snooks

64000miles on factory clutch; procharger s/c,stage 2upgrade,headers,LSXfast intake. never race or ride hard. want best clutch, aluminum fly?, slave cylinder,master cylinder chg?, torque tube bushing chg? pilot brg. etc. please give best recommendation. thoughts on: Ls7 if fits,Spec clutches, mantic? max 600hp/550trq at flywhl.
HELP! THANKS.

bumble-z

Why not check with the new design clutch p/plate, slave & fly wheel that
ECS , (East Coast Supercharging) now offers.
Their contact info & add is to the left of this page, along with other adds.
Good luck.

PS.(my bad) EDITED
Meant to say East Coast Super charging, not East coast Performance

dgrant3830

I did the LS7 clutch/flyhweel setup from Gene Culley. It fit just fine although the bellhousing had to be opened just enough to let it clear to get in there then bolted back down.

cdkcorvette7

Well, the first thing anyone would need to know to help you with this is your budget. There are a ton of aftermarket clutches out there; run a search on this forum for "which clutch" and have fun reading for a few months. Lots of different opinions. You might also consider asking whomever did your s/c install for a recommendation.

As to some of your other questions. Personally, I HATE the feel of an aluminum flywheel on the street. If you're not tracking your car I really don't see much of a benefit for you. A heavy flywheel will allow for easier driving in traffic.

You should absolutely swap your slave cylinder/throwout bearing, and pilot bearing while you're down there. Stick with the GM components.

At only 64K miles I doubt if you're at the point where you need to change out your torque tube couplers. You should check their condition while you have everything apart but I wouldn't replace them unless they are cracked. Please read this before you consider going with solid couplers: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...couplings.html

The drivetrain does not have to be out of the car to replace the master cylinder so it is not an absolute must at the same time. It would be a good idea to upgrade to an adjustable master cylinder (tick makes a really good one) if you're going to go with a heavy duty aftermarket clutch.

Another thing you might consider is installing a remote clutch bleeder while you have everything apart. It is nearly impossible to bleed the clutch properly from the slave without dropping the drivetrain (I'll never understand why the car was engineered this way) unless you have a remote bleeder line. The best thing you can do to keep your clutch feeling as good as it did the day you installed it is keeping the fluid clean. The downside to the bleeder line is that some people have had issues with them leaking at the fittings. I've had mine installed for over 50K miles now and have not had any leaks but that's just me. If you run a search you'll find that many have had issues.

Good luck

snooks

thanks so much for the info, really appreciate.

DOUG @ ECS

Just to clarify, we (ECS) are East Coast Supercharging. We are not affiliated with East Coast Performance in the slightest.

We have taken the time to properly test the Mantic clutches so we know what we are offering to people, and what power levels they are good too.

OP, feel free to give us a call if you would like to discuss this in length.




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