AC compressor change. Is it possible to replace comp have shop do freon?
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
AC compressor change. Is it possible to replace comp have shop do freon?
I need to change my compressor on my 2004 and it looks doable. But I'd like to avoid the evac pump, gauge, system cleaning/drying charging crap.
Is it possible to replace all of the hardware, then drive to a shop and have them dry and charge?
Is it possible to replace all of the hardware, then drive to a shop and have them dry and charge?
Last edited by TJefferson2020; 01-20-2014 at 08:46 PM.
#2
Burning Brakes
Sure and if you don't/didn't leave the system "open" to long you would not need to replace the dryer( I think that is what you referenced) but as cheap as they are you might consider doing it on a 10 year old car. But most shops are going to want to evac the system down and you should want them to. It makes sure there is no moisture in the system and that's the only way to get a full charge. Worst case should be a 100 bucks or less.
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Sure and if you don't/didn't leave the system "open" to long you would not need to replace the dryer( I think that is what you referenced) but as cheap as they are you might consider doing it on a 10 year old car. But most shops are going to want to evac the system down and you should want them to. It makes sure there is no moisture in the system and that's the only way to get a full charge. Worst case should be a 100 bucks or less.
I'm going to replace the compressor, inline filter, dryer and maybe the drive belt. I don't want to be going in there twice. At the same time, I don't want the dealer touching it, or the local grease monkeys.
Plus, I figure I should learn how to work on it anyway. It has 60k miles on it so I expect some issues.
I built a 64 from the ground up, but that's a totally different deal.
#4
Burning Brakes
All depends on what failed and what got into the system...
the AC compressor will not activate when driving if the system is empty (Clutch will be disengaged). if you replace it i would suggest getting:
* New Seals between all connections
* New Orifice tube (Extreme climate.. make colder at idle)
* Compressor (recommend OEM or Delphi)
* Reciever Dryer
* A/C Belt (while its off anyway)
Then blow the sytem clean (backwords so you dont push anything into the condensor... Evac (vac), test and recharge with Freon AND correct type/ammount of OIL.
When my compressor failed in my bonneville it shot metal shavings threw the entire system... mixed with the oil in the system and turned to goop.. the Orific tube was pluged with metal good.. did all above and good for 2yrs so far.
S
the AC compressor will not activate when driving if the system is empty (Clutch will be disengaged). if you replace it i would suggest getting:
* New Seals between all connections
* New Orifice tube (Extreme climate.. make colder at idle)
* Compressor (recommend OEM or Delphi)
* Reciever Dryer
* A/C Belt (while its off anyway)
Then blow the sytem clean (backwords so you dont push anything into the condensor... Evac (vac), test and recharge with Freon AND correct type/ammount of OIL.
When my compressor failed in my bonneville it shot metal shavings threw the entire system... mixed with the oil in the system and turned to goop.. the Orific tube was pluged with metal good.. did all above and good for 2yrs so far.
S
#5
Pro
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: Dayton, Oregon
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Oldtimer
Sounds like you're concerned about running the compressor "dry". The system will not engage the compressor clutch without enough refrigerant pressure. Put it together, belt and all, the shop will need to run it as part of their fill/checkout process, it can't "accidentally" start even if you tried.
What he said while I was typing
What he said while I was typing
#6
Melting Slicks
Yes you can replace it and drive it to a shop and have them charge the system. When you crack the line off the compressor tape the ends shut, that will help prevent any moisture from getting inside. The compressor is not difficult to remove, helps to have a lift to access the lower mounting bolts from the passenger wheel well. IIRC the water pump will need to be removed for access, might want to consider replacing it as well as the thermostat.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys! Looks like my evil plan will work. I need to make a list of the parts now and get them ordered. No lift (I wish) so
Didn't know the compressor would not kick in with an empty system - good idea on the part of GM (that's one...)
I've let it go too long - when the compressor starts it actually drags the engine down... :scared:
Funny thing is that the defroster is connected to the compressor. It runs no matter what the temp setting is.
Didn't know the compressor would not kick in with an empty system - good idea on the part of GM (that's one...)
I've let it go too long - when the compressor starts it actually drags the engine down... :scared:
Funny thing is that the defroster is connected to the compressor. It runs no matter what the temp setting is.
#11
Advanced
Thanks, guys! Looks like my evil plan will work. I need to make a list of the parts now and get them ordered. No lift (I wish) so
Didn't know the compressor would not kick in with an empty system - good idea on the part of GM (that's one...)
I've let it go too long - when the compressor starts it actually drags the engine down... :scared:
Funny thing is that the defroster is connected to the compressor. It runs no matter what the temp setting is.
Didn't know the compressor would not kick in with an empty system - good idea on the part of GM (that's one...)
I've let it go too long - when the compressor starts it actually drags the engine down... :scared:
Funny thing is that the defroster is connected to the compressor. It runs no matter what the temp setting is.