FiberglassFan

EDIT INSERT.....NO MORE BUMMER!!!!!!! Correct hub arrived, had to steal a plastic tube and wire off the original wheel for the horn, and grind out some ID of the upper and lower column covers, because the OD of the Momo hub is about .070 too much diameter. I had the choise of grinding or lathing the diameter of the hub smaller, shortening the hub so it does extend to the column covers, or just opening up the ID of the covers with a burr grinder. I opted for opening up the covers and leaving the metal hub alone. I REALLY love how well the Momo feels in the hands, and how much quicker the steering input is with the smaller diameter. The stock wheel REALLY SUCKS by comparison


Beautiful day today....took time this afternoon to do the install of the Momo steering wheel. In removing the lower underdash cover I discovered that the screw mounting tab under the instrument cowl, left side, had been broken off. Fortunatley the broken piece was still screwed to the lower panel it was supposed to hold up. Removed the airbag and started to pull the wheel with the new Snap-On puller and found that the hooks kept slipping out of the wheel. I eventually had to emply a huge puller and pull from the outside of the frame. Once removed, I discovered the back side where the proper puller 'pulls' from was all buggerd up and tapered so that the puller jaw could not get a firm purchase. I also noted that common electrical tape had been wrapped around the airbag wires at one place where they emerge from the 'clockspring'. NOT FACTORY!! It was becoming quite clear that when a dealer did the column lock work, a real ham fisted grunge did the work.

I put the broken tab back in place with some cyanoacrylic 'crazy' glue, just to hold it in location. Then I them mixed up some JB weld epoxy and saturated a patch of thin fiberglass cloth with it. The cloth was then placed over the break. Hopefully it will be strong enough tomorrow when it is cured.

Installed the 2 ohm resisitor dummy load on the airbag harness and it works great..no codes, no warnings!

Started to put the Momo hub in place and found they sent the wrong hub.....it is the correct center spline but the outer part if it is too deep so you cant even get it on the shart..the hub skirt runs into the turn and headlight wands....Its about an inch too deep!!!!!. No time to buzz around town to friends shop to lathe it off.... so now to make the car drivable I had to put the original wheel back on. So...its back in place, minus the plastic rear cover and the airbag front cover. Looks UGLY!!


Hopefully I can get the 'other' GM Momo hub fast, or have this too-long one cut back to fit. Almost an inch will have to be cut off the skirt.

Oh, yeah, and we were gonna take pictures. Mike got out the digital camera to document the project and wadda-ya-know......dead battery! So no pix....SORRY!!!

The saga continues later....I'll report back when we get the hub properly situated and get a pix of the installed wheel.

Wah

Jen,

What's the part number of the Momo hub that they sent you ? Do you know ? It should be one that ends with 2401. If I were you, I wouldn't try to mill this one. The spline may not fit onto the steering shaft spline and you won't be able to return it.

The 2401 skirt will need to be trimmed 1/4" if you don't want to trim the column covers. Some more clearance needs to be made if you want to keep the clock spring and you don't want to trim the clock spring. Fortunately, the second trimming can be done using a Dremel with a Tungsten bit, just make sure you have a few bits handy. The aluminum is soft but it may plug up the bit.

If you do the second trimming, the adaptor will be installed with the "top" arrow pointing downward. Rotate the adaptor against the shaft a few clicks to align one of the bolt holes with the slit on the face of the steering shaft. The rather scary thing is, the spline on the adaptor will only engage the steering shaft spline about 3/4"

Now, the big nut on the steering shaft is a little too thick since the engagement of the adaptor is only about 3/4". Part of the nut that provides locking will not even touch the steering shaft. If I were you, I would try something else. I found a thin jam nut coupled with a lock washer fit just fine and the lock washer will provide the locking mechanism. I didn't try two jam nuts since I don't think there is enough space on the shaft.

Let me know if you and Mike run into more problems.

Monks

[QUOTE=FiberglassFan]Installed the 2 ohm resisitor dummy load on the airbag harness and it works great..no codes, no warnings!

I am installing a MoMo wheel also and I havent heard of this,
Where do I install the resistor? I assume you can get them at
Radio Shack.

I am 1/2 way through my install.( I am trimming the lip off
the column covers)

Good Luck!

Wah

Depending whether you are keeping the clock spring or not, the resistor basically installs between the airbag electrical connector. This way when the airbag ECU checks for the airbag, the resistor will provide a correct reading. This was discussed in a few times in the past. FiberglassFan's old thread contains the info.

FiberglassFan

I removed the airbag connector on the wire that connects to the 'clockspring' assembly. cut the wires on it to about 2 inch length. These wires were soldered to the resistor, potted in thermoplastic dialectric compound and heat-shrink tubed for insulation and mechanical support. This short 'thing' was then just plugged back into the chassis side harness connector and it was good to go. Of course, this effectivly destroys the wires on the 'clockspring' module for re-installation at a later date , unless you are a VERY qualified soldering technician, qualified for life support systems, and could re-solder it back together. Yes, I did remove the 'clockspring' module from the column. It will be stored with the original wheel and explosive charge, I mean airbag, in case it ever needs to get put back in for sale of the car.

I did talk to my Momo dealer today...they called Momo distribution while was on hold and clarified the part I need...The one that was sent is correct GM for C4 Vettes and similar year Camaros. Aparently the C5 part was quietly announced at SEMA last time, but it was not put in the catalog...I presume because the Lawyers would have an field day over liability issues concerning the non-airbag aspects of them. [My assumptions] The correct piece is on order! If they were unable to come up with a sanitary solution, I had made up my mind to design a custom hub and adapt it to a Quick Disconnect race steering wheel fitting, and screw my beautiful Momo wheel to it, but it looks like they are going to come thru with the easy way out and save me the fun of a custom hub project. I have a great machiniest who makes a LOT of custom race car parts for several teams, everthing from sand rail racers, drag racers, and road racers. He would have enjoyed the project......heck I might even do it later on anyway, I like the idea of it.

I reinstalled all the dashboard panels today. My repair of the broken mounting ear/tab with fine fiberglass cloth and JB Weld epoxy worked like a charm! I was able to screw the lower panel in place and there was no hint of weakness.

Some great people read the forum....I even got a nice phone call this afternoon from another authorized Momo dealer from down in California that provided me with the correct part # and offered some install advice, including trim-to fit hints.... Fortunatly we have a 2 HP wide belt industrail sander-grinder that I can use to trim the correct hub for a perfect fit. We ended up talking for about an hour about car stuff and how it was that I came to be a car nut and so involved in the technical stuff. It goes all the way back to when I was 4 years old and taking rides in a D Jag race car, Geeze that was 48 or 49 years ago!

Once again, the corvetteforum shows itself to be a great community! I am really glad to be part of this place. I'll post more later when I have more to report on the saga....

Darkness

Just dont forget the pics or I'll have to stop by to look at it!

FiberglassFan

I'll post pix AND you can stop by sometime...Noticed your in the PDX area too! PM me for details!
Jennifer

Darkness

Sent you a PM

FiberglassFan

I have enhanced instructions on steering wheel removal, in preparation of aftermarket hub and wheel with no airbag, here....I just re-wrote the manual instructions with lots more detail the way I did it.

No need to disconnect the battery.
Make sure the wheels are straight ahead.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove the key from the ignition.

Shop manual sez to...
Remove the front floor kick-up panel to access the fuses.
Remove the SDM Fuse from the I/P fuse block.
I did not remove the fuse. [ once I got the airbag connector apart, it would totally disable the bag, so that was my first intent. NOT removing the fuse will not requre the computer to have to 'find itself' when you power up later. It won't even know anything happend]

Remove the left under dash sound insulator panel; the one under the steering wheel.To do this.....
Pop out the cover of the temp sensor, by the key,just the cover
Pop off the switch for the hatch and fog lamps, disconect the wires.Set aside the switch.
Undo 2 hex head screws at the 'panel underside near the edge close to the pedals, Undo one hex head screw at the left side switch location, and undo one torx screw at the temp sensor location. The panel will drop on the left, and jamb around the sensor, pull the center dash extension forward to release the lower panel that slides under it. Carefully remove the panel, Unclip the temp sensor wires from behind the sensor holder.You can leave the sensor housing snapped in place

Find the airbag connector just to the right of the steering shaft, deep under the dash.It is tywrapped to a cross brace.Its BRIGHT YELLOW, Only airbag connectors are YELLOW.
Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) ORANGE 'PIN, from the YELLOW airbag connector. This is a sliding device that keeps the YELLOW connector from accidently coming apart.
Then disconnect the YELLOW connector. This step is important, since the connector on the bag side has a shorting bar, that shorts the contacts the moment the connector halves are disconnected. Shorting the connector contacts prevents any chance of accidently blowing the bag.

Remove the 2 screws retaining the airbag to the steering wheel.These are Torx T-30 The bolts are recessed in the holes on the back of the steering wheel, the side toward the dash
Remove the airbag module from the steering wheel and hold it so no stress is on the wires.
Disconnect, unsnap, the connector position assurance (CPA) from the electrical connector on the airbag backside. Pull out the yellow connctor out from the airbag.
Disconnect the horn wiring harness from the steering column.
Disconnect the ground wire from the steering column.

Remove the airbag from the vehicle.

(For safety, place the bag on the floor with the bag facing upwards. Do not lay the bag on the floor with the bag facing down.

Remove the steering wheel nut and throw it away, a new one is required. I used an impact wrench, 21 MM socket
Set up the pulley with the jaws pulling the metal frame, not the plastic cover, and remove the steering wheel. Most universal pulley removers will work, be careful not to damage the wheel if you are going to reuse.

Remove 2 Philips head screws from the underside of the column shroud. remove the lower shroud, note the way it clips to the upper shroud shell at the back left side [towards the dash] , it can be difficult to disconnect. Additionally the column tllt handle will be a tough fit through the hole. Move the shrouud around until it pulls off over the handle.

Remove 1 male torx head screw from the right side of the upper shroud near the front, The screw goes straight up. You can use a 4MM hex socket.It will fit the torx splines. Lift the upper shroud from the column

Find a c-clip on the steering column holding the plastic 'hairspring' module on the column. This module is shaped like a squared up donut. Spread the c-clip with special c-clip expanding/spreading pliers and set aside. Now you can pull the donut shaped 'hairspring' module towards you and off the column. It will still be tethered to the car by its wire leading back under the dash on the left side of the column

Use a side cutter to clip tywraps holding wires to the brackets along the left side of the column. This allows you to pull that jacketed wire [leading from the yellow connector from back under the dash up to the donut shaped 'hairspring' module] free from the car along with the hairspring' module attached to it. Use new tywraps to re-attach remaining wires back to the same brackets.

As mentioned in an earlier post....
If you do NOT plan on re-installing the airbag at a later time.....
Cut off the YELLOW connector from the 'hairspring module' that went to the YELLOW chassis harness, and solder a 2 ohm 5 watt resisitor on the 2 wires. Insulate the solder joints. Plug this resistor/connector back into the YELLOW chassis harness connector and fit the ORANGE CPA back into place. If you DO plan on re-installing the airbag in the future, do not cut wires as just discussed. Instead, solder 3 or 4 inch stranded 18 G wires to the 2 ohm 5 watt resisitor and insulate the wires where soldered. Use ScotchLok instant splice connectors to attach the resisitor with wires to the 2 wires that lead to the YELLOW connector still in the chassis. These can be un-done and the resisitor removed when its time to re-install the airbag and all its wiring stuff.

FYI, the 'clockspring module' contains special wires that are loosly spiraled inside the donut shaped enclosure. These wires provide a solid permanent electrical connection between the airbag itself and the chassis harness, as the steering wheel is turned. For comparison, the horn uses a rotating sliding contact wiper system which is not as relaible, and so that kind of system is not used for the airbag, consdered a critical safety device that can not fail.

LEGAL STUFF...I am neither condoning or encouraging anyone to modify any aspect of any car that may affect engineered safety systems. Information is provided for general knowledge only. Information may contain omissions or errors, or not be applicable to your specific model or year. No libility is inferred or expressed, and specifically denied. Any safety equipment modification performed by anyone must be the sole responsibility of that person or their agent doing the modification. Safety equipment standards for street registered, street legal vehicles are different than those standards established by various sanctioning bodies involved in oversight of off road vehicle activites.

FiberglassFan

NO MORE BUMMER!!!!!!! Correct hub arrived, had to steal a plastic tube and wire off the original wheel for the horn, and grind out some ID of the upper and lower column covers, because the OD of the Momo hub is about .070 too much diameter. I had the choise of grinding or lathing the diameter of the hub smaller, shortening the hub so it does extend to the column covers, or just opening up the ID of the covers with a burr grinder. I opted for opening up the covers and leaving the metal hub alone. I REALLY love how well the Momo feels in the hands, and how much quicker the steering input is with the smaller diameter. The stock wheel REALLY SUCKS by comparison