How hard is it to replace shocks on a C5?
06-23-2013, 10:05 AM
#21
Safety Car
when I did mine on my 03 z06 swapped them out to the 2012 c6 z06 shocks from gm partshouse, I tried the zip tie method but it was to hard..i ended up buying a cheap ratchet tie down from wally world and used that to compress the shocks.worked like a charm and gave me complete control on setting the shock into its base
06-23-2013, 10:36 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
I did mine twice (C5 Z51 shocks, Koni FSD shocks=current)
I does not take that long, just work slow and easy and careful using safety equipment (gloves,goggles etc.)
After you are done you would be able to cut the time in half and then a third time you are an expert!
Thanks,Matt
I does not take that long, just work slow and easy and careful using safety equipment (gloves,goggles etc.)
After you are done you would be able to cut the time in half and then a third time you are an expert!
Thanks,Matt
06-23-2013, 01:14 PM
#24
Team Owner
Easy job. I looped a piece of wire around the compressed shocks before I installed them and then cut the wire so did not have any trouble trying to keep them compressed while installing.I have since replaced them with coil-overs which was easy also.
06-23-2013, 01:34 PM
#25
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Note that if you are replacing with Bilsteins, the front shocks (top shaft end) do not have a "flat", but have an Allen head recess in the end of the shaft.
Edit: I did not look carefully (see my below post). The windshield and coolant resevoirs could of been loosened or removed to gain access to the top of the shocks.
Also, I replaced the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride shocks (leaking after 30K miles) with the Bilstein Sports, and both the old F55 & new Bilstein shocks are gas pressurized so that the vehicle hgt. did not change at all (I was concerned that I would see a change). Am very pleased with the ride results:
Essentially have the same ride & and better control with the Bilstein Sports
compared with the F55 set on "Sport" (I always used the "Sport" setting, "Touring" was way too soft & wallowing for me) to the point that I don't notice that the shocks have been changed, except when hitting a bump or pot hole. The F55 use to depress & dip more on jounce, and occasionally the front end would scrape the road. I do not have that issue with the Bilsteins.
Plasticman
Edit: I did not look carefully (see my below post). The windshield and coolant resevoirs could of been loosened or removed to gain access to the top of the shocks.
Also, I replaced the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride shocks (leaking after 30K miles) with the Bilstein Sports, and both the old F55 & new Bilstein shocks are gas pressurized so that the vehicle hgt. did not change at all (I was concerned that I would see a change). Am very pleased with the ride results:
Essentially have the same ride & and better control with the Bilstein Sports
compared with the F55 set on "Sport" (I always used the "Sport" setting, "Touring" was way too soft & wallowing for me) to the point that I don't notice that the shocks have been changed, except when hitting a bump or pot hole. The F55 use to depress & dip more on jounce, and occasionally the front end would scrape the road. I do not have that issue with the Bilsteins.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 06-23-2013 at 09:43 PM.
06-23-2013, 01:39 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
Note that if you are replacing with Bilsteins, the front shocks (top shaft end) do not have a "flat", but have an Allen head recess in the end of the shaft, but the installed location of the top of the shock in the C5 does not allow room for an Allen wrench. To compound that, the nuts they supply are Nylock (locking) nuts. In other words, when trying to tighten the nut, the shaft will turn, and with no way to hold the shaft, we have a problem.
I solved it by running a tap through the supplied Nylock nut, which cuts some of the nylon locking material away, and allows the nut to partially thread on, but still retains enough nylon to act as a locknut. However, as I tightened the nut further, the shaft still began to rotate.
I then put a couple of "extra" nut on the top of the exposed end of the shaft, and "double nutted" them, giving me a method of holding the shaft with another open end wrench, while tightening the Nylock nut. Once it was fully tightened, I loosened and removed the 2 "extra" nuts.
Also, I replaced the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride shocks (leaking after 30K miles) with the Bilstein Sports, and both the old F55 & new Bilstein shocks are gas pressurized so that the vehicle hgt. did not change at all (I was concerned that I would see a change). Am very pleased with the ride results:
Essentially have the same ride & and better control with the Bilstein Sports
compared with the F55 set on "Sport" (I always used the "Sport" setting, "Touring" was way too soft & wallowing for me) to the point that I don't notice that the shocks have been changed, except when hitting a bump or pot hole. The F55 use to depress & dip more on jounce, and occasionally the front end would scrape the road. I do not have that issue with the Bilsteins.
Plasticman
I solved it by running a tap through the supplied Nylock nut, which cuts some of the nylon locking material away, and allows the nut to partially thread on, but still retains enough nylon to act as a locknut. However, as I tightened the nut further, the shaft still began to rotate.
I then put a couple of "extra" nut on the top of the exposed end of the shaft, and "double nutted" them, giving me a method of holding the shaft with another open end wrench, while tightening the Nylock nut. Once it was fully tightened, I loosened and removed the 2 "extra" nuts.
Also, I replaced the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride shocks (leaking after 30K miles) with the Bilstein Sports, and both the old F55 & new Bilstein shocks are gas pressurized so that the vehicle hgt. did not change at all (I was concerned that I would see a change). Am very pleased with the ride results:
Essentially have the same ride & and better control with the Bilstein Sports
compared with the F55 set on "Sport" (I always used the "Sport" setting, "Touring" was way too soft & wallowing for me) to the point that I don't notice that the shocks have been changed, except when hitting a bump or pot hole. The F55 use to depress & dip more on jounce, and occasionally the front end would scrape the road. I do not have that issue with the Bilsteins.
Plasticman
06-23-2013, 09:38 PM
#27
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My "method" worked, but I should of looked better. Also, the Bilstein "instructions" are totally useless..........
Plasticman
06-24-2013, 02:11 PM
#30
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Once I had pulled out the F55 shocks, I was riding around with the dreaded "80 mph max. speed" warning every 10 minutes (use the "reset" button to shut it off - until the next 10 minutes elapses, and then hit it again.......).
Note that some forum instructions say to disconnect the battery for at least 60 minutes. He did not do that, and it still worked fine.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 06-24-2013 at 02:17 PM.