MODS that increase MPG??
08-15-2010, 04:58 AM
#41
I wonder if it has something to do with the oxygenated gas you all get out there.
The best highway mileage I've got out of mine was 28.8.
I'm usually around 23 point something around town.
Mine's a six-speed with a CAI, cat-back, and mild tune.
The best highway mileage I've got out of mine was 28.8.
I'm usually around 23 point something around town.
Mine's a six-speed with a CAI, cat-back, and mild tune.
08-15-2010, 07:11 AM
#42
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Nope and i am not the only one. I have discussed this on the C5 AND C6 forums and there are Many others who have the same results. As i said i check it on the DIC and then against miles driven and gallons used. I use the same gas station and usually the same pump so the readings are Very accurate.
08-15-2010, 07:47 AM
#44
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
I have gotten 30 MPG on a couple of long trips with a 2000 a4 vert.
I don't creep along either.
try some experiments,
fill youu tank
reset the gauges
drive at 70 mph for 15 minutes.
note the RPM's (that'll tell you if the engine is running efficiently
Compare your mileage and RPM's to some of the claims here.
Those RPM readings will be a real clue..
I don't creep along either.
try some experiments,
fill youu tank
reset the gauges
drive at 70 mph for 15 minutes.
note the RPM's (that'll tell you if the engine is running efficiently
Compare your mileage and RPM's to some of the claims here.
Those RPM readings will be a real clue..
Engine rotation and gearing isn't going to change.
Thanks.
Mr.Bill
08-16-2010, 09:59 PM
#46
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now if your driving down the highway in 4th gear yeah your mileage is going to suck.
I drive the crap out of my car and I generally get 13-14MPG (according to the computer), 90% city driving. on the highway I get 28-30MPG. IIRC at 70MPH I am right around 1600-1650RPMs in 6th.
I am driving 500 miles tomorrow so I'll report back.
Last edited by Col. Newman; 08-16-2010 at 10:10 PM.
08-18-2010, 11:13 PM
#48
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I got like 31 during a trip to florida when I had my 98 z28. At the time the only mods were a slp lid cutted cats corsa cat back. It was an auto also. I think I was getting like around 22-25 mpg in my c5 when I got it. Its been forever since I drove it but only mods done were borla cat back. I was also driving it like I stole it since I got it when I was home on r and r. I'd say anything that has to do with exhaust will free up some gas for ya. I'd imagine a bigger intake manifold should help too? Not too sure on that one though. Apparently those under drive pulleys are supposed to help too. I'd stay away from heads and cam if you are worried about mpg.
08-19-2010, 01:33 AM
#50
Burning Brakes
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08-19-2010, 05:23 AM
#51
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Anything that makes your engine more efficient or reduces weight, rolling resistance and/or wind resistance will increase your MPG assuming you can control your right foot.
Headers reduce weight and increase engine efficiency. Heads can also do the same. Cold Air Intakes also increase efficiency.
You're thought should be "How to make the engine work less to suck air in and push it out?"
Your engine is a big air pump. If you make it so it doesn't have to suck hard to get air, or push hard to blow it out, it will not waste as much energy to do so.
Another way to look at it is like this: Gasoline has a certain amount of energy in it. Your engine takes that energy and converts it to torque and horse power. However, the energy is used to perform multiple tasks: Turn the rotating assembly, power the accessories, pull air into the motor, push exhaust gases out of the motor, turn the transmission, push the car, push the wind in front of the car, and spin the wheels.
That's a lot of energy usage when your true goal is to get as much of that potential energy to spin the wheels instead of all that other stuff. The easier you make it for the engine to do all that other stuff, the less energy it needs to use to do those things and the more it can focus that energy on spinning those wheels.
Beyond those physical changes, you can make your motor more efficient with tuning as well. For instance, I was getting about 25-26MPG on the freeway, and with a little tuning, I was getting 32-35MPG on the freeway.
Headers reduce weight and increase engine efficiency. Heads can also do the same. Cold Air Intakes also increase efficiency.
You're thought should be "How to make the engine work less to suck air in and push it out?"
Your engine is a big air pump. If you make it so it doesn't have to suck hard to get air, or push hard to blow it out, it will not waste as much energy to do so.
Another way to look at it is like this: Gasoline has a certain amount of energy in it. Your engine takes that energy and converts it to torque and horse power. However, the energy is used to perform multiple tasks: Turn the rotating assembly, power the accessories, pull air into the motor, push exhaust gases out of the motor, turn the transmission, push the car, push the wind in front of the car, and spin the wheels.
That's a lot of energy usage when your true goal is to get as much of that potential energy to spin the wheels instead of all that other stuff. The easier you make it for the engine to do all that other stuff, the less energy it needs to use to do those things and the more it can focus that energy on spinning those wheels.
Beyond those physical changes, you can make your motor more efficient with tuning as well. For instance, I was getting about 25-26MPG on the freeway, and with a little tuning, I was getting 32-35MPG on the freeway.
What MN6 came with 3.15?
08-20-2010, 08:02 AM
#59
Melting Slicks
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I'm guessing that Vetteman Jack has the answer. I have an M6 and achieve 31-32 on the highway every time and can achieve 500 miles on a tank using 91 or better octaine.