You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Corvetteforum.com today!
Last fall, my headlight motor sounded like a meat grinder - but the lights did not pop up. I installed the brass gear - I've had nothing but problems with that "fix" - the lights would wind down so tight they would not pop up. The only way to get them to work was to manually loosen them, and then the lights would work for one or two times. I'm still working on getting that fixed. I have the ACA HID lights, and yes, they are installed properly.
Now, (when the lights pop up/down), both sides would pop up, then the drivers side goes down, click the switch OFF, the passenger side goes down, then the driver's side opens. I know the lights are connected the proper way from last fall, so there is nothing connected "backwards".
It could be a number of things but a cheap and easy one to start with if you've already replaced the gears is this one:
Subject: Left Headlamp Door Does Not Stay Closed (Shim Headlamp Door Motor/Actuator and Replace Insulators)
Model Year: 2000 Chevrolet Corvette
Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment
that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.
The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.
Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the
insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown. For information on headlamp motor/actuator removal, see the Headlamp Motor/Actuator
Replacement procedure in the Lighting sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.
Part Number Description Qty Per Vehicle
11505463 Washer 3
16524060 Insulator 2
To Larry....... thanks again for posting a vid of my "winky".
To TheRadioFlyer.....Thanks for the disassembly procedure. I especially like the fact that I didn't have to remove the entire driver side Headlamp assembly to fix the 2 problems that where lurking beneath.
1) The plastic cover that is GLUED on over the nylon gear had popped off. This was a huge GM blunder when they changed from cast aluminum cover('97 to '99 models), which uses 3 screws to secure the cover, to a completely plastic housing for the motor/worm gear and nylon gear(2000 to 2004). The nylon gear will push against the cover, and it is only a matter of time before the pressure breaks the GLUE bond......and I don't care what kind of magic glue there is out there, it will not hold.
2) As per GM service bulletin, motor should be offset with washers so that the armature which raises and lowers the light makes better contact with the limiter tabs. There were enough customer complaints regarding faulty operation of the driver side Headlamp to issue this bulletin, and how to correct the problem.
I took some pics and added notes on what I did to fix both of the above design flaws, as well as how to eliminate the need for GLUE for the motor housing cover.
Job Completed. Took me about 2 hours, but I move real slooooooooooooooooooow.........otherwise I get more "honey do's" when I go into the house !!! (-; Another benefit was that I could better align the body colored headlamp cover, as the folks at GM did a poor job on this as well. This adjustment is done by maneauvering the cover directly under the body panel to adjust/equalize the top/bottom/left/right gap clearance .
The following pic is out of sequence, but I did want to show the 2 critical pivot bolts that hold the light assembly to the..........car
Below are the only tools required for this job:
Take a look at the following picture. This is what you will never have to mess with again!!The "wrap tie" method will eliminate the need for GLUE, can be done without removal from car, and will surely last a very long time !! But if you like the GLUE method, here's a pic I found in the DIY section....
That brass gear fix didn't work for my 97 Formula. I ended up with the same issues you're having. The headlight would go down and wind down too tight to reopen, and then finally the epoxy wore and the housing came apart.
The best fix, in my honest opinion, is getting another headlight motor unit. I'd try the above zip-tie trick first though. But that brass gear doesn't have enough give which is why it gets too tight. I can imagine using a resistor between the line would fix that but it'd slow the motor down a bit.
Looks like I am not the only one with this problem. I replaced my gears with the brass ones as well. Could never get the adjustment right as far as having these headlights pop up on their own. I usually wind up popping the hood and loosing the manual gear drive a bit to get both headlights to pop up. I don't seem to have more trouble with one side then the other for some reason. I also had my housing covers come off over time. I have tried some other epoxies as well. If it happens again I may try the cable tie method shown in photo graphic detail here.