03-11-2015, 01:39 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Exterior How-Tos
- How to Replace Convertible Top
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourselfers.
Browse all: Exterior How-Tos
Just Finished a Convertible Top Install. Not So Bad. (Long)
03-06-2013, 06:26 PM
#22
Drifting
Looks like a top flight job to me. You're not feeling that your DIY is 100% but from the pics the only thing that will be obvious to folks is that it's a brand new top. The fitment would be good enough for most people and of course most people(me included) wouldn't tackle it. You said that eventually there may be shrinkage, so as long as its operational and secure, let nature take its course and see how it fits this time next year. Don't lose any sleep over the job. Looks like your ready for Corvettes at Carlisle!! Again, great job! Congrats!
Last edited by DARRYLZO6; 03-06-2013 at 06:31 PM.
06-15-2013, 01:43 PM
#24
Intermediate
After reading here in all the threads concerning top replacement, I had to wonder if there really wasn't something that required divine grace to do this correctly. I was astounded at how little information there is on the subject. I mean, you can search here and get tips on any other thing you could possibly do to a car, but this is like some skeleton in the closet and you have to be a member of an elite organization to get any help at all. I did not see a single thread where someone actually attempted to help with any of the pitfalls of this job.
Ok, I'll admit I had to test fit mine, take it back off the car and pull a few staples and redo some fitting. Nothing earth shattering. But, for all the information I received, there wasn't a bit of it worth a plug nickel. The service manual is as good as toilet paper for this job. Totally worthless. I bought mine from Corvette America and I'm supremely disappointed with both the fact that I was told it was in stock when in fact it was not. And, the fact that they offer no help whatsoever with the job. I'm pretty sure I'd have gotten more help from an Ebay seller. (and saved money). Then, I was directed to the top manufacturer who gave me complete misinformation about what glue to use. Thankfully, a hardware store employee mentioned that they thought a better alternative was to use another glue that they sold, and low and behold, yep, that's the way to go. Hard to imagine that someone who has never even looked at a convertible top could give better advise than the people who make them.
So, as I find out, this is at least the 3rd top on my car. It took me two days after work to get the thing finished (Only worked till 7:30 each night on it, so not very long. 6 hours perhaps). In total, I think I had less time on my very first one with no instructions, than some of the estimates I've read about here coming from so called professionals. Knowing what I know now, I'd say a fair price for an installation only is about $300 depending some on the market area. A local shop here quoted me less than that but they were busy and were going to take a while to get me in, I wasn't interested in waiting. I read here of people getting estimates into 4 digits (for labor, not the top) and I have to laugh out loud at that.
Tools I used.
What would I do differently if I had to do it over?
After it was done, I did have my drivers window leak air a bit at the rear, any time above 60mph there's wind noise. So, I had to pull that weatherstrip and move the extrusion out to make better contact. No big deal. It's fixed and there's no leaks, tested with rain already!
All in all, this job was really quite simple. Mine fits perfectly, quite a bit better than the one I took off. My drivers window used to hit the top corner of the opening so I'd have to close the door while fitting that window in and then push it with my thigh to close it if I didn't want the window sticking out on that. No more!
Easily, 50% of my time was spent looking at things to make sure I wasn't missing something. That's all fine though cause mines on and its perfect. It has some wrinkles in it but I think those would need some foam inside the top to remove them. There's nothing I could do with tension to eliminate them. They are slight (and I mean slight) and probably will come out as the top shrinks a teeny bit in the coming weeks. Looking on the bright side, even if I had to tear the whole thing off and do it over, I could do it with the top I have, and it would work out fine. There's really no danger of messing this up, or at least I don't think there is. Alignment is a complete no brainer. I was worried about the window fitment cause some moron obviously couldn't get it right last time. This was a snap. Whoever did mine the last time was clearly careless.
Weatherstrips are easy to replace after the fact. So, any worry about them can be put to rest. If you need to replace them, the top would have to come back off, but it's just a couple screws and bolts and off it comes. The rear weatherstrip is bolted in, and the rear section of the window strip is riveted at the bottom. So the top has to come off to get them. Actually, the rear you might be able to get without now that I think about it.
In any case, the job isn't bad at all, and I'd recommend anyone who gets an estimate north of $400 to tell them to stick it and do it yourself. I know for a fact that I am more conscientious than most any person I've met at any service shop/dealer/organization. I'm betting many here are also, especially the ones that like to do their own work (as many do). They feel that way because they think their first effort will be better than some 'professionals' 100th try. Well, that's how I think. If you've got a Vert, go for it!
ps. The service manual has the replacement procedure under "Folding" top. How intuitive. Finally found it by leafing through pages, the index is worthless, just as with many other unique terms.
Ok, I'll admit I had to test fit mine, take it back off the car and pull a few staples and redo some fitting. Nothing earth shattering. But, for all the information I received, there wasn't a bit of it worth a plug nickel. The service manual is as good as toilet paper for this job. Totally worthless. I bought mine from Corvette America and I'm supremely disappointed with both the fact that I was told it was in stock when in fact it was not. And, the fact that they offer no help whatsoever with the job. I'm pretty sure I'd have gotten more help from an Ebay seller. (and saved money). Then, I was directed to the top manufacturer who gave me complete misinformation about what glue to use. Thankfully, a hardware store employee mentioned that they thought a better alternative was to use another glue that they sold, and low and behold, yep, that's the way to go. Hard to imagine that someone who has never even looked at a convertible top could give better advise than the people who make them.
So, as I find out, this is at least the 3rd top on my car. It took me two days after work to get the thing finished (Only worked till 7:30 each night on it, so not very long. 6 hours perhaps). In total, I think I had less time on my very first one with no instructions, than some of the estimates I've read about here coming from so called professionals. Knowing what I know now, I'd say a fair price for an installation only is about $300 depending some on the market area. A local shop here quoted me less than that but they were busy and were going to take a while to get me in, I wasn't interested in waiting. I read here of people getting estimates into 4 digits (for labor, not the top) and I have to laugh out loud at that.
Tools I used.
- T15 Torx - hand and in cordless drill.
- #2 Phillips Screwdriver - hand and drill
- 3M Super 77 spray glue. Very easy to use, very easy to reposition. (Very easy to transfer to the top by mistake
). Actually, quite easy to clean up. Permatex waterless cleaner cleans it right up. I was amazed. Also, the little I got on the top came right off when dry using a small stainless steel wire brush. - Huge table and sheet of cardboard to work upon.
- 3/8" Ratchet & 13/15mm sockets.
- 1/4" Ratchet & 8mm socket
- Large and small flat screwdrivers
- Staplegun from Harbor Freight
- SS T50 HD 1/4" staples.
- Utility Scissors
- Pop Rivet gun and 1/8" and 5/16" rivets.
- 1/8" drill for drilling rivets
- Needle nose pliers
- 3M Weatherstripping adhesive
- Soldering Iron (for burning holes for screws and such)
- Utility knife (very little use, like almost 0)
- 2" wide painters tape. Used this not for spraying the glue, but to keep my fingers from smearing glue onto the top when pulling it tight. It had to be pressed repeatedly to stick well, after which it was great. I could pull hard on the fabric and place it without getting spots on my new top.
- Piece of cardboard about 9x12" to mask when spraying (used as a disposable painters board)
What would I do differently if I had to do it over?
- Purchase the tack strips and install new ones of them. If you know your car has had a couple tops already, it's a good bet they are on their last legs and should be replaced. Mine had 2 little breaks but both were in somewhat important spots. I made do but I'd replace them next time.
- Purchase a new rear tonneau (sp) cover. That piece that has the elastic to hold it down when the top is up and the windows are down, I'd can that and get a new one.
- Plan better for stripped screw holes. The previous installer was a moron and stripped a number of screws. Broke a number of others. Thankfully, I have a store nearby with a good selection.
- Not attempt to turn the little plastic retainer that holds the tension cable. I broke one and had to make a replacement from aluminum. (much of my wasted time). The cables slip right over these and they don't need to move for removal or install.
- Look closer at the front bow cover and see that the top material is intended to be folded at exactly one place. Mine isn't folded there now and I'm not tearing it apart for that. But I think the install of that would have been easier (screws go in the holes easier) if I had not had the extra fold where there's no relief in the metal cover.
- Plan an extra few days in so I could send the headliner to the dry cleaners, or purchase a new one in advance. There's not much to it, but I bet it's expensive. There's 2 plastic strips used for attaching with screws to the #2 and #3 bows. Also a loop of material for an aluminum strip to be inserted. Some elastic bungee straps, and what appeared to be light seat belt material. I'm sure GM is quite proud of these items and charges accordingly.
After it was done, I did have my drivers window leak air a bit at the rear, any time above 60mph there's wind noise. So, I had to pull that weatherstrip and move the extrusion out to make better contact. No big deal. It's fixed and there's no leaks, tested with rain already!
All in all, this job was really quite simple. Mine fits perfectly, quite a bit better than the one I took off. My drivers window used to hit the top corner of the opening so I'd have to close the door while fitting that window in and then push it with my thigh to close it if I didn't want the window sticking out on that. No more!
Easily, 50% of my time was spent looking at things to make sure I wasn't missing something. That's all fine though cause mines on and its perfect. It has some wrinkles in it but I think those would need some foam inside the top to remove them. There's nothing I could do with tension to eliminate them. They are slight (and I mean slight) and probably will come out as the top shrinks a teeny bit in the coming weeks. Looking on the bright side, even if I had to tear the whole thing off and do it over, I could do it with the top I have, and it would work out fine. There's really no danger of messing this up, or at least I don't think there is. Alignment is a complete no brainer. I was worried about the window fitment cause some moron obviously couldn't get it right last time. This was a snap. Whoever did mine the last time was clearly careless.
Weatherstrips are easy to replace after the fact. So, any worry about them can be put to rest. If you need to replace them, the top would have to come back off, but it's just a couple screws and bolts and off it comes. The rear weatherstrip is bolted in, and the rear section of the window strip is riveted at the bottom. So the top has to come off to get them. Actually, the rear you might be able to get without now that I think about it.
In any case, the job isn't bad at all, and I'd recommend anyone who gets an estimate north of $400 to tell them to stick it and do it yourself. I know for a fact that I am more conscientious than most any person I've met at any service shop/dealer/organization. I'm betting many here are also, especially the ones that like to do their own work (as many do). They feel that way because they think their first effort will be better than some 'professionals' 100th try. Well, that's how I think. If you've got a Vert, go for it!
ps. The service manual has the replacement procedure under "Folding" top. How intuitive. Finally found it by leafing through pages, the index is worthless, just as with many other unique terms.
Neal
11-24-2013, 10:25 AM
#25
Safety Car
Hey Guys, I usually hang out on the C2 forum but I wanted to chime in here.
I have installed many C1,C2,C3, and C4 tops. However, I just finished my first C5 top yesterday. A 2004. I read K-Spaz's post before I started. He is correct that there is little info on installing C5 tops.
The top I used came from Al Knoch. I contacted AK to see if they had any instructions. What they sent was from Robbins. It wasn't much but it sure helped.
A couple of notes on the install:
1) I did not take the frame off the car. However, I did have to loosen and lift the frame to get to the pop rivets at the bottom of the vertical side rail.
2) I did not find any place that I had to use glue. The headliner was stapled to the header tack strip.
3) I agree with K-Spaz that replacing the tack strip is a good idea. They were brittle and easy to break.
4) The staple gun you use is critical. 1/4" staples max. I bought an electric gun from Sears for $40. It probably was not the best gun for the job. A gun with thin staples like the originals would work the best. I will probably try to find one of these.
5) Side to side fitments is a no brainier. Front to rear is the problem. Going by the alignment marks on the top it was wrinkly and needed to be pulled tighter. I probably stretched it about another 3/8". That took care of the wrinkles and the sagging by the top of the rear window. I also adjusted the tightness of the top by the back tack strip.
6) I did have a problem with the drivers window hitting the top in the upper corner. I removed the header and rear staples on that side. I pulled the rear material about 1/4 inch and relaxed the front header. This pulled the bead to the back of the car and out of the way fixing the problem. However, the top edge of the window does come very close.
7) There was no pucker by the top rear of the window. It is not supposed to be there.
I work for a dealer in Cleveland, Corvette Conspiracy. Their customers pay a lot of money so wrinkles and sags are not an option.
I spent a lot of time adjusting the top to remove them. Because of the staples it was hard to hide them under the rear weatherstrip. I had problems tacking the top there because of the awkward angle and the type of staple gun. I had a lot of staples I had to pull and redo.
I am happy to help anyone tackling the job themselves.
I have installed many C1,C2,C3, and C4 tops. However, I just finished my first C5 top yesterday. A 2004. I read K-Spaz's post before I started. He is correct that there is little info on installing C5 tops.
The top I used came from Al Knoch. I contacted AK to see if they had any instructions. What they sent was from Robbins. It wasn't much but it sure helped.
A couple of notes on the install:
1) I did not take the frame off the car. However, I did have to loosen and lift the frame to get to the pop rivets at the bottom of the vertical side rail.
2) I did not find any place that I had to use glue. The headliner was stapled to the header tack strip.
3) I agree with K-Spaz that replacing the tack strip is a good idea. They were brittle and easy to break.
4) The staple gun you use is critical. 1/4" staples max. I bought an electric gun from Sears for $40. It probably was not the best gun for the job. A gun with thin staples like the originals would work the best. I will probably try to find one of these.
5) Side to side fitments is a no brainier. Front to rear is the problem. Going by the alignment marks on the top it was wrinkly and needed to be pulled tighter. I probably stretched it about another 3/8". That took care of the wrinkles and the sagging by the top of the rear window. I also adjusted the tightness of the top by the back tack strip.
6) I did have a problem with the drivers window hitting the top in the upper corner. I removed the header and rear staples on that side. I pulled the rear material about 1/4 inch and relaxed the front header. This pulled the bead to the back of the car and out of the way fixing the problem. However, the top edge of the window does come very close.
7) There was no pucker by the top rear of the window. It is not supposed to be there.
I work for a dealer in Cleveland, Corvette Conspiracy. Their customers pay a lot of money so wrinkles and sags are not an option.
I spent a lot of time adjusting the top to remove them. Because of the staples it was hard to hide them under the rear weatherstrip. I had problems tacking the top there because of the awkward angle and the type of staple gun. I had a lot of staples I had to pull and redo.
I am happy to help anyone tackling the job themselves.
Last edited by woodsdesign; 11-24-2013 at 10:32 AM.
11-24-2013, 10:49 PM
#26
When I did my top replacement:
I was able to repair any cracks in the plastic tack strips by melting/welding any cracks together with soldering iron
The service manual covers all the necessary steps to replace fabric top including removing top assembly. I did not have to do anything with headliner when replacing the top.
With only 3 bolts per side to remove the complete top, would not even consider trying to perform top replacement on car. There is an alignment hole that you insert a tapered punch into to achieve proper top alignment.
I was able to repair any cracks in the plastic tack strips by melting/welding any cracks together with soldering iron
The service manual covers all the necessary steps to replace fabric top including removing top assembly. I did not have to do anything with headliner when replacing the top.
With only 3 bolts per side to remove the complete top, would not even consider trying to perform top replacement on car. There is an alignment hole that you insert a tapered punch into to achieve proper top alignment.
Last edited by gtzy; 08-07-2018 at 12:11 AM.
11-25-2013, 07:12 AM
#27
Safety Car
When I did my top replacement:
I was able to repair any cracks in the plastic tack strips by melting/welding any cracks together with soldering iron
The service manual covers all the necessary steps to replace fabric top. I did not have to do anything with headliner when replacing the top.
With only 4 bolts to remove the complete top, would not even consider trying to perform top replacement on car.
I was able to repair any cracks in the plastic tack strips by melting/welding any cracks together with soldering iron
The service manual covers all the necessary steps to replace fabric top. I did not have to do anything with headliner when replacing the top.
With only 4 bolts to remove the complete top, would not even consider trying to perform top replacement on car.
Does the service manual recommend taking the top off the car? As I said this was my first C5 so I am still learning.
04-19-2014, 07:14 PM
#31
Heel & Toe
I received my new Robbins Twillfast II top today. $445.00 from Rockauto.com. $150.00 less than Eckler's. Looks to be a fairly easy installation, although I wont be able to do it until Monday. I will scan and upload the step by step deinstallation nd installation manual and any tips once I've completed the install for those that are interested.
03-05-2015, 11:15 PM
#32
Your all teachers. Thanks Man. Make it seem like its all common sense and the skill is from wisdom. From the last tool to the details, obvious details you have no idea you missed. The alignment being critical even to wrinkles.
I have to admit my 2002 leaked when I bought it and I suffered with the illusion it was a specialists job to stop the leak. So I bought after market rubber had a top shop in FL install the two over the drivers door, month later it leaks. After market weather strips did crack bad in two years. Living between bending the retainers which were already bent, a tube and a half of black glue, after inspecting them and the rubbers cracking finally I had enough. I bought the weather-strips new from Chevy, expensive, but worth it, found retainers like new on E bay installed the four pieces myself with insane alignment and precision, copying the passenger side Da, and not a drop of glue or weather strip cement. I was told by an upholsterer that stressed no glue on your weather-strips. Went to a car wash high pressure sprayed the drivers side and I was amazed. No leak. Now its six months later in Fl. from Chicago driving her every day in the rain and no leaks.
I went out this morning and my rear window showed me how to get fixed by reading { gem } who explains when your rear window is falling out of your Corvette and every shop you call says the same thing, new top 2 to 3K. { gem } with pictures and instructions that you CAN Rhino glue the back window to the top and don't forget the suction cups knowing that these processes of replacing the top and repairing the convertible top are manageable not with any ease or simplicity, however with skill and patience, and carefully with the list of tools K-Spaz talks about replacing his top himself and commenting on how easy it is to get lied to about what they are shipping you along with every tool down to what you should buy before you start and what not to dismantle. So thanks Forum I'll keep you posted. I'm going to order suction cups now. I already ordered the glue.
I have to admit my 2002 leaked when I bought it and I suffered with the illusion it was a specialists job to stop the leak. So I bought after market rubber had a top shop in FL install the two over the drivers door, month later it leaks. After market weather strips did crack bad in two years. Living between bending the retainers which were already bent, a tube and a half of black glue, after inspecting them and the rubbers cracking finally I had enough. I bought the weather-strips new from Chevy, expensive, but worth it, found retainers like new on E bay installed the four pieces myself with insane alignment and precision, copying the passenger side Da, and not a drop of glue or weather strip cement. I was told by an upholsterer that stressed no glue on your weather-strips. Went to a car wash high pressure sprayed the drivers side and I was amazed. No leak. Now its six months later in Fl. from Chicago driving her every day in the rain and no leaks.
I went out this morning and my rear window showed me how to get fixed by reading { gem } who explains when your rear window is falling out of your Corvette and every shop you call says the same thing, new top 2 to 3K. { gem } with pictures and instructions that you CAN Rhino glue the back window to the top and don't forget the suction cups knowing that these processes of replacing the top and repairing the convertible top are manageable not with any ease or simplicity, however with skill and patience, and carefully with the list of tools K-Spaz talks about replacing his top himself and commenting on how easy it is to get lied to about what they are shipping you along with every tool down to what you should buy before you start and what not to dismantle. So thanks Forum I'll keep you posted. I'm going to order suction cups now. I already ordered the glue.
03-06-2015, 11:48 AM
#33
Le Mans Master
This is a Robbins twillfast top installed by one of those so called professionals. (Upholstery is what he does for a living). It took him about 9 hours and he charged $450.00 for his work. I have no fittment issues.
Last edited by BADBIRDCAGE; 03-06-2015 at 11:53 AM.
03-06-2015, 02:50 PM
#34
Safety Car
Thanks for the info.
I had once replaced a very basic top on a TR6 and had made mental note to self, never again.
This write up made me consider pacing this task back in the "possible diy" category.
Thankfully I was able to repair my rear window problems, the previous owner had tried clear siiicone, easy old residue to remove .
I didn't use suction cups on the rear window , just jammed in pillows and such , just enough to hold in place without tension. With that set up, I was able to glue the rear glass without stress on the glued edges when the top is under tension.
I'm planning on a robbins top when mine plays out, some others use the visible rubber gasket around the rear glass.
I had once replaced a very basic top on a TR6 and had made mental note to self, never again.
This write up made me consider pacing this task back in the "possible diy" category.
Thankfully I was able to repair my rear window problems, the previous owner had tried clear siiicone, easy old residue to remove .
I didn't use suction cups on the rear window , just jammed in pillows and such , just enough to hold in place without tension. With that set up, I was able to glue the rear glass without stress on the glued edges when the top is under tension.
I'm planning on a robbins top when mine plays out, some others use the visible rubber gasket around the rear glass.
03-07-2015, 06:04 AM
#35
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2014
Location: Havre de Grace Maryland
Posts: 3,134
Received 1,212 Likes
on
773 Posts
When I bought my 04 vert in 9-2014, the top looked brand new. Since the car sits outside (no garage queen possible), I bought a Furguson top up cover ($190, Echkler's) to keep all the airborne stuff and UV rays off of it. Hopefully, the cover will keep me from having to replace the top.
03-07-2015, 11:18 AM
#36
Quick word call around, I found the hand to cups for glass installations at Harbor Freight. online more hassle, freaky reviews. Rhino Glue must be ordered on line. Thamks
08-28-2015, 11:16 AM
#37
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Leesburg Fl
Posts: 2,793
Received 333 Likes
on
236 Posts
2018 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '14,'18
You can buy the Robbins top at: topsonline.com for about $450 and they will drop ship to an installer, even gave me a name and he charged $350 to install professionally. Robbins is highly rated in the auto trim business.
06-07-2017, 08:37 AM
#38
Advanced
How was the top removed from the Car???
After reading here in all the threads concerning top replacement, I had to wonder if there really wasn't something that required divine grace to do this correctly. I was astounded at how little information there is on the subject. I mean, you can search here and get tips on any other thing you could possibly do to a car, but this is like some skeleton in the closet and you have to be a member of an elite organization to get any help at all. I did not see a single thread where someone actually attempted to help with any of the pitfalls of this job.
Ok, I'll admit I had to test fit mine, take it back off the car and pull a few staples and redo some fitting. Nothing earth shattering. But, for all the information I received, there wasn't a bit of it worth a plug nickel. The service manual is as good as toilet paper for this job. Totally worthless. I bought mine from Corvette America and I'm supremely disappointed with both the fact that I was told it was in stock when in fact it was not. And, the fact that they offer no help whatsoever with the job. I'm pretty sure I'd have gotten more help from an Ebay seller. (and saved money). Then, I was directed to the top manufacturer who gave me complete misinformation about what glue to use. Thankfully, a hardware store employee mentioned that they thought a better alternative was to use another glue that they sold, and low and behold, yep, that's the way to go. Hard to imagine that someone who has never even looked at a convertible top could give better advise than the people who make them.
So, as I find out, this is at least the 3rd top on my car. It took me two days after work to get the thing finished (Only worked till 7:30 each night on it, so not very long. 6 hours perhaps). In total, I think I had less time on my very first one with no instructions, than some of the estimates I've read about here coming from so called professionals. Knowing what I know now, I'd say a fair price for an installation only is about $300 depending some on the market area. A local shop here quoted me less than that but they were busy and were going to take a while to get me in, I wasn't interested in waiting. I read here of people getting estimates into 4 digits (for labor, not the top) and I have to laugh out loud at that.
Tools I used.
All in all, this job was really quite simple. Mine fits perfectly, quite a bit better than the one I took off. My drivers window used to hit the top corner of the opening so I'd have to close the door while fitting that window in and then push it with my thigh to close it if I didn't want the window sticking out on that. No more!
Easily, 50% of my time was spent looking at things to make sure I wasn't missing something. That's all fine though cause mines on and its perfect. It has some wrinkles in it but I think those would need some foam inside the top to remove them. There's nothing I could do with tension to eliminate them. They are slight (and I mean slight) and probably will come out as the top shrinks a teeny bit in the coming weeks. Looking on the bright side, even if I had to tear the whole thing off and do it over, I could do it with the top I have, and it would work out fine. There's really no danger of messing this up, or at least I don't think there is. Alignment is a complete no brainer. I was worried about the window fitment cause some moron obviously couldn't get it right last time. This was a snap. Whoever did mine the last time was clearly careless.
Weatherstrips are easy to replace after the fact. So, any worry about them can be put to rest. If you need to replace them, the top would have to come back off, but it's just a couple screws and bolts and off it comes. The rear weatherstrip is bolted in, and the rear section of the window strip is riveted at the bottom. So the top has to come off to get them. Actually, the rear you might be able to get without now that I think about it.
In any case, the job isn't bad at all, and I'd recommend anyone who gets an estimate north of $400 to tell them to stick it and do it yourself. I know for a fact that I am more conscientious than most any person I've met at any service shop/dealer/organization. I'm betting many here are also, especially the ones that like to do their own work (as many do). They feel that way because they think their first effort will be better than some 'professionals' 100th try. Well, that's how I think. If you've got a Vert, go for it!
ps. The service manual has the replacement procedure under "Folding" top. How intuitive. Finally found it by leafing through pages, the index is worthless, just as with many other unique terms.
Ok, I'll admit I had to test fit mine, take it back off the car and pull a few staples and redo some fitting. Nothing earth shattering. But, for all the information I received, there wasn't a bit of it worth a plug nickel. The service manual is as good as toilet paper for this job. Totally worthless. I bought mine from Corvette America and I'm supremely disappointed with both the fact that I was told it was in stock when in fact it was not. And, the fact that they offer no help whatsoever with the job. I'm pretty sure I'd have gotten more help from an Ebay seller. (and saved money). Then, I was directed to the top manufacturer who gave me complete misinformation about what glue to use. Thankfully, a hardware store employee mentioned that they thought a better alternative was to use another glue that they sold, and low and behold, yep, that's the way to go. Hard to imagine that someone who has never even looked at a convertible top could give better advise than the people who make them.
So, as I find out, this is at least the 3rd top on my car. It took me two days after work to get the thing finished (Only worked till 7:30 each night on it, so not very long. 6 hours perhaps). In total, I think I had less time on my very first one with no instructions, than some of the estimates I've read about here coming from so called professionals. Knowing what I know now, I'd say a fair price for an installation only is about $300 depending some on the market area. A local shop here quoted me less than that but they were busy and were going to take a while to get me in, I wasn't interested in waiting. I read here of people getting estimates into 4 digits (for labor, not the top) and I have to laugh out loud at that.
Tools I used.
- T15 Torx - hand and in cordless drill.
- #2 Phillips Screwdriver - hand and drill
- 3M Super 77 spray glue. Very easy to use, very easy to reposition. (Very easy to transfer to the top by mistake ). Actually, quite easy to clean up. Permatex waterless cleaner cleans it right up. I was amazed. Also, the little I got on the top came right off when dry using a small stainless steel wire brush.
- Huge table and sheet of cardboard to work upon.
- 3/8" Ratchet & 13/15mm sockets.
- 1/4" Ratchet & 8mm socket
- Large and small flat screwdrivers
- Staplegun from Harbor Freight
- SS T50 HD 1/4" staples.
- Utility Scissors
- Pop Rivet gun and 1/8" and 5/16" rivets.
- 1/8" drill for drilling rivets
- Needle nose pliers
- 3M Weatherstripping adhesive
- Soldering Iron (for burning holes for screws and such)
- Utility knife (very little use, like almost 0)
- 2" wide painters tape. Used this not for spraying the glue, but to keep my fingers from smearing glue onto the top when pulling it tight. It had to be pressed repeatedly to stick well, after which it was great. I could pull hard on the fabric and place it without getting spots on my new top.
- Piece of cardboard about 9x12" to mask when spraying (used as a disposable painters board)
- Purchase the tack strips and install new ones of them. If you know your car has had a couple tops already, it's a good bet they are on their last legs and should be replaced. Mine had 2 little breaks but both were in somewhat important spots. I made do but I'd replace them next time.
- Purchase a new rear tonneau (sp) cover. That piece that has the elastic to hold it down when the top is up and the windows are down, I'd can that and get a new one.
- Plan better for stripped screw holes. The previous installer was a moron and stripped a number of screws. Broke a number of others. Thankfully, I have a store nearby with a good selection.
- Not attempt to turn the little plastic retainer that holds the tension cable. I broke one and had to make a replacement from aluminum. (much of my wasted time). The cables slip right over these and they don't need to move for removal or install.
- Look closer at the front bow cover and see that the top material is intended to be folded at exactly one place. Mine isn't folded there now and I'm not tearing it apart for that. But I think the install of that would have been easier (screws go in the holes easier) if I had not had the extra fold where there's no relief in the metal cover.
- Plan an extra few days in so I could send the headliner to the dry cleaners, or purchase a new one in advance. There's not much to it, but I bet it's expensive. There's 2 plastic strips used for attaching with screws to the #2 and #3 bows. Also a loop of material for an aluminum strip to be inserted. Some elastic bungee straps, and what appeared to be light seat belt material. I'm sure GM is quite proud of these items and charges accordingly.
All in all, this job was really quite simple. Mine fits perfectly, quite a bit better than the one I took off. My drivers window used to hit the top corner of the opening so I'd have to close the door while fitting that window in and then push it with my thigh to close it if I didn't want the window sticking out on that. No more!
Easily, 50% of my time was spent looking at things to make sure I wasn't missing something. That's all fine though cause mines on and its perfect. It has some wrinkles in it but I think those would need some foam inside the top to remove them. There's nothing I could do with tension to eliminate them. They are slight (and I mean slight) and probably will come out as the top shrinks a teeny bit in the coming weeks. Looking on the bright side, even if I had to tear the whole thing off and do it over, I could do it with the top I have, and it would work out fine. There's really no danger of messing this up, or at least I don't think there is. Alignment is a complete no brainer. I was worried about the window fitment cause some moron obviously couldn't get it right last time. This was a snap. Whoever did mine the last time was clearly careless.
Weatherstrips are easy to replace after the fact. So, any worry about them can be put to rest. If you need to replace them, the top would have to come back off, but it's just a couple screws and bolts and off it comes. The rear weatherstrip is bolted in, and the rear section of the window strip is riveted at the bottom. So the top has to come off to get them. Actually, the rear you might be able to get without now that I think about it.
In any case, the job isn't bad at all, and I'd recommend anyone who gets an estimate north of $400 to tell them to stick it and do it yourself. I know for a fact that I am more conscientious than most any person I've met at any service shop/dealer/organization. I'm betting many here are also, especially the ones that like to do their own work (as many do). They feel that way because they think their first effort will be better than some 'professionals' 100th try. Well, that's how I think. If you've got a Vert, go for it!
ps. The service manual has the replacement procedure under "Folding" top. How intuitive. Finally found it by leafing through pages, the index is worthless, just as with many other unique terms.
06-10-2017, 09:42 PM
#39
Advanced
You don't want to remove the top frame from the car. Better to take out the passenger seat so you can do some work standing in the car. If you get the Robbins top, the instructions are pretty good except for a couple things. All the disassembly instructions are fine, but one of the steps in the middle where you wrap the bottom of the top around the B-pillar should be done right before you pull the top cables through their channel. Also, don't glue the top to the 2nd bow. Instead, unbolt it, pass it through the fabric channel, and reinstall the bow. (I stole this bit from one of the other top manufacturer's instructions.) This will make it easier to deal with when screwing the headliner flange back in.
Last edited by Bob_VII; 06-10-2017 at 09:46 PM.
