Andrew

I'm looking to purchase a flat bed trailer and wanted to see if you think this would work. I know they are not good pictures, but it has 4 ft ramps that are placed on the ground to load with. I'm concerned about the bottom dragging over the crest (dovetail) of the trailer. Thoughts?

And my Z is stock height...

meine96ws6

If you angle the end more with longer ramps.

K-Spaz

4 Feet isn't nearly enough imo. Even at stock height, I think you'll have to add some extra length to the ramps.

PhysicsDude55

I've trailered my (stock height) Vette on a trailer that was almost identical to that one.

I used 6ft. pieces of 2X8's and extended the ramps, and I still just barely bottomed out.

If you carry around 2 8ft pieces of 2X10s or 2X12s, you should be good.

Its hard to tell from the pictures, but you also probably won't be able to open the doors once its on the trailer. I think the bottom of the doors are about 6" off the ground when they're open on our cars.

c4cruiser

I hauled my '02 coupe a few times on my old flatbed trailer similar to the one in the pic. A dovetail does help with getting the car up.

My 02 is lowered all the way down on the stock bolts and I had to use extra wood ramps with my 6' aluminum ramps I had for the trailer. IIRC, I extended the metal ramps using some 2x10 lumber. I used three pieces for each extension; the base piece was about 6' long, the middle piece was 5' and screwed to the bottom piece. The top board was 4' long and it was set back about 3" to let the aluminum ramp to set so that it wouldn't move. Each board was angle cut at the loading end to help the tires up onto each board.

I also added a single 2x12 board about 10' long to the trailer deck to raise the driver's side of the car to allow the door to open. You should measure the distance from the ground to the bottom rear of the door with the door open and about 18" out from the body. That height can then be compared to the height of the trailer fender to the trailer deck. If the fender can be removed, then measure to the top of the trailer tire.

bj1k

I have loaded some low profile cars on a trailer with a beaver tail , but had to put jacks under the ends of the ramps after the rear wheels just enter the back of the ramps. This raises the center of the car so it don't drag. Then continue to drive on the trailer. But as low as our corvettes sit , I don't think the doors will clear the fenders so you can get out. And the whole process is a bit time consuming.

Andrew

OK folks, I may have stumbled on a better deal. Although this is 50% more in price, I think it is a better trailer for me. I really like the diamond plate floor. This isn't where I'm looking to purchase, but it had the best pictures. The one I'm looking at has a aluminum 4' rock guard on the front, tandom axle each with brakes.

What do y'all think?

http://www.codytrailers.com/Big_Tex_..._p/70dm-18.htm

bj1k

I would not buy a trailer with a 1/8 inch diamond plate floor. I thought it was a good idea over buying a wood floor but the steel rusted through in just a few years. ( probably cheap import steel ) I've had wood floors and lasted for many years.

1SGRET

I like that one and I wouldn't anticipate any loading problems.

lxconv331

I have almost the same one & have no problems loading my Z on it! But like the other guy pointed out, if its left out in bad weather it will take its toll on the life of it!

Btw see if you can get it with the adjustable fenders, makes it a breeze for in and out excess from the car without the bottom of the door rubbing on them!

_zebra

another trick is to back the rear axle of your truck onto service ramps which will give you a little flatter loading angle to go over. and definitely extend the ramps.

k24556

Here's the trailer I use to haul my C5.


it is an R&R brand, all aluminum and was just a tad over $4k a year ago. here is the website. http://www.rnrtrailers.com/ Scroll through and you will find a picture of a C6 where the door clears the fender (which mine does as well). the empty weight is listed on the title as #1240 pounds.

It is a light and well made trailer with Dexter axles. My car will go on with no need for extra ramps. Most folks with steel trailers go through a real routine to get a vette of a trailer, but this one is easy. It tows like a dream and is very comfortable.

The biggest negative is that I had to drive to Michigan to get it as there were no nearby dealers. I would definitely buy another, though. good trailer. the only other thing I did was modify the ramp storage bracket so I could mount a spare on the tongue, along with a tongue tool box. The RnR spare tire mount is on the side and would be a PIA for tying down a car.

bj1k

That is a very nice trailer and the door clearance is a good point but make sure you regularly clean the underbody area if you drive it in salt. Aluminum won't rust but it does corrode from road salt and it will eventually eat away just like steel if it is not kept clean of salt. Great trailer though.

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Race Ramps has a ramp model called a Roll-Up (RR-RU). It's 4" high and 14" wide. It's intended to be used in conjunction with service ramps on the opposite end of a car. But, it's useful for use under the rear tires of your tow vehicle to lower the rear edge of your trailer. The standard capacity of the ramps is 3000 pounds per pair. But for this application I recommend getting the heavy duty option which brings the capacity up to 5000 pounds per pair.

k24556

You are correct about road salt. Hd that with aluminum horse trailers. The corrosion was so extensive that it was not worth repairing. Same with steel. Drive it in the winter and rust for sure. Fortunately with car haulers, this is a nice weather game, so far no road salt and the trip to MI was on dry roads.

One other point, the ramps have a lower lock so that the ramps do not flip up on loading.