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Lots of Corvette content, but also covered events like SEMA, CES, various IMSA races, some museum tours, etc. I initiated a daily live car show, but started right before Covid bs started and the algorithm got fouled up and wasn't promoting the vids, so I paused that. I target high quality, lots of cinematic stuff, but focus on core content. I also have an off road/overland side where I did an overland short film and some other things. I may be splitting the channel to KnightOverlandTV so KnightDriveTV can remain focused on cars/Corvettes, etc. Not sure.
Last edited by KnightDriveTV; 05-15-2020 at 12:20 PM.
May seem like a stupid question but is this setup a lot heavier then the stock headlight? I have the plastic OEM headlight. I believe earlier years had glass....I just added a bunch of with with my SC install and prefer to keep from adding more weight
May seem like a stupid question but is this setup a lot heavier then the stock headlight? I have the plastic OEM headlight. I believe earlier years had glass....I just added a bunch of with with my SC install and prefer to keep from adding more weight
I still have my 4eye brackets sitting around as well as my 2001 OEM plastic housings, so I just weighed them for you. OEM housings are about 21 oz each side with no bulbs. A 4eye bracket and hardware weighs in at about 15 oz. Projectors are 11 oz each with the halogen bulb installed....with these numbers, you're looking at 1.3 lbs OEM vs 2.3 lbs 4eye. Not accounting for any minor differences in LED vs halogen bulb weight, etc, you're looking at roughly 1 extra lb each side. I wouldn't sweat it haha. The SC kit only adds about 60-80 lbs, it's really not all that much.
Last edited by heggsc5; 05-19-2020 at 03:14 PM.
Reason: added projector weights
I will include all weighing in the vid as well. This was actually a concern for me because it's the ideology in which I construct my car, with weight reduction in mind. I am actually going to be doing something a bit different that some people won't agree with. I'm going to work on that next two days and we'll see how it plays out.
I still have my 4eye brackets sitting around as well as my 2001 OEM plastic housings, so I just weighed them for you. OEM housings are about 21 oz each side. A 4eye bracket and hardware weighs in at about 15 oz. Unfortunately I don't have the projectors yet, but I can't imagine they weigh much. My guess is the swap will add about 2-3 extra pounds total...I wouldn't sweat it haha. Hell, even an extra 5 lbs wouldn't be a huge deal haha. The SC kit only adds about 60-80 lbs, it's really not all that much.
awesome..thanks for all the info...now it looks like lighting mods are in my future
I will include all weighing in the vid as well. This was actually a concern for me because it's the ideology in which I construct my car, with weight reduction in mind. I am actually going to be doing something a bit different that some people won't agree with. I'm going to work on that next two days and we'll see how it plays out.
Had some very interesting findings today. I started late and got one side done only (shooting very well positioned and good video slows the process quite a bit, and I want to be thorough as I was with other vids of installs). I am maxed at the vibration isolators and the adjuster nut and the I'm ever so slightly low enough, that sitting static at night, I was seeing little whispy smoke in the front. I looked and the light was getting the very edge of the bumper hot enough that it was smoking. So I need to find a slight bit more upright movement here. I am going to make some adjustments and figure a solution but, I'd suggest everyone just be sure you're high enough the light isn't cooking the bumper. I have one vibration dampener well in contact, and one with an air gap, so going to make some tweaks. Vid will be out monday vs tomorrow as it looks. Then I'm doing to pop bang tune and some C6 mods in upcoming vids. Gotta get my vid machine runnin again...lol.
Last edited by KnightDriveTV; 05-17-2020 at 12:09 AM.
I was seeing little whispy smoke in the front. I looked and the light was getting the very edge of the bumper hot enough that it was smoking. So I need to find a slight bit more upright movement here. I am going to make some adjustments and figure a solution but, I'd suggest everyone just be sure you're high enough the light isn't cooking the bumper.
I'm using LEDs for both high and low beams, so no problem for me. My friends have commented on how close the lens is to the bumper, though, and that anything other than an LED solution might generate excess heat. If you modify the stops that came with the kit, you can make the lights sit a little higher.
Good luck with your install. I'm looking forward to seeing how your install turns out.
I think I have a tad movement in the brackets themselves, so I am going to try and move them up and try to adjust the stop up a bit. May have to do the LED bulbs to make it work though. I didnt buy the LED's to do a light comparison but the halogen def pumps out heat. I am actually going to do a number of variations with this kit/brackets/lighting etc...so it's gonna be multi-part series so to speak...lol. I have something ahead that's going to deviate the status quo here and people are either gonna like it or spit on it...lol. I'll get it adjusted though no prob. If I have to tweak the vibration stops a tad, that's no big deal either.
Last edited by KnightDriveTV; 05-17-2020 at 12:31 AM.
I used the hikari bulbs and honestly they fit really tight in the base. The base also allows for the bulb to be rotated perpendicular to the lens shield inside the housing.
I thought LEDs only had to be aligned if they were going in a reflector style housing?
I didn't bother to align the LEDs when I put them in the projector....guess that's a fail on my part.
With that in mind, do the LEDs need to be at 9 and 3 or 12 and 6? I know I can rotate them inside the housing with ease.
Had some very interesting findings today. I started late and got one side done only (shooting very well positioned and good video slows the process quite a bit, and I want to be thorough as I was with other vids of installs). I am maxed at the vibration isolators and the adjuster nut and the I'm ever so slightly low enough, that sitting static at night, I was seeing little whispy smoke in the front. I looked and the light was getting the very edge of the bumper hot enough that it was smoking. So I need to find a slight bit more upright movement here. I am going to make some adjustments and figure a solution but, I'd suggest everyone just be sure you're high enough the light isn't cooking the bumper. I have one vibration dampener well in contact, and one with an air gap, so going to make some tweaks. Vid will be out monday vs tomorrow as it looks. Then I'm doing to pop bang tune and some C6 mods in upcoming vids. Gotta get my vid machine runnin again...lol.
I brought up concerns about this a couple of months ago, it was something I noticed and was worried might be an issue.
Originally Posted by Fastbird
I noticed something in these pictures and my curiosity is piqued. How much heat is coming off those low beams? And how hot is the edge of the front bumper getting from said heat? The lens and bumper edge look pretty close to each other, and I'm concerned that might be a factor at some point, especially if someone drops a 55w HID kit in.
May have to change my HID plans and go LED if this is the situation.
I want to share this with those contemplating this project who might be on a budget. The Tsingyun led bulbs appear to be identical to the Hikaris and are available for $16.99 a pair as opposed to the Hikaris for $39.99. I'm using the Tsingyuns for the high beams only. I went with the Auxito y13 series for the lows ($39.99) which are even smaller than the Tsingyun/Hikaris and claim to be even brighter.
I want to share this with those contemplating this project who might be on a budget. The Tsingyun led bulbs appear to be identical to the Hikaris and are available for $16.99 a pair as opposed to the Hikaris for $39.99. I'm using the Tsingyuns for the high beams only. I went with the Auxito y13 series for the lows ($39.99) which are even smaller than the Tsinyun/Hikaris and claim to be even brighter.
Experienced any LED issues like failure to close or anything? Got links?
Many moons ago I tapped a 12v bulb into the headlight circuit. That ended all headlight closure issues common with HIDs or LEDs. It was cheap and there are no heat issues like with resistors.
I purchased the LEDs on the big auction site and the Auxitos price was a "best offer".
I want to share this with those contemplating this project who might be on a budget. The Tsingyun led bulbs appear to be identical to the Hikaris and are available for $16.99 a pair as opposed to the Hikaris for $39.99. I'm using the Tsingyuns for the high beams only. I went with the Auxito y13 series for the lows ($39.99) which are even smaller than the Tsingyun/Hikaris and claim to be even brighter.
As far as I can see the Tsingyun led bulbs are no longer available.
05-15-2020, 08:43 AM
