Ran out of fuel with 1/2 Tank on Gauge
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Ran out of fuel with 1/2 Tank on Gauge
This happened to me today. I noticed I didnt hear the fuel pump and more so I added a gallon or two and that fixed it. I then filled it up and it only took another 8-9 gallons. There is most likely an issue with my jet/siphon pump from my reading on here. I am still a bit confused though.
My car is a 2002 model, is there a write up on how to clean this? I also though that if there was an issue the fuel gauge would drop to empty to warn you, mine didn't.
What is the best and/or easiest way to remedy this issue?
My car is a 2002 model, is there a write up on how to clean this? I also though that if there was an issue the fuel gauge would drop to empty to warn you, mine didn't.
What is the best and/or easiest way to remedy this issue?
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ijakie1 (01-11-2024)
#2
Team Owner
This happened to me today. I noticed I didnt hear the fuel pump and more so I added a gallon or two and that fixed it. I then filled it up and it only took another 8-9 gallons. There is most likely an issue with my jet/siphon pump from my reading on here. I am still a bit confused though.
My car is a 2002 model, is there a write up on how to clean this? I also though that if there was an issue the fuel gauge would drop to empty to warn you, mine didn't.
What is the best and/or easiest way to remedy this issue?
My car is a 2002 model, is there a write up on how to clean this? I also though that if there was an issue the fuel gauge would drop to empty to warn you, mine didn't.
What is the best and/or easiest way to remedy this issue?
HTH
#4
Team Owner
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ijakie1 (01-11-2024)
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Do I need to drop the tank to replace it? Is there a write up anywhere or at least a way to drain some of the gas out before I try to support 40+lbs of fuel as well as the tank?
Any suggestions on where the best deal is for the unit or places/brands to avoid so Im not doing this again in another year?
Any suggestions on where the best deal is for the unit or places/brands to avoid so Im not doing this again in another year?
The following users liked this post:
ijakie1 (01-11-2024)
#8
Burning Brakes
Depends upon the year as to whether you need to drop the tank. Before mid year 2003 the tank had an access panel that can be removed to access the siphon pump. If the car is a late year 2003 or 2004, then the tank MUST be dropped to access the jet siphon. (Fuel system FFS)
http://www.hessh.de/Corvette/FuelTankSystem.pdf
http://www.hessh.de/Corvette/FuelTankSystem.pdf
#9
Team Owner
Do I need to drop the tank to replace it? Is there a write up anywhere or at least a way to drain some of the gas out before I try to support 40+lbs of fuel as well as the tank?
Any suggestions on where the best deal is for the unit or places/brands to avoid so Im not doing this again in another year?
Any suggestions on where the best deal is for the unit or places/brands to avoid so Im not doing this again in another year?
Be SURE to follow the correct procedure for tightening the flange bolts on the new unit and DO NOT over-tighten. The new unit may require some snaking and twisting to get it in, so take your time and don't force anything. Some kits may come with special "breakaway" bolts, so you won't need a torque wrench, as the heads are designed to snap off when proper torque is reached. If not, use a torque wrench set for INCH-POUNDS. This info is in the instruction sheet. I would also recommend reaching inside the tank with some clean rags/toweling first, and give the bottom area a good wipe before installing the new unit in case there's any debris. The hole is about 4" - 5" so you can easily look inside to inspect as well as reach in. You want it as spotlessly clean as possible naturally.
I would feel perfectly safe in using any one of the brand names I posted. They are all good quality, but just shop around for the best prices. Amazon, Rock Auto, Jeg's, Summit, Pace Perfomance, etc, maybe even Scoggin-Dickey. I would think Amazon will likely have the best price or maybe even Ebay. The current GM part number is: 89047748 if you **gulp** decide to buy from a GM dealer.
The key is: shop around. I'm guessing AC Delco will be the best price.
Last edited by LoneStarFRC; 04-25-2014 at 01:02 AM.
#11
Racer
I also ran out of fuel about 2 weeks ago (2001 Vert, 36k miles, owned 3 months).
The last gage reading I remember was about 1/3, and I never got any DIC reminders to refuel before it suddenly sputtered to a stop. Checked everything: Fuses, relay, squirted the rails, etc, etc,, never really heard the fuel pump either, but I also didn't smell fuel at the tailpipe after cranking it for awhile so I knew it was a fuel delivery problem.
I think mine was a gage problem (not a transfer problem) because of the amount of fuel it eventually took to fill it up.
But if I were you I would try TECHTRON and really good premium gas fill-ups a few times - - Just run it to half-tank and refill. Maybe carry a Jug and run the car below half full as you gain confidence. That's what I'm doing and so far so good.
You got nothing to lose. It's a lot cheaper than throwing parts at it. You can even find some DIY's on blowing out those gas lines too.
Maybe you'll get lucky and enough of the treatment will get over to the 2nd tank to free-up your plugged Jet/Siphon system....
Like I said, you got nothing to lose. I'm about to go on another TECHTRON shopping trip myself!
The last gage reading I remember was about 1/3, and I never got any DIC reminders to refuel before it suddenly sputtered to a stop. Checked everything: Fuses, relay, squirted the rails, etc, etc,, never really heard the fuel pump either, but I also didn't smell fuel at the tailpipe after cranking it for awhile so I knew it was a fuel delivery problem.
I think mine was a gage problem (not a transfer problem) because of the amount of fuel it eventually took to fill it up.
But if I were you I would try TECHTRON and really good premium gas fill-ups a few times - - Just run it to half-tank and refill. Maybe carry a Jug and run the car below half full as you gain confidence. That's what I'm doing and so far so good.
You got nothing to lose. It's a lot cheaper than throwing parts at it. You can even find some DIY's on blowing out those gas lines too.
Maybe you'll get lucky and enough of the treatment will get over to the 2nd tank to free-up your plugged Jet/Siphon system....
Like I said, you got nothing to lose. I'm about to go on another TECHTRON shopping trip myself!
#12
Team Owner
I also ran out of fuel about 2 weeks ago (2001 Vert, 36k miles, owned 3 months).
The last gage reading I remember was about 1/3, and I never got any DIC reminders to refuel before it suddenly sputtered to a stop. Checked everything: Fuses, relay, squirted the rails, etc, etc,, never really heard the fuel pump either, but I also didn't smell fuel at the tailpipe after cranking it for awhile so I knew it was a fuel delivery problem.
I think mine was a gage problem (not a transfer problem) because of the amount of fuel it eventually took to fill it up.
But if I were you I would try TECHTRON and really good premium gas fill-ups a few times - - Just run it to half-tank and refill. Maybe carry a Jug and run the car below half full as you gain confidence. That's what I'm doing and so far so good.
You got nothing to lose. It's a lot cheaper than throwing parts at it. You can even find some DIY's on blowing out those gas lines too.
Maybe you'll get lucky and enough of the treatment will get over to the 2nd tank to free-up your plugged Jet/Siphon system....
Like I said, you got nothing to lose. I'm about to go on another TECHTRON shopping trip myself!
The last gage reading I remember was about 1/3, and I never got any DIC reminders to refuel before it suddenly sputtered to a stop. Checked everything: Fuses, relay, squirted the rails, etc, etc,, never really heard the fuel pump either, but I also didn't smell fuel at the tailpipe after cranking it for awhile so I knew it was a fuel delivery problem.
I think mine was a gage problem (not a transfer problem) because of the amount of fuel it eventually took to fill it up.
But if I were you I would try TECHTRON and really good premium gas fill-ups a few times - - Just run it to half-tank and refill. Maybe carry a Jug and run the car below half full as you gain confidence. That's what I'm doing and so far so good.
You got nothing to lose. It's a lot cheaper than throwing parts at it. You can even find some DIY's on blowing out those gas lines too.
Maybe you'll get lucky and enough of the treatment will get over to the 2nd tank to free-up your plugged Jet/Siphon system....
Like I said, you got nothing to lose. I'm about to go on another TECHTRON shopping trip myself!
#13
Racer
I think I'm understanding well enough. But I think you're not reading well what I wrote.... I wrote about his plugged jet siphon (transfer) problem and blowing out the lines.... how much clearer do I need to be?
Are you asserting that gas treatments and blowing out the lines will NEVER EVER fix a clogged or restricted .050" siphon orifice without replacing parts? I don't think anyone can claim that.
all I said was its worth a try.... geeze
Are you asserting that gas treatments and blowing out the lines will NEVER EVER fix a clogged or restricted .050" siphon orifice without replacing parts? I don't think anyone can claim that.
all I said was its worth a try.... geeze
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,847
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ttt
What is your fuel pump pressure in the car. If your pump drops pressure below 45 to 50 psi. the pump will not transfer gas from the drivers side to the pass side tank. Which will let the car read the 1/2 tank but also run out of gas.
You have a pump in the drivers side tank that pump gas over into the pass/side that keeps both tank level at all times. But if the fuel pressures drop below above psi this will not happen. Robert
You have a pump in the drivers side tank that pump gas over into the pass/side that keeps both tank level at all times. But if the fuel pressures drop below above psi this will not happen. Robert
#15
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,847
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That's not at all how the system works.
.....
* There are two tanks .... each tank has a fuel sender that reports the fuel level to the PCM. The PCM calculates the fuel level based on the info from the two senders and reports that calculated "single tank" level to the IPC which displays it on the fuel gauge.
* The right tank has a "jet siphon" pump in it, the left tank has an electric pump. When the engine is running, the fuel rail is fed by the left tank electric pump. Just after the left pump pressurizes the fuel, there is a line that feeds some of that pressurized fuel into the right siphon pump. The siphon pump has a line that carries the siphoned fuel to the left tank. Both tanks are connected, at the tops of the tanks, by a large diameter "fuel crossover" line which is how the right tank gets fueled ... once the left tank is full during fueling the fuel then crosses over to the right tank, filling it.
* With the engine running more fuel is fed from the right tank than is being taken out of the left tank, so the excess fuel flows back to the right tank via the crossover pipe.
* The "normal" behaviour the PCM expects to see after the tanks are filled is as follows .... the right tank should drain while the left tank remains full. Once the right tank is empty then the left tank should drain. The PCM also knows that the fuel level in either tank should drop as the car is driven a certain distance ..... say 150 miles.
* If the PCM does not see "normal" behaviour (such as the car driving 150 miles and neither sender has moved) then it will set DTC for things like a stuck sender (no movement in 150 miles) or a bad siphon jet pump (the left tank is draining before the right tank) .... or whatever. A P1431 is an example of the codes than can be set.
If you read through the link I provided in post #9 you will see the detailed operation.
.....
* There are two tanks .... each tank has a fuel sender that reports the fuel level to the PCM. The PCM calculates the fuel level based on the info from the two senders and reports that calculated "single tank" level to the IPC which displays it on the fuel gauge.
* The right tank has a "jet siphon" pump in it, the left tank has an electric pump. When the engine is running, the fuel rail is fed by the left tank electric pump. Just after the left pump pressurizes the fuel, there is a line that feeds some of that pressurized fuel into the right siphon pump. The siphon pump has a line that carries the siphoned fuel to the left tank. Both tanks are connected, at the tops of the tanks, by a large diameter "fuel crossover" line which is how the right tank gets fueled ... once the left tank is full during fueling the fuel then crosses over to the right tank, filling it.
* With the engine running more fuel is fed from the right tank than is being taken out of the left tank, so the excess fuel flows back to the right tank via the crossover pipe.
* The "normal" behaviour the PCM expects to see after the tanks are filled is as follows .... the right tank should drain while the left tank remains full. Once the right tank is empty then the left tank should drain. The PCM also knows that the fuel level in either tank should drop as the car is driven a certain distance ..... say 150 miles.
* If the PCM does not see "normal" behaviour (such as the car driving 150 miles and neither sender has moved) then it will set DTC for things like a stuck sender (no movement in 150 miles) or a bad siphon jet pump (the left tank is draining before the right tank) .... or whatever. A P1431 is an example of the codes than can be set.
If you read through the link I provided in post #9 you will see the detailed operation.
#16
#17
Le Mans Master
I don't want to get into details, BUT, if you want to FIX your problem
you need to listen to:
LoneStarFRC
65GGvert
and-
8VETTE7
These are great tech guys. Just say'n. Mr. Sam
PS: Techron is a great product but it is intended for level sensors that are fouled or to prevent fouling.
you need to listen to:
LoneStarFRC
65GGvert
and-
8VETTE7
These are great tech guys. Just say'n. Mr. Sam
PS: Techron is a great product but it is intended for level sensors that are fouled or to prevent fouling.
#18
Team Owner
I don't want to get into details, BUT, if you want to FIX your problem
you need to listen to:
LoneStarFRC
65GGvert
and-
8VETTE7
These are great tech guys. Just say'n. Mr. Sam
PS: Techron is a great product but it is intended for level sensors that are fouled or to prevent fouling.
you need to listen to:
LoneStarFRC
65GGvert
and-
8VETTE7
These are great tech guys. Just say'n. Mr. Sam
PS: Techron is a great product but it is intended for level sensors that are fouled or to prevent fouling.
The following users liked this post:
ijakie1 (01-11-2024)
#19
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,847
Received 1,762 Likes
on
1,529 Posts
No need to drop the tank on your year model. There are a couple ways to get remaining fuel out, but trying to use your left-tank electric pump probably won't be of much help if it's unable to transfer fuel from the right tank in the first place. Since there are only two hose fittings (and one electrical connector for the sending unit inside) on the right tank, you could quickly release one of the two (no tool needed) and have a section of clear vinyl fuel hose (5/16" IIRC) at the ready to equally quickly push on to the nipple, then let it drain into a (preferably clean) container. You can use regular black fuel hose of course, I just prefer the clear stuff. One fitting/hose is a supply (from the left tank) and the other is a return (back to the left tank). Depending on the fuel level inside, if you get little or no flow, connect your hose to the other one. Even when the flow stops, you will have some small amount of residual fuel remaining, probably on the order of less than half a gallon, so have a pan or wide mouth catch-can ready for when you unbolt the six flange retaining bolts. Once you get that far, the worst is over. If you want, you can try driving the car some to lower the fuel level first, but don't get too carried away and run out of gas again unless you have a small gas can with you.
Be SURE to follow the correct procedure for tightening the flange bolts on the new unit and DO NOT over-tighten. The new unit may require some snaking and twisting to get it in, so take your time and don't force anything. Some kits may come with special "breakaway" bolts, so you won't need a torque wrench, as the heads are designed to snap off when proper torque is reached. If not, use a torque wrench set for INCH-POUNDS. This info is in the instruction sheet. I would also recommend reaching inside the tank with some clean rags/toweling first, and give the bottom area a good wipe before installing the new unit in case there's any debris. The hole is about 4" - 5" so you can easily look inside to inspect as well as reach in. You want it as spotlessly clean as possible naturally.
I would feel perfectly safe in using any one of the brand names I posted. They are all good quality, but just shop around for the best prices. Amazon, Rock Auto, Jeg's, Summit, Pace Performance, etc, maybe even Scoggins-Dickey. I would think Amazon will likely have the best price or maybe even E-bay. The current GM part number is: 89047748 if you **gulp** decide to buy from a GM dealer.
The key is: shop around. I'm guessing AC Delco will be the best price.
Be SURE to follow the correct procedure for tightening the flange bolts on the new unit and DO NOT over-tighten. The new unit may require some snaking and twisting to get it in, so take your time and don't force anything. Some kits may come with special "breakaway" bolts, so you won't need a torque wrench, as the heads are designed to snap off when proper torque is reached. If not, use a torque wrench set for INCH-POUNDS. This info is in the instruction sheet. I would also recommend reaching inside the tank with some clean rags/toweling first, and give the bottom area a good wipe before installing the new unit in case there's any debris. The hole is about 4" - 5" so you can easily look inside to inspect as well as reach in. You want it as spotlessly clean as possible naturally.
I would feel perfectly safe in using any one of the brand names I posted. They are all good quality, but just shop around for the best prices. Amazon, Rock Auto, Jeg's, Summit, Pace Performance, etc, maybe even Scoggins-Dickey. I would think Amazon will likely have the best price or maybe even E-bay. The current GM part number is: 89047748 if you **gulp** decide to buy from a GM dealer.
The key is: shop around. I'm guessing AC Delco will be the best price.
#20
Team Owner
Thanks RM. Unfortunately for me, it was a bad experience several years ago with this very issue, that caused me to have to learn so much about the C5 fuel system. You know what they say about experience - especially the bad ones - sometimes being a harsh but effective teacher.