Doss13

Thanks to everyone for the advice and help. Was able to replace the bushing at the shifter. Put in a new battery and car fired right up. Drove to my garage and have ordered some parts as well as picked up a few things for fluid changes and cleaning. It sat quite a while so those are first on my list. Have some pucks on the way for deeper cleaning, replacing the rear shifter bushing and inspection underneath. Also have 4 volume set of shop manual on the way. Haven’t put my foot in it yet but the small amount of drive time is convincing that this is one cool car. Would follow any basic suggestions on what to look for or make sure I do in light of the 150k+ miles. Again Thanks for the safety advice and direction on the shifter.
Will be flushing the radiator system this weekend and replacing the air filter. From what I’ve read on the forum the fuel filter is somewhat of a hassle but am looking for one today so it can be done soon. Should I change out the transmission fluid and/or the differential. Will be popping the wheels off for a visual of the brake system and anything else that may be suggested. Am planning on power washing the underneath. Anything to be aware of or action to be taken before, during or after. Will post pictures after we get all buffed out. The interior is a little rough but no cracks in the dash and the seats, although dirty will hopefully clean up. Thanks for any suggestions! Aloha Doss

road pilot

At 150k miles ,I would change all fluids.
If nothing else to check for wear.
Good luck

gimp

Change all fluids, and blast the radiator with compressed air, back to front, to remove crud. Also, put in new plugs and wires - yours are likely (but not certainly) quite old. Inspect serp and AC belts. Inspect harmonic balancer for wobble.

Doss13

Any suggestions as to wires and plugs. We have auto zone, o’rielly’s and napa. Free shipping with amazon. Thanks Doss

gimp

GMPP wires, NGK spark plugs in the standard temperature rating (you have a stock, naturally aspirated LS1, right? if so, NGK TR5IX iridiums work well, gapped to 0.040). I recommend adding Katech boots, which prevent the wires from getting singed; they may be overkill on a stock setup, but really useful if you put in aftermarket headers. Make sure you use a proper gapping tool and a feeler gauge that does not rub on the spark plug tip; those old flat feelers are out of style, I believe, due to them occasionally damaging the plug tip. All that, including gapper and gauge, should cost you somewhere around $150 if you have none of it yet.

Spark plugs are a bit like engine oil - there are a lot of options out there that work and some people swear religiously be certain combinations. My recommendation is simple and common but not the only one.

Iridium plugs cost more and last way longer. That said, I do recommend that every 30k-ish miles, you take them out and inspect them. This accomplishes two things: one, it catches issues earlier than if you left them in for 100k miles or whatever they're rated to; and two, it prevents them freezing in the holes, as spark plugs will sometimes do if you leave them in for 100k miles. Broken plugs are a huge, huge PITA, far worse than taking em out and reinstalling them every couple years. Now, the non-iridium plugs have the benefit of forcing you to do this, and they're much cheaper to boot, but they don't last nearly as long of course.

Doss13

Thanks I’ll see what auto zone has or can order. Aloha Doss