Going from Hurst short shifter BACK to stock shifter - thoughts?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Going from Hurst short shifter BACK to stock shifter - thoughts?
The previous owner of our C5 installed a Hurst short throw shifter. I don't mind the shifter but don't like that big white cue ball for a ****, and my g/f doesn't like it at all. It's too Bubba for her.
I found a guy selling a stock shifter, ****, and boot.
Has anyone actually gone BACK to a stock shifter from a short throw? I haven't driven a C5 with a factory shifter so I don't know what it really feels like. TBH, short throws don't matter to me.
Alternatively, if anyone knows where I can get a nicer **** for the Hurst short throw by all means post it. I can't seem to find any. Hate that big cue ball, lol.
I found a guy selling a stock shifter, ****, and boot.
Has anyone actually gone BACK to a stock shifter from a short throw? I haven't driven a C5 with a factory shifter so I don't know what it really feels like. TBH, short throws don't matter to me.
Alternatively, if anyone knows where I can get a nicer **** for the Hurst short throw by all means post it. I can't seem to find any. Hate that big cue ball, lol.
#2
Team Owner
Hurst has the stock 9/16"-18 thread that the stock **** uses so you can install any stock or aftermarket **** that was designed for the C5. I have had a few different ***** on mine and I ran a Hurst for a few years before switching over to the MGW which is even better than the Hurst.
IMO, going back to the stock shifter will be like going from a steel shaft to a wet noodle. I would just swap ***** and leave the Hurst.
Here are a few of pics of ***** I had on my Hurst.
Adapted an F-body Hurst ****
A C6 **** a vendor adapted to fit the C5 thread
MGW race ****
Momo **** designed for the C5 thread
IMO, going back to the stock shifter will be like going from a steel shaft to a wet noodle. I would just swap ***** and leave the Hurst.
Here are a few of pics of ***** I had on my Hurst.
Adapted an F-body Hurst ****
A C6 **** a vendor adapted to fit the C5 thread
MGW race ****
Momo **** designed for the C5 thread
#3
1/4 mile/AutoX
It would be like going back to wheels made of stone !!!!!
I have MGW and love the feel of a round **** (I am old school)
I have MGW and love the feel of a round **** (I am old school)
#4
Le Mans Master
Hurst has the stock 9/16"-18 thread that the stock **** uses so you can install any stock or aftermarket **** that was designed for the C5. I have had a few different ***** on mine and I ran a Hurst for a few years before switching over to the MGW which is even better than the Hurst.
IMO, going back to the stock shifter will be like going from a steel shaft to a wet noodle. I would just swap ***** and leave the Hurst.
IMO, going back to the stock shifter will be like going from a steel shaft to a wet noodle. I would just swap ***** and leave the Hurst.
Stock shifters really do suck.... as Patches said, you're better of just replacing the shifter ****.
#5
Melting Slicks
The completely stock shifter sits higher has long throws, and IMO the **** looks like it came off a truck. A lot of us are running shortened stock shifters - we just extend the 9/16 18tpi thread and add a **** to choice. Poor man's Hurst.....
Given you have a Hurst installed, I would go with Patches' advice - just buy a new ****. I like that modded F body **** in the picture. May go and find one of those. I think (maybe Patches can confirm, that the Momo **** rides a bit higher? I think you have to buy a **** and an adapter - least that's what I gleaned from their web site.
Given you have a Hurst installed, I would go with Patches' advice - just buy a new ****. I like that modded F body **** in the picture. May go and find one of those. I think (maybe Patches can confirm, that the Momo **** rides a bit higher? I think you have to buy a **** and an adapter - least that's what I gleaned from their web site.
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deejbee (09-09-2016)
#6
Race Director
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Just pick up a stock shift **** and be done with it. A Hurst was the FIRST mod I ever did to my C5 and I kept the stock shift **** on it. Don't put the demon key back in it either and you should be rattle free also.
#7
Team Owner
FYI, the f-body **** above is one I adapted myself with an insert I designed and pressed into it. The bore is much larger than the C5 shifter shaft.
I eliminated the two ends of this adapter to shorten it as they were unnecessary.
I eliminated the two ends of this adapter to shorten it as they were unnecessary.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the posts.
I am going to stick with the Hurst short throw and look for a different k ***.
Patches, you could sell those. That is exactly what I am looking for.
I am going to stick with the Hurst short throw and look for a different k ***.
Patches, you could sell those. That is exactly what I am looking for.
#9
Melting Slicks
Go to Twistedshifterz.com and order a smaller ball, that's what I did. Mines about the size of a golf ball.
Hurst **** is 2 1/4, you want a 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 ****.
I put my stock shifter back in after I cut an inch off and rethreaded it along with the Anti-Venom mod....I like it.
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...te-shfit-*****
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...-c5-shift-****
Hurst **** is 2 1/4, you want a 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 ****.
I put my stock shifter back in after I cut an inch off and rethreaded it along with the Anti-Venom mod....I like it.
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...te-shfit-*****
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...-c5-shift-****
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 09-09-2016 at 08:18 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Go to Twistedshifterz.com and order a smaller ball, that's what I did. Mines about the size of a golf ball.
Hurst **** is 2 1/4, you want a 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 ****.
I put my stock shifter back in after I cut an inch off and rethreaded it along with the Anti-Venom mod....I like it.
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...te-shfit-*****
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...-c5-shift-****
Hurst **** is 2 1/4, you want a 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 ****.
I put my stock shifter back in after I cut an inch off and rethreaded it along with the Anti-Venom mod....I like it.
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...te-shfit-*****
https://www.twistedshifterzlive.com/...-c5-shift-****
A wee bit hotter when I took this picture a couple weeks ago.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok guys, thanks for all the suggestions.
I am thinking of buying the following k *** in the picture below. It is a modded C6 shift **** so it fits a C5.
Does anyone have experience with it?
Does it thread on straight? I want the 1,3,6,R at 12 oclock and 2,4,6 at 6 o'clock.
I am thinking of buying the following k *** in the picture below. It is a modded C6 shift **** so it fits a C5.
Does anyone have experience with it?
Does it thread on straight? I want the 1,3,6,R at 12 oclock and 2,4,6 at 6 o'clock.
#12
Team Owner
Uhmm, look up at my post with all the **** pics - one of those is a modified C6 **** I ran for a while. It's a great ****. A guy on eBay sells those with a plastic insert that you screw onto the C5 shaft. The threads on the shaft cut threads into the plastic sleeve and lock it onto the shaft. The **** on my C7 is similar to the C6 **** but is even better.
#13
1/4 mile/AutoX
Uhmm, look up at my post with all the **** pics - one of those is a modified C6 **** I ran for a while. It's a great ****. A guy on eBay sells those with a plastic insert that you screw onto the C5 shaft. The threads on the shaft cut threads into the plastic sleeve and lock it onto the shaft. The **** on my C7 is similar to the C6 **** but is even better.
#15
1/4 mile/AutoX
^^^^ I feel so bad for you (not really) You sure do fine work !!!!
#16
I switched mine back to the stock shifter, with a Hurst T-handle, and it works great. Much easier to shift IMO. The main difference between stock and short, simply comes down to having different pivot points, or shaft lengths. The shorter the travel the more force it takes. It's just a lever to control the shifter inside the transmission on the other end of the shift rod. You can still shift it as fast as you want with the stock one. It just seems faster with the short one is all. You could have a shifter with 1 inch of travel, but you would need 2 hands to move it, and little feedback to it's position.
#17
1/4 mile/AutoX
I switched mine back to the stock shifter, with a Hurst T-handle, and it works great. Much easier to shift IMO. The main difference between stock and short, simply comes down to having different pivot points, or shaft lengths. The shorter the travel the more force it takes. It's just a lever to control the shifter inside the transmission on the other end of the shift rod. You can still shift it as fast as you want with the stock one. It just seems faster with the short one is all. You could have a shifter with 1 inch of travel, but you would need 2 hands to move it, and little feedback to it's position.
#18
Racer
Back to stock from a Kirbin. Two things that have changed my approach to shifts since i went back to the stock one, 1- i no longer shift at redline but instead changed my shift points to peak torque and HP intersect RPMs according to my dyno sheet. 2 - the stock shifter requires less effort than I was initially applying to the process.
By decreasing my applied force to changing gears I have actually increased my shifting speed and efficiency. 1-2, 3-4 and 5-6 i simply cup the shift **** loosely with my fingers leaving space between my palm pulling the shifter towards me. It goes right where it should with very little effort. 2-3 and 4-5 i use the base of my palm to just push the shifter, (I never grip the sifter at all with my full hand in any gear shift) again it goes right where it should. no missed shifts or anything.
As with anything in this hobby of ours, there will always be different approaches and/or opinions about what is right or how it should be done. What I believe is find what works for YOU and go with it. No one may agree with my approach and that is perfectly fine. it works for me. just providing food for thought. best wishes to you.
By decreasing my applied force to changing gears I have actually increased my shifting speed and efficiency. 1-2, 3-4 and 5-6 i simply cup the shift **** loosely with my fingers leaving space between my palm pulling the shifter towards me. It goes right where it should with very little effort. 2-3 and 4-5 i use the base of my palm to just push the shifter, (I never grip the sifter at all with my full hand in any gear shift) again it goes right where it should. no missed shifts or anything.
As with anything in this hobby of ours, there will always be different approaches and/or opinions about what is right or how it should be done. What I believe is find what works for YOU and go with it. No one may agree with my approach and that is perfectly fine. it works for me. just providing food for thought. best wishes to you.
Last edited by wvufan1965; 09-10-2016 at 11:19 AM.
#19
Going back to OEM after having a short shifter is like trying to put a turd back in your *** after taking a dump. Strictly IMO.
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Last edited by Studying4boards; 09-10-2016 at 11:19 AM.
#20
Team Owner
I put a Hurst shifter in my C-5, back in 2002. After fiddling with the various adjustments that can be made to it, I found a feel that I love, and wouldn't trade it for anything else. With regard to the shift ****, I bought a Kirban Performance Products shift ****, p/n KPP 1317, through Corvette parts supplier Zip Products. It was sold as Zip's p/n ST-422.