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07-25-2013, 10:51 AM
#22
5th Gear
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help
Hello dear gentlemen
I am writing to you from Europe to Hungary
It would be two problems
* have a nice c5 95 silver, beautiful factory LED taillights do not work but I changed the megfellelöen and Electrical drawings would be needed and the entire electric car drawings are well done and I would like to renew
* the other is that I want to revive the factory red and black seats I would not change her plain black dye if someone needs it I want it to black mail I think can be solved
This reminds me of the sudden capita email address Jaffa 12@freemail.hu
Thank you for your help in their accident-free way for everyone
I am writing to you from Europe to Hungary
It would be two problems
* have a nice c5 95 silver, beautiful factory LED taillights do not work but I changed the megfellelöen and Electrical drawings would be needed and the entire electric car drawings are well done and I would like to renew
* the other is that I want to revive the factory red and black seats I would not change her plain black dye if someone needs it I want it to black mail I think can be solved
This reminds me of the sudden capita email address Jaffa 12@freemail.hu
Thank you for your help in their accident-free way for everyone
07-25-2013, 11:00 AM
#23
Safety Car
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Location: Rotonda West, FL 2015 Z51 M7 3LT
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Oldtimer
Hello dear gentlemen
I am writing to you from Europe to Hungary
It would be two problems
* have a nice c5 95 silver, beautiful factory LED taillights do not work but I changed the megfellelöen and Electrical drawings would be needed and the entire electric car drawings are well done and I would like to renew
* the other is that I want to revive the factory red and black seats I would not change her plain black dye if someone needs it I want it to black mail I think can be solved
This reminds me of the sudden capita email address Jaffa 12@freemail.hu
Thank you for your help in their accident-free way for everyone
I am writing to you from Europe to Hungary
It would be two problems
* have a nice c5 95 silver, beautiful factory LED taillights do not work but I changed the megfellelöen and Electrical drawings would be needed and the entire electric car drawings are well done and I would like to renew
* the other is that I want to revive the factory red and black seats I would not change her plain black dye if someone needs it I want it to black mail I think can be solved
This reminds me of the sudden capita email address Jaffa 12@freemail.hu
Thank you for your help in their accident-free way for everyone
I'd suggest that you post a question about the lights in either the C5 Tech forum or the General
Forum (link below)
The seat question would probably be best in the C5 General forum.
Good luck
Last edited by calvins; 07-25-2013 at 12:47 PM.
07-25-2013, 12:36 PM
#24
5th Gear
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Hello and welcome. Sorry about your issues but I don't think this is the best place to ask for help.
I'd suggest that you post a question about the lights in either the C5 Tech forum
The seat question would probably be best in the C5 General forum.
Good luck
I'd suggest that you post a question about the lights in either the C5 Tech forum
The seat question would probably be best in the C5 General forum.
Good luck
07-30-2013, 08:16 AM
#25
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Here is some good information that bikeriderga posted on the forum in another thread on what to look for in a higher mileage car. Thought it would be good to include it here also.
The larger problems with the Corvettes are the electrical systems. The drive trains are pretty much bulletproof.
At 130K, you should look at the following:
1. Grounding Straps: Look for corrosion and/or frayed straps or wires.
2. Pull the battery. See if any acid has leaked on the wiring or look for wears or corrosion of the wiring harness.
3. The internal lights: Specifically the HVAC display, the bulbs for Speedo, Radio, etc.
4. The air conditioning. The HVAC actuators are known to go bad after time. Make sure all vents blow cold and hot air. Check to make sure that if the change the MODE on the HVAC head unit, it actually changes the air flow to the correct position.
5. Clutch: Should have been replaced. Does the owner have the repair order and replacement bill?
6. Service records: Oil changes, differential, and transmission fluid changes.
7. Tires and Wheels. How old, what shape are they in?
8. Weatherstripping: Not as big a problem on the Z06s or FRC as coupes and convertibles.
9. Sensors: Make sure to check for codes on the DIC. Look for current codes and history. The DIC is easy to clear, so once you take it for a test drive of five or more miles, stop and check.
10. Window actuators: Make sure all windows function as they should. Window actuators are a known problem.
11. Rattles: A 130K mile car is going to be loose. Listen for rattles. Where do they come from?
12. Oil Pressure: See if the pressure is in the good range.
13. Engine compression: If possible, have a compression check performed.
14. Exhaust and undercarriage: Check for rust, holes, etc.
15. Interior: Check seats, dash board, etc. Check for cracks, discoloration, etc.
16. Air Dam: Check to make sure it has not been damaged.
17. Air Filter: Has it been maintained? How clean/Not clean?
18. Vacuum Leaks: Again age on the hoses. These will cause issues with HVAC as well.
19. Body damage. See if you can spot any differences in paint or cracks. Normal stone chips expected to fender wells, noise, etc.
20. CarFax: Not always reliable, but a good precaution.
21. Steering: Is it tight or too much play? Could indicate worn ball joints, steering head, etc.
22. Suspension: Normal items, shocks, dust boots, bushings, etc.
23. Shifting transmission: Zs are a little tight, but run through the gears and listen for pinging and noise.
24. Oil Leaks. Check for oil leaks.
25. Coolant leaks. Check for coolant leaks.
26. Fuel Pump: Listen for fuel pump noise and smell of gasoline.
27. Tune up records: When were plugs and wires changed?
28. Brake pads and rotors. Brake jobs not too bad, but if the rotors are warped, it will be an added expense. Check for leaks.
29. Valve Spring changes. Known issue.
The electrical items will cost the most, unless you have serious mechanical problems.
That's about it. If all checks out, you should be good. Remember it is a 130K car, so it is not going to be perfect, unless the owner replaced parts regularly.
At 130K, you should look at the following:
1. Grounding Straps: Look for corrosion and/or frayed straps or wires.
2. Pull the battery. See if any acid has leaked on the wiring or look for wears or corrosion of the wiring harness.
3. The internal lights: Specifically the HVAC display, the bulbs for Speedo, Radio, etc.
4. The air conditioning. The HVAC actuators are known to go bad after time. Make sure all vents blow cold and hot air. Check to make sure that if the change the MODE on the HVAC head unit, it actually changes the air flow to the correct position.
5. Clutch: Should have been replaced. Does the owner have the repair order and replacement bill?
6. Service records: Oil changes, differential, and transmission fluid changes.
7. Tires and Wheels. How old, what shape are they in?
8. Weatherstripping: Not as big a problem on the Z06s or FRC as coupes and convertibles.
9. Sensors: Make sure to check for codes on the DIC. Look for current codes and history. The DIC is easy to clear, so once you take it for a test drive of five or more miles, stop and check.
10. Window actuators: Make sure all windows function as they should. Window actuators are a known problem.
11. Rattles: A 130K mile car is going to be loose. Listen for rattles. Where do they come from?
12. Oil Pressure: See if the pressure is in the good range.
13. Engine compression: If possible, have a compression check performed.
14. Exhaust and undercarriage: Check for rust, holes, etc.
15. Interior: Check seats, dash board, etc. Check for cracks, discoloration, etc.
16. Air Dam: Check to make sure it has not been damaged.
17. Air Filter: Has it been maintained? How clean/Not clean?
18. Vacuum Leaks: Again age on the hoses. These will cause issues with HVAC as well.
19. Body damage. See if you can spot any differences in paint or cracks. Normal stone chips expected to fender wells, noise, etc.
20. CarFax: Not always reliable, but a good precaution.
21. Steering: Is it tight or too much play? Could indicate worn ball joints, steering head, etc.
22. Suspension: Normal items, shocks, dust boots, bushings, etc.
23. Shifting transmission: Zs are a little tight, but run through the gears and listen for pinging and noise.
24. Oil Leaks. Check for oil leaks.
25. Coolant leaks. Check for coolant leaks.
26. Fuel Pump: Listen for fuel pump noise and smell of gasoline.
27. Tune up records: When were plugs and wires changed?
28. Brake pads and rotors. Brake jobs not too bad, but if the rotors are warped, it will be an added expense. Check for leaks.
29. Valve Spring changes. Known issue.
The electrical items will cost the most, unless you have serious mechanical problems.
That's about it. If all checks out, you should be good. Remember it is a 130K car, so it is not going to be perfect, unless the owner replaced parts regularly.
08-14-2013, 03:36 PM
#28
I have an '02Z that my husband gave me when he bought his '07. automatic. I haven't been able to drive for last 3mo (hopefully start again soon) because of medication. He drives mine off and on. Supposedly to "exercise her" but he did comments that if he gets a C7 it will be a stick. Stick shifts are part of the fun of driving our Vettes!!
Brother in law moving from Calif to Florida and just bought some rice burner. I told him he needs a Vette! I get about 29mpg and have over 85,000 miles on her. Nothing like a Vette for the price!!
Brother in law moving from Calif to Florida and just bought some rice burner. I told him he needs a Vette! I get about 29mpg and have over 85,000 miles on her. Nothing like a Vette for the price!!
11-10-2013, 09:26 AM
#30
4th Gear
Member Since: Oct 2013
Location: savannah ga
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thank everybody i am about to take my leap into vette hood lol. i got the money just looking for the right one. i am a newbie to this . the main issue i am having is that i am in savannah Ga. and most the vettes that i like are 400-500 miles away. so i have to find a way to seee them and get them checked out. i luv this forum.
12-14-2013, 05:32 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
Calvins, I have a 99 coupe m6 with ecbm 'V" code.I have not experienced any problems with either,am I just lucky or somewhere doomed in the future? p.s prev owner showed me repair of steering wheel lock recall on my m6.A little confused over that one.Any input?
12-14-2013, 07:08 PM
#32
Safety Car
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Location: Rotonda West, FL 2015 Z51 M7 3LT
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Oldtimer
wlean; I really don't "play" here any longer but just monitor the map and help file thread for issues/problems.
this is really just a pointer thread to the help files. For questions you'd get many more, and better, replies if you posted your question to either the general or tech sections. Good luck.
this is really just a pointer thread to the help files. For questions you'd get many more, and better, replies if you posted your question to either the general or tech sections. Good luck.
12-14-2013, 08:05 PM
#34
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wlean99 - you may own the car for many years and never have a problem, but as with anything mechanical, things do happen eventually.
As far as the column lock issue goes, you don't mention just what the previous owner had done to the car. If it was the GM fix, chances are that it will give you problems in the future. If you do not have either a column lock bypass or an LMC-5 kit installed on your car for the column lock issue, I would advise you to get either one of them and get it put on sooner rather than later. Either one will protect you much better than the GM solution. You can do a search on the forum for column lock issues and come up with a LOT of threads on it. In fact, the first post in this thread has some info on the column lock problem.
As far as the column lock issue goes, you don't mention just what the previous owner had done to the car. If it was the GM fix, chances are that it will give you problems in the future. If you do not have either a column lock bypass or an LMC-5 kit installed on your car for the column lock issue, I would advise you to get either one of them and get it put on sooner rather than later. Either one will protect you much better than the GM solution. You can do a search on the forum for column lock issues and come up with a LOT of threads on it. In fact, the first post in this thread has some info on the column lock problem.
12-15-2013, 04:47 PM
#35
Melting Slicks
vetteman jack,when I purchased the car about 6+ years ago,the previous owner showed me receipts for recall work done by gm dealer,but would not actually give me any of the paperwork…yes odd.He was a comptroller for a big co and a bit paranoid about his personal information.However the car was low mileage and in really nice shape……so anyway I have to assume it was just the gm band-ade fix.I will do a search on forum for better fix,Thanks as always for helpful advice.
12-15-2013, 05:40 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
Wow,holymoly!so much info on this problem going back last 10 years,don't know what the heck to do.Guess first thing is to check wiring under footwell and see what was or wasn't installed.secondly..sell car before ecbm and all these other problems hit me. Dont know if i could in good conscience. Wish I had joined the forum before I purchased the car
thirdly park car under a tree that looks like it is about to fall down)fourth just get a good nites sleep and look at this stuff again in the morning
.
thirdly park car under a tree that looks like it is about to fall down)fourth just get a good nites sleep and look at this stuff again in the morning.
12-15-2013, 08:51 PM
#37
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A forum member that knows a lot about the column lock issue is 8VETTE7. If you get confused on where to proceed, PM him and ask for some guidance.
If it were my car, I would look at to see if a column lock bypass was installed. You can also see if GM installed the K-Harness on the car. It would be in the same location that a column lock bypass goes.
Here is a file that might give you some valuable information on the column lock bypass and the K-harness.
If it were my car, I would look at to see if a column lock bypass was installed. You can also see if GM installed the K-Harness on the car. It would be in the same location that a column lock bypass goes.
Here is a file that might give you some valuable information on the column lock bypass and the K-harness.
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12-18-2013, 03:10 PM
#40
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A quick, easy way is to just look at the option codes contained on a sticker on the inside of the glove box door. If it has a code of G92, you have the 3.15 gears. You could also look at the cover plate on the back of the rear differential - it should have a tag on there that says what the rear gearing is.