Intake manifold torquing issues
#1
Intake manifold torquing issues
Hey Guys, So I removed and replaced my sender unit this weekend. At the end of the install, I managed to over torque bolt #1 in the sequence and snap it off in the block. Thankfully without any issues I have that removed and a new bolt in hand. My issue is this. I am starting to torque all the bolts again, however just as a test so I don't snap another bolt I tighten the first bolt without a torque wrench tight enough to need some force to move it, however my brand new craftsman torque wrench is getting almost zero resistance as I am attempting to torque it to 25inch pounds (first pass is 44) I would really rather not snap off another bolt. Has anyone else experienced this? Maybe its the wrench maybe I am doing this wrong?
Also how does one torque the two bolts under the fire wall back by the sender unit, theres virtually no space to get the wrench back there.
Thanks in advance.
Also how does one torque the two bolts under the fire wall back by the sender unit, theres virtually no space to get the wrench back there.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Race Director
I have taken mine off 3 times and have never torqued it. 25 inch pounds is basically pretty snug. I know others will say torque it correctly but a lot of others just tighten it down in a star pattern and haven't had problems. All it's doing is sealing that rubber seal on the bottom you don't need to he-man it but it sounds like your torque wrench is jacked does it work on the other ones? or you just having issues on the one you broke?
#3
I have taken mine off 3 times and have never torqued it. 25 inch pounds is basically pretty snug. I know others will say torque it correctly but a lot of others just tighten it down in a star pattern and haven't had problems. All it's doing is sealing that rubber seal on the bottom you don't need to he-man it but it sounds like your torque wrench is jacked does it work on the other ones? or you just having issues on the one you broke?
#4
Race Director
I assume after you went back and got the others to work you went to the original broken one and still having this? Or your gtg now? If not sounds like you need to clean/chase the old thread that the bolt broke in if all the others are working
#5
Can you give me some ideas on what it might be? I'm assuming worst case for whatever reason a gasket got moved somehow when putting the intake on to the block and there's a leak, however that seems unlike as the gasket is fairly thick and I feel like the intake would not have set into place properly if that was the case?
#6
Drifting
Possibly the small black straw sized vacuum tube at the back of the manifold did not get plugged into the manifold pressure sensor on the back of the manifold.
There are a couple of vacuum connections on a black plastic corrugated tube snaking above the drivers side valve cover.
Check all vacuum connections, including the brake boost hose.
There are a couple of vacuum connections on a black plastic corrugated tube snaking above the drivers side valve cover.
Check all vacuum connections, including the brake boost hose.
#7
Funny you say that, as I was just looking through some pictures of removing the manifold online. That small black hose showed up and I really think I forgot to plug it back in.
Safe to drive it 20 miles?
Before I can get back under the hood?
Safe to drive it 20 miles?
Before I can get back under the hood?
#8
Also any suggestions to plugging that back in without removing the manifold again?
Thinking about cutting a chunk of that firewall out. I've got some fiber glass I could patch it back up with and it sit under the cowl
Thinking about cutting a chunk of that firewall out. I've got some fiber glass I could patch it back up with and it sit under the cowl
#9
Drifting
I do not know about driving it. It will run somewhat lean and set a code most likely.
I am not a fan of cutting the cowl area.
It took me 2-1/2 hours to change my sensor, but now having done that, it won't take me very long next time and next time I will put in a relocation kit.
You are getting good at removing the manifold now, just take it off again, it won't take that long.
I am not a fan of cutting the cowl area.
It took me 2-1/2 hours to change my sensor, but now having done that, it won't take me very long next time and next time I will put in a relocation kit.
You are getting good at removing the manifold now, just take it off again, it won't take that long.
#11
You can reach back there from the passengers side and re-plug it. I have huge hands and could do it, I just had to contort my hand/body/arm in ways they shouldn't go to get to it. The fun part is getting your hand back out
#13
Suggestions plugging this wire back in? It seems like there is virtually no slack in the line. Its hot, my hands are sweaty, It starts to go into the sensor but im not sure it is in far enough?
#14
It slips into an "L" shaped boot, just kinda slides in. There's no slack you're correct. I used my middle and pointer finger and grabbed the line between the 2 fingers and pushed as much as I could into the boot. You'll know it's in there far enough when your AC vents switch correctly
#15
So maybe I need a new thread for this but I've got everything back together and everything seems to be functioning.
However it appears I have lost power? First gear seems to be a little lagging on hard accel. And once I shift to second it's like I lose the ability to accelerate untill I hit 4500rpms. Any ideas?
I will pull codes at lunch.
However it appears I have lost power? First gear seems to be a little lagging on hard accel. And once I shift to second it's like I lose the ability to accelerate untill I hit 4500rpms. Any ideas?
I will pull codes at lunch.
#16
Race Director
So maybe I need a new thread for this but I've got everything back together and everything seems to be functioning.
However it appears I have lost power? First gear seems to be a little lagging on hard accel. And once I shift to second it's like I lose the ability to accelerate untill I hit 4500rpms. Any ideas?
I will pull codes at lunch.
However it appears I have lost power? First gear seems to be a little lagging on hard accel. And once I shift to second it's like I lose the ability to accelerate untill I hit 4500rpms. Any ideas?
I will pull codes at lunch.
#17
My first thought would be a vacuum leak. You should check the line that runs from the driver's side, behind the intake, and around the passenger side to the TB. You can use a can of carb cleaner to spray the hose while the car is running. If you get a surge the carb cleaner has found a hole.
The codes I pulled are as follows
58 SDM b1001 h option configuration error
10 PCM p0113 h air intake sensor circuit high voltage
10 PCM p1111 h intake air temp sensor circuit intermittent high voltage
BO RFA c2120 HC tpms malfunction
Last edited by Galler; 08-21-2014 at 02:15 PM.
#19
After pulling the battery ground off last night I let it sit for roughly ten minutes and then hooked her back up.
Viola! Working perfectly
Until I was a mile from my house of course on the way home today. I had a semi fast acceleration from a light, and right around 3000-4000 rpms in first gear I felt it bog down like it was struggling again. 2nd was a little off was well.
Ran codes when I got home, the only one showing up now is the
Bo RFA C2120 H C (which is the TPMS code) shouldn't have anything to do with my engine issue, going to go back over all the vacuum lines soon, maybe I am missing one, The one recommended above that wraps around the back of the manifold and to the passenger side of the throttle body seems to be in working order.
Viola! Working perfectly
Until I was a mile from my house of course on the way home today. I had a semi fast acceleration from a light, and right around 3000-4000 rpms in first gear I felt it bog down like it was struggling again. 2nd was a little off was well.
Ran codes when I got home, the only one showing up now is the
Bo RFA C2120 H C (which is the TPMS code) shouldn't have anything to do with my engine issue, going to go back over all the vacuum lines soon, maybe I am missing one, The one recommended above that wraps around the back of the manifold and to the passenger side of the throttle body seems to be in working order.
#20
Race Director
After pulling the battery ground off last night I let it sit for roughly ten minutes and then hooked her back up.
Viola! Working perfectly
Until I was a mile from my house of course on the way home today. I had a semi fast acceleration from a light, and right around 3000-4000 rpms in first gear I felt it bog down like it was struggling again. 2nd was a little off was well.
Ran codes when I got home, the only one showing up now is the
Bo RFA C2120 H C (which is the TPMS code) shouldn't have anything to do with my engine issue, going to go back over all the vacuum lines soon, maybe I am missing one, The one recommended above that wraps around the back of the manifold and to the passenger side of the throttle body seems to be in working order.
Viola! Working perfectly
Until I was a mile from my house of course on the way home today. I had a semi fast acceleration from a light, and right around 3000-4000 rpms in first gear I felt it bog down like it was struggling again. 2nd was a little off was well.
Ran codes when I got home, the only one showing up now is the
Bo RFA C2120 H C (which is the TPMS code) shouldn't have anything to do with my engine issue, going to go back over all the vacuum lines soon, maybe I am missing one, The one recommended above that wraps around the back of the manifold and to the passenger side of the throttle body seems to be in working order.