2000 clutch issue
09-29-2016, 05:38 PM
#1
2000 clutch issue
2000 53,000 miles. so last night I had what I read this morning known as the "clutch pedal woes". Stopped at a light after ideling for 30 mins and the clutch stuck to the floor. Seemed half engaged. Then finally cleared up for the most part but was still acting messed up . Looked at my fluid. Black. So I changed it several times. It's gotten more clear each time. Around 3,000 rpms it will grind a lil going into second. Doesn't grind in any other gear. Now last night I did force the damn thing into second as I was rolling they a red light. At that time if acted as tho the clutch was half engaged. So yes I had to force it into second. At the time I didn't wanna get hit so it made sense. Anyways back to now...aside from the grinding going into second when around 3,000 rpms I launched hard and noticed the clutch slipped in second. After driving it around stopping and going to see if it would work ok itself out, the lil but if grinding isn't changing and the clutch did skip two times in second. I stopped running it hard as I don't want to mess anything up any worse than it may already be. I'm unfamiliar with the transmissions in these things. Anyone have any suggestions? Thx in advance.
Last edited by Tksmooth; 09-29-2016 at 05:41 PM.
09-30-2016, 07:33 AM
#2
Drifting
At first blush, sounds like the slave cylinder is going. However, it could just be that the trans is gone. With the clutch pedal full to the floor, engine running at idle, does the trans shift smoothly into reverse, or do you feel a little grinding or slight movement of the car. If yes, probably the slave or T/O bearing. if it goes in smooth, no grinding, the probably second gear going out.
The slippage suggests the clutch itself is going. However the description of the problem is vague enough that it is hard to tell you exactly what you have
If you conclude it is related to the slave, I would suggest you replace the whole clutch, slave, and put a remote bleeder in. Since the system is gunky, I would also replace the clutch master. If you have it done professionally, then expect a pretty good ding to your wallet. If it were mine, and I suspected anything wrong with the trans, I would ship it to a rebuilder. I have used Texas Drivetrain Performance a couple times and they have been prompt and got the trans back is short order and smooth as butter.
The slippage suggests the clutch itself is going. However the description of the problem is vague enough that it is hard to tell you exactly what you have
If you conclude it is related to the slave, I would suggest you replace the whole clutch, slave, and put a remote bleeder in. Since the system is gunky, I would also replace the clutch master. If you have it done professionally, then expect a pretty good ding to your wallet. If it were mine, and I suspected anything wrong with the trans, I would ship it to a rebuilder. I have used Texas Drivetrain Performance a couple times and they have been prompt and got the trans back is short order and smooth as butter.
09-30-2016, 09:09 AM
#3
sorry for the lack of detail..it only will grind if im in first shifting into second and have the rpms over 3,000...aside from that it doesn't grind in any other gear up or down. As far as feeling any movement I do not.It feels the same as it has for the past few months that I've owned it. I changed the fluid using the ranger method several time last night. Ran it hard at times in between changes and that's when I had the slippage in second gear. it started to rain and I was unable to shift that hard to see if it would do it again...a few times last night the pedal did act up and stuck to the floor and/or would engage closer to the floor than usual. This is what it did when I was at the stop light the first go around....its odd because it doesn't consistently do that. the only thing it does consistently now is grind into second if the rpms are above 3,000
At first blush, sounds like the slave cylinder is going. However, it could just be that the trans is gone. With the clutch pedal full to the floor, engine running at idle, does the trans shift smoothly into reverse, or do you feel a little grinding or slight movement of the car. If yes, probably the slave or T/O bearing. if it goes in smooth, no grinding, the probably second gear going out.
The slippage suggests the clutch itself is going. However the description of the problem is vague enough that it is hard to tell you exactly what you have
If you conclude it is related to the slave, I would suggest you replace the whole clutch, slave, and put a remote bleeder in. Since the system is gunky, I would also replace the clutch master. If you have it done professionally, then expect a pretty good ding to your wallet. If it were mine, and I suspected anything wrong with the trans, I would ship it to a rebuilder. I have used Texas Drivetrain Performance a couple times and they have been prompt and got the trans back is short order and smooth as butter.
The slippage suggests the clutch itself is going. However the description of the problem is vague enough that it is hard to tell you exactly what you have
If you conclude it is related to the slave, I would suggest you replace the whole clutch, slave, and put a remote bleeder in. Since the system is gunky, I would also replace the clutch master. If you have it done professionally, then expect a pretty good ding to your wallet. If it were mine, and I suspected anything wrong with the trans, I would ship it to a rebuilder. I have used Texas Drivetrain Performance a couple times and they have been prompt and got the trans back is short order and smooth as butter.
09-30-2016, 02:38 PM
#4
Drifting
it is entirely possible that you have two problems, one clutch/slave related and the other now a second gear going out. When the slave fails to perform as you describe, it is hard on the trans and could have created damage. It sounds like you were making some hard shifts. A sluggish clutch would still be applying power when the synchro system is trying to stop the gears for a shift. Then, the next time you get grinding. Call TDP (see my previous post) the guy that owns the business is very good to talk to and he can ask you questions and perhaps help you decide what is next.. Right now, the best that can be offered is guesses.
For sure you are going to have to fix the master/slave gunk issue, it has grown bigger on you than the Ranger method can fix. This means dropping the drivetrain. It can be done in a garage, but hard on the back, all the laying down needed. Since it is a big job, logic would say replace the clutch/flywheel. AND since the tranny is down, send it off for a rebuild, so you don't have to take the car apart again. A stage one tranny rebuild should run you on the order of $1600 (or so including shipping) and clutch, flywheel, ,master, and remote, $800-$1000. If you DIY this then the math is $2.6k. labor... well a guy in our club just dropped $5500 on a C6 tran/clutch job at a stealership. There is little difference between a C5 and C6 (except C6Z which has all the cooling lines going to the front) regarding parts cost and labor.
For sure you are going to have to fix the master/slave gunk issue, it has grown bigger on you than the Ranger method can fix. This means dropping the drivetrain. It can be done in a garage, but hard on the back, all the laying down needed. Since it is a big job, logic would say replace the clutch/flywheel. AND since the tranny is down, send it off for a rebuild, so you don't have to take the car apart again. A stage one tranny rebuild should run you on the order of $1600 (or so including shipping) and clutch, flywheel, ,master, and remote, $800-$1000. If you DIY this then the math is $2.6k. labor... well a guy in our club just dropped $5500 on a C6 tran/clutch job at a stealership. There is little difference between a C5 and C6 (except C6Z which has all the cooling lines going to the front) regarding parts cost and labor.
Last edited by k24556; 09-30-2016 at 02:41 PM. Reason: mistakes
The following users liked this post:
Tksmooth (09-30-2016)
09-30-2016, 03:20 PM
#5
Drifting
it is entirely possible that you have two problems, one clutch/slave related and the other now a second gear going out. When the slave fails to perform as you describe, it is hard on the trans and could have created damage. It sounds like you were making some hard shifts. A sluggish clutch would still be applying power when the synchro system is trying to stop the gears for a shift. Then, the next time you get grinding. Call TDP (see my previous post) the guy that owns the business is very good to talk to and he can ask you questions and perhaps help you decide what is next.. Right now, the best that can be offered is guesses.
For sure you are going to have to fix the master/slave gunk issue, it has grown bigger on you than the Ranger method can fix. This means dropping the drivetrain. It can be done in a garage, but hard on the back, all the laying down needed. Since it is a big job, logic would say replace the clutch/flywheel. AND since the tranny is down, send it off for a rebuild, so you don't have to take the car apart again. A stage one tranny rebuild should run you on the order of $1600 (or so including shipping) and clutch, flywheel, ,master, and remote, $800-$1000. If you DIY this then the math is $2.6k. labor... well a guy in our club just dropped $5500 on a C6 tran/clutch job at a stealership. There is little difference between a C5 and C6 (except C6Z which has all the cooling lines going to the front) regarding parts cost and labor.
For sure you are going to have to fix the master/slave gunk issue, it has grown bigger on you than the Ranger method can fix. This means dropping the drivetrain. It can be done in a garage, but hard on the back, all the laying down needed. Since it is a big job, logic would say replace the clutch/flywheel. AND since the tranny is down, send it off for a rebuild, so you don't have to take the car apart again. A stage one tranny rebuild should run you on the order of $1600 (or so including shipping) and clutch, flywheel, ,master, and remote, $800-$1000. If you DIY this then the math is $2.6k. labor... well a guy in our club just dropped $5500 on a C6 tran/clutch job at a stealership. There is little difference between a C5 and C6 (except C6Z which has all the cooling lines going to the front) regarding parts cost and labor.
Try this first:
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
09-30-2016, 03:30 PM
#6
My 2000 has 141k on it & the trans is still going strong, however the clutch just went south. Had similar symptoms as yours. Local mechanic replaced disc, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bearing & slave cylinder (big job). $1296. out the door.
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Tksmooth (10-03-2016)
10-03-2016, 11:06 PM
#7
I took it to a trans guy today. He was thinking it was a hydraulic issue or a pressure plate issue. He said the synchros are fiber vs brass and I may have messed second gear up a lil. He will be tearing into it in the next week or so. Guy seemed to know his stuff and I heard a lot of good about the guy. Fingers crossed I guess. 53,000 miles on it and to have this go on kind of pisses me off but it is what it is at this point.