Is there anything to gain with HP Tuners and a Wideband on a stock z06. Is there room to play with timing and fuel mixtures to make any measurable hp/tq difference?
Absolutely there is--not a whole lot but I would say on a stk set-up you can gain 15-20 RWHP---I have EFILIVE-- most z06's have a stk AFR in the 11.2 range--far cry from optimum 12.9 and the the stk timing at WOT is around 19*---optimum around 24-28 There are other things to adjust as well like fan settings ,PE delays,PE TPS point,COT disable,IAT & ECT rates, to name a few that give better performance.
Absolutely there is--not a whole lot but I would say on a stk set-up you can gain 15-20 RWHP---I have EFILIVE-- most z06's have a stk AFR in the 11.2 range--far cry from optimum 12.9 and the the stk timing at WOT is around 19*---optimum around 24-28 There are other things to adjust as well like fan settings ,PE delays,PE TPS point,COT disable,IAT & ECT rates, to name a few that give better performance.
thanks for the great info!
is there a knock sensor stock on these cars?
nice one for each side im assuming. hope this isnt a dumb question but, if I were to install a wideband sensor on the car where would it go, is there anywhere where the exhausts meet stock (h pipe or x pipe im assuming)? Im used to single exhaust
Last edited by distinctdev; 02-20-2007 at 11:49 PM.
nice one for each side im assuming. hope this isnt a dumb question but, if I were to install a wideband sensor on the car where would it go, is there anywhere where the exhausts meet stock (h pipe or x pipe im assuming)? Im used to single exhaust
Hi----the knock sensors are front to back--and they are underneath the manifold and then underneath the valley cover too---
As far as the wide band sensor you want it BEFORE the cats and in the collector pipe.Not a single primary pipe---Mine is in the the pipe after it turns and runs parallel to the road----Also it is best to put it pointing as close to 12:00 as possible so not to have water collect in it to ruin it--On mine it would not fit anywhere pre-cats at 12:00 so I have it about 8:00. ---anything is better than directly on the bottom
Hi----the knock sensors are front to back--and they are underneath the manifold and then underneath the valley cover too---
As far as the wide band sensor you want it BEFORE the cats and in the collector pipe.Not a single primary pipe---Mine is in the the pipe after it turns and runs parallel to the road----Also it is best to put it pointing as close to 12:00 as possible so not to have water collect in it to ruin it--On mine it would not fit anywhere pre-cats at 12:00 so I have it about 8:00. ---anything is better than directly on the bottom
ok, so ill need to have an o2 bung welded in on the collector. Thanks
The engine runs slightly leaner on the driver's bank. If the w/b is going to be used only for tuning, you can install it where the existing w/b is mounted. If you're interested in running the w/b full time, most have a narrow band output to feed the PCM, so you can still use the existing mount without having to weld in an additional bung.
__________________
Best regards,
Bill
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
2003 Quicksilver roadster , 1SB, F55, QF5, MN6, Z06 Ti catback, 2 cat H-pipe & air lid, Euro red/amber tails, Vette Net, and HP Tuners s/w - available for free to anyone in Calgary
ok, so ill need to have an o2 bung welded in on the collector. Thanks
Not necessarily. Welding in a new bung is the preferred method, but most widebands will operate as a narrowband also.
Using it for the narrowband is the less preferred method because wideband O2s have a reputation for not lasting very long, and when it goes, you could be stranded. If you have a separate narrowband, its no big deal if the wideband goes out.
I am using mine as a narrowband (this is experimental to see how it goes), because from what I have read the O2 sensor can actually last longer this way. This is because it is in use all the time and not used off and on just when you are scanning. I think this off and on usage is hard on the sensor and it is a fact that leaving one in the exhaust without using it will shorten its life. The best thing to do is either leave it on all the time or remove it from the exhaust whenever it's not being used (pain in the arse).
I borrowed this from the internet somewhere:
WARNINGS!
* Pump Cell sensors (like the LSU) should not be exposed to an exhaust stream and left unheated. The internal diffusion chamber will readily clog with carbon deposits that would be "burnt off" in normal operation.
* If your wideband unit is disconnected for any length of time (> 10 minutes), you should also remove the sensor and replace the nut in the bung.
* Sensors should be placed so they are not overheated (gas temp not above 750 °C, nor cooled beyond the ability of the heater to maintain their working temperature (~10 Watts).
* All pump cell wideband sensors are pressure sensitive. They should not be placed where the working gas pressure is much above or below atmospheric pressure, otherwise different calibration curves must be used for best accuracy.
Not necessarily. Welding in a new bung is the preferred method, but most widebands will operate as a narrowband also.
Using it for the narrowband is the less preferred method because wideband O2s have a reputation for not lasting very long, and when it goes, you could be stranded. If you have a separate narrowband, its no big deal if the wideband goes out.
I am using mine as a narrowband (this is experimental to see how it goes), because from what I have read the O2 sensor can actually last longer this way. This is because it is in use all the time and not used off and on just when you are scanning. I think this off and on usage is hard on the sensor and it is a fact that leaving one in the exhaust without using it will shorten its life. The best thing to do is either leave it on all the time or remove it from the exhaust whenever it's not being used (pain in the arse).
I borrowed this from the internet somewhere:
WARNINGS!
* Pump Cell sensors (like the LSU) should not be exposed to an exhaust stream and left unheated. The internal diffusion chamber will readily clog with carbon deposits that would be "burnt off" in normal operation.
* If your wideband unit is disconnected for any length of time (> 10 minutes), you should also remove the sensor and replace the nut in the bung.
* Sensors should be placed so they are not overheated (gas temp not above 750 °C, nor cooled beyond the ability of the heater to maintain their working temperature (~10 Watts).
* All pump cell wideband sensors are pressure sensitive. They should not be placed where the working gas pressure is much above or below atmospheric pressure, otherwise different calibration curves must be used for best accuracy.
Im pretty sure my aem will give me an analog auto also to hook up to the pcm. do you know the voltage range and coresponding a/f range of the stock sensore? 0-1v?
Last edited by distinctdev; 02-21-2007 at 11:36 PM.
Im pretty sure my aem will give me an analog auto also to hook up to the pcm. do you know the voltage range and coresponding a/f range of the stock sensore? 0-1v?
Narrowband has a voltage range of 0-1v. They are only accurate somewhere between 14-15 AFR.
Wideband is 0-5v and are accurate from ~8-22 AFR. Most are set up to be used from ~10-20 AFR or some can be set to whatever you want.
Absolutely there is--not a whole lot but I would say on a stk set-up you can gain 15-20 RWHP---I have EFILIVE-- most z06's have a stk AFR in the 11.2 range--far cry from optimum 12.9 and the the stk timing at WOT is around 19*---optimum around 24-28 There are other things to adjust as well like fan settings ,PE delays,PE TPS point,COT disable,IAT & ECT rates, to name a few that give better performance.
SO........WHAT WOULD BE GOOD SETTINGS FOR ALL THOSE KOOL ADJUSTMENTS?
OK I already mentioned what i thought the optimum AFR and timing should be-- Remember LS6 heads have a bit more compression and more efficient combustion chambers so they don't require as much timing as LS1 heads--mine is set on 24* WOT
Fan setting-----#1 on10* hotter than thermo
#1 off 1* hotter than thermo
#2 on 10* hotter than #1 on
#2 off 1* hotter than # 1 on
PE delays---------b3608 b3609 b3610 set at "0"
PE TPS point ---- b3616 set all table at 54 %
IAT correction---b5911--"0" out all timing subtractions from 32 to 140*
ECT correction --b5910--"0" out all timing subtractions from 100 t 230*
abuse mgmt. ---b1207 "0" out
Max torque by gear ---b6611 Max out
ETC pedal torque limit--b6612---Max out
Max torque by RPM---b6614---- Max out
Min. spark advance--b5915--2000 and up RPM's set at 10*
Fuel mixture spark correction ---b5908 "0" out
EGR spark correction----b5907----"0" out
That's a start all I can think off right off the top of my head--These adjustments aren't anything damaging or anything that will not make it pass smog--TQ management still 95% in tact
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Tuning a stock c5 z06
