Replaced Starter and Cleaned up Ignition contacts by key, STILL WON'T START!
06-05-2018, 10:06 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Replaced Starter and Cleaned up Ignition contacts by key, STILL WON'T START!
I Replaced Starter and Cleaned up Ignition contacts by key, STILL WON'T START! The security light is blinking. Car does not even try to start, it just goes silent when i try to turn it over and the security light blinks afterwards. What should I do? I dont have the remote, only the key, id really like to stay away from the dealership if i can. Car used to start with just the key only, and then it started getting buggy, as I do not use the car often and the battery would be low and i would start it with a low battery, so I assumed the starter was bad. It is now replaced as are the contacts inside the ignition cleaned as shown in Bill's famous thread. What should I attack next?
Car is a 2001 z06
Car is a 2001 z06
Last edited by Mikec7z; 06-05-2018 at 10:07 PM.
06-05-2018, 10:08 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
battery is new and charged
06-06-2018, 12:18 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
will do, thank you
06-06-2018, 07:55 AM
#4
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Security light should go out when the key is installed. Do you have a spare key??...if so, try that one...if that one starts the key you probably need to have another key made...if you are in the central NJ area I can program you a new key if that's what your codes and the diagnosis points to !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; 06-06-2018 at 10:30 AM.
06-06-2018, 01:26 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
the security light comes on AFTER i pull out the key, it blinks. When the key is in, and accessories are turned on, the security light does not seem to be on. While trying to start the car, it looks as tho the battery volt meter drops tremendously like it is trying to start the car, and everything else seems to be temporarily robbed of power while it is trying to be started. I hear the ticking in the electrical relays down by the passenger footwell. The battery is charged, so i dont mean the kind of ticking one hears when the battery is low, i mean the standard one or 2 clicks one is supposed to hear i believe. I checked those fuses that can be seen through, all seem to be fine, both in the footwell and in engine bay box. I put in the new bosch double long bolt starter. I checked fuses, so far, i see nothing out of the ordinary, unless one of the big gray ones is popped, not sure how to tell if those are good or bad?
in the beginning, many codes were on. After I cleared them all, without being able to start the car... 2 came back... and those 2 are... BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C
The codes that were all on in the beginning were.... 28-TCS C1222 H, 28-TCS C1226H, 28-TCS C1233 H C, 28-TCS C1236 H, 28-TCS C1248 H, 28-TCS C1254 H, 28-TCS C1283 H, 28-TCS C1288 H, 40-BCM B2587 H, 40-BCM B2592 H, 58-SDM U1000 H, 58-SDM U1016 H, 58-SDM U1040 H, 58-SDM U1096 H, AO-LDCM B2252 H, AO-LDCM B2282 H, AO-LDCM B2284 H, AO-LDCM B2262 H, AO-LDCM B2264 H, A1-RDCM B2283 H, A1-RDCM B2285 H, A1-RDCM U1064 H, A6-SCM B2605 H, BO-RFA U1000 H, BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C.
Are there any other auxilary fuses located out and about around the car, like one down by the starter for instance? My last starter I am 95% sure was bad, so possibly might have blown a fuse somewhere with it?
in the beginning, many codes were on. After I cleared them all, without being able to start the car... 2 came back... and those 2 are... BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C
The codes that were all on in the beginning were.... 28-TCS C1222 H, 28-TCS C1226H, 28-TCS C1233 H C, 28-TCS C1236 H, 28-TCS C1248 H, 28-TCS C1254 H, 28-TCS C1283 H, 28-TCS C1288 H, 40-BCM B2587 H, 40-BCM B2592 H, 58-SDM U1000 H, 58-SDM U1016 H, 58-SDM U1040 H, 58-SDM U1096 H, AO-LDCM B2252 H, AO-LDCM B2282 H, AO-LDCM B2284 H, AO-LDCM B2262 H, AO-LDCM B2264 H, A1-RDCM B2283 H, A1-RDCM B2285 H, A1-RDCM U1064 H, A6-SCM B2605 H, BO-RFA U1000 H, BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C.
Are there any other auxilary fuses located out and about around the car, like one down by the starter for instance? My last starter I am 95% sure was bad, so possibly might have blown a fuse somewhere with it?
06-06-2018, 01:27 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
how can i test my old starter? i tried hooking it to a jump box yesterday to see if it would spin, and nothing happened.
06-06-2018, 01:41 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i only have one key, and no fobs. If it is the key, i cant tell easily.
06-06-2018, 02:48 PM
#8
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the security light comes on AFTER i pull out the key, it blinks. When the key is in, and accessories are turned on, the security light does not seem to be on. While trying to start the car, it looks as tho the battery volt meter drops tremendously like it is trying to start the car, and everything else seems to be temporarily robbed of power while it is trying to be started. I hear the ticking in the electrical relays down by the passenger footwell. The battery is charged, so i dont mean the kind of ticking one hears when the battery is low, i mean the standard one or 2 clicks one is supposed to hear i believe. I checked those fuses that can be seen through, all seem to be fine, both in the footwell and in engine bay box. I put in the new bosch double long bolt starter. I checked fuses, so far, i see nothing out of the ordinary, unless one of the big gray ones is popped, not sure how to tell if those are good or bad?
in the beginning, many codes were on. After I cleared them all, without being able to start the car... 2 came back... and those 2 are... BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C
The codes that were all on in the beginning were.... 28-TCS C1222 H, 28-TCS C1226H, 28-TCS C1233 H C, 28-TCS C1236 H, 28-TCS C1248 H, 28-TCS C1254 H, 28-TCS C1283 H, 28-TCS C1288 H, 40-BCM B2587 H, 40-BCM B2592 H, 58-SDM U1000 H, 58-SDM U1016 H, 58-SDM U1040 H, 58-SDM U1096 H, AO-LDCM B2252 H, AO-LDCM B2282 H, AO-LDCM B2284 H, AO-LDCM B2262 H, AO-LDCM B2264 H, A1-RDCM B2283 H, A1-RDCM B2285 H, A1-RDCM U1064 H, A6-SCM B2605 H, BO-RFA U1000 H, BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C.
Are there any other auxilary fuses located out and about around the car, like one down by the starter for instance? My last starter I am 95% sure was bad, so possibly might have blown a fuse somewhere with it?
in the beginning, many codes were on. After I cleared them all, without being able to start the car... 2 came back... and those 2 are... BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C
The codes that were all on in the beginning were.... 28-TCS C1222 H, 28-TCS C1226H, 28-TCS C1233 H C, 28-TCS C1236 H, 28-TCS C1248 H, 28-TCS C1254 H, 28-TCS C1283 H, 28-TCS C1288 H, 40-BCM B2587 H, 40-BCM B2592 H, 58-SDM U1000 H, 58-SDM U1016 H, 58-SDM U1040 H, 58-SDM U1096 H, AO-LDCM B2252 H, AO-LDCM B2282 H, AO-LDCM B2284 H, AO-LDCM B2262 H, AO-LDCM B2264 H, A1-RDCM B2283 H, A1-RDCM B2285 H, A1-RDCM U1064 H, A6-SCM B2605 H, BO-RFA U1000 H, BO-RFA U1064 H, 28-TCS C1233 H C.
Are there any other auxilary fuses located out and about around the car, like one down by the starter for instance? My last starter I am 95% sure was bad, so possibly might have blown a fuse somewhere with it?
That's what should happen...key in security light OUT...first thing I'd check is to see if you have 12v at the "S" and Batt terminals of the starter WHILE CRANKING !!...if no good at the Batt terminal I'd do a voltage drop check on the battery cables...power and ground...If good it's time to get out your DVOM and start working your way back from the S terminal using the wiring diagram...if you've never done one I'll pass along a Youtube video...much quicker than spelling it all out here...also I'll pass along a video on no crank-no start by Paul Danner...the "Jedi Master" of auto diagnostics...hope it helps...you can find FREE wiring diagrams at bbbind.com...just fill out your name. etc...and you'll get access...I'll attach one here...as far as the 2 codes I have a higher end scan tool so I can read all the modules in the car so I don't have to pull them off the DIC.
Last edited by C5 Diag; 06-06-2018 at 03:18 PM.
06-06-2018, 03:00 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
will do, thanks for all your help
06-06-2018, 03:40 PM
#10
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You can just use a jumper wire between the Batt terminal of the starter at the S terminal...make sure you are in Park and E Brake is on....blah,blah, don't kill yourself !!...it's a little tough to get to it !!
06-06-2018, 03:47 PM
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06-06-2018, 03:51 PM
#12
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06-06-2018, 04:30 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
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Im confused which red and purple to jumper. There are several of each. Above the fuse box in the passenger footwell, there is a thicker red and purple wire banded together, coming in from above...
Im confused because first you say bypass the TDR... but then you go onto say that it bypasses clutch sensor etc...
so what red and purple wire should i jumper according to your diagram?
Im confused because first you say bypass the TDR... but then you go onto say that it bypasses clutch sensor etc...
so what red and purple wire should i jumper according to your diagram?
Last edited by Mikec7z; 06-06-2018 at 04:35 PM.
06-06-2018, 04:32 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
all z06 are manuals. No park. Im confused on what you mean also.
06-06-2018, 04:41 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
im confused also, because it seems as tho you are implying that jumpering 2 cables in the footwell is the secret to hotwiring any c5... perhaps this is the case, but it seems to me that chevy would make it a bit more tricky than red and purple and all their cars turn over. Not trying to be a smart butt, just trying to wrap my mind around this whole thing.
Do i still need to crank the key and have the key in the ignition? Or putting these 2 wires together is just going to cause the car to turn over no matter what?
Do i still need to crank the key and have the key in the ignition? Or putting these 2 wires together is just going to cause the car to turn over no matter what?
Last edited by Mikec7z; 06-06-2018 at 04:42 PM.
06-06-2018, 04:43 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i should note, i can pull the car with a rope, and jump start it from a rolling start, and it stays running.
06-06-2018, 04:52 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Make sure your battery terminals are tight.
I had a similar problem with my 01 a few weeks ago - worked fine one day, next day, turn key, nada. no lights, no ding, no nothing.
Jiggle the terminals around, I heard everything power up.
Get back in, turn key, nothing.
The bolts that screw into the battery terminal had stripped.
Replaced those, wire brushed the crud off the cables, and no more problems.
I had a similar problem with my 01 a few weeks ago - worked fine one day, next day, turn key, nada. no lights, no ding, no nothing.
Jiggle the terminals around, I heard everything power up.
Get back in, turn key, nothing.
The bolts that screw into the battery terminal had stripped.
Replaced those, wire brushed the crud off the cables, and no more problems.
Last edited by aj98; 06-06-2018 at 04:53 PM.
06-06-2018, 04:54 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
so, according to your diagram, a red main cable goes straight from the battery to the starter. Since I can get my car running by pulling it, would it be safe to say that attaching a new negative wire to the starter, and putting a switch on that wire, and connecting that wire back to the battery of the car... that should crank the starter... the same as pulling a car with a rope.
And if this does NOT work, then i know that the positive red wire from the battery to the starter, is bad or is not connecting properly.
Can one of these starters crank just by hooking a battery to the pos and neg ports with just jumper cables alone, or will that harm the starter because too much current?
And if this does NOT work, then i know that the positive red wire from the battery to the starter, is bad or is not connecting properly.
Can one of these starters crank just by hooking a battery to the pos and neg ports with just jumper cables alone, or will that harm the starter because too much current?
06-06-2018, 04:58 PM
#19
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Im confused which red and purple to jumper. There are several of each. Above the fuse box in the passenger footwell, there is a thicker red and purple wire banded together, coming in from above...
Im confused because first you say bypass the TDR... but then you go onto say that it bypasses clutch sensor etc...
so what red and purple wire should i jumper according to your diagram?
Im confused because first you say bypass the TDR... but then you go onto say that it bypasses clutch sensor etc...
so what red and purple wire should i jumper according to your diagram?
You said your security light goes out with the key in the ignition...correct ??...if it's out the little resistor in the key is good...there are 15 different keys available to purchase each with different resisors if you know the resistance value of YOUR chip...you then get a locksmith to cut the key and your done !!....the method in the video is a just a quickie fix...you DON'T have to be jumping any wires...this video was just how the GM VATS works !!
Key# Value (Ohms)
1 392
2 523
3 681
4 887
5 1130
6 1470
7 1870
8 2370
9 3010
10 3740
11 4750
12 6040
13 7500
14 9530
15 11800
06-06-2018, 05:03 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
will a newer key do a better job than the current one that shuts off the security light?
I guess i have a hard time believing that the key is the problem since the car stays running after one pulls it with a rope and another car or a quad. If the key was bad, wouldnt the car just shut right back off again?
I guess i have a hard time believing that the key is the problem since the car stays running after one pulls it with a rope and another car or a quad. If the key was bad, wouldnt the car just shut right back off again?