Kale

What about greasing the pins?

uberC5

My buddy and I picked up his Lancair Columbia 300 from the factory in Bend, Or. in late 2001. His insurance company required an instructor to be with him for delivery and for a few hours after that. Still had the steam gauge 6pack, but the big moving map was very nice. I hope that Cessna can keep that little composite wonder in the air.

Back OT, thanks DeeGee!! I'll be doing this to my 02Z this spring.

oh1vette

Does it matter the loctite used on the capiler bolts vs the bracket bolts?

I think i read red loctite for the brackets - can ya use the red on the caplipers too?

Thanks

BigTattooMan

As usual DeeGee, excellent work

Jet-Jock

I believe it is blue.

mqqn

Hi DeeGee -

Very nice how-too - thanks!

As Kale mentions, I would add that I remove the caliper mounting bolts and rubber bellows, clean and inspect them, and then coat the sliders with caliper grease and re-install.

Another thing to consider, many people will "top-off" the master cylinder reservoir, which is a no-no, because when you compress the pistons back into the calipers, the fluid level can then overflow the master (which will leak all over even if the cap is in place). Make sure the owner of the var has not topped off the master and all should be well. The fluid level should move down to the lower level as the pad material wears.

I use Loc-tite blue (removable) thread-lock when doing brake jobs.

Finally, since someone mentioned about pushing fluid back into the calipers; the fluid in the caliper pistons is no more or less dirty than the fluid anywhere else in the system, so the notion that compressing the caliper will push "dirty" fluid back into the system is incorrect. The system is a sealed system excepting only for the vented cap on the master cylinder reservoir.

thanks again for the how-to. Good to see some of the old guys still around here.

best regards -

mqqn

DeeGee

I just finished a 600 mile road trip which is the longest I've done since I fitted the pads and rotors

The new fit was flawless. Great stopping power, no squealing and almost no brake dust over the first 1000 miles.

BarryBum

Great write up, i'll be doing this soon. Good Job

chad_johnson

mqqn,

Actually.....the fluid down in the caliper IS more dirty than the rest. Why? Because water is heavier than brake fluid. The water absorbed into the hygroscopic brake fluid causes it to be heavier and sink to the lowest point...the caliper. There the moisture (the oxygen in the H2O) begins accelerating the oxidation process and voilla! The dirtiest fluid!

To clarify another post - pushing that dirty fluid back up in the line doesn't do anything to "the abs sensor." What it will do is push dirty fluid back up into the ABS control unit which contains valves that control brake pressure. They have some seriously small orifices and miniature filters inside which can be easily plugged with the gunk pushed up from your caliper.

We in the brake design/manufacturing business recommend flushing your brake fluid once / year. If you do that, you'll never have to worry about pushing anything up...it'll all be sqeaky clean in there.

Mister Peebody

great write up

mooney201

Great write up,, and nice pictures of the aircraft. I got my Private license in 1968 flying a Cessna 150. Commercial, Multi, Instrument, Instructor, all in 1970. I have not flown much since 1999. Avionics have changed a ton.
I think Corvettes and aircraft go together nicely.

SFL_driver

very nice write up. One thing to add is that when breaking the front caliper bracket bolts lose it is easier if you turn the wheel to the right for the driver side and to the left for the passenger side. This allows you to get easier access to the bolts because they are turn out towards you.

Vetteman Jack

Missed this post the first time around. Thanks for the great write-up DeeGee and to all others who have offered additional information.

pluslt

Saved this link since last year for when I would finally do mine. Did them today, thanks for the post DeeGee it was definitely helpful.

porchrd

Hi:
I just want to thank you for the time and effort you put in to this

stept by step process for rotor & pad replacement. I am now making

hard copies of your post. I have gotten the same type of C-5

replacement as you have. This will make the changeover a lot

easier for us do it your selfers for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

Thank You again for what you have done, as for myself I really do

appreciate it.

porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com

DeeGee

Glad I could help. Best of luck with the job and post up some pictures when you're done

RedRckC5

Great write up DeeGee! John thanks agdin for your help with my brakes. Learned a lot. It was also great to have SCV members helping each members criticizing the cleanliness of the bottom of the car once it was up on the lift! Lol! BTW, that is one, cool little device John used.

cqlink

Getting ready to do mine. This helps alot.

Thanks for the time and effort.

If you're driving by Fredericksburg, VA, swing by for a beer!!!

Z06TWT

Getting ready to do mine this weekend ....only question is that I have some heat checking on my front rotors, so I was thinking about turning or replacing.... Any thoughts

Jet-Jock

Replace your rotors.

Tip: Make sure you have an combination wrench the size of the caliper mounting bolts.


PS: anyone interested in an oem set for the rear i have one.