surging brakes
07-19-2011, 04:30 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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surging brakes
above 60mph, i recently experienced brakes surging and of course more so the harder you push on the brake pedal on my c5. brake pads have 1/2" left on each one. everything looks ok. wondering if the anti lock brake mechanism might be at fault. any advice here is apreciated
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Last edited by showlow; 07-19-2011 at 04:31 PM. Reason: added a couple words
07-20-2011, 12:39 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
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I would try doing a few hard stops from 60 to 5 mph or so to break in the pads again. Another thing you can try is to scuff the friction surface with steel wool or something similar and then going thru a break in procedure again. From what I understand it is very common for friction material to build up unevenly on the rotors, my friend was actually going to replace his rotors because he thought that they were warped but I had him scuff them up and the surging stopped.
07-20-2011, 10:33 AM
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Safety Car
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Are you getting any code messages on the DIC ? If pulsing is the ABS you will get a failure code relating to a bad sensor or whatever the problem is. If no codes, then it has to be a mechanical problem. Check rotors for runout with a dial indicator. Anything more than .004 inch is out of spec and can cause a problem with vibration. Be sure to check both front and rear friction surfaces of each rotor. One side can be fine and the other out of spec. If bad, just replace rotors rather than turning, they are cheap for a Vette.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
07-20-2011, 10:53 AM
#7
Heel & Toe
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good advice here. thanx. my runout on the discs are .007 on the passenger side. haven't checked the drivers side yet. going to go get the rotors turned and buy new pads--advice here--ceramic or metallic ? still have pretty good meat on old pads.
07-21-2011, 02:25 AM
#10
Instructor
I would try doing a few hard stops from 60 to 5 mph or so to break in the pads again. Another thing you can try is to scuff the friction surface with steel wool or something similar and then going thru a break in procedure again. From what I understand it is very common for friction material to build up unevenly on the rotors, my friend was actually going to replace his rotors because he thought that they were warped but I had him scuff them up and the surging stopped.
07-21-2011, 02:27 AM
#11
Instructor
Are you getting any code messages on the DIC ? If pulsing is the ABS you will get a failure code relating to a bad sensor or whatever the problem is. If no codes, then it has to be a mechanical problem. Check rotors for runout with a dial indicator. Anything more than .004 inch is out of spec and can cause a problem with vibration. Be sure to check both front and rear friction surfaces of each rotor. One side can be fine and the other out of spec. If bad, just replace rotors rather than turning, they are cheap for a Vette.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
07-21-2011, 02:30 AM
#12
Safety Car
Are you getting any code messages on the DIC ? If pulsing is the ABS you will get a failure code relating to a bad sensor or whatever the problem is. If no codes, then it has to be a mechanical problem. Check rotors for runout with a dial indicator. Anything more than .004 inch is out of spec and can cause a problem with vibration. Be sure to check both front and rear friction surfaces of each rotor. One side can be fine and the other out of spec. If bad, just replace rotors rather than turning, they are cheap for a Vette.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
Thats good advice 
Also true, very often build up of pad material from a panic stop and hold (acts like a stamp pad and deposits more when you hold it there). Many people assume they are warped, have em turned (removing the uneven deposits) and think "see, they were warped". Not too common.
