WTB: Broken head-light adjuster (Golden rod)
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
WTB: Broken head-light adjuster (Golden rod)
*********Got one on the way - Thanks**************
I am looking for a broken adjuster assembly. I work at a machine shop and want to get my hands on one to see if there is any way to repair or upgrade the assembly. I have read the horror stories of broken golden rods and no place to buy replacements except for full assemblies ($400). I don't want to destroy my working adjuster, so I thought I see if anyone had a broken one they wanted to part with.
Let me know what you've got and what you want for it shipped to 47802.
I am looking for a broken adjuster assembly. I work at a machine shop and want to get my hands on one to see if there is any way to repair or upgrade the assembly. I have read the horror stories of broken golden rods and no place to buy replacements except for full assemblies ($400). I don't want to destroy my working adjuster, so I thought I see if anyone had a broken one they wanted to part with.
Let me know what you've got and what you want for it shipped to 47802.
Last edited by cadwiz_01Z; 04-24-2012 at 10:18 AM.
#7
Team Owner
I am looking for a broken adjuster assembly. I work at a machine shop and want to get my hands on one to see if there is any way to repair or upgrade the assembly. I have read the horror stories of broken golden rods and no place to buy replacements except for full assemblies ($400). I don't want to destroy my working adjuster, so I thought I see if anyone had a broken one they wanted to part with.
Let me know what you've got and what you want for it shipped to 47802.
Let me know what you've got and what you want for it shipped to 47802.
The adjuster mechanism uses bevel gears. One plastic and one metal (made on the golden rod). The housing around the gear train itself (where the screw rod passes through) is plastic and I drilled one or two small holes (1/16") directly over where the rod passes through, and then injected (squirted) some oil into each hole. After a few easy back and forth twists, the rod became free and started to move freely. I then followed up with some synthetic brake caliper grease I had on hand (waterproof) and squirted a bit into the holes.
The rod seizing, combined with being made of a cast "pot metal" (probably zinc alloy I'm guessing), causes the weak rod material to snap when too much force is exerted in trying to adjust the headlights. If there was sufficient lubrication in the little gear-train in the first place, there would never be a need to exert so much force that it breaks in the first place.
A stronger rod material would be helpful, but the lack of lubricant is a big contributing factor as well.
As far as repair, depending on where the rod breaks and how much "stub" you have left, I think a coupler with a couple small set-screws would work, but ONLY if the lubrication issue is addressed.
Needless to say of course, this all requires the removal of the headlight assembly from the car.
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm thinking of making a whole new golden rod/bevel gear to replace the existing (broken) one. Or, maybe a repair service where you buy a replacement and send in your old core to be reworked. It has to be cheaper than buying a whole new housing assembly to get the ability to adjust your headlights.
Might even come up with a bolt-in replacement of a better design. Less prone to locking up due to lubrication issues.
Might even come up with a bolt-in replacement of a better design. Less prone to locking up due to lubrication issues.
#9
Drifting
the rod breaks because the threaded screw seizes in the threaded plastic tube. I have done the same idea as above and freed the screw up and then slotted the stub where the rod broke off and then used a screw driver to adjust the headlight.