1fst99z

Heres what happened. car m6

I start the car up one day and I back it out of the driveway when it stalls on me. Then it won't start so I figured the battery was low on charge so I bump started it. But then every time I come to a stop the car wants to stall out on me, so I have to keep my foot on the gas a bit.

Over the next couple days I start it up just fine and it idles fine.

Now for some reason the car won't start at all. I have full power inside the car but when I depress the clutch fully and turn the key nothing happens. I can't hear the starter engaging, and I don't hear the fuel pump running. I thought that maybe my key was bad so I got a new one but it hasn't solved the problem. I was also thinking that the security wasn't allowing the car to start but there is no security light on when I go to start the car.

Is there a key relearn procedure or something like that?

Please someone give me some insight, I'm stumped now and I haven't been able to drive the car for a while , its killing me.

Bill Curlee

Please check the DIC for any DTC's that may be set. Write them down and post them here. Once you write them down, clear the codes that are set and try to start it again. See if any codes set after you try to start it Post those codes.

There are a number of componets that can cause a NO START condition.

My 98 had a simuliar issue and I solved it, but I want to start checking the basics first before I have you jumping through hoops checking things.


Bill

1fst99z

I checked the codes and they were all history. I cleared the codes once before and it didnt do anything. I can't remember off the top of my head what they are but I will post them shortly. But I do know that they do come back but as history only.

03LingenfelterC5

I had similar problems and the dealer had a memo stating that there was an issue with some OEM batteries at the internal connection where the post connects to the plate. Just enough contact to run the accessories, but not enough to deliver high amps. Trouble shoot by swapping out the battery.

BK

1fst99z

Thanks but I've got an optima red top in right now

1fst99z

codes are as follows

BCM h0502 RH DRL Relay Circuit

h2587 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A)

h2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)

tcs c1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction
CEBCM Internal Malfunction

Now what this all means, I'm not sure, hopefully someone knows whats going on. Like I said before these are all history codes with the exception of the traction control code, but if I erase them they will come back as history again?

1fst99z

Could this be a result of a bad ground, loose connection, bad ignition switch, bad bcm computer, bad clutch safety switch? I hope someone can give some advice.

wwashing

It still could be the battery. It can have enough juice to run all the accessories, but not enough to turn over the starter. I'd try charging the battery.

1fst99z

when the battery is dead or has low voltage doesn't the car at least make a clicking sound, also the bcm makes a crazy noise too , but I dont have any of these going on. I had the battery in the car with a portable jumper and the car wouldnt make any noises.

I checked the clutch safety switch and its ok, I pulled all fuses bcm related and nothing changed. I did however find one relay not all the way in, when I fixed that I no longer got any codes.

So right now I have no codes, the column is not locked but the car refuses to even crank. Could this be a vats problem? Does anyone know how to bypass it to check it out?

Bill Curlee

Here is what you need to do. Remove the passengers foot well toe board. Just above the BCM on the fire wall will be a couple of relays. One of them is your Theft Deterrent relay. If the starting circuit isnt getting all of the inputs (security, safety and power) the relay will not pick up and apply 12 VDC to the starter solonoid. You can Identify the relay because it will have 4 wires ( two heavy guage wires Red and Purple and one yellow wire and a yellow/black stripe wire.
If you remove the relay and jump the red and purple wires together it should cause the starter to enguage and turn over the engine. ****WARNING**** MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR, IN PARK ECT WITH THE PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!!

If you have a manual trans,,, the car will move if it is in any gear!!

The yellow and yellow/black wires are the control signal to the relay

This will prove the starter is good. If you turn the key to the run position and jump the purple wires the engine will/should start and run.

If you prove this circuit good or bad, repost and we can go from there!

I found my Theft Deterrent Relay full of condensation and the contacts inside the relay were corroded off!

Here are some of the componets in the circuit that should be checked:

-Instrument panel Electrical Ctr, FUSE#48 (60 amp fuse) IGN-2
-Instrument panel Electrical Ctr, FUSE#50 (60 amp fuse) Starter
-Instrument panel Electrical Ctr, FUSE#14 (10 amp fuse) IGN- CRK
- Clutch OR Netural safety switch

The BCM monitors the Security circuit and uses the resistor pelet in the key to enable the BCM Theft Deterrent Relay and completes the circuit and allows the BCM to apply power to the relay.

Please let me know if you have ANY questions!

\Bill C

1fst99z

Thanks a lot Bill, I really appreciate the help. I found the theft relay today and I inspected it for damage/ corrosion but it was fine. Tomorrow I will definitely jump it out. Is there a way that I can jump out the bcm?

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee]Here is what you need to do. Remove the passengers foot well toe board. Just above the BCM on the fire wall will be a couple of relays. One of them is your Theft Deterrent relay.