CAMARO'N'BIRD

About to replace the oil sending unit on a buddies Vette, any help or experiences would be appreciated. Have heard it can be done without removing the intake. Thanks, Ken

Vetteman Jack

Good luck. If you'd like some Word files that discuss the process, including one that talks about a relocation mod for the sensor, PM me your e-mail address.

jornahow

It can be done. Some people cut a hole in the windshield cowl to get a socket on the sender. Personally I wouldn't butcher my Corvette that way. I took off the manifold and used this oil sender relocation kit (without the gauge). Now the new sender resides under my fuel rail cover where I can get at it if/when it fails again.

http://www.dpecorvettes.com/gpage7.html

Jistari

And I saw a guy who said you can do it without removing the intake or cutting the panel under the cowl (btw the cut method doesnt cut the visible cowl, it cuts the panel under it).


This has the video on not removing the intake or cutting anything.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ar-is-off.html

CAMARO'N'BIRD

Thanks for all the help guys. Appreciate the input, not going in blind now like I was. Ken

DirtRoad

Try not to think of it as butchering. Think of it as a mod(actually an improvement) to create an access panel that the Corvette factory forgot.

derty01

I take the manifold off and then do a relocation of the unit. Really simple and removing the intake takes but all 15 mins.

Vettmann17

Thats how I did mine. One hour start to finish and now I have an access panel that will cut the time in half if I ever have to replace it again. There are some on the forum who are against cutting a hole and say it's a piece of cake to remove the intake. I went through the intake removal procedure and I personally would never attempt it simply because I am not confident in my ability for a job like that. I did mine about six months ago and it's working great and no one would ever know there is an access panel under the cowl cover. Just be sure to buy a new sender with a brass base (BWD makes a good one) and be sure to use a good quality sealant for replacing the access panel and your good to go. Good luck with the job!

ChiefC

I cut the hole and am happy.

Bullet Proof

I just put in as new intake and I went ahead and changed out the sensor. All this talk of how hard it is and the shortcuts are the first time I took it off it was maybe 20 min max...easiest part of the job just pull the intake and tb off in 1 piece

SaberD

this doesnt allow you to apply the proper torque. remove the manifold. its not hard.

bumble-z

And pick up a relocation kit , while the intake is off.

Camjamsdad

I cut the hole. After sealing it you can't see it at all. Later I installed the late model LS6 style intake. That job wasn't hard but had a few complications like damaged O rings on the fuel injectors that ended up leaking. And there's a lot of sand and debris that collects under and around the intake. I blew the area out with air then washed it with a pressure washer the day before and still had trash under the intake. Why chance anything falling into the cylinders? So I'd still say cut the hole. A lot less can go wrong. It's been over 18 months and my BWD brass sender is still working like a charm.

hyp3r3xt3nsion

cut the hole - yes, removing intake is easy-ish, but **** can go wrong and then you'll be pissed.

Cut the hole, have perfect access, and you'll never see the hole until the next itme it fails.

rboineau

You know, when I bought my low-mile 2003 three years ago and started researching here on the Forum, I of course soon heard about the oil pressure sensor problem and the debate regarding how to replace one. At that time, I said to myself "I'd never in heck cut a hole in my car".

But I'm not so sure now. As DirtRoad said, you could actually look upon it as an improvement. Of course, you'd have to do a proper job.

How big a hole do you have to cut? Big enough to get your hand in there to release the connector? Or could you get by with a smaller, round hole? Would appreciate some input from those who have done it, how big a hole they cut, shape, how they released/reconnected the wiring, etc. If you could get by with a relatively small round hole, then you could use one of the black rubber "cap-plugs" you used to see in auto body floors to make a really neat job of sealing the hole. I'm sure such plugs are still made or are otherwise available; they were made in lots of sizes, small to fairly large.

DirtRoad

Rectangle. It was 3 years ago and I have a different C5 now, but I believe the hole was 6 to 7 inches by 2 to 2 1/2 inches. I used a Dremel with the fiber reinforced cutoff wheel. I cleaned up the edges of the hole with a flat file. The piece I removed was NOT flat, because the hole needs to be cut in a place that is not flat. There was room to get my hand through the hole. To remove the sender I tried to use the crow's-foot that I already had, but it was too big a pain so I bought a 1 1/16 deep socket. When I put it back together I used strips of Gorilla tape to hold the rectangular piece I cut out. It seals great and is impossible to see when everything is reassembled. If (when??) the sender in my current car fails I will certainly use the same method for repair.

pluslt

There is a video on youtube of some guy getting back there with a wobble socket and extension. Check youtube and see what he does then decide for yourself. I think you still need to have small (ish) hands to do with that method.

There are plenty of good writeups on this though and I would probably just remove the intake, do the re-location mod and call it a day.

Tech

/facepalm

Don't cut it.

ChromeC5

If you are going to cut it, I suggest you place a piece of metal between the cowl and hoses that are under there so you don't have to worry about cutting into those while making your hole.

Jet-Jock

You can remove the manifold with the injectors and throttle body attached.

You will need a new set of gaskets for the intake, you are cautioned not to reuse them. Torque sequence and stepping is very important. As well as blue locktite on the bolts and 7 & 8 you'll have to guess at the torque with a small open end wrench.

I did mine in January, and had to do it again three weeks ago. I can do it blindfolded now.

This shows the difference in old and new.