Supercharging
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Supercharging
Thinking about supercharging anyone regret doing this .I’ll have to change a few things on my setup but pretty bored at the power level I’m at .I’d like to get close to 600 not sure but might have my heads ported while I take it apart probably change the cam to suit the blower
Popular Reply
01-03-2023, 09:47 AM
Burning Brakes
I have the ECS kit and I highly recommend it. I have had it on for 6 years and 30,000 miles. The kit comes with everything that you need, including fuel, and will make 500 whp on an otherwise stock set up. I had headers, full exhaust, an MSD Air Force intake manifold, and a LS3 silver blade 90mm throttle body and made 561whp/560wtq. I have a Dewitt's radiator/dual fans on the front end and MCCleod RST clutch on the back end. I added a Texas Speed blower cam and went up to 633whp/597wtq. At this point I started having engine temp issues (I live in Charlotte, so 90+ degree days are common) so I added a Meziere electric water pump and that solved that. The power is extremely controllable, more so than a roots type blower in my opinion, with a significantly lower gas mileage penalty. I haven't broken anything, but I don't do digs at the drag strip. I'm running 325/30/19's on the rear, it's easy to break the tires loose, but it's also easy to get a good launch.
#2
Moderator
not a single regret ... power across the board, drives docile unless you step on it.
Only downside is decreased gas milage, but you don't really drive a vette for fuel economy. AA super is your best option for a c5, one of the only few kits out there that are still being made for the c5.
Only downside is decreased gas milage, but you don't really drive a vette for fuel economy. AA super is your best option for a c5, one of the only few kits out there that are still being made for the c5.
#3
Race Director
I've had an A&A kit on my '02Z for about 10 years. I was at 482/432 before I installed the kit. I have had no problems other than needing to upgrade the drivetrain with well over 600 wheel now. If you use it often, things will break, especially the diff. The blower is dead reliable, but to be fair, I've had the car since new, and it only has 23k miles.
EDIT: I've said before, I would have left the car NA had I known what greater power causes. I say this because it was a ball to drive with almost 500 wheel and a badass bumpy cam sound. Still would have needed a better clutch, but the diff. might not have ended it's life as twisted scrap.
EDIT: I've said before, I would have left the car NA had I known what greater power causes. I say this because it was a ball to drive with almost 500 wheel and a badass bumpy cam sound. Still would have needed a better clutch, but the diff. might not have ended it's life as twisted scrap.
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Texas Where God intended me to be.
Posts: 6,955
Received 207 Likes
on
89 Posts
2023 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C5 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11,'22-'23
I'm about to do the same with mine. I wanted to put one on my previous 01 back in 09 but bought the GF a ring instead. When we picked up this 01 Vert a few months back the first thing the wife said was "when are you putting the blower on it?"
#6
Racer
I had my A&A with the smallest pulley installed on my 1997 with 128,000 or so on a stock motor. I had headers on it as well. I manage not breaking things by being smart when to apply the power. Standing start pulls and manual shift pulls. I try not to allow the A4 to auto downshift, that’s when thing go a little crazy. But it is funny when pulling away from someone and the look is “ ok, that’s not stock”. It’s a ball to drive and we’ll worth it.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I've had an A&A kit on my '02Z for about 10 years. I was at 482/432 before I installed the kit. I have had no problems other than needing to upgrade the drivetrain with well over 600 wheel now. If you use it often, things will break, especially the diff. The blower is dead reliable, but to be fair, I've had the car since new, and it only has 23k miles.
EDIT: I've said before, I would have left the car NA had I known what greater power causes. I say this because it was a ball to drive with almost 500 wheel and a badass bumpy cam sound. Still would have needed a better clutch, but the diff. might not have ended it's life as twisted scrap.
EDIT: I've said before, I would have left the car NA had I known what greater power causes. I say this because it was a ball to drive with almost 500 wheel and a badass bumpy cam sound. Still would have needed a better clutch, but the diff. might not have ended it's life as twisted scrap.
#8
Race Director
Well, it might be better to go step by step, because I made some mistakes, and changes I shouldn't have...
I went through about 4 catbacks (all used) which made the car no faster. LG longtubes and mid-pipe X was the first performance mod. Then a couple of years later I went all in on a H/C setup. One of the first sets (Trickflow) made, and had to do it all over again in a month when Brian Tooley called me about bad valve stems. When I swapped heads the 2nd time, Brian sent back an all new set that were not just CNC'd but hand finished by him. The Crane cam stayed this time, making the job a little easier. This combo tuned (by Tom Wong) made 455 RW with the small 228-232@112 cam on a Mustang Dyno. I later found a used FAST 90 and hand ported it myself (Quite easy) and bought a used Mezeire EWP. Some non performance stuff , like catch can, but nothing cosmetic. Got Tom to retune and got 482WHP and outstanding throttle response. Put in a RPS twin carbon clutch and a Tick3/4 bore master cyl. with an aftermarket slave (don't remember). This clutch combo sucked because there was almost no slipping the clutch, either on or off, which made driving difficult, but I got used to it. This is the peak of my NA build.
CHAPTER 2
Got the urge for boost, even though I never raced this car... Just a middle age crisis, I guess. Talked several times to Andy @ A&A and he came up with a kit that was put together out of spare components for a ridiculous price, to which I added a stg. 3 blower cam that lowered my DCR to a safer level for boost. Adding the SC kit; clearance issues made me go back to the stock LS6 intake, and ditch the EWP. Found out later I could have used both with a little tweaking, but oh well, another mistake. With some fueling issues with the in-tank upgrade, I added a Magnason fuel pump booster and Tom tuned it again. Drove it for about a month before shifting hard into 3rd, I turned the diff. into shrapnel. Getting Rck to build me a new one, then I also got a Pfadt diff brace, and an ECS trans brace, just for insurance. Finally came to my senses and stopped modding.
Sorry for the book, but maybe my mistakes will help someone else. Part of my blowing up my diff is the added power, and part of it was the VERY harsh clutch. I've since put in a smaller bore Tick which has helped out the harshness a lot.
I went through about 4 catbacks (all used) which made the car no faster. LG longtubes and mid-pipe X was the first performance mod. Then a couple of years later I went all in on a H/C setup. One of the first sets (Trickflow) made, and had to do it all over again in a month when Brian Tooley called me about bad valve stems. When I swapped heads the 2nd time, Brian sent back an all new set that were not just CNC'd but hand finished by him. The Crane cam stayed this time, making the job a little easier. This combo tuned (by Tom Wong) made 455 RW with the small 228-232@112 cam on a Mustang Dyno. I later found a used FAST 90 and hand ported it myself (Quite easy) and bought a used Mezeire EWP. Some non performance stuff , like catch can, but nothing cosmetic. Got Tom to retune and got 482WHP and outstanding throttle response. Put in a RPS twin carbon clutch and a Tick3/4 bore master cyl. with an aftermarket slave (don't remember). This clutch combo sucked because there was almost no slipping the clutch, either on or off, which made driving difficult, but I got used to it. This is the peak of my NA build.
CHAPTER 2
Got the urge for boost, even though I never raced this car... Just a middle age crisis, I guess. Talked several times to Andy @ A&A and he came up with a kit that was put together out of spare components for a ridiculous price, to which I added a stg. 3 blower cam that lowered my DCR to a safer level for boost. Adding the SC kit; clearance issues made me go back to the stock LS6 intake, and ditch the EWP. Found out later I could have used both with a little tweaking, but oh well, another mistake. With some fueling issues with the in-tank upgrade, I added a Magnason fuel pump booster and Tom tuned it again. Drove it for about a month before shifting hard into 3rd, I turned the diff. into shrapnel. Getting Rck to build me a new one, then I also got a Pfadt diff brace, and an ECS trans brace, just for insurance. Finally came to my senses and stopped modding.
Sorry for the book, but maybe my mistakes will help someone else. Part of my blowing up my diff is the added power, and part of it was the VERY harsh clutch. I've since put in a smaller bore Tick which has helped out the harshness a lot.
#9
Le Mans Master
not quite as dramatic on mine:
i had the TVS on a stock engine + exhaust for mid-500s to the ground for 7yrs. then decided to port the blower, swap in some built higher-compression heads, & add a big cam - which squeezed out almost 150 more hp to the wheels... that said, i also did a better clutch, changed the drive shaft, rebuilt the trans, upgraded my fuel system, and did some extra cooling mods to account for it.
i had the TVS on a stock engine + exhaust for mid-500s to the ground for 7yrs. then decided to port the blower, swap in some built higher-compression heads, & add a big cam - which squeezed out almost 150 more hp to the wheels... that said, i also did a better clutch, changed the drive shaft, rebuilt the trans, upgraded my fuel system, and did some extra cooling mods to account for it.
#10
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 343,242
Received 19,363 Likes
on
14,013 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
#11
Safety Car
Member Since: Feb 2021
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,049
Received 2,262 Likes
on
1,310 Posts
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
These cautionary tales are precisely why I won’t boost it. Lol!
I know there will never be enough, and then the repairs and upgrades…. Just gotta stay in my lane, and wave.
I know there will never be enough, and then the repairs and upgrades…. Just gotta stay in my lane, and wave.
The following users liked this post:
New2it (01-06-2023)
#12
Le Mans Master
my wife supports the habit so long as i include her... shoot, right before we packed the old girl up for the winter, my wife finally asked to drive again (after 5yrs and being more nervous about how low/long the nose is than the power).
#13
Melting Slicks
Forced induction is the most reliable means of adding power to any combustion engine.
The key to maintaining reliability is first, you absolutely must know how to tune the engine and have a plan for tuning before a single change.
Next, don't modify the motor much.
Use a low lift cam with a slow ramp rate to maintain valvetrain reliability and high RPM stability.
Do not port or modify heads. Use factory parts wherever possible. Keep the compression as low as possible for safety.
Blowers can supply a given HP worth of airflow- power is limited by the blower, not the engine. Modifying the engine does not increase power significantly, it only adds risk.
How much power can a 2L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 4L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 6L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
They are all capped to 500hp by the forced induction they chose. Modifying the engine by stroking, boring, displacment, head mods, flow mods, large lift cams, etc... only will reduce reliability.
The key to maintaining reliability is first, you absolutely must know how to tune the engine and have a plan for tuning before a single change.
Next, don't modify the motor much.
Use a low lift cam with a slow ramp rate to maintain valvetrain reliability and high RPM stability.
Do not port or modify heads. Use factory parts wherever possible. Keep the compression as low as possible for safety.
Blowers can supply a given HP worth of airflow- power is limited by the blower, not the engine. Modifying the engine does not increase power significantly, it only adds risk.
How much power can a 2L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 4L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 6L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
They are all capped to 500hp by the forced induction they chose. Modifying the engine by stroking, boring, displacment, head mods, flow mods, large lift cams, etc... only will reduce reliability.
#14
Le Mans Master
Forced induction is the most reliable means of adding power to any combustion engine.
The key to maintaining reliability is first, you absolutely must know how to tune the engine and have a plan for tuning before a single change.
Next, don't modify the motor much.
Use a low lift cam with a slow ramp rate to maintain valvetrain reliability and high RPM stability.
Do not port or modify heads. Use factory parts wherever possible. Keep the compression as low as possible for safety.
Blowers can supply a given HP worth of airflow- power is limited by the blower, not the engine. Modifying the engine does not increase power significantly, it only adds risk.
How much power can a 2L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 4L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 6L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
They are all capped to 500hp by the forced induction they chose. Modifying the engine by stroking, boring, displacment, head mods, flow mods, large lift cams, etc... only will reduce reliability.
The key to maintaining reliability is first, you absolutely must know how to tune the engine and have a plan for tuning before a single change.
Next, don't modify the motor much.
Use a low lift cam with a slow ramp rate to maintain valvetrain reliability and high RPM stability.
Do not port or modify heads. Use factory parts wherever possible. Keep the compression as low as possible for safety.
Blowers can supply a given HP worth of airflow- power is limited by the blower, not the engine. Modifying the engine does not increase power significantly, it only adds risk.
How much power can a 2L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 4L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
How much power can a 6L engine make with a 500hp turbo?
They are all capped to 500hp by the forced induction they chose. Modifying the engine by stroking, boring, displacment, head mods, flow mods, large lift cams, etc... only will reduce reliability.
dropping compression on LS engines is great when shoving as much air in the cylinders as possible and ops-testing the travel limit of your gas pedal... but for part-throttle driving (which is basically every other non-drag-race scenario & more what it sounds like the OP is looking for), it'd feel more sluggish and castrated compared to its current driving feel because you'll need high boost to get back to 'normal' cylinder pressure (which is what dictates how much power you make).
it's true that stock LS top ends are pretty decent out of the box, but there are worlds of gain to be had by pairing the right combination of heads and cam with your blower goals. that's because much more so than a turbo, a supercharger is kinda like cocaine in that it simply amplifies the power curve of whatever the engine does naturally aspirated. that said, if you have a specific power goal: you can use blower A to make that on a stock engine or smaller blower B on a modified engine... or blower A turning slower on the modified engine... or blower A on the modified engine surpassing your goal.
turbos are a different story when it comes to weighing the pros:cons of top end work.
as for the 2L, 4L, and 6L engines all using the same turbo (which this is a supercharger discussion): the 2L would be as gutless as a thanksgiving turkey until it gets wound up, while the 6L would barely be asking it to work at all & therefore much more tame with a broader powerband but tapering off earlier... but that's beside the point and more-appropriate for a different turbo thread - though i do see the point you're making about the head unit can only move so much air regardless of what it's on.
#15
Le Mans Master
that said: yes, you can make 600hp to the wheels with a centri on a stock long block.
but you'll find many more heads/cam cars making 600+hp because it's easier on the engine & the blower if they've been optimized for higher airflow than GM gave it. experience doesn't lie.
edit:
i liken it to needing to mow 2 acres. you can do it with a 21" push mower (stock engine) or a 42" riding mower (modified engine)... both tools will totally get the job done, but the push mower will end up requiring a lot more work because it wasn't designed for that big of a yard.
but you'll find many more heads/cam cars making 600+hp because it's easier on the engine & the blower if they've been optimized for higher airflow than GM gave it. experience doesn't lie.
edit:
i liken it to needing to mow 2 acres. you can do it with a 21" push mower (stock engine) or a 42" riding mower (modified engine)... both tools will totally get the job done, but the push mower will end up requiring a lot more work because it wasn't designed for that big of a yard.
Last edited by _zebra; 12-27-2022 at 02:42 AM.
#16
Safety Car
Member Since: Feb 2021
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,049
Received 2,262 Likes
on
1,310 Posts
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Blowers love big heads and big headers. Those holes can’t be too big. Boost is a tricky thing in that it is indeed back pressure. It really likes to have a nice escape route. And compression is not a problem, provided you have the right timing and fuel octane.
Also note that blower engines can benefit from blower specific cams and stronger valve springs. Blowers actually push against the valves in a way to make it harder for the springs to close the valves. So appropriate cam and spring help the flow and valve train control.
The A&A kits are a proven winner. Maybe some upgraded valve train components, but that’s just me. Lots of guys do nothing, even run with stock exhaust and they run hard! There is lots of hp to add in heads, cam, exhaust, etc, but just try to hook up 550 WHP on the street, and you’ll probably be fine staying there.
Also note that blower engines can benefit from blower specific cams and stronger valve springs. Blowers actually push against the valves in a way to make it harder for the springs to close the valves. So appropriate cam and spring help the flow and valve train control.
The A&A kits are a proven winner. Maybe some upgraded valve train components, but that’s just me. Lots of guys do nothing, even run with stock exhaust and they run hard! There is lots of hp to add in heads, cam, exhaust, etc, but just try to hook up 550 WHP on the street, and you’ll probably be fine staying there.
#17
Melting Slicks
a a a a a a n n d . . . here we go!
dropping compression on LS engines is great when shoving as much air in the cylinders as possible and ops-testing the travel limit of your gas pedal... but for part-throttle driving (which is basically every other non-drag-race scenario & more what it sounds like the OP is looking for), it'd feel more sluggish and castrated compared to its current driving feel because you'll need high boost to get back to 'normal' cylinder pressure (which is what dictates how much power you make).
dropping compression on LS engines is great when shoving as much air in the cylinders as possible and ops-testing the travel limit of your gas pedal... but for part-throttle driving (which is basically every other non-drag-race scenario & more what it sounds like the OP is looking for), it'd feel more sluggish and castrated compared to its current driving feel because you'll need high boost to get back to 'normal' cylinder pressure (which is what dictates how much power you make).
it's true that stock LS top ends are pretty decent out of the box, but there are worlds of gain to be had by pairing the right combination of heads and cam with your blower goals.
that's because much more so than a turbo, a supercharger is kinda like cocaine in that it simply amplifies the power curve of whatever the engine does naturally aspirated.
that said, if you have a specific power goal: you can use blower A to make that on a stock engine or smaller blower B on a modified engine... or blower A turning slower on the modified engine... or blower A on the modified engine surpassing your goal.
Also, matchbot provides some useful exercise in establishing rules of larger vs smaller compressors, I think if you play with matchbot for a couple hours you will have a deeper understanding
https://www.borgwarner.com/matchbot/
I'm not picking on you, I want you to replace me. But to do that you must be willing to work and come up to the level.
turbos are a different story when it comes to weighing the pros:cons of top end work.
as for the 2L, 4L, and 6L engines all using the same turbo (which this is a supercharger discussion): the 2L would be as gutless as a thanksgiving turkey until it gets wound up, while the 6L would barely be asking it to work at all & therefore much more tame with a broader powerband but tapering off earlier... but that's beside the point and more-appropriate for a different turbo thread - though i do see the point you're making about the head unit can only move so much air regardless of what it's on.
2.0L
2.5L
3.0L
These are ancient engines from the 90's and all have broad usable powerbands, 2L 2.5L and 3L engines work well in the 450-800rwhp bracket at 8.5:1 compression ratio and knock down 25-30mpg at 3000lbs vehicle weight. Once you understand what 3L is capable of you will question everything you ever learned about V8 engines and re-think the entire game.
Its like you want to train to become faster, so you add weight to your body. You get used to the weight, adapt to carrying an extra 100lbs everywhere you run and live. Then, remove the weight and see the results. If somebody hands you a V8 its like you never had to work with the extra 100lbs and you are missing out training and knowledge and experience from true training of the mind and body which needs to come first before you can understand how to utilize such a large displacement to its fullest potential
#18
We all need a wife like yours!! To be fair, my wife has been awfully good about my addiction, er...hobby
#19
Race Director
There is nothing to gain. It has never happened and will never happen and you cannot prove it has ever happened no matter what you post or think because thermodynamics is quite clear about the rules of mass in must equal mass out and the turbo or supercharger is a pump which is pumping some particular mass and whatever mass is pumped in must also exit the engine exhaust no matter what you've done to the engine will not change that fact.
Dazzle us with your BS. Love the graphics.
Dazzle us with your BS. Love the graphics.
The following 3 users liked this post by zeevette:
#20
Burning Brakes
Would a magnacgarger or A&A kit be reliable on a basically stock engine, headers, 3.73 gears, and 3200 converter. Is it safe to road course a magnacharger or A&A kit, or heads and cam kit better for a road course. I have an A4 trans. Probably fine with 450-475 at the wheels. I want to take my C5 across the country. Would you take your blown c5 or heads and cam C5 across country?