tixin

I tried to do this today but was unsuccessful! I was able to move the intake forward about 1" and it was it! I revoved the air intake hose, the two small rubber hoses on the passenger side and the electrical plug near the front. What else should be removed? How do I pull the intake out? Up or forward? There was a thread with pics a few weeks ago but I cannot find it with the search! Please help!!!

vectorz

The existing DIY, and LS1howto.com's writeup was not detailed enough for most of us newbie mechanics. So I put together this step by step with pictures, for anyone who wants to use it. So it took me about 4 hours to remove the intake (which is 99% of the procedure). However, with the use of this DIY writeup, I think most people can get through it in less than an hour.

DISCLAIMER: I don't take any responsibility for any mistakes in this document, nor do I take responsibility for any damages to your vehicle by following this document. Use at your own risk.

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Oil Pressure Sensor Removal and Installation Procedures

STEP1
a) The three green circles in the following picture indicate two electrical plugs and one hose that need to be disconnected from the throttle body.
b) The red circles indicate the two screws that need to be opened up to remove the airbridge.


STEP2
a) The two green circles indicate a pin type rivet that can be removed by popping the top pin of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver. This will allow the airbridge to be completely removed.
b) The red circle indicates an electrical plug that should be disconnected also.


STEP3
a) Just a pic of the open throttle body, and another view of the hoses and plugs that need to be removed (green circles). Disconnect them if you haven't already.
b) The green ARROW points to the coolant hose that passes to the throttle body. This needs to be disconnected. Take a pair of pliers to the clamp on the hose that keeps it connected to the throttle body.


STEP4
a) Disconnect both plugs circled in green. The one on the right is easily removed by pressing down on the white ring and pulling the plug out.
b) The yellow arrow is a hose that *WAS* attached to the airbridge. Hopefully you've disconnected that from the airbridge already.


STEP5
a) Passenger side (right side) fuel injectors (red circles). Disconnect all 4 of these by pressing the metal spring and pull the injectors out.


STEP6
a) Driver's side (left side) fuel injectors (red circles). As seen in the picture, all 4 need to be disconnected.
b) The items circled in green ***SHOULD NOT*** be disconnected. These are areas that I accidentally disconnected while going through blindly.


STEP7
a) The hoses circled in green are the braided fuel lines. You have to use a GM fuel line removal tool (as seen in the picture pointed by the RED ARROW).
b) This step is *NOT NECESSARY*, however, I felt it makes it easier. When the fuel lines are disconnected, you will have a small amount of fuel spill so have a rag handy to catch it.

vectorz

STEP8
a) This picture shows what the two fuel lines (green circles) look like with the hoses disconnected (red circles).


STEP9
a) The 8 circled green bolts need to be removed with an 8mm socket wrench.
b) The two green arrows point to two hidden bolts that also need to be opened up (also 8mm), but using a standard wrench instead of a socket wrench. If you use a socket wrench, it will get stuck when you've opened the bolts up. These bolts cannot be lifted out of the intake at this time. Refer to the next step.


STEP10
a) The two green arrows point to those two hidden bolts. Once they've been opened up, you need to lift them up about 2 inches to give you enough clearance to pull on the intake. I used tape (as seen in the pics) to keep the bolts lifted, and free up my hands so that I could pull the intake.


STEP11
a) With the two bolts taped (lifted clearance), you should just pull the intake up a bit and pull it towards the front of the vette. Don't pull it all the way out because there is still a hose and map sensor plugs attached in the back. The pic shows what the intake will look like once you've pulled it forward a little bit.


STEP12
a) This picture was taken sideways to get a better view of the hose and plug that you have to disconnect. Both are circled in green.
b) After these two things have been disconnected, you can fully take out the entire intake with the throttle body attached.


STEP13
a) Here is a pic of the engine without the intake & throttle body. And opening the clearance to what you've been waiting for. The Oil Pressure Sensor is indicated by the green circle in the picture. I don't remember which socket size to use but it needs to be a deep socket. Pretty simple removal and installation, as it isn't in there extremely tight, you'll have plenty of clearance to put a socket wrench and deep socket in there. Just make sure you remove the electrical plug connector that goes to the Oil Pressure Sensor, before you try to remove it. Install the new one, and plug the electrical connector back in.
b) The item circled in red looks like a plastic straw. Just pay attention to this when you re-install the intake, there is a hose that it needs to reconnect to (hose is shown in the STEP14 picture).


STEP14
a) Here is a picture of the removed intake, and the hose mentioned in STEP13b is circled in green. When you re-install the intake, just make sure the red plastic stick (in red circle of picture on STEP13) is fitted back into this hose.
b) From here, after you've installed the new Oil Pressure Sensor, the re-installation of the intake manifold should be exactly in reverse order.


INSTALLATION COMPLETE

leaftye

This is a very nice writeup. Thank you!

tixin

Thanks, Vectorz! I see no reason this post should not be in the tech tips section!

Mods, this post is extremely helpful to beginner DIY! Please do not delete. Thanks.

vectorz

Thanks guys. I've even submitted it numerous times to the DIY section of the forum and escalated to moderators, but I think certain forum members w/ admin influence are snubbing me.

leaftye

Unless you're giving bad instructions, making insults, or trying to sell parts or services, I don't understand why this would be at risk of deletion.

tixin

I agree with Leaftye, but printed out this nicely written tech tip....just in case!!

leaftye

I saved a PDF copy...

leaftye

Tools:
8 mm socket for 3/8" drive
10 mm deep socket
hose clamp tool
fuel line tools
oil pressure sender socket (1-1/16" deep socket works too)

Torque values:
oil pressure sender: 15 ft-lbs
intake bolts: 44 in-lbs first pass, 89 in-lbs second pass

The hose clamp tool isn't really required, but it makes that back hose really easy to disconnect, and is a godsend for other tough to reach clamps. I think I got mine from Harbor Freight, and could NOT find it at Autozone or Kragen....but I lost mine during my move a couple weeks ago, so instead of disconnecting the hose from the end at the rear of the intake, I disconnected the end at the brake booster and removed the entire hose...much easier!

As you stated, removing the fuel lines isn't necessary, but if done, the right tools are needed to complete that task as well.

I have a Vararam with smooth air bridge to throttle body coupler, and I find it easier to unbolt the throttle body and remove everything from the throttle body to the top of the Vararam as one unit. Good time to clean the filter too!

thevelvetglove

as of 9:50 it took me 45 minutes to get the manifold of off the car. I'm stuck because I have the wrong 1 1/16 so socket. So far, 50 minutes to get this far. I let you know how long to put it all back togeather when I get the right socket. So, far I'd give VectorZ an A+++ for directions. I am a banker and normally don't attempt this type of repair

corvetterider

what else do i need to buy for this repair. do i need a new manifold gasket? dont want to make several trips to get parts.

dougbfresh

I would and I would also inspect the Knock Sensors (under the 2 black plugs at the bottom of the lifter valley). There are plugs in the bottom of those well that can leak oil in and mess up the knock sensors. Also, when you put the top plgs back in, put RTV all the way around to keep water out of the wells.

yostie05

You guys are really good. It took me a total of 9 hrs. to complete this job. I also upgraded to ls6 manifold and changed plugs/wires/pcv while in there. I had to extend the vacuum tube in the rear of the manifold to be able to reattach it.
I used vectorz's write-up as a guide and had help from Mike94ZLT1 to make sure I didn't miss anything. This was my 1st time under the hood and I really enjoyed it. Even tho it took so long I just look at the $$ saved and smile. Thanks to this forum

roymdudley

Hi,
Roy Dudley here. I've done this 4 separate times and have it down to about 40 minutes from hood up, to hood down. The secret is to remove the fuel lines and not try to jocket the manifold around. TIP: If you have a 98 C5 you'll need TWO fuel line disconnect tools -- 1/4" AND 3/8" (it has two sizes of line). AND, get the magnesium tools, not the cheap plastic ones. Finally, when you get the manifold off, go ahead and put a 6" extension of black 1/8"ID rubber hose on that little plug at the very back (use a little brass spud if you have to)...and your life will be a dream. Good luck.

Roy

Greg_E

As long as your in there, you might want to consider this. It will be much easier to replace, should it fail again.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ling-pics.html

2_99_c5s

Thanks Vector. I'm doing this tommorrow

Oldvetter

Yep, great job, I used these several years ago.

I kept a word document of this, (knock on wood) hope I do not need to use it again!

Grumpy

me thinks 5 years qualifies

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/foru...s-or-more.html