corvette still shakes after a lot of work! HELP!
#1
corvette still shakes after a lot of work! HELP!
long story short,
The Issue-
car shakes at hwy speeds of 70+, does not shake under 70. and ive had this issue for over a year now.
changed the bearings, because i run 2 inch hubcentric adapters for my wide fenders
changed the diff/trans mount with a new oem part.
had the wheels balanced already with new tires.
still had the shaking at hwy speed
WITHIN THE LAST WEEK
disassemble the vette, found that the driveshaft was bent, got a brand new one in from the dealership. inspected half shafts and they are fine. Have a monster stage 2 clutch with almost 8k miles from earlier install and just resurfaced the flywheel. also running midpipes with no cats, dont know if that helps, but it does sound bad *** though.
AFTER INSTALL
I feel the shake is worse and can also feel it at lower speeds as well. the car will even shake at idle a little more than before. i feel the drivetrain shaking, there is no check engine light.
please help! any input is helpful. i just want my baby to run proper already.
The Issue-
car shakes at hwy speeds of 70+, does not shake under 70. and ive had this issue for over a year now.
changed the bearings, because i run 2 inch hubcentric adapters for my wide fenders
changed the diff/trans mount with a new oem part.
had the wheels balanced already with new tires.
still had the shaking at hwy speed
WITHIN THE LAST WEEK
disassemble the vette, found that the driveshaft was bent, got a brand new one in from the dealership. inspected half shafts and they are fine. Have a monster stage 2 clutch with almost 8k miles from earlier install and just resurfaced the flywheel. also running midpipes with no cats, dont know if that helps, but it does sound bad *** though.
AFTER INSTALL
I feel the shake is worse and can also feel it at lower speeds as well. the car will even shake at idle a little more than before. i feel the drivetrain shaking, there is no check engine light.
please help! any input is helpful. i just want my baby to run proper already.
#3
#4
Safety Car
did you change your Torque tube bushings?
when everything was taken apart was it toque to the correct specs?
check your a-arm bushings
inspect your hubcentric adapters for any hair line cracks or out of round issues
when everything was taken apart was it toque to the correct specs?
check your a-arm bushings
inspect your hubcentric adapters for any hair line cracks or out of round issues
#6
Le Mans Master
If it is shaking that bad at idle, how could that be the wheels or spacers?
#7
Le Mans Master
Last edited by 73Corvette; 06-28-2016 at 09:20 AM.
#8
"My Dad's a TV Repairman"
I had to replace 2 rear Y2K painted (aftermarket chromed) Speedlines (cheap spun cast, and very soft), bent slightly. Looked fine, balanced supposedly within specs, but were wobbling on the machine. Slight out of round in back causes really annoying vibrations, mostly above the rear view and in the driveline. Replaced 'em with two Alcoa (forged) polished Y2K wheels, car is like silk now.
#9
Le Mans Master
+1000
I had to replace 2 rear Y2K painted (aftermarket chromed) Speedlines (cheap spun cast, and very soft), bent slightly. Looked fine, balanced supposedly within specs, but were wobbling on the machine. Slight out of round in back causes really annoying vibrations, mostly above the rear view and in the driveline. Replaced 'em with two Alcoa (forged) polished Y2K wheels, car is like silk now.
I had to replace 2 rear Y2K painted (aftermarket chromed) Speedlines (cheap spun cast, and very soft), bent slightly. Looked fine, balanced supposedly within specs, but were wobbling on the machine. Slight out of round in back causes really annoying vibrations, mostly above the rear view and in the driveline. Replaced 'em with two Alcoa (forged) polished Y2K wheels, car is like silk now.
I feel the shake is worse and can also feel it at lower speeds as well. the car will even shake at idle a little more than before. i feel the drivetrain shaking, there is no check engine light.
How would wheels cause this?
#10
Melting Slicks
I'm not a real tech guy but something you said got my attention. You said that you can feel a "shake" at idle. Do you mean the car is at a standstill? If thats the case then it would seem to me its somewhere in the drivetrain. Whats the engine RPM when the shake occurs when driving?
#11
Burning Brakes
I'd vote for trying a new set of wheels (preferably borrowed if you don't already own another set) to see if that resolves your issue.
#12
Le Mans Master
Has it ALWAYS shook?
When did it start shaking?
After hub spacers?
After Wheel change?
After Tire change?
There seems to be too many variables to deal with all at once you need to eliminate them one at a time and see which one either fixes your issue or not... start with the simplest and work down...
If you do more than one thing at a time you won't know which or what fixed it or didn't...heck it might bad tie rod ends...tire out of round... etc..
You may have to redo some of what you have already done...
Like to NEVER found the shake in my 05 dodge it was a high speed vibration really more than a shake it was the front drive shaft... after I had the rear shaft balanced twice and rebuilt with spicer u joints... rotated tires and had them balanced three times... had one brand new BAD tire that was causing some of the issue got it replaced under warranty... sometimes it just takes chasing the dang thing till you kill it...
When did it start shaking?
After hub spacers?
After Wheel change?
After Tire change?
There seems to be too many variables to deal with all at once you need to eliminate them one at a time and see which one either fixes your issue or not... start with the simplest and work down...
If you do more than one thing at a time you won't know which or what fixed it or didn't...heck it might bad tie rod ends...tire out of round... etc..
You may have to redo some of what you have already done...
Like to NEVER found the shake in my 05 dodge it was a high speed vibration really more than a shake it was the front drive shaft... after I had the rear shaft balanced twice and rebuilt with spicer u joints... rotated tires and had them balanced three times... had one brand new BAD tire that was causing some of the issue got it replaced under warranty... sometimes it just takes chasing the dang thing till you kill it...
Last edited by 73Corvette; 06-28-2016 at 01:27 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
I just cant stand the lack of expertise here... the LSX motor is externally balanced using the clutch and flywheel assembly to mimic the factory balance.. Any attempts to change the factory balance will cause an out of balanced rotating mass. Cutting a flywheel is not what you do with an externally balanced engine.. so much help , so little knowledge..
the clutch assembly has to be clocked before any modification can be done down stream from the engine. Once this clocking has been charted, a new zero balanced clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly have to be zero balanced and then the clocking weights have to be added in the correct places. I wont argue this point, but this is how its done... I don't post here any more, but sometimes I just cant stand to see the mis information found here. Hard to find anyone here that is credible any more. the know it all's chassed most of us away, with their disrespect.
Bill aka ET
the clutch assembly has to be clocked before any modification can be done down stream from the engine. Once this clocking has been charted, a new zero balanced clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly have to be zero balanced and then the clocking weights have to be added in the correct places. I wont argue this point, but this is how its done... I don't post here any more, but sometimes I just cant stand to see the mis information found here. Hard to find anyone here that is credible any more. the know it all's chassed most of us away, with their disrespect.
Bill aka ET
#15
Melting Slicks
I just cant stand the lack of expertise here... the LSX motor is externally balanced using the clutch and flywheel assembly to mimic the factory balance.. Any attempts to change the factory balance will cause an out of balanced rotating mass. Cutting a flywheel is not what you do with an externally balanced engine.. so much help , so little knowledge..
the clutch assembly has to be clocked before any modification can be done down stream from the engine. Once this clocking has been charted, a new zero balanced clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly have to be zero balanced and then the clocking weights have to be added in the correct places. I wont argue this point, but this is how its done... I don't post here any more, but sometimes I just cant stand to see the mis information found here. Hard to find anyone here that is credible any more. the know it all's chassed most of us away, with their disrespect.
Bill aka ET
the clutch assembly has to be clocked before any modification can be done down stream from the engine. Once this clocking has been charted, a new zero balanced clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly have to be zero balanced and then the clocking weights have to be added in the correct places. I wont argue this point, but this is how its done... I don't post here any more, but sometimes I just cant stand to see the mis information found here. Hard to find anyone here that is credible any more. the know it all's chassed most of us away, with their disrespect.
Bill aka ET
You're seriously blaming me as the reason you don't post here anymore?
Because I called you out once for trying too hard?
Last edited by chassed; 06-28-2016 at 08:58 PM.
#16
Le Mans Master
I just cant stand the lack of expertise here... the LSX motor is externally balanced using the clutch and flywheel assembly to mimic the factory balance.. Any attempts to change the factory balance will cause an out of balanced rotating mass. Cutting a flywheel is not what you do with an externally balanced engine.. so much help , so little knowledge..
the clutch assembly has to be clocked before any modification can be done down stream from the engine. Once this clocking has been charted, a new zero balanced clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly have to be zero balanced and then the clocking weights have to be added in the correct places. I wont argue this point, but this is how its done... I don't post here any more, but sometimes I just cant stand to see the mis information found here. Hard to find anyone here that is credible any more. the know it all's chassed most of us away, with their disrespect.
Bill aka ET
the clutch assembly has to be clocked before any modification can be done down stream from the engine. Once this clocking has been charted, a new zero balanced clutch pressure plate and flywheel assembly have to be zero balanced and then the clocking weights have to be added in the correct places. I wont argue this point, but this is how its done... I don't post here any more, but sometimes I just cant stand to see the mis information found here. Hard to find anyone here that is credible any more. the know it all's chassed most of us away, with their disrespect.
Bill aka ET
SOME maybe most, of what you are calling disrespect that I have seen was YOUR fault, YOU brought it on yourself by being a bully and a condescending a$$... you like to call it like it is, and don't like to sugar coat things, SO I'm NOT disrespecting you, just telling you the truth...I know your very sick and I'm sorry for that, but, that doesn't give you license to just say WHATEVER you feel like saying without some repercussions.
I don't know who US is, are there more GM Engineers that have been on the forum and were run off by the "uncredibles"?...Personally, I think it is SAD that you have so much to offer ( far more than I) but yet you somehow seem to have, cut off your nose to spite your face in regard to respect... it's EARNED not given. When YOU are SO disrespectful, you are going to reap what you've sown. It's YOUR kind of post that COULD make me feel inferior and quit coming to the C5 forum at all... but, in spite of your arrogance and superiority complex, I will continue to try to learn and help where I can... I try REALLY hard to NOT give bad information, but I am NOT an engineer and have NO formal training... not even a college degree, BUT I'M NOT STUPID!
I have only been around the LSX technology for about 2 years and have learned a LOT about them... quite a bit from YOU...
PLEASE be less judgemental and critical of others that are trying to learn and help each other...we can use your expertise and wisdom, but you have to make it palatable, or at the very least NOT so abrasive...
The following 2 users liked this post by 73Corvette:
chassed (06-28-2016),
Cherry 2002 (06-28-2016)
#17
Has it ALWAYS shook?
When did it start shaking?
After hub spacers?
After Wheel change?
After Tire change?
There seems to be too many variables to deal with all at once you need to eliminate them one at a time and see which one either fixes your issue or not... start with the simplest and work down...
If you do more than one thing at a time you won't know which or what fixed it or didn't...heck it might bad tie rod ends...tire out of round... etc..
When did it start shaking?
After hub spacers?
After Wheel change?
After Tire change?
There seems to be too many variables to deal with all at once you need to eliminate them one at a time and see which one either fixes your issue or not... start with the simplest and work down...
If you do more than one thing at a time you won't know which or what fixed it or didn't...heck it might bad tie rod ends...tire out of round... etc..
but the shaking was speed dependant at first. no matter what rpm or gear, if im driving past 70+, it would shake... when i go to shift at high rpm, the car would have some drivetrain slap, ( this was the driveshaft getting bent)... didnt have any shaking at idle or low speed driving.
i had cheap adapters on it and it still shook. it did squeeked at first but found to be the exhaust hangers. put new tires on it in december and did the same thing. changed rims about 3 months ago but does the same thing. bought the custom made hubcentric adapters for it about 2 months ago and it still shook at hwy speed.
now the car after the new driveshaft install and clutch resurface, the car shakes at idle, at low speed driving and gets worse when 70-75+.there is a squeek but i'm assuming its the exhaust hangers again.
i will try to retorque the bolts and mounts. and i will also rebalance the wheels and change tires soon.
i will also check with the machine shop who resurfaced the flywheel and ask them about if it was balanced.
thank you everyone for your input.
i will update as soon as i can. Peace
Last edited by KingXTC5; 06-28-2016 at 10:32 PM.
#18
Also, the when the driveshaft was replaced last week, it is the whole driveshaft including the bearings and all, balanced from the dealership.
i forgot to mention that when i first had the clutch installed about a year ago, i had problems with creeping from a stop, it would jerk and shake, and that was it. when it started rolling, then no shaking until it got up to hwy speeds of 70+. the creeping issue has now been resolved. but i did notice it very slightly again today.
The adapters do not have cracks or damage.
I will let you all know what i find as soon as possible.
i forgot to mention that when i first had the clutch installed about a year ago, i had problems with creeping from a stop, it would jerk and shake, and that was it. when it started rolling, then no shaking until it got up to hwy speeds of 70+. the creeping issue has now been resolved. but i did notice it very slightly again today.
The adapters do not have cracks or damage.
I will let you all know what i find as soon as possible.
Last edited by KingXTC5; 06-28-2016 at 10:39 PM.
#19
Pro
Wow. Reading this sure makes me think there is something to be said for keeping the car stock. Or making very few and simple mods. This situation sounds like a bit of a nightmare.
#20
Le Mans Master
Also, the when the driveshaft was replaced last week, it is the whole driveshaft including the bearings and all, balanced from the dealership.
i forgot to mention that when i first had the clutch installed about a year ago, i had problems with creeping from a stop, it would jerk and shake, and that was it. when it started rolling, then no shaking until it got up to hwy speeds of 70+. the creeping issue has now been resolved. but i did notice it very slightly again today.
The adapters do not have cracks or damage.
I will let you all know what i find as soon as possible.
i forgot to mention that when i first had the clutch installed about a year ago, i had problems with creeping from a stop, it would jerk and shake, and that was it. when it started rolling, then no shaking until it got up to hwy speeds of 70+. the creeping issue has now been resolved. but i did notice it very slightly again today.
The adapters do not have cracks or damage.
I will let you all know what i find as soon as possible.