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*** SOLD *** Low-Mileage 4L60E Auto Trans w/ 3.15 Diff for Sale!
I pulled the original, low-mileage (36k miles only) auto trans out of my 1998 'Vert some time ago to swap in a six-speed manual set-up:
I'm selling the 4L60E and factory 3.15 "performance option" differential as a package together.
This also includes the original torque converter.
All of the above for $800 picked-up at my location in Metro-Detroit, MI.
Added bonus - I will throw in the wagon wheels mounted with super-low mile run-flats at this price if you pick up! (these are shown for sale in my other add here on the Forum) https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ile-emt-s.html
Please note that the torque tube, pedals, shifter, flex plate, etc., have been sold already, this is just for the trans and differential. It's just that I'm too lazy to take new photos...
Thank-you!
Jeff
Last edited by kalayaan12; 09-27-2022 at 10:39 PM.
"I pulled the original, low-mileage (36k miles only) auto trans out of my 1998 'Vert some time ago to swap in a six-speed manual set-up:
I'm selling the 4L60E and factory 3.15 "performance option" differential as a package together.
This also includes the original torque converter and bellhousing inspection cover.
All of the above for $700 picked-up at my location in Metro-Detroit, MI.
Please note that the torque tube, pedals, shifter, flex plate, etc., have been sold already, this is just for the trans, torque converter, and differential. It's just that I'm too lazy to take new photos...
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Last edited by kalayaan12; 08-19-2020 at 09:13 PM.
I just need the trans for the core to get built for my 01. where are you located and price range for just that? 300 or so is the most Id be willing to do since I only need it for the core.
Last edited by zinsavage123; 10-31-2020 at 02:00 AM.
My utmost apologies to the Corvette Forum community, I didn't post this correctly, and didn't catch Vetteman Jack's warning in time!
I can separate the trans and differential if needed and can also deliver within reasonable radius from Metro-Detroit area - but no shipping elsewhere at this time. Preference is to just sell this as a unit and be done with it (basically if you buy the trans for $700 the differential comes free).
These are prices if sold individually:
4L60E transmission + torque converter (36k miles, one owner) from 1998 C5 = $700 OBO
3.15 differential (36k miles, one owner) from 1998 C5 = $400 OBO
Sorry for the error!
Jeff
Last edited by kalayaan12; 11-01-2020 at 02:32 PM.
I just need the trans for the core to get built for my 01. where are you located and price range for just that? 300 or so is the most Id be willing to do since I only need it for the core.
Much appreciated, but a bit lower than what I'd like to get... I've gotten a lot of inquiries to sell this as a core, but given that the trans has low mileage and no issues ideally I'm hoping there's someone out there that really needs get their car running again but doesn't want to fork over the $$$ for a rebuilt one.
The title suggests that there's a "Part II" someplace, but I couldn't find it...
All in all it's not all that much of a hassle, depending on your tolerance level for this stuff. From a mechanical standpoint, you're taking out the trans / torque tube / differential as one unit after you drop the rear suspension cradle and get it out of the way and swapping in the manual version as one unit right back in, then connecting the shifter and clutch pedal. You're going to have to remove the starter, disconnect trans cooling lines, and shift linkage at the front end - and getting to some of the bellhousing bolts behind the engine is a huge PIA, so have extensions and swivels to be able to reach up there. Be EXTRA CAREFUL you don't get rear brake lines or wiring snagged as you lower things down in the back as you slowly drop the whole thing and pull it out backwards! Also make sure you've disconnected the battery before you do anything...
Yes, you'll have to cut a hole in your fire wall for the clutch rod - if I recall right there's a molded dimple where you need to drill using a hole saw (can't remember the size offhand, though). Time saver #1: You don't have to remove the whole automatic pedal assembly - you're just going to add the clutch pedal and the neutral safety start switch onto the existing assembly that's already tucked up under the steering wheel. I wish someone would have told me this first... Timesaver #2: It also might seem redundant, but be aware that the one-piece auto bellhousing does not work with the manual set-up, you need to have the two-piece manual bellhousing - which again, cost me a couple days of aggravation and waiting for the right parts to arrive. Timesaver #3: Remember to buy the pilot bearing you'll need to install into the rear of the crankshaft before you get too far into this and have to stop in the middle of everything and run out to the auto parts store for it...
You can actually bleed the clutch by yourself under the car by loosening the bleed screw with a box wrench and using the top of your foot to pull a broom handle backwards to depress the (newly installed) clutch pedal downwards. Tighten the bleed screw, let the clutch pedal return and repeat until you've gone through about a pint of fluid or so, but DO NOT run the reservoir dry accidently or you'll have to start all over again. For the bleeding procedure, having an assistant would be an enormous help, but just keep in mind if there's a will there's a way, and it usually involves duct tape and a wooden handle of some sort!
Aside from the straight-forward mechanical stuff, there's only two other challenges which are electrical in nature:
1. You'll find that once you've installed everything, your car won't start! That's because there's a neutral safety switch that was originally on the automatic transmission, but on manually-equipped vehicles it is mounted on the pedal assembly bracket under the steering wheel. Either you're going to have to "hot wire" the start circuit with a jumper of some sort (some people bend a wire and install it inside the big connector under the battery that acts as a bridge between the "yellow wire" and "purple wire" that originally ran to the neutral switch on the auto trans that is no longer there). This means you can now start your car in gear and that definitely isn't recommended. Alternately, you'll have to run some speaker wire or whatever to the manual clutch pedal switch that you installed when you put in the clutch pedal, and splice the other end into the connector under the battery in the appropriate spot (a service manual with wiring diagrams for your year is really helpful for figuring out this step!).
Timesaver #4: Above all, get the "transmission wiring harness" SPECIFICALLY for your year and whatever options you have (notably F45 select suspension dampening). Electrical connectors change from year to year and I found out the hard way that a 2001 transmission harness didn't help much on a 1998 vehicle, as not all of the connectors mated up properly. If you're hard core, you probably could make the automatic transmission wiring harness "work" by adding / removing connectors if you have the wiring diagrams and right connectors at your disposal, but it sure as hell makes life easier to get the right manual harness for your car instead of trying to do a lot of splicing and dicing to get the auto harness to connect up the right way.
2. Your engine light will stay on because the car still "thinks" it's an automatic and is still looking for missing sensors that are no longer there. It can be driven this way, however, without any noticeable issues as far as I could tell. Find someone with a Tech II to flash your ECM with a VIN from an identical car (same year and RPO options but with a manual transmission) so the engine light goes off and the idle speed is where it should be.
Most people will tell you "why don't you just sell your car and buy one with a stick already in it?". It may be good advise, or it may not. It really depends on how much work you want to do! But I will say that it is a tremendous feeling to row up and down through the gears knowing you did the wrench work (and some of the brain work to figure it out) all by yourself. Oh, and I'll add I did this with one arm in a sling while I was home recovering from shoulder surgery, so for someone that has the use of two hands and an assistant it'll be all that much easier!
Let me know if you have specific questions and I'll try to answer them.
Best of Luck!
Jeff
Last edited by kalayaan12; 11-05-2020 at 10:39 PM.
- One is a 3.42 from a 2001 manual 'Vette (under 15k miles) = $750 Firm
- The other is a 3.15 from my 1998 'Vert auto (removed at 36k miles) = $400 OBO
I'm in the Metro-Detroit area and can either meet-halfway / deliver them within about a 3-ish hour driving radius.
Thank-you!
Jeff
Last edited by kalayaan12; 11-22-2020 at 08:25 PM.
05-08-2020, 08:01 PM
*** SOLD *** Low-Mileage 4L60E Auto Trans w/ 3.15 Diff for Sale!
