StratTone

Just corious to see how many people just cut there stock MAF.

GTC

There are a few here that have done it. There is a long debate as to whether it actually helps or hurts. If the search function were available, you could read some of the history. From what I've gathered about these discussions, if you cut it out, it slightly changes the airflow, which changes the reading on the MAF wire and causes you to run a little bit leaner. This helped '97-'98 C5s where the stock tune was a little bit rich. In short, if you cut it out, you will need to do some tuning to take maximum advantage of it.

Nukecop

took mine out, 98 vert, seems to be a difference.

StratTone

Mine is a 99' I'm thinking about taking it out. I guess if it pings I'll just run a colder plug? Can't you buy something to remove it instead or cutting it out?

Ron Price

Took the one in my 99 out. No problems, no codes. I couldn't tell you if it made any gains since I did it the same time I put my Vortex Air Ram intake. Together, of course, they did make a difference.

raidersfan

removed mine from my 97 with an exacto knife. Hard to say if it made a difference being that I did this when I installed my Vararm.

sweetcharity

This, like the throttle body bypass is one mmod that is not worth the time or effort. Just leave it. If you gain 1-3 hp it is something you could never feel or that will equate into any better et's, 0-60 etc...

arkansascorvette

If you remove the air straightner as the Z06's have then you must run the Z06 MAF program for this to be beneficial. LS1 and Z06 MAF programs are different due to this fact.

SR-71

Mines gone, no ill effects. Little things add up.

yellow01

I have not removed mine, but will share some history as I've seen alot of it.

As the original replier said, there are many mixed reports. Many say no issues, others say they experience surging.

From what I have gathered over the years, the surging occurs on with certain aftermarket intakes and a removed screen. Mostly the ones reported as having surging are those with filters that are exposed to open air but are not enclosed (such as the blackwing with a cut radiator shroud).

I'm in no way trying to start an aftermarket intake discussion, just sharing some of the history I've heard on this forum over the last few years.

I'm with the poster above - for what you gain, it simply isn't worth taking it out. JMHO.

2KVetteMan

I removed my waffle on my 2000 and put a Vortex Ram Air system. 15,000 miles later my MAF went bad. I kept getting a check engine light with a P$$$ code.

I thought it could not be the MAF. When I would WOT, my car would bog down and run like poop after that for awhile. So I plunged for a new MAF. No more codes and at WOT it runs just fine. I kept the vortex and it is all good now.

I don't know if removing the screen was the problem that caused the MAF to go bad over time or that the MAF just went bad period. Just my experience. I would not advice in removing it. No gains from it from my side, just lost in the wallet side

BlueDragon

Removed mine about 80K miles ago added the early halltech snorkle and MAF ends at the same time. I also did some other mods such as cutting out the excess support plastic. It did just what I wanted it to do. It leaned the car out just a bit. (It is a 98 A4) I have all the bolt ons, LG long tubes TB bypass, Z06 intake etc. Heads and cam are stock.

Many need to realize you can damage the MAF quite easily. Do not touch the little resistor wires with your hands or anything else.
They are extremely fragile. You don't even need to break them just bending them will wreck the calibration. If you don't know what you are doing find someone that does and has had success. I have found that most (not all) who have experienced major trouble have damaged the resistor wires in some fashion These wires need to be exactly as they are installed to work correctly.

As with all devices they are made to operate within a tolerance. If the MAF is at the low end of the tolerance range from manufacture, it could drop you out of the range and fail (Crap shoot). A good way to tell is if you are running rich before the mod, than I think you are safe. If you are not running rich, than I would not do it.

It is a tricky one and I think that is why there is so much discussion on if it helps or not. Made a lot of difference for me, but that was with the complete install of the Halltech system (minus the Z06 intake that came later.)

One thing I did notice is for those running the oil impregnated filters. over time and also due to over oiling, oil residue from the filter will build up on the MAF wires and will cause some minor degrading over time and cause it to go slightly lean It insulates the resistors keeping them cooler making the MAF think you are moving more air. I just use a little brake clean to clean them, but again very very carefully.

I use the HP tuner SW to recalibrate.

99SilverC5Coupe

You can buy replacement ends for the MAF housing, then you will still have the screened piece if the MAF ends create a problem... you can reinstall...

C5 Frederik

Very interesting. Could this lead to pinging? ´98 coupe A4 with blackwing here.

Frederik

phils C5 vette

Im sure it can help with air flow, but really how much. I left mine in when I had the car tuned. Ive heard more bad info on removing it, than good info. If your going to remove it and have the car tuned, I think your better off then just removing it.

Gordy M

When the 02 Z06 first came out, our local (Detroit) club was fortunate to have a presentation from one of the engine development engineers. He mentioned they could get almost 2 hp from removing the screen but HAD to change the PCM program to avoid going lean/surging on decel. Acording to him it would amount to about 1 hp on a stock C5. Without tuning, not worth the problem, unless you have a monster engine and tuning, not worth the problem. Pre Z06 75mm MAF good for 450-475 RWHP, 85mm good for 550-575 RWHP with proper tuning.

vetteamerica

On my 97 I also removed the screen, added MAF ends and removed all the excess plastic I could! Now it Looks just like a Granatelli but with GM electronics and the car runs great!

But its true be VERY careful near those resistors!!

JoshVette

I removed mine quite a while back and have had no problems yet, but have not done any mods yet either. I don't notice more power, just quicker response.

Where can I get one of these "ends" that goes over the MAF?? Is it just a better more open waffle screen then the original??

I'm about to do vararam, should I get a new, better screen first and then vararam or will I have problems with the screen out and vararam in?

BlueDragon

YES it can. Especially in open loop WOT. It depends on how lean the car was and where it winds up after the Mod. For example before the tune and after the mod the car ran perfectly in closed loop. No KRs (ping, Knock retard) was detected no matter how hard I ran it as long as it stayed in closed loop. As soon as I went to WOT and the RPMs went above 4550 I would pick up random KRs (not real bad .5 to 4). So this along with the wide band 02 sensors and tuner software that I was going a little too lean at the top. I believe that this would be normal for those of us running the additional mods of Z06 intake, LT headers and open systems. Basically you have increased the effeciency of the engine as it's ability to move air in and out, and now you have to make some changes to the amount of fuel.

With all my mods, I show somewhere in the area of 380 - 385 RWHP (I did not list all my mods here)

Also higher outside air temp can cause KR to become worse or better. The equation for causes of KR can be complex. Air Temp, Fuel ratio, Air volume, Compression, closed loop vers open loop. coolant temp, timing, and I am sure there are more. such as carbon build up, dirty MAF etc.

Oh, just knocking out the screen sounds so simple, but one has to be aware of just what they want to accomplish what it affects and how it will affect the overall operation.

Just remember
No matter how simple or how easy a task, a fool with a tool is above all still a FOOL!!
A fool with a tool

StratTone

I just found some info on the screen. Check this out.



"Starting with the air cleaner, the size of the opening for air entry was increased. This sounds simple, but a lot of research was needed to increase air entry but also keep out water on rainy days. The next improvement came by removing the air straightener screen from the mass air flow sensor. The screen is needed in many airflow sensors to prevent turbulence in the airflow, which would cause the sensor to send false readings to the engine's computer. On the Corvette, the air intake ducting from the air cleaner to the intake manifold was already straight, so the straightener screen in the airflow sensor was not needed. Less restriction means more airflow."

I found it here.


http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/at_010717.htm