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Old 11-15-2004, 09:00 PM
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2 LOW 4 YOU
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Some guy backed into my car i think and thees a little crack about 1 inch on my front bumper is there a way to repair that with a bondo and repaint. I really hate to change the whole bumper
please help me out someone i cant sleep tonight until
thanx so much ralph
Old 11-15-2004, 09:25 PM
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MyBlueC5
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St. Jude Donor '05
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Originally Posted by 18 Wit A Vette
Some guy backed into my car i think and thees a little crack about 1 inch on my front bumper is there a way to repair that with a bondo and repaint. I really hate to change the whole bumper
please help me out someone i cant sleep tonight until
thanx so much ralph
Bumper covers are repairable. I suggest that first, remove the bumper. Disassemble it (anotherwards, remove all lights, markers, etc, etc)

If the bumper has been hit, it should have stress cracks that invariably will show the point of impact by showing elliptical curves in succession.

That area will need to be stripped (hopefully small enough you can sand down with a DA)

Depending if the cover is torn or cracked, if it is minor, you can use a plastic welder (looks like a soldering gun but with a big flat tip)

Bondo can be used but only if less than an 1/8" of an inch thick. (it'll be less once sanded) If you put it on too thick, it'll crack under the least amount of pressure.

Use a plastic prep cleaner to clean the bumper, prep and prime the damaged area. You can use a sealer and epoxy primer or at least a epoxy primer. Depending on the color, the cover can be sanded and painted with a urethane basecoat/clearcoat system.

You may or not not want to use flex agent. Flex agent evaporates within 12 hours and is "sold" many times by bodyshops as an extra feature ( ) It is used only so when you put the cover back on, it'll flex a bit without cracking. The proof is when you take your bumper on and off as many times as I have (when I was setting my new hood) the paint doesn't crack... remember, it evaporates in 12 hours.

I know that is a "crash" (no pun intended) but it'll give you a quick idea as to what is needed to do the repair. If you've never done any bodywork and/or paintwork, I suggest you take it to a professional.

There's much more involved but it's not a big deal. Rule of thumb is 250 to paint, 150'ish for O/H (overhaul... taking apart and reinstalling), 100-150'ish for bodywork (obviously depending on how much it needs).

Should cost 500-700 bucks to repair and refinish. If you were to replace it, you can add another couple of hundred bucks to that estimate. That does not include if it needs to be blended.

Sorry so long, hope that helps.

Mark
Old 11-15-2004, 09:27 PM
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Just for the record, the icon was not to insinuate that flex agent is bs, just the way some shops try to "sell" it.... like if you don't use it, the job is no good...blah, blah, blah.

Mark
Old 11-15-2004, 10:03 PM
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They fixed the one on my Firebird. They cleaned the back real well and epoxied a patch over the back to hold everything in place. Then filled the crack with epoxy. Sand and paint
Old 11-15-2004, 10:23 PM
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they fixed mine i got hit with a brick that fell off a truck anyways its all good now
Old 11-15-2004, 10:27 PM
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so the same would apply if you wanted to patch or "shave" a polyurethane panel? I have done plenty of sportbike race bodywork, and some dirtbike/ATV stuff, but have not plastic welded yet.
Once welded, how strong would the area be? If done properly, it shouldn't crack through or weaken i assume.
Old 11-15-2004, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jfrc
so the same would apply if you wanted to patch or "shave" a polyurethane panel? I have done plenty of sportbike race bodywork, and some dirtbike/ATV stuff, but have not plastic welded yet.
Once welded, how strong would the area be? If done properly, it shouldn't crack through or weaken i assume.
That would be correct. You'd obviously have to use the correct welding rod for the correct type of plastic/polyurethane/PPC/PVC/etc,etc...

Mark
Old 11-15-2004, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MyBlueC5
That would be correct. You'd obviously have to use the correct welding rod for the correct type of plastic/polyurethane/PPC/PVC/etc,etc...

Mark
thanks
hmmm.....there is a guy around here that is supposed to be good at plastic welding. This gives me some very busy ideas
Old 11-16-2004, 01:02 AM
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I had mine repaired by the Dealer Under $500 CDN afetr I hit the flying piece of plywood.. Its only been a week so I can't tel you how it will last.
Old 11-16-2004, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jfrc
thanks
hmmm.....there is a guy around here that is supposed to be good at plastic welding. This gives me some very busy ideas
Man, if you only knew the stuff we have made using plastic welding rods. For eg. we took a Ford Mustang bumper, cut out the "pocket" for the license plate area (the entire thing) and welded it into a Honda Civic bumper since Honda's mount their plates on the liftgate. You could never tell.

It works well but it is time consuming.

Mark
Old 11-16-2004, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jfrc
thanks
hmmm.....there is a guy around here that is supposed to be good at plastic welding. This gives me some very busy ideas
im sensing a white vette minus door handles, etc...spinning around in someone's head...may be wrong....but....hm.....
Old 11-16-2004, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sebringsilver97coupe
im sensing a white vette minus door handles, etc...spinning around in someone's head...may be wrong....but....hm.....
eventually, but that will be down the road a bit
but the front license plate area really bothers me- it either needs to be shaved or reshape into a duct
and that protruding antenna- an internal would look much simpler
then theres the big rear sidemarker lights
and.....
i will autoX it this year, but after that, i have some ideas

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