Must You Always Change Rotors AND Pads?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Must You Always Change Rotors AND Pads?
I'm gonna try and replace pads on my 2000 FRC with 70k miles. I've never tried replacing my brake pads myself and since I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm going to be highly reliant on Youtube tutorials. So far, it seems every tutorial also includes changing rotors. I can't really afford to change rotors right now. Is it a mistake to only change the pads? I'm sure they're the original stock rotors.
Also, do I need "Caliper Spreaders" if I'm just replacing the pads?
Also, do I need "Caliper Spreaders" if I'm just replacing the pads?
Last edited by craig_vette; 04-17-2016 at 10:38 AM.
#2
1/4 mile/AutoX
I'm gonna try and replace pads on my 2000 FRC with 70k miles. I've never tried replacing my brake pads myself and since I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm going to be highly reliant on Youtube tutorials. So far, it seems every tutorial also includes changing rotors. I can't really afford to change rotors right now. Is it a mistake to only change the pads? I'm sure they're the original stock rotors.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
I tried searching but, forgive me, I don't really know what to look for. The prices for the front and rear pads were different at AutoZone so I assume they have different part #s.
#4
1/4 mile/AutoX
This would be stock replacement !!!!
The following 2 users liked this post by Pounder:
craig_vette (04-17-2016),
doublenut9 (04-17-2016)
#5
Team Owner
Rotors on newer cars don't have a lot of "meat" on the surfaces. You may be able to have the rotors turned to provide a new surface assuming there are no deep gouges or wear It's also a good way to check the rotors for any excessive runout or warping. And if it turns out there is a problem like that, the rotors should be tossed.
Any reputable auto repair shop or machine shop will be able to check the rotors and machine the surface.
But stock C5 rotors are not that expensive, so it may be worth just replacing them. Replacing the rotors requires the removal of the calipers and the brackets. You will need the appropriate size sockets, wrenches, and a torque wrench (the bolts that hold the caliper brackets should be torqued to spec).
Also, at 70K miles, it's time to do a flush and refill of the brake fluid, and even replacing the flex lines to the calipers would be a good idea
Any reputable auto repair shop or machine shop will be able to check the rotors and machine the surface.
But stock C5 rotors are not that expensive, so it may be worth just replacing them. Replacing the rotors requires the removal of the calipers and the brackets. You will need the appropriate size sockets, wrenches, and a torque wrench (the bolts that hold the caliper brackets should be torqued to spec).
Also, at 70K miles, it's time to do a flush and refill of the brake fluid, and even replacing the flex lines to the calipers would be a good idea
#6
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If you want to stick with stock type rotors, check out what NAPA has. I've heard they sell rotors at a good price and are good quality too.
#7
Team Owner
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
What do you use to push the caliper pistons back in? At 1:35 into this vid, Scotty Kilmer uses a special tool and advises against using large pliers.
Last edited by craig_vette; 04-17-2016 at 12:57 PM.
#9
Racer
On some cars you need to screw the caliper back into place. You can rent the tool at almost any parts store for free. You give them a credit card, they charge you the price of the tool and refund the money when you return it after you are done.
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
Drifting
Craig you sound like me, "not mechanically inclined" and "can't really afford to change rotors"
Recently my local shop charged me only a $50 dollar bill + pads to change the fronts. He threw in a fluid change too.I had no previous driving or stopping issues so we did not change rotors. My brakes feel and act like new. My car is a '99 A4 coupe with 226000 on the clock.
Of course DIY would be fun and a great learning experience too..
Recently my local shop charged me only a $50 dollar bill + pads to change the fronts. He threw in a fluid change too.I had no previous driving or stopping issues so we did not change rotors. My brakes feel and act like new. My car is a '99 A4 coupe with 226000 on the clock.
Of course DIY would be fun and a great learning experience too..
Last edited by SaxyVette; 04-17-2016 at 01:21 PM.
#14
1/4 mile/AutoX
#16
Safety Car
I'm gonna try and replace pads on my 2000 FRC with 70k miles. I've never tried replacing my brake pads myself and since I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm going to be highly reliant on Youtube tutorials. So far, it seems every tutorial also includes changing rotors. I can't really afford to change rotors right now. Is it a mistake to only change the pads? I'm sure they're the original stock rotors.
Also, do I need "Caliper Spreaders" if I'm just replacing the pads?
Also, do I need "Caliper Spreaders" if I'm just replacing the pads?
Craig,
I have had these on my car since 2010....well worth the price. A lot of others have had the same good experience with this set up !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-04-CHEVY-...NW~Vb8&vxp=mtr
The following users liked this post:
craig_vette (04-17-2016)
#17
Burning Brakes
Typically the front pistons can be pressed back into the bore with a big C-clamp; the rears typically need the rotating tool to get the piston back into the bore.
Unless they're way cut, the rotors don't really require replacement. The new pads will typically conform to any imperfections in the rotor surface in short order.
Unless they're way cut, the rotors don't really require replacement. The new pads will typically conform to any imperfections in the rotor surface in short order.