Had tune/dyno yesterday by a pro that knew what he was doing, (I'd just screw it up). Most we could get was 302 rwhp... I had hoped for more!? 2004 C5 A4 with blackwing, corsa indy exhaust (no headers yet), 180 stat and lots of zaino! Any C5 owners with similair setup hitting better rwhp #s? Headers are next, but long tube or shorties to stay smog compliant in unfriendly CA? Thanks all...
Was this a Mustang dyno or Dynojet dyno? If it was a Mustang dyno, then it will give you a reading ~15% lower (so I've read and been told) than if the car had been measured with a Dynojet. Factoring that (presuming it was a Mustang) would bring you in ~340 rwhp range.
Had tune/dyno yesterday by a pro that knew what he was doing, (I'd just screw it up). Most we could get was 302 rwhp... I had hoped for more!? 2004 C5 A4 with blackwing, corsa indy exhaust (no headers yet), 180 stat and lots of zaino! Any C5 owners with similair setup hitting better rwhp #s? Headers are next, but long tube or shorties to stay smog compliant in unfriendly CA? Thanks all...
The real questions is what did you start with, there is a fair amount of varability in an eninge.I have a halltech stinger and a tune and am just over 322RWHP. My tune was done w/LS1 - Edit in the early spring months (heat makes a difference)
The real questions is what did you start with, there is a fair amount of varability in an eninge.
exactly.
Getting "more" out of a dyno tune means that there was "more" left in the engine. If your factory tune was already 12.5 to 13.0 AFR - then there is little to gain.
Getting "more" out of a dyno tune means that there was "more" left in the engine. If your factory tune was already 12.5 to 13.0 AFR - then there is little to gain.
What was your WOT AFR before the tune ?
That is a *VERY* important note!
Corvettes generally run rich, there are exceptions to every rule. My car , for example, after I installed my Halltech Stinger..I was getting lean codes and check engine lights at the drags. (I never heard of this happening to anyone on the forum before). My tuner actually had to add fuel at the top end.
Getting "more" out of a dyno tune means that there was "more" left in the engine. If your factory tune was already 12.5 to 13.0 AFR - then there is little to gain.
What was your WOT AFR before the tune ?
I am pretty new to all this so FORGIVE me. What the heck is WOT and AFR. Yes I see your point I probably was maxing out at the 302 RWHP and just "thought" I'd see more, (why... wishful thinking). I'm pretty convienced now I'm off for new LT headers, (any recommendations), and eventually a head/cam change. Thanks Mike, seem to have a lot of knowledge and it shows on your posts.
Was this a Mustang dyno or Dynojet dyno? If it was a Mustang dyno, then it will give you a reading ~15% lower (so I've read and been told) than if the car had been measured with a Dynojet. Factoring that (presuming it was a Mustang) would bring you in ~340 rwhp range.
Thanks, I believe it was a mustang dyno since the shop specialize in ford and especially stangs. I'll find out for sure.
Thanks, I was just reading your HEADERS? post, (and oh yeah I figured out WTF on my own ... I have't done headers yet, but I'm sure it'll be soon. Previously I was going to do the BB shorties casue it'll keep me on the good side of the Calif smog goddess, but now I'm starting to change my thinking to long tube... its just a ? of what brand?
Long tubes are definately the way to go and most companies are smog approved but there is a difference between being approved and meeting emissions.A good set of long tube headers with cats will still meet emissions and not trigger any trouble codes.LS2.com(in the LS1 section FAQ)has alot of info on header selection.if I can help you with headers feel free to contact me.
Location: Putting a 50¢ sticker of the U.S. Flag on a $50,000 import does not make one a patriot.
C5 A4's dyno from 290 to 310 stock(usually right at 300). There are may variables Temp and humidity are big ones, as well as elevation. You are well within range for your mods.
Cat-back's and air filters add very little HP, if any at all. I have read instances where they have actually lost HP.
Mustang dynos do read slightly lower than Dynojet's due to the eddy current, which realistically adds load so the numbers are more accurate. And just because it is a Ford Mustang shop, that does not mean that the dyno that they use is a Mustang dyno, no affiliation. Most places use a Dynojet, they are simpler as there is no load, just spinning a large drum.
I hope this helps,
AZC5
P.S. Keep in mind that a 2.73 car will usually dyno a little higher than a 3.15 car due to the gearing.
Thanks, I was just reading your HEADERS? post, (and oh yeah I figured out WTF on my own ... I have't done headers yet, but I'm sure it'll be soon. Previously I was going to do the BB shorties casue it'll keep me on the good side of the Calif smog goddess, but now I'm starting to change my thinking to long tube... its just a ? of what brand?
As of now, no Long Tube headers are smog-legal in CA (i.e. have a CARB Exemption Order). That being said, lots of folks there have LTs, but how they get past the smog inspections, I don't know.
Getting "more" out of a dyno tune means that there was "more" left in the engine. If your factory tune was already 12.5 to 13.0 AFR - then there is little to gain.
What was your WOT AFR before the tune ?
I have an 04 A4 with intake and exhaust. I have read in this forum that the '04's have an upgraded computer and that the factory has tweaked the programing. Given that the later is true, do you think the AFR is already at 12.5 to 13? Also, does removing torque management severely affect the life of the drive train? One more thing if I may, does the standard Predator upload change the shift points at WOT and if so to what RPM range? I made an observation that after a 50 mile run there is some black residue on my exhaust tips. Its not a lot, just a 1/2 " band on the bottom of the tips. Is this normal or does it indicate a rich condition?
The 2004 Predator has more adjustment capability that my older model.
I checked my 2002 (with very minor mods) using a WideBand O2 instrument and found it to be pig rich - averaging 11.6 AFR
I haven't any other experience other than with my '02 C5 - so I could only guess about the 2004 factory tune (and I don't like to guess).
Sure ... removing TM increases wear on the A4 tranny; that's why GM put it there (TM) in the first place.
Wear - by how much ???? Who knows ?????????????
OK need a little more advise... Now that the gears are broke in when I get on it WOT from a stop it revs up and at about 5500 rpm the engine starts to cut out. This is right as it should be shifting from 1st to 2nd. It'll aslo do the same thing prior to 2nd to 3rd shift. I think this might be referred to as "bogging"??? Is this a tuning issue? Where should the shift points be set at? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks
Mike, Yes that may be what is happening, but since I've never had it happen before I'm unsure. It is not redlining. If hitting the rev limiter feels like the engine missing and sputtering and cutting out then that's it. And if that's it what is the solution? Thanks!!!!!
hitting the rev limiter on the C5 generally doesn't cause sputtering or any rough engine running. It simply pulsates the fly-by-throttle plate. Akin to you letting off the accelerator briefly - then going back to WOT - then letting off the accelerator briefly again - then going back WOT agaon - ...
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Disappointed after predator tune/dyno?!
... I have't done headers yet, but I'm sure it'll be soon. Previously I was going to do the BB shorties casue it'll keep me on the good side of the Calif smog goddess, but now I'm starting to change my thinking to long tube... its just a ? of what brand?
