Why did my inner front brake pad wear faster?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Why did my inner front brake pad wear faster?
I wonder why my passenger side front inboard brake pad wore quicker than the outboard pad?
Is it because the pistons push that pad first?
If I can recall, the inboard pad on my dirtbikes always wore out faster because of this.
I have to put in a new set of pads tonight as I got grinding on that wheel. I felt the inside of my rotor and it is rough, must be the backing plate hitting my rotor, ouch.
I'll replace the pads tonight until I can get a new rotor and some new Hawk HPS pads.
Thanks to DeeGee for his great write up on the pad/rotor change.
Is it because the pistons push that pad first?
If I can recall, the inboard pad on my dirtbikes always wore out faster because of this.
I have to put in a new set of pads tonight as I got grinding on that wheel. I felt the inside of my rotor and it is rough, must be the backing plate hitting my rotor, ouch.
I'll replace the pads tonight until I can get a new rotor and some new Hawk HPS pads.
Thanks to DeeGee for his great write up on the pad/rotor change.
#2
Le Mans Master
You may have a piston that is stuck for one thing, Also if that rotor is scored you really should have it turned (if they can be) before you simply slap a set of new pads on.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm going to have to dig-in as to the reason why my inner rotor-face is scored, which it is.
I have been wondering why I get mega-brake dust, so much more than the drivers-side and I now hope to get some answers. I always thought it was just the brake pads, that somehow the passenger side was just making more dust, which it is.
I have been wondering why I get mega-brake dust, so much more than the drivers-side and I now hope to get some answers. I always thought it was just the brake pads, that somehow the passenger side was just making more dust, which it is.
#4
Team Owner
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#5
Le Mans Master
Has the system ever been bled?? Moisture could have caused some minor corrosion to cause the sticking piston. Pushing the piston back in for the new pad will temporarily relieve the situation,,,but a good bleeding is a must!!
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks all.
I'll admit, for the past 2 years I've had the car now, the ONLY thing I did not change out is the brake fluid. I had "rangered" it out of the MC 2 or 3 times, but never bled anything.
I'm going to see to it that I git er done.
Now, what might have corroded?, the piston in the bore?, or a brake line? My feeling is the former.
I'll admit, for the past 2 years I've had the car now, the ONLY thing I did not change out is the brake fluid. I had "rangered" it out of the MC 2 or 3 times, but never bled anything.
I'm going to see to it that I git er done.
Now, what might have corroded?, the piston in the bore?, or a brake line? My feeling is the former.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
What should I lube the pins with?, disc brake grease?
These are rubber lines with a short piece of metal-line on the ends, right?
I did have an old 77 Chevy Van with a 3 on the tree that had a clogged brake line, caused the pads to hang up on the rotor big-time. I'll have to check, bleed first, lube the pins . . .
These are rubber lines with a short piece of metal-line on the ends, right?
I did have an old 77 Chevy Van with a 3 on the tree that had a clogged brake line, caused the pads to hang up on the rotor big-time. I'll have to check, bleed first, lube the pins . . .
#10
Racer
If the slide pins are stuck, then the piston will push on the inboard pad without drawing the outboard pad onto the rotor. Piston sounds like it's working, slide pins sounds like they are not.
#12
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09, '13, '15
Check your slider pins for wear or lack of lubrication. Probably the latter.
edit: should have read all the responses before posting
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
You guys are all awesome, thank you a thousand-times!
The slide pins are what the brake pads "ride" on, right? The top one the one that I'd need to take off with a 15mm to rotate the caliper back to get the pads on/off?
The slide pins are what the brake pads "ride" on, right? The top one the one that I'd need to take off with a 15mm to rotate the caliper back to get the pads on/off?
#14
Racer
1. Rebuild yourself. Heat is your friend here. If they are frozen hard, heat the metal around the pin socket, use vice grips to pull pin once housing is hot. Discard old pins. Buy caliper hardware kit, comes with new pins, clips for pads, and caliper bolts.
2. Buy new brackets. Pretty self explanatory there.
Good luck! It's not a difficult job, but it is a very important job to get right.
#16
Tech Contributor
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It was a mystery to me. No sticking and nothing seized. In my case it was the drivers side front pads that wore most but even on both sides. The other front pad was close but not as bad. The rear pads were still good.
Last edited by DeeGee; 02-23-2011 at 02:50 PM.
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Good news!
First, thanks for all the advice/suggestions on what to look/look out for with regards to my issue.
I was anxious to get home last night and do the job. Got home around 10pm, took the wheel off then spun the rotor and could hear the groaning, looked at the rear pad and it was indeed ground down to the backing plate, eek! I think what happened and why I didn't catch it sooner is the warning-"tang" somehow snapped off so I got no warning or I would have changed the pads much sooner, my bad for not looking/inspecting more often.
The good news is that the slide-pins are sliding so no wear or replacement necessary there. That and both pistons slid right in easily, I was worried that I'd have one stuck but once I got them started it was easy to push them back in with my fingers.
Changed some of the spring-clips, slid the pads in and the caliper slid right up and back over the pads, super-simple. It is extra- easy in how all we need to do to change the pads is take off the 15mm bolt and the caliper just pivots down and out of the way.
I wish I could have popped in the Hawk-pads that dust-less as I've been wanting to for so long but with poor planning, I had to go to my local/sent the wife to the local Chevy dealer who got the stock AC Delco pads for me by 2pm yesterday so I paid the price. I could have gone to PepBoys and had their ProStop's for $50 a set.
All in all, I'm just going to change the drivers side pads either tonight or tomorrow night and be good for a while.
First, thanks for all the advice/suggestions on what to look/look out for with regards to my issue.
I was anxious to get home last night and do the job. Got home around 10pm, took the wheel off then spun the rotor and could hear the groaning, looked at the rear pad and it was indeed ground down to the backing plate, eek! I think what happened and why I didn't catch it sooner is the warning-"tang" somehow snapped off so I got no warning or I would have changed the pads much sooner, my bad for not looking/inspecting more often.
The good news is that the slide-pins are sliding so no wear or replacement necessary there. That and both pistons slid right in easily, I was worried that I'd have one stuck but once I got them started it was easy to push them back in with my fingers.
Changed some of the spring-clips, slid the pads in and the caliper slid right up and back over the pads, super-simple. It is extra- easy in how all we need to do to change the pads is take off the 15mm bolt and the caliper just pivots down and out of the way.
I wish I could have popped in the Hawk-pads that dust-less as I've been wanting to for so long but with poor planning, I had to go to my local/sent the wife to the local Chevy dealer who got the stock AC Delco pads for me by 2pm yesterday so I paid the price. I could have gone to PepBoys and had their ProStop's for $50 a set.
All in all, I'm just going to change the drivers side pads either tonight or tomorrow night and be good for a while.
#18
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09, '13, '15
Ben, thanks very much for letting us know. I dislike people that "hit and run" by asking for help and then never letting all us wanna-be troubleshooters know what they found.
#20
Le Mans Master
A word of advice,, Keep an eye on it for any signs of a leak!! Even though it pushed back in easily,,IF it was out that far and stuck,,there is a chance that there was a bit of a corrosion ring out there.pushing it back in gets the seal back on fresh smooth surface,,but there MIGHT be some slight damage to the seal. Not saying there is going to be a problem,,just take a peek back there once in a while for peace of mind!!
Last edited by itzza427; 02-25-2011 at 01:06 AM.