Replacing Passenger Side Air Check Valve
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Replacing Passenger Side Air Check Valve
Hi guys, I am replacing the air check valve on my passenger side due to the P1416 code.
As I understand it, you just pop off the intake and the valve should be exposed behind the engine. Is that right?
Any special steps or tools I should be aware of so I don't lose time discovering it later and losing time?
Here is a pic I found of the valve doing a Google search:
Thanks,
As I understand it, you just pop off the intake and the valve should be exposed behind the engine. Is that right?
Any special steps or tools I should be aware of so I don't lose time discovering it later and losing time?
Here is a pic I found of the valve doing a Google search:
Thanks,
#3
Le Mans Master
You are correct. Just make sure you don't break or damage the vacuum lines. In particular the tiny one for the HVAC.
Some people just reroute it so they don't have to remove the intake. I have that link info. I personally try to keep things looking original so I would not do it but technically there is nothing wrong with rerouting.
Some people just reroute it so they don't have to remove the intake. I have that link info. I personally try to keep things looking original so I would not do it but technically there is nothing wrong with rerouting.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
So I've been reading that you can shoot some WD40 into one of the airlines to cure a stuck valve. Does anyone know how much WD40 is a good amount and how much is too much?
Any risks involved?
Any risks involved?
#5
Melting Slicks
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WD-40 method does not work, or only for a few miles. The crud in the valve is as hard as concrete.
You must remove the intake and replace the valve, and that is the best time to reroute the system.
You must remove the intake and replace the valve, and that is the best time to reroute the system.
#7
You do have to remove the intake, its easy the hardest part for me was disconnecting the injectors and fuel lines. Its listed as a valve and the GM part # is 22040805, at the time I could not find one that would fit at any of the part houses..
#8
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Got the P1416 code a few months ago and squirted some carb/choke cleaner into the t- fitting on the drivers side and then used my air compressor to blow it over to the passenger side valve...let it sit for 30 minutes or so....deleted the code with my scanner and haven't had it come back since !!
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Got the P1416 code a few months ago and squirted some carb/choke cleaner into the t- fitting on the drivers side and then used my air compressor to blow it over to the passenger side valve...let it sit for 30 minutes or so....deleted the code with my scanner and haven't had it come back since !!
#10
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I think I sprayed it in there for a good 10 seconds...the t is on the drivers side which goes over to the passenger side valve....it's a bitch to change the valve but you'll find on the forum how to install the valve an "alternate" way !!...let me know if its works....I think I might have sprayed it twice !!
#11
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Just spray it into the disconnected hose (sorry, it's not a tee there) on the right ( located near the alternator) which will goes over to the passenger side valve !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; 05-31-2014 at 01:08 AM.
#12
Le Mans Master
Got the P1416 code a few months ago and squirted some carb/choke cleaner into the t- fitting on the drivers side and then used my air compressor to blow it over to the passenger side valve...let it sit for 30 minutes or so....deleted the code with my scanner and haven't had it come back since !!
#13
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#14
Race Director
you can get rid of the code on the DIC with a c5
but your scantool will work too
anyway, clear the code and drive, sometimes that code will pop up and then not come back for years if ever. mine popped up last year, shot some carb cleaner down the tube, drove, hasn't been back in over 5k miles. no clue if the carb cleaner did anything really as that stuff is baked on
but your scantool will work too
anyway, clear the code and drive, sometimes that code will pop up and then not come back for years if ever. mine popped up last year, shot some carb cleaner down the tube, drove, hasn't been back in over 5k miles. no clue if the carb cleaner did anything really as that stuff is baked on
#15
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you can get rid of the code on the DIC with a c5
but your scantool will work too
anyway, clear the code and drive, sometimes that code will pop up and then not come back for years if ever. mine popped up last year, shot some carb cleaner down the tube, drove, hasn't been back in over 5k miles. no clue if the carb cleaner did anything really as that stuff is baked on
but your scantool will work too
anyway, clear the code and drive, sometimes that code will pop up and then not come back for years if ever. mine popped up last year, shot some carb cleaner down the tube, drove, hasn't been back in over 5k miles. no clue if the carb cleaner did anything really as that stuff is baked on
#16
Race Director
You're saying you can clear a "check engine" light on my C5 DIC ?...I believe that won't work unless the problem is resolved and the light goes out after a few drive cycles at which time it will be stored in "history" or is cleared by the OBD 2 scanner. I've driven maybe 2000 miles since it happened and it hasn't come back since !!
codes are C or H for current or history, if the fault is still there it will obviously reset but a fixed issue can be reset on the DIC without using the scan tool. this is the only car i've ever owned that allows a person to do that
you also had the same thing happen i did, reset and it hasn't come back, mine came right after i did the oil pressure sending unit, i was like &*^^&*^^ it, what timing
#17
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no, you really can, with the reset button, i've done it.
codes are C or H for current or history, if the fault is still there it will obviously reset but a fixed issue can be reset on the DIC without using the scan tool. this is the only car i've ever owned that allows a person to do that
you also had the same thing happen i did, reset and it hasn't come back, mine came right after i did the oil pressure sending unit, i was like &*^^&*^^ it, what timing
codes are C or H for current or history, if the fault is still there it will obviously reset but a fixed issue can be reset on the DIC without using the scan tool. this is the only car i've ever owned that allows a person to do that
you also had the same thing happen i did, reset and it hasn't come back, mine came right after i did the oil pressure sending unit, i was like &*^^&*^^ it, what timing
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
Ok guys... decided against replacing the valve and did the following:
Disconnected the air tube pictured above and did the following:
- Sprayed carb cleaner for about 2-3sec
- Hit that with compressed air
- Sprayed WD40 for about 6 seconds
- Hit that with compressed air
- Cleared the code (P1416)
Let's see what happens...
Thanks for the help guys!
Luke
Disconnected the air tube pictured above and did the following:
- Sprayed carb cleaner for about 2-3sec
- Hit that with compressed air
- Sprayed WD40 for about 6 seconds
- Hit that with compressed air
- Cleared the code (P1416)
Let's see what happens...
Thanks for the help guys!
Luke
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
I did the carb cleaner/WD40 "trick"
The check-engine light would show up every 40-50 miles with the P1416 code. After the executing the "trick" I'm getting the P1416 every 5 miles or so unfortunately.
It seems to have worked well for some people but didn't work for me so I'll have to replace the valve.
As I understand it, the intake will have to come off (I have replacement gaskets already). Besides normal hand-tools, is there anything out of the ordinary that is needed? For example, is the plastic hose clamp re-usable?
Thanks,
Luke
I did the carb cleaner/WD40 "trick"
The check-engine light would show up every 40-50 miles with the P1416 code. After the executing the "trick" I'm getting the P1416 every 5 miles or so unfortunately.
It seems to have worked well for some people but didn't work for me so I'll have to replace the valve.
As I understand it, the intake will have to come off (I have replacement gaskets already). Besides normal hand-tools, is there anything out of the ordinary that is needed? For example, is the plastic hose clamp re-usable?
Thanks,
Luke