Originally Posted by talon46

this morning sitting in the drive thru after about maybe 5 minutes of driving I had just left my house, the car hit the to hot mark, check gages light came on, the gage was pegged, to the right and when it moved into the red the check gages light came on, I could hear a fan running but amnot sure if the second one came on. I am wondering what would cause this. I know a little bit but have not really wrenched on the vette to much.

After I got the car moving I was heading home, and the temp gage dropped drastically and it seemed to work fine on the 25 mile drive to work. Is it possible the fan got stuck, when I get home I will check the front end for blockage, but it seems fine now.

I am concerned as I was going to take the car on a road trip up to Ohio, and stop buy the factory and museum along the way, do not want to be having problems while on a road trip.

Any advice would be appreciated

Originally Posted by Chicago1

Throw it in a pot of water and see if it opens just in case you wanna know for sure

Originally Posted by Chicago1

Insure your fans are running correctly and the second one is coming on. It should come on @ 235F. And I agree on teh other 2 post above

Originally Posted by talon46

asked her to check for [puddles =where its parked all of the time no puddle or spots, also do not think its blown a head gasket, there is still coolant in the reserve tank. any advice on changing it, as I have only done one other front mount thermosat and it sucked, also anyone know what kind of coolant to put back in as in order to change the theromstat, I will ahve to break the coolant hose loose, and alot will most likely come out. I might just get the dealership to do that as well. Since I am having them change the coolant on thursday.

Let me know, wish me luck road trip coming up to BGK, and the NCM. need the girl in tip top shape for the road trip

Originally Posted by Evil-Twin

I change my stat twice a year,...I lose less than a pint of coolant... it takes less than five minutes....the actual stat transfer takes a few second.. that is the only time the coolant leaks...
I just changed to my 160 stat today... its a piece of cake..
with a cold engine, have the new stat ready sitting on the battery with some silicone grease to keep the "O" ring in place...have some anti seize compound ready also..
1) slide the radiator hose clamp up the hose about 6 inches..then remove the hose and stuff it under the radiator overflow hose... ( about an inch in diameter..) pull it up higher than the radiator.. and no coolant will leak out
2) remove the lower housing bolt completely... Note that with a cold engine the stat valve will be close and you will not lose any coolant.. apply a little anti seize to the thread
3) there is no pressure in the cooling system at this point..
here comes the trick.....with a little pressure on the housing ( pressing it to the engine with one hand.... remove the upper housing bolt....with a small amount of pressure you will keep the stat tight to the water pump... Now grab the new stat... with one motion remove the old stat and put the new one in place.. using the same pressure.. ( maybe 20 pounds of force ) the only time you lose any coolant is in the stat exchange..
4) now take the bolt with the anti seize on it and put it in the lower housing hole and tighten it slightly.. this will hold the housing in place.. you may lose a little coolant here..
5) put some anti seize on the other bolt and put it in the upper hole.. tighten both bolts to 89 inch pounds... put the radiator hose back on and slide the clamp back...
6) replace the lost coolant
7) start engine, check for leaks.. let it run up to temp... this is a good time to set your fan....
Im running a 160 stat, and have the fans set at 175...
after the stat opens.. you may see a drop in the coolant level, this is were you add more..

Originally Posted by talon46

when I opened the hood, I did not see a radiator cap, do you just add the new coolant to the resivor?? and what kind apparently there is a gold coolant, plus the normal green old folks are used too. I am asking because I do not have a car book otherwise I would look it up.

Anyone got a line on a set of manuals?

something I need to invest in??

Thanks

Originally Posted by Patches

Draining and Filling Cooling System

Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.

Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.


1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain fowl.
5) Open the radiator drain fowl.
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.

Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


8) Close the radiator drain fowl. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain fowl to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.