kp

I threw up a quick web page with some pics and info ( http://personalpages.tds.net/~kpevin/ ). I am very pleased with this kit, response time is pretty fast and it is a great tool for someone who doesnt feel like hitting a dyno with a wideband everytime they change something or, for people like me, that have no dynos with a wideband local.

I think the new version of this kit thats coming out will have a simulator so you can just screw the wideband sensor into the stock O2 bung and get a narrowband signal to the computer so you wont have to weld a bung in like I did.

Anyhow, thought there might be some interest in this..


[Modified by kp, 4:37 PM 9/21/2002]

chuckster

Can you use the bung that is normally occupied by the rear o2? I have no CATS..

kp

You can use the rear O2 bungs if your are not running cats, I didnt like the the way the car sounded without the cats so I use them. This sensor wont work after cats so if you use cats it has to be mounted before them.

C5Noir

Congrats. That is totally kick butt. How much did all the parts cost?

kp

Total for the parts/shipping for everything (WB unit, display unit, housing, O2 connector) was 287.00 (over 1/2 of that is for the sensor itself). The only thing the kits did not come with was the cable from the O2 to the unit, I think the 2 rolls of wire cost me like 8.00 from radio shack.

Another alternative if you dont want to build a kit is the FJO units, http://www.fjoinc.com , but they are kinda pricey. They do have an rpm input that uses an optional inductive pickup though. I was looking to buy the FJO at first but total with display and palm connection kit was around 800.00 from US vendors. They both use the same sensor, matter of fact I bought my sensor from FJO.

AllCammedUp

Congrats on your ingenuity and your setup! This is killer! Can the WBO2 units report data back to the PCM correctly? In other words, can the wide-band work in place of the stockers and the PCM not flake out?

How long until the 'emulation' bung comes out? Does the kit you mention come from FJO, or just the sensor and the bung?

Last but not least, can we get some part #'s? Thanks! :cheers:

AllCammedUp

Sorry about the kit question. I should have followed your link instead of typing like a mad-man first. I got kind of excited! ;)

Sorry.

kp

The wideband data wouldnt do any good for a stock PCM, the simulated narrowband signal would work fine to 'pass through' for the stock PCM. Aftermarket fuel systems like a FAST, DFI etc use a wideband output.

The emulater will be incorporated into the new board that tech-edge will be selling from what I understand, one can also be made for about 8.00 in parts as well. The O2's on these headers are not easy to change so I went with adding a bung to the cats, if I pull the cats I still can use the wideband sensor in the rear O2 position. Right now it will take me about 5 minutes to remove the whole mess which keeps it kind of portable.

I'll only use the wideband to tune it and then pull it off until I change something and need it again, plus let a few friends borrow it in the meantime I'm sure :cheers:

C5Noir

Where did you get the bung to install into the cat? Do you have them on both sides? BTW, if I bought all the parts could you do the soldering for me? Or at least give tell me of a good soldering iron to use. I can solder, somewhat ;)

kp

I actually got the bungs by mistake, I ordered plugs and they sent the bungs instead - They were on a K&N card but I dont have the part number handy. I was going to use the rear O2 bungs but when I pulled the cats off and ran the straight pipes I couldnt take the noise. I got them from a vendor that doesnt pay to play here, they sell a very popular 224 cam though..

I just used the drivers side since on all the LS1 cars I ever had the left was always a bit leaner then the right - it would be easy enough to put a bung in the other converter and swap then to see for sure but i'm not that worried in a n/a application. Probably the best way yo do it would be with no cats and putting the sensor in the middle of the x-pipe.

I dont keep things very long, I may be selling this and get the newer kit when it comes out. The display is harder to build then the WB unit itself, plus the display needs to be calibrated, you need 3 volts and a pot + a decent voltmeter. Its fairly easy to build but I have a lot of years of electronics repair/design experience (my 'other' hobby is ham radio and I have built quite a bit of my own equipment) so for me it was very easy. They also sell the units pre-built/calibrated for 270.00 including the cable minus the sensor which is a fair deal - the sensor right now is ~150.00.

To me the major value is building it yourself though, you would be around 440.00 with the sensor pre-built which is still 300.00 cheaper then the FJO with an LED display but the FJO has RPM logging capabilities - although to use it would cost another 200.00.

Heck you are close enough to come down to knoxville and borrow the thing :)

heartless

Now if they only offered a GP...:)

geekracer

That's :cool: But how fast is the sampling rate?

kp

87 13.40
88 12.70
89 12.80
90 12.80
91 12.80
92 12.80
93 12.70
94 12.80
95 12.80
96 12.70
97 12.80
98 12.70
99 12.70
100 12.50
101 12.80
102 12.70
103 12.70
104 12.60
105 12.70
106 12.50
107 12.50
108 12.70
109 12.80
110 12.80
111 12.80
112 12.80
113 12.70
114 12.70
115 12.70
116 12.70
117 12.70
118 12.60
119 12.60
120 12.60
121 12.60
122 12.60
123 12.50
124 12.50
125 12.50
126 12.50
127 12.50
128 12.50
129 19.00

Thats 9 seconds on the dyno WOT, 40 samples in 9 seconds = ~4.5 samples a second which should be OK for most apps. From what I understand the response time is dictated by the sensor, I'm sure different software can sample faster. I use the palm version. Since motec and others use the same sensor for their wideband meters I assume its response time is fast enough -exactly what it is I dont know.

C5Noir

If you ever sell this, let me know ;)

chuckster

Hmmm, I have an electronics background and can solder quite proficiently ;)
Maybe I build the kit for you...Then tune my car and send it to you.... :D

chuckster

DOes this have to be used on a Dyno to of any use? Or can I do a few wot runs and tune from there?

kp

I used it on the street with logging (I would run the car in 2nd from 3500-6000rpm) to get my initial numbers. On the dyno the next day it was almost identical, maybe just a bit (0.1) richer but the graph looks the same.

It saved me from fooling around with ls1edit on the dyno by just making a few blasts the day before and messing with the PE vs rpm table. I was able to strap the car down, make four decent pulls and go :)

I posted the log from the wideband here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=392672 those were done on the street.

chuckster

So in other words I can put the $75 (for 3 Dyno runs) toward the purchase of this Wideband? :smash:

Sweet!

kp

Thats the whole idea :) I just dynod to see what I gained/lost from leaning the car and the new converter. I have enough confidence in this to tune a blower car, matter of fact its being shipped to chicago next week so a friend of mine can use it to tune his supercharged LS1 on the street, he uses the dragstrip for his dyno :cheers:

QuickSilver2002

I built this same unit and have been quite happy with it also.

I would say that it can be done by the average technical guy without an electronics background. If you have trouble programming your VCR, just buy an assembled unit. You have to take your time, and I think you would make a mistake if you tried to do it all in one sitting. I worked on mine for about 1hr a night and it took me about 5 days.