-connects provided and noticed that it was still blinking fast. After playing with several combinations I discovered that the quick-connects hadn't completely penetrated the ground wire on the Load EQ. I stripped the wire a bit and pressed down a bit more and VOILA! This time the turn signal started blinking normally.

I tested using both turn signals (even though I know they are independently wired but I just wanted to make sure there were no side effects). I also tried with the Emergency 4-way hazards and it was still blinking at the normal rate. Since I have 4 ambers and I only replaced one to test. The difference was very noticeable. The LED was an instant on/off and the incandescent faded in and out as it blinked. Very cool.

WARNING: IF IT'S BLINKING NORMALLY...TAKE IT ON FAITH THAT THE LOAD EQ IS WORKING...DON'T TRY TO CHECK IT BY TOUCHING IT

If anyone ever wondered : "Does it really get that hot?"...The answer is YES!!

I will not be so careless next time...watch where your hands are around these things....

Anyway...this was just a test so now I will order three more bulbs and LOAD EQs and test ALL FOUR ambers at the same time. Hopefully I will get consistent results.

I will update this thread as I do the rest of the bulbs with any progress / setbacks.


Mike

jdmvette

Nice write up. Hope the rest work as good as the 1st.

pewterwest99

I think you have shown me where to change all of my bulbs to LED's at....
Thanks

gt-hunter

Glad it could help someone...I've heard some folks having issues changing out to LED so even though I got a good first test I won't cry "victory" just yet...at least until I get all of them working...

Yeah the LED effect is very nice but yet so subtle (since the LEDs are actually behind the stock lenses) that most people notice there is "something" different but they can't quite put their finger on it...that is, until they see theirs next to yours...then they say..."WOAH"...

I hope to have that same effect with the blinkers....

parts have been ordered and will do a follow up as soon as they arrive....

Mike

javamon

Nice write-up!

Couple of questions:

1. Where are you mounting the load equalizer to keep it from rattling and to make sure its heat doesn't do any damage.

2. Are you going to use an LED for the "third" brakelight? Does it require its own equalizer?

Thanks for the detailed info!

chuckster

That made me laugh pretty hard.. Caus I KNOW i'd touch it..

But it got me to thinking again.. I wanted to do this led mod to my front directionals.. They get too hot and melt the lenses.. (See my Directional Fix Post)
Anyway, I did not like the idea of splicing the resistor to EVERY bulb.

So I am thinking.. Is there a way to mod the actual flasher unit to just incorporate a single resistor inside it...???? Just a thought...

jdmvette

The 3rd brake light is already an LED.

FLL-Mike

GT
Nice write up. Looked at these bulbs before but did not want to start cutting wires w/o a diagram. Do you have any pics of your work??

Mike

gt-hunter

Ok, let me address some of these questions individually:


Since I was just testing to make sure it worked I didn't really mount it anywhere; however, once it worked I did start poking my hand inside to check for an appropriate mounting surface (That's the part where I touched it ). At this point I haven't decided where I'm going to mount the EQs. I'm thinking that if I can't find a good place I'll make a bracket that I can mount the EQ to and then I can mount that bracket onto the car. This should help dissipate the heat so even if it transfers onto the bracket it won't be as much as direct contact with the EQ. I will have to chose the material carefully as it will have to be something that won't transfer as much heat and something that doesn't melt with the direct heat of the EQ.

I will have more info on this as I do the actual mod.


Interesting idea. It certainly would be cleaner than using 1 LOAD EQ for each bulb. This might be worth looking into as it might require fewer EQs and less work (once the research is done). I might start looking at this as well.


Not yet. As this was just a test I was more concerned about getting it to work first. Once I get all the bulbs to work I will assemble it properly and start taking pictures of the install from start to finish. I'll post those for anyone that needs them.

As for cutting wires, you don't really have to. The EQs come with quick-connects that allow you to just splice the EQ leads right onto the blinker wire (just make sure they are making full contact or you may get a false negative on your test).

Thanks for the feedback guys...hopefully I will get my parts soon and get this to work. I'll also try to post video of the lights going on and off as well as the blinkers with another Vette that doesn't have this mod so you can really tell the difference.

Mike

chuckster

Dude, I found a universal electronic flasher to work with LEDS.... NO HEAT!!! and will work for the entire system assuming you replace all the bulbs front and back with LED..

(6104-00) Universal Flasher
The Universal Flasher is designed to replace the standard 2 and 3 prong flashers. This flasher is fully solid state and not load dependent. Black – chassis ground White – flash output Red – 12 volt input Remove the old 2 or 3 prong flasher. Connect the red wire to the factory plug that has 12V on it. Connect the Black to the factory plug that has ground on it (3 prong) or directly to chassis ground (2 prong) Connect the white wire to the left over factory pin.

Look for it here...

http://www.customdynamics.com/loadeq...0Turn%20Signal



Installation instructions...




Another model here too..

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/leds_plus.html

plaster

I'd like to see a vid of this if possible. Nice write up.

chuckster

Looks like this is even easier... According to this writeup you only need to go to an Autoparts store and get a full electronic flasher..

http://gm-trucks.com/IAR_ElectronicFlasher.shtml

Even on the www.superbrightleds.com site they refer to the flasher upgrade..

LED brake/tail lamps may not work with some thermal flasher units due to their extremely low current draw. These installations will require an electronic flasher unit, available at your auto parts store. Try to find flashers designed to work with LED bulbs, often HEAVY DUTY flashers will

I guess you will just lose the "Bulb out" indicator.. But with LEds that should be very rare...

pewterwest99

This is a must do mod for me. I look forward to the detailed write up and pics.

Man I can't wait

chuckster

And the Nightmare begins... C5 uses a non standard flasher setup...

Looks like Resistors are the easiest..

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=860333

gt-hunter

Yeah looks like we use a different type of flasher than what's out there...although that universal load equalizer might be a good way to go instead of individual EQs...


It's still a few days until I get my new bulbs and EQs so I'm going to do some research and see which is the best option...I'll try to keep everyone posted...

Thanks for all the feedback guys..this is all great info...

Mike

MyVetteDream

Great work GT!

You've solved the question of the decade as far as I'm concerned.

_Rudy_

Depending on how the wires run in the bus from the flasher to the tail lights, you could put one resistor (it would be a different value) in the bus going to the tail and not need separate ones (unless the wires run independently to the flasher from the tail, but that doesnt really make sense why they would). However, if you put the resistor in where it was in line with the front signals, it would decrease their intensity since the voltage drop would be split between the front bulbs and the resistor. I havent seen a schematic yet, so this could be wrong depending on how they wire the signals, just food for thought.

Are those LEDs sold at parts stores?

gt-hunter

HA!

Not quite yet...I'll give myself the Nobel Prize when they all work correctly and I don't melt anything

But thanks...the thought is appreciated.

Mike